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ilkhan posted:1: Many of the wheel options are tied to specific packages. Cali Special, EB performance pack, GT Track pack, etc. The upgrade wheels are almost all 19" or 20"s, which means more expensive tires; and wider, which means better traction. Спасибо!
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# ? Dec 17, 2016 06:47 |
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# ? Mar 28, 2024 20:30 |
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LongSack posted:Спасибо! You know EB/GT and base/premium yet? It makes a big difference on what some of the options are.
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# ? Dec 17, 2016 06:52 |
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LongSack posted:Nah, I'm either trading in the pickup or selling it to my goddaughter. I really don't want to keep 2 complete sets of tires If you only have one vehicle and you get cold weather, you'll want all-seasons. Sorry for the bad news. EDIT: In other tire-related news, apparently there were accidents all over the city today because people here are complete retards, and I drove all over with winters on the mustang and I had no problems. If you can't handle slippery roads with proper tires, an LSD and electronic nannies, you should just give up your license because you're obviously poo poo at driving. PT6A fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Dec 17, 2016 |
# ? Dec 17, 2016 07:14 |
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I have 3.15s on my GT auto which is my daily driver. To and from work I spend about 1 hour in the car. My mpg is 23, which I think is ok for a 5 liter engine. The sweetspot speed seems to be 80 mph at that ratio, so unless you get 4.10s I don't think you'll feel much of a negative impact.
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# ? Dec 17, 2016 15:27 |
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Question: what's the failure mode for ignition switches/cylinders? I've got a '00 GT and the last two times someone else has driven my car, they've taken the key out without it being in the "lock/release" position. Once in ACC, the last in RUN. Aside from never letting anyone drive my car - should I be replacing the switch / cylinder? Car still starts fine for me, and the key isn't loose or anything - I didn't yank on it as I expect they had to, but it doesn't fall out while driving / when lightly pulled.
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# ? Dec 17, 2016 21:04 |
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With my pickup which uses the same cylinder, i could pull the key out after starting it. it's just something that wears out. without the key in, the cylinder won't move out of "off", but the key could be pulled out in any position. It never fell out, but it could easily be pulled out. If you have a transponder key, it's going to have to be programmed and everything. There are some kits on rock-auto that come with tumblers so you don't have to re-key your doors at the same time. It's not really that big of a deal if people aren't inattentive enough to kill the battery leaving the ignition on. If your car doesn't have a transponder key, a thief is going to bust the cylinder out with a pair of vice grips anyways, so it's not any less secure. It's just a "ford thing" that you ignore because you drive a ford.
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# ? Dec 17, 2016 22:19 |
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ilkhan posted:De nada Yes, I'm definitely going for the GT. Been playing with the Ford "built-it" web thingy for a couple months and have a pretty solid idea of what I want, just had some lingering questions about the rear ratio and tires. Looks like all-season it is then
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# ? Dec 17, 2016 23:53 |
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It's not like good all-seasons are awful feeling. I run all-seasons and winters on mine because our winter weather is poo poo and our weather during the rest of the year is fickle at best, and the all-seasons are a blessed relief after getting used to the winters.
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# ? Dec 18, 2016 00:24 |
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Who knows what the exact options will be on the 2018 models, but I have noticed the 20" wheels now come with all seasons standard with summer tires an extra option. This would get you all seasons but a bit meatier tires that may make up for that. Of course, this would still mean more expensive tires when it's time for replacement.
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# ? Dec 18, 2016 00:42 |
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Speaking of the 2018s, does anyone know approximately when the cut-over to them is? Like how late into the year can I still order a 2017, or how early can I order a 2018?
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# ? Dec 18, 2016 01:12 |
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Just a note on the winter/summer or all-season debate: If you get a second set of wheels for your winter tires you can usually recoup a decent amount of the price after you sell the car. When I had my STI in Colorado I bought a set of el cheapo wheels in black, the whole thing ran me $1100 shipped to my house. Sold them with the car for $500. Tires can transform a car - don't settle for all-seasons. If you're picking up the car in the Spring, get the summers and save a bit for a new wheel/tire set in the fall. That first drive on summer tires after running winters for 5+ months is phenomenal.
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# ? Dec 18, 2016 03:14 |
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And it's not like cheapo wheels are all that expensive. Non track pack cars can use most 5 bolt mustang wheels, and you've got plenty of OEM wheels to choose from. Snows perform better with thinner tires, even.
