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My DX4c can do that.
Nerobro fucked around with this message at 15:35 on Nov 28, 2016 |
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Nov 28, 2016 15:29
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My GT3B does it as well.
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Nov 28, 2016 15:39
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Yeah, most controllers can do that.
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Nov 28, 2016 22:21
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Thanks goons. Once I found the feature's actual name it was way easier to select from the sea of models. I was kinda looking for one that'd specifically work with a latraxx, since they never show the receiver without a cover.
evil_bunnY fucked around with this message at 11:20 on Nov 29, 2016 |
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Nov 29, 2016 11:17
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Pretty sure LaTrax runs all Traxxas electronics.
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Nov 29, 2016 15:00
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Training mode on the Teton might be slower than you're thinking too.
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Nov 29, 2016 16:50
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I had a decent session at the track today. I went through my pack five times. The only thing I broke today, was my steering servo. Because the servo saver, isn't. I bought a new servo saver, and a new servo Once that has gearsets available too. I probally did 200 laps today. I was able to turn reasonable laps towards the end. It's going to take three or four more visits like that before I have enough wheel time to confidently enter a race. Associated still hasn't gotten the parts to me yet. That's becoming a big point of frustration. They haven't gotten the shop their shipment either. ... it's almost like I need to maintain 2-3-4 cars to ensure I have sufficient cars and spare parts to "not worry" about not having cars to run.
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Dec 3, 2016 05:13
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It's kind of the nature of the beast if you don't have a baller RC shop near you.
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Dec 3, 2016 12:54
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Pretty stoked about my new SCX10II that I picked up this week. I got the kit version. I listed my old honcho without the motor and speed controller and the servo/Rx/Tx out of my RR10 in the local facebook group for crawlers. Posted it for $225, had a dude message me to meet up at a place like 2 miles from my house not even an hour after posting. He checked it out and asked if I'd take $215 which was a definite yes since he wasn't a flake and knew exactly what he was getting. Now to wait for Christmas to build my kit. Already ordered the light bar from one too many rcs so it's finding it's way down from the great white north.  I was just a click away from ordering the new Vanquish curry axles for it too since they are pretty reasonably priced. They didn't have black so I decided against it. I'm sorely tempted though.
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Dec 4, 2016 03:15
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Pretty stoked about my new SCX10II that I picked up this week. I got the kit version. I listed my old honcho without the motor and speed controller and the servo/Rx/Tx out of my RR10 in the local facebook group for crawlers. Posted it for $225, had a dude message me to meet up at a place like 2 miles from my house not even an hour after posting. He checked it out and asked if I'd take $215 which was a definite yes since he wasn't a flake and knew exactly what he was getting. Houston RC Crawlers? If so, PM me!
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Dec 4, 2016 08:09
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Geology posted:Houston RC Crawlers? If so, PM me! Negatory; 801RCC - Salt Lake/Utah based. If you follow Axial on facebook they repost a lot of stuff from our local guys. Naturally Utah has some pretty incredible places to go in generally every direction.
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Dec 4, 2016 17:10
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Negatory; 801RCC - Salt Lake/Utah based. If you follow Axial on facebook they repost a lot of stuff from our local guys. Naturally Utah has some pretty incredible places to go in generally every direction. Rub in, why dontcha! I'm very fortunate to have a small rocky path in my neighborhood park. Southeast Texas is probably the worst place to live for someone with my hobbies 
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Dec 4, 2016 19:04
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Somewhat Heroic posted:
The new SCX10II Currie axles look loving incredible. I wish I hadn't been so hung up on trying portals. Because I removed the portals. And now I have this gigantic pumpkin and a bunch of huge brackets instead of the svelte lines of the new axles.
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Dec 4, 2016 20:05
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I wish crawlers "did it for me." They seem to be a thing that you can have fun almost anywhere with. I've got two of the losi 1/24 scale crawlers, and they are nice sometimes. Given they're out of production, I should go buy up some spare sets of tires while they're still out there... The B6AC charger I have, tops out at 5amps. That means I have something like 40 minutes between runs. I haven't been timing my runs, but I give up after a pretty consistent 2800mah. I'm running a zippy 20c 5000mah pack. The motor is also only "just" warm, so i'm somewhat under geared. I am slowly building up a parts collection to have a nice M05 chassis by the new year. I want to have something to run while the VTA car is broken, or charging. It's also an excuse to pick up a 17.5 motor.
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Dec 4, 2016 20:43
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You should really just find someone with a 1/10th crawler and ask to go with them sometime. That's all it took for me. It's really satisfying in a puzzle solving way. And it's an excuse to be outdoors and get some exercise.