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# ? Dec 18, 2016 05:38 |
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Pr0kjayhawk posted:Just a note on the winter/summer or all-season debate: If you get a second set of wheels for your winter tires you can usually recoup a decent amount of the price after you sell the car. When I had my STI in Colorado I bought a set of el cheapo wheels in black, the whole thing ran me $1100 shipped to my house. Sold them with the car for $500. Except summers are ridiculously bad when it's cold and even the least bit snowy. You have to either be comfortable will simply not being able to use your car if the weather is marginal, or you have to run winters for so long that you'll wear them out really fast driving in decent weather on dry pavement. EDIT: Related to winter driving discussion, I drove through a reasonably bad snowstorm that caused a whole shitton of accidents on Friday (it was only 5-10cm worth, but they don't plow worth a gently caress here until the snow stops falling) and it was easy as pie with winter tires, except for the mounds of snow in between lanes on the highway.... changing lanes was a bit of an adventure. PT6A fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Dec 26, 2016 |
# ? Dec 19, 2016 00:39 |
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Drive your car Finally got a good test with the winter tires. About 4 inches of snow and the roads were garbage around my house. Car did wonderfully, snow mode is also a blessing.
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# ? Dec 29, 2016 21:38 |
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I know I've mentioned this before but man those red trimlines really do look fantastic.
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# ? Dec 29, 2016 21:43 |
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Buhbuhj posted:Drive your car What tires?
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# ? Dec 29, 2016 22:10 |
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They are Continental Wintercontact SI's. I was able to get a very good deal on them from a mechanic friend. I believe they are like a mid-range tire? On dry roads they are very quiet but you still can't feel anything through them. Extremely good grip in the snow, though.
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# ? Dec 29, 2016 22:13 |
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Hey winter tire buddy! My backseat looked like this for an hour while I cleaned up the garage for some space. Also how did you do that trim? I've been wanting to do something like it for my DIB mustang.
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# ? Dec 29, 2016 23:04 |
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Vinyl dye, tape, and patience?
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# ? Dec 29, 2016 23:23 |
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I recently had my snow tires put on too. They somehow managed to get all four 20s in the car afterwards, I struggled to get the much narrower 18s (235 vs 265) in there...
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# ? Dec 29, 2016 23:24 |
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Crazy Pigeon posted:Also how did you do that trim? I've been wanting to do something like it for my DIB mustang. It's literally just 3m red pinstriping tape. You can pick it up at autozone or amazon or anywhere. All the black trim has a flat(ish) spot on it that you can follow. I did my whole car by eye because you can just keep it even with the bottom line.
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# ? Dec 30, 2016 00:41 |
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Buhbuhj posted:They are Continental Wintercontact SI's. I was able to get a very good deal on them from a mechanic friend. I believe they are like a mid-range tire? On dry roads they are very quiet but you still can't feel anything through them. Extremely good grip in the snow, though. Seconding this, they're what I got as well and while I haven't had the pleasure of driving them in the snow yet I'm really pleased with them.
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# ? Dec 31, 2016 06:45 |
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Buhbuhj posted:It's literally just 3m red pinstriping tape. You can pick it up at autozone or amazon or anywhere. All the black trim has a flat(ish) spot on it that you can follow. I did my whole car by eye because you can just keep it even with the bottom line.
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# ? Dec 31, 2016 18:16 |
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So the '16 Ecoboost is the first new car I've ever had, and I'm wanting to make sure I'm following all of the rules for warranty/etc. The maintenance schedule appears to say that 10K is the first scheduled service, otherwise don't change oil until the oil life sensor starts nagging. Is that really all that's needed to maintain the warranty, and/or is it a good idea to be more proactive with oil changes? It's my first car with a turbo as well so I'm just being paranoid as I want to make sure this beast lasts.
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# ? Jan 3, 2017 00:54 |
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Well, you certainly wouldn't be hurting the car by giving it fresh oil more often. That said, modern oils and filters are fantastically better than they used to be, and engine designs and tolerances mean the oil degrades slower. I know several posters have sent samples to Blackstone when changing after like 15k (when the light came on), and the results said "you probably could have gone another few thousand on this". I don't know if the verdict is in yet on how robust the ecoboost motors are in the long term, but you're probably fine following the book. On the other hand, more frequent changes won't hurt anything but your wallet.
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# ? Jan 3, 2017 00:58 |
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Just remember your Turbos will probably shoot straight through the top of the hood at 120k miles so trade it in now and get a GT before its too late.
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# ? Jan 3, 2017 01:33 |
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Digital_Jesus posted:Just remember your Turbos will probably shoot straight through the top of the hood at 120k miles so trade it in now and get a GT before its too late. Never. boooooooooostang power
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# ? Jan 3, 2017 02:06 |
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At the very least go have your Ford dealer slap the $700 upgrade on it and report back.
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# ? Jan 3, 2017 02:13 |
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Digital_Jesus posted:At the very least go have your Ford dealer slap the $700 upgrade on it and report back. That's definitely gonna happen.
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# ? Jan 3, 2017 02:15 |
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Digital_Jesus posted:At the very least get your car tuned by anyone but Ford and slap $3000 worth of upgrades on your car. Fixed that. edit: Procal tune is apparently about the same as the Cobb Stage 1 which is meh. They also give you a gt350 intake for some reason? It's like poorly retrofitted and a lot of people are complaining about it. GabbiLB fucked around with this message at 14:55 on Jan 3, 2017 |
# ? Jan 3, 2017 14:10 |
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I picked up a Roush axle back and X pipe for my S550 GT but won't be around a lift I can use until next week. Will report back with rumbly car noises and an 800 HP gain.
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# ? Jan 3, 2017 15:25 |
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Yeah, I'm just wary about going too far off the reservation while the car's under warranty at least. There's a ton of different tunes out there and I see threads not infrequently on m6g about someone blowing an engine because they're running a "summer" tune during cold weather and poo poo like that. I figured going milder with a "big name" tune would be safer. Talk me out of that so I can get stupid.
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# ? Jan 3, 2017 16:18 |
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Soooooo... Hybrid Mustang in 2020...
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# ? Jan 3, 2017 17:51 |
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H2SO4 posted:Yeah, I'm just wary about going too far off the reservation while the car's under warranty at least. There's a ton of different tunes out there and I see threads not infrequently on m6g about someone blowing an engine because they're running a "summer" tune during cold weather and poo poo like that. I figured going milder with a "big name" tune would be safer. I've had my Ecostang tuned since about 6-700 miles on it. First by Unleashed tuning with the SCT (decent tune, garbage device he made me run separate winter and summer tunes) and now at 20,000 I just switched to Tune+ with a Cobb Accessport. I have a Levels intercooler on the way and will be running an E30 tune. I have had zero issues with my car being tuned. The golden rule is to avoid LSPI and you will be fine so no flooring it in 5th or 6th when you are at 1300 rpms or some dumb poo poo like that. I would stay away from livernois and Lund. 90% of the failures I see are on the early Spain built engines with those tuners. Canned tunes I also would shy away from, with protunes you send datalogs back and forth to get everything dialed in just right. With my current mods I can embarrass Challengers and most Camaro SS's (up to 2016 mind you) from a dig. With the rest of the junk I have on the way I should be close to 360+ whp on E30 so go get tuned!!! Changes the car completely!
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# ? Jan 3, 2017 19:28 |
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Right on. What are you going to do about the active shutters? I've heard just yanking them gives you a CEL, and some people have mentioned they carved theirs up and just leave the motor connected to the harness and tucked out of the way so it thinks they're still there. With the intercooler are you looking at new pipes and BOV as well? A lot of the kits I've seen either replace the stock valve and/or move it to the cold side, which makes me wonder if/how the car will get angry because the stock BPV is electronically controlled.
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# ? Jan 3, 2017 19:50 |
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If you are really paranoid about warranty please wait until its up before you touch anything at all. Apparently Ford can deny service even if you are just running a catch can(which you should absolutely get). I'm actually going to rip out my shutters this spring when I replace my grills with the RTR ones. My tuner already has them disabled so there won't be any CEL to worry about. If you aren't looking for big power there is nothing wrong with the stock location replacement intercoolers. CPE, MAP, and Mishimoto all make stock replacement units that are fine up to like 500hp. If you live in a reaaaally hot climate I would probably go with a front mount though. Also water/meth injection is another route if you need to deal with heat. I'm looking into doing some sort of passive system on my car that won't require a tune. Something just to keep the charge temps low and maybe a little meth to keep the octane up. Also you should absolutely replace the stock bpv. You can either get an aftermarket bpv from someone like Boomba or Turbosmart, or you can just slap a HKS or Tial BOV on there. I'm running a HKS unit with CPE pipes. The difference going to a mechanical unit is noticable. Mainly because it holds boost better and it won't keep opening at the strangest times. The stock electronic unit was really not good with any sort of tune.
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# ? Jan 3, 2017 21:11 |
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Wistful of Dollars posted:Soooooo... Hybrid Mustang in 2020... The electric motors should power the front wheels independently, to create a hybrid V8 AWD Mustang. If it's just a normal-rear end hybrid powertrain, I would not care for that at all.
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# ? Jan 4, 2017 01:43 |
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PT6A posted:The electric motors should power the front wheels independently, to create a hybrid V8 AWD Mustang. If it's just a normal-rear end hybrid powertrain, I would not care for that at all. How about all 4?
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# ? Jan 4, 2017 03:11 |
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The front axle hubs on the gt350 are already splined so????
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# ? Jan 4, 2017 03:18 |
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# ? Mar 28, 2024 20:30 |
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Wistful of Dollars posted:Soooooo... Hybrid Mustang in 2020... Hopefully it comes with the EBV6 too. For V8 torks, of course.
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# ? Jan 4, 2017 03:26 |