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Dec 4, 2016 22:27
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Ran my Tamiya Mini at a RC event yesterday. Got a lot of good setup tips during the day, and managed to cut almost a second out of my lap times
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Dec 4, 2016 23:40
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My 10 year old son is super into cars and wants a RC car for Xmas. Being a kid he's not very discerning and has been looking at plastic junk ( the sort of cars sold in supermarkets for £40- big flimsy types that even with my limited knowledge I know are junk). I've talked to him about proper hobby level RC cars but TBH i can't justify the expense of what I see suggested as a starter car. I have however stumbled across the micro scale 1/24 cars and I've dipped a toe in and bought him a Carisma GT24tr. I'm hoping this will be a ok budget starting point. I'm also hoping the performance will make up for the small size in his eyes.
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Dec 9, 2016 16:53
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Serotonin posted:My 10 year old son is super into cars and wants a RC car for Xmas. Being a kid he's not very discerning and has been looking at plastic junk ( the sort of cars sold in supermarkets for £40- big flimsy types that even with my limited knowledge I know are junk). I've talked to him about proper hobby level RC cars but TBH i can't justify the expense of what I see suggested as a starter car. I have however stumbled across the micro scale 1/24 cars and I've dipped a toe in and bought him a Carisma GT24tr. They're pretty cool and lots of fun. For a cheap entry that's still hobby-grade (and if you want a truck) - the Wheely King from HPI is pretty cool: http://www.hpiracing.com/en/kit/106173 After seeing my RC collection a buddy bought his kid one, and its pretty awesome. Great way to get into "real" RC's.
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Dec 9, 2016 18:06
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That looks cool. I will wait and see what he makes of the Carisma 1/24 ( might even get myself one for some fun ) but something like you suggested would be good to move up to.
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Dec 9, 2016 18:17
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Serotonin posted:That looks cool. I will wait and see what he makes of the Carisma 1/24 ( might even get myself one for some fun ) but something like you suggested would be good to move up to. Yeah, we're out with lots of rocks and stuff, and it does well. The kids beaten the poo poo out of it and it looks bad, but still runs 100%. Different type of vehicle, obviously, but a lot of fun and a good starter.
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Dec 9, 2016 19:31
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kuffs posted:Well I've got some news for you. In the interim I did a bit of research and found this guy that makes kits http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thunder-tig...5wAAOxyJX1TDZNs for center-diff MGTs. You need to source your own center diff and center driveshafts, but that's it right there. It's been a while, so you may or may not see this. I actually bought that exact mount a week ago to re-convert it to a more reliable setup. Hopefully. I was running it through the stock tranny. Had a brand new one I put in a while ago. Ran it out in the street the first day it snowed on 6S. Within 5 minutes it had melted the bevel gears that connect the spur to the tranny. I spent an hour replacing the parts, lubed and shimmed everything, and took it back out. Within 5 minutes, just running up and down the snowy street on 4S, it knocked a tooth off the output shaft gear. I honestly wasn't that surprised, since the stock engine was something like 1.5 horsepower with a clutch and no torque. The BL setup is ~5hp with instant torque and really no mechanism to allow slip. Well, there's the stock slipper, but if you don't lock it down, you'll melt it with that kind of power trying to move 12.5 pounds. Soooooo, to circle back, I have the center mount coming from Greece. To complete everything, I ordered an RC8 center diff, built it, and filled it with Silly Putty to make it solid. I had a Kyosho universal joint I had misordered for another project, so that became the front driveshaft. After measuring and test-fitting, it looked like a 125mm or so dogbone would be perfect for the rear, so I have a couple of those coming. Once the mount and dogbone get her, I should literally be able to bolt everything together and be done. The stock tranny will be thrown in the poo poo can, and all of those gears and slop and weight will be gone. I'm not expecting to be able to bash it all day on 6S, but at least the primary drive will now hopefully be stronger than the next weakest link. I'm glad you were able to get yours running again, but I will forever be sold on brushless setups. It would be awesome to see what an LRP .32 or something would do in this truck, but it's wheelbase-limited(flips over or wheelies at any speed when you nail it) at high power levels and there's no easy way to mount a nitro engine in it with a center diff setup like I'll have now. I honestly just want to have fun with it at moderate power levels and not have to buy $70 transmissions every few runs. It would be tempting to gear it up and strap a GPS on it, but absolutely pointless. Something would break or a tire would let go and that would be then end of it. I should have bought this mount and figured it out from the start, but I was in a hurry and was not banking on how much torque and speed the BL setup would have. I also didn't realize it would be enough power to break everything, even without the extreme shock loads from landing crazy jumps and outright abuse. It's like when a guy with a 1500WHP TT Viper shatters 4th gear every time they make a speed run with traction, the parts just can't take it. I know most of you will tell me to just cap the power using the tuning in the ESC, but unfortunately the Monster 2 ESC does not seem able to cap maximum power. It will ramp power up over a second or two, but once that time has passed, it's full-bore. No setting it at say 70% all the way through the curve or anything like that. I did just grab the Castle Link adapter, so maybe I can set up a capped curve in there? I'll have to take a look at it when I get things back together.
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Dec 21, 2016 22:50
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You could cap it at the transmitter too.
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Dec 21, 2016 22:58
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Nerobro posted:I had a decent session at the track today. I went through my pack five times. That's how it goes usually, break something and wait for replacements. I If I was racing I could never keep 2 identical cars or enough spare parts on hand, but I have 6 or so different cars/trucks to choose from, so when one breaks, I order parts and pull something else out to play with. They're all kind of in a rotation. The 1 thing I have learned, is that it's better spend the money on 1 good servo when you have to, rather than try to cheap out like I did and buy whatever Chinese $20 stuff is available on e-bay. It may look good and cheap, and it may work for a while, but you never know when or how it's going to break. I finally broke down and dropped the cash on a fantastic servo, and I've never looked back. It's a monster, and I know that any hit it takes to ruin that thing would probably destroy the whole truck/car along with the servo.
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Dec 21, 2016 22:59
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evil_bunnY posted:You could cap it at the transmitter too. Yup. Calibrate the ESC, then use end point adjustment on the throttle channel to reduce the maximum travel. I have this set up in one profile for my SC10 to keep speeds very low. If you ever need to recalibrate the ESC, you'll need to max the EPA out again before you do so.
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Dec 21, 2016 23:04
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evil_bunnY posted:You could cap it at the transmitter too. You're right, I didn't even think of that. Thanks! When I was playing with the power settings in the ESC, it was very annoying to drive the car. Every time I got back into the throttle, it would start in the basement and ramp up, so there would be a delay, power would build slowly, and then come in really fast on the top end and make the car uncontrollable(unexpected wheelie/slide). You could never really tell what you were going to get, and more often than not I'd have to squeeze and then let off the throttle once the power came in, then get back into it and repeat. I'll see what I can set up at the transmitter to give it just enough power to barely pull the front wheels up at full throttle. Doing wheelies is fun, but it's hard on parts, and once the front wheels come up, the car can't accelerate any faster than it already is.
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Dec 21, 2016 23:08
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The Carisma GT24 was a great success until my son drove it into a puddle and now it seems to be dead. Well the steering still works but there's no power to the wheels which I'm assuming means the ESC is hosed. I'm trying to dry it out and keeping my fingers crossed as everywhere is out of stock of ESCs and are back ordered till February. Happy Christmas
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Dec 25, 2016 16:37
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Nothing like being the bad influence. Thursday, I had my friend go to the RC Track with me.. and he bought a TC7.1, body, tires, wheels, etc... because my TC4 was so entertaining. That was a fun build. The shocks are really very slick on that setup. Today I ordered two Mid-Grade Tamiya DT-02 cars. Bearings, oil shocks, etc... to bash around the beaches in Chicago. This.. should be good.
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Dec 27, 2016 22:15
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Haven't touched anything RC for years, but reading this thread has made me want to dig out my old cars to have a go with it again  Dabbled in some racing long ago in various classes, depending what I had at the time, but never anything more than open class days at a track which was local to me at the time.So, since I've not touched any cars for about 15 years or so, some questions: - I've got 3 old cars (Losi XX, Associated RC10L2 pro-10, RCLab 7even 6.0 4wd touring car) which I'm going to try out to see if it's still fun, but no real idea if all the parts are still available in case I break anything. Especially RCLab which seem to have completely vanished! (I bought stuff from ModelTech.co.uk for it in the past but they have since disappeared) - Or should I just sell them and start from scratch with something easier to get parts for? - Are there recommended "good value" electrics for 1/10th on and off-road? HobbyKing does lots of stuff which looks bargainous, e.g. Tunigy LiPos, own-brand high speed servos, bargain ESC and motor combos. Most of my electrics and radio gear are really old now, and I only have one car set anyway. - I quite fancy a go with drifting so do I just need drift tyres for the RCLab touring car or anything more than that? - I have a couple of relatively new NiMh batteries that I'll use until I decide if in going to buy anything major new. I assume LiPos are still the go-to type rather than LiFe? (I have a CoreRC charger I got a year or two ago which can cope with anything it seems I'm in the UK so UK or EU online shops greatly preferred for parts or upgrades. (Have skipped about 100 pages on the middle of the thread, as it would probably take me about 2 years to catch up otherwise, so apologies if lots of this has been asked and answered already! Fake edit: Tempted by the 3racing Sakura D4 for drifting, as that looks shiny and pretty cheap for the rolling chassis 
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Dec 29, 2016 19:22
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I've got a couple of Losi XX buggies as well and I've been told that parts are hard enough to come by for them that I'd be better off selling them and buying a new buggy if I wanted to race that class. Either that, or sell them and use it to fund electrics for my dad's original gold-tub RC10 that I have. Thanks to the Associated re-release, parts for that are actually easier to get than the XX 
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Dec 29, 2016 21:13
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So I'm like 90% certain I'm getting a CC01 and a LiPo for Hanukkah. What do you guys like for chargers that won't break the bank or burn down my house?
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Dec 29, 2016 21:40
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:So I'm like 90% certain I'm getting a CC01 and a LiPo for Hanukkah. What do you guys like for chargers that won't break the bank or burn down my house? I just started using LiPo batteries last year when I got back into R/C, and I went with the Duratrax Onyx charger that came as a bundle with my vehicle from Tower Hobbies. I have no idea how that ranks among other brands, but it's easy to use once you figure out all of the different modes and options, and it's worked great so far. You can probably find a charger for around $50, maybe less. From what I've read you will probably want to get one that has balancing capabilities to extend the life of your battery, and pick up a LiPo bag as well.
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Dec 29, 2016 22:23
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B4AC chargers are $30-40. They do all the tricks, and will charge your battery in about an hour.
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Dec 29, 2016 22:29
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This thread got me to watching RC racing on youtube. Stuff is pretty cool! If only there was a way to mass start bike races
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Dec 30, 2016 00:41
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:So I'm like 90% certain I'm getting a CC01 and a LiPo for Hanukkah. What do you guys like for chargers that won't break the bank or burn down my house? Most chargers are pretty good these days. If you want cheap and good, check out Hobby King's stuff.
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Dec 30, 2016 08:29
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Make that 100% certain.  As I'm sure you all know, Tamiya ships like half a dozen different versions of the CC01, but I think the Bronco is the coolest of the bunch. I started putting it together last night but hosed up one of the screws something fierce and had to postpone the rest until today when I could go buy another screw. Luckily Ace had them for about a quarter a piece. Once that was done, I spent a couple more hours on it and here it is:  This is straight out of the box with the exception of a ball bearing kit. I was lucky enough to have my 'Santa' pick that up as well. I got a battery and a radio set as well, but still need the ESC, servo, and a charger. I'll pull the wheels off again so I can paint the centers and glue the tires. I've already got a list of parts to pick up for this thing, too. This is how it starts, isn't it?
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Jan 8, 2017 22:37
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Yes, yes it is.  I haven't even touched my RC gear since November, but if a crawler showed up in my lap I'd be pretty drat happy.
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Jan 9, 2017 09:06
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Good news on our little 1/24 th - got a replacement and we are both having a lot of fun with it. I'm jonesing hard for a 1/10th now though.
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Jan 9, 2017 09:12
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I did a run with my Tamiya Mini last Sunday, first run for the year with a new shell and some suspension changes. It was a practice day, so spent most of it testing out different tyre compounds on the car to get a good combination, as with the Mini you need to run hard front tyres and soft rears. All is well, the only issue is front tyre wear.
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Jan 9, 2017 23:38
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Make that 100% certain. If you are just looking for scale speed stuff search your local classifieds for stuff people have pulled out of RTR's. I sold my Axial stuff that I ripped out of my Bomber with out even turning on once for cheap. Motor/ESC for like $20, and the radio/rx/servo I included with the sale of my SCX10 Honcho - which I would have just sold separately for cheap anyways (prob 20-30 bucks). The Axial AE-5 speed controller is pretty smooth and has drag brake and is 3S compatible and waterproof. Brushed motors are cheap and who cares if they get wet. On 3S lipo you can get decent wheel speed out of them too. Welcome to the fun!
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Jan 9, 2017 23:42
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All my electrical goodies came yesterday so I got the ESC and servo installed and got the charger ready to go. Home sick today so I figured I'd throw a charge on the battery while I could keep an eye on it. Apparently LiPos like to burn down houses if you leave them alone... Charged in about an hour so I obviously had to go harass my dog in the back yard. I'm hooked. Trimmed the body but don't have any paint yet. I've got some Ace coupons and my local store carries Tamiya paint. Not sure if they have the PS cans, but I'll go take a look and see. I'm thinking PS14 copper for the main body with a white roof.  Now I just need to pick up another servo and ESC to resurrect this guy: 
Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Jan 14, 2017 |
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Jan 13, 2017 20:49
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