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I have attached a Polaroid Cube to an RC4WD Trail Finder 2 using something similar to a GoPro The Jam mount. attempt 1 (made it on the 4th try) attempt 2 (snapped a drive shaft) I have since learned that stock RC4WD drive shafts are weak and the U-joint sleeves slip, allowing them to break even more easily. Also, stock tires are too small for what I want to do. Hopefully new parts will arrive next week and I'll be able to get hung up on less stuff.
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Jan 15, 2017 06:04
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legooolas posted:Haven't touched anything RC for years, but reading this thread has made me want to dig out my old cars to have a go with it again I did the exact same thing about 5 years ago. Dug all of my old stuff out(RC10T, TC-4 with OS .18, and an RC10L), and got the first 2 going again. The TC-3 is pretty janky, but it hauls and I don't really have problems with it. The RC10T on the other hand is great, especially after I installed a HobbyKing 100A ESC and 5.5T brushless motor setup. It is absolutely insanely quick and fast on 3S LiPo, but when something breaks, because it's vintage, I have to pretty much buy 15 year old brittle parts from e-bay. I just ordered a transmission idler gear, because the NOS replacement I had in there knocked 3 teeth off. This was at 60% power too. The old stuff just doesn't seem to stand up to modern power, and we really shouldn't expect it to. If you keep the power moderate and you're really careful about tearing it up, the old stuff can be really fun and cool to play with. I will never ever go back to brushed motors and old-school batteries though, the modern stuff is just light-years ahead in run-time, ease of use, and power. Because I mainly run in the school lot and ball field across the street, I stepped up to 1/8 scale 4WD stuff so I can use the whole park and not be relegated to a parking lot or doing continuous donuts on the ball field. 2WD is fun, but even my 2WD RC-10T can barely go through mowed grass, because it's so light and the chassis is low to the ground. I thought long and hard about the spaces I had to run my cars in before I purchased anything. Ended up with an Associated MGT 8.0 converted to brushless, a Losi 8ight 2.0 nitro converted to brushless, and a Kyosho Inferno GT-2 for the parking lots, also brushless. The big stuff is definitely way more fun, at least for me. I like being able to fly across parks at a good clip and do wheelies and all that good stuff on the grass.
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Jan 16, 2017 00:35
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The plan was to go to the local motocross track today with some friends, but apparently some people who bought brand new houses next to said motocross track complained about the noise and are in the process of having it turned into a kale farm. I'm not even kidding. Still found some fun on a flat stretch of dirt (mud) road.      
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Jan 16, 2017 02:04
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Meathole posted:I did the exact same thing about 5 years ago. Dug all of my old stuff out(RC10T, TC-4 with OS .18, and an RC10L), and got the first 2 going again. The TC-3 is pretty janky, but it hauls and I don't really have problems with it. The RC10T on the other hand is great, especially after I installed a HobbyKing 100A ESC and 5.5T brushless motor setup. It is absolutely insanely quick and fast on 3S LiPo, but when something breaks, because it's vintage, I have to pretty much buy 15 year old brittle parts from e-bay. I just ordered a transmission idler gear, because the NOS replacement I had in there knocked 3 teeth off. This was at 60% power too. The old stuff just doesn't seem to stand up to modern power, and we really shouldn't expect it to. If you keep the power moderate and you're really careful about tearing it up, the old stuff can be really fun and cool to play with. I will never ever go back to brushed motors and old-school batteries though, the modern stuff is just light-years ahead in run-time, ease of use, and power. How many parts are unique to the 10T versus the OG RC10? Aren't there some re-released parts now?
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Jan 16, 2017 02:21
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Spent a lot of time masking off the Bronco to shoot some paint. Struck out at Ace (they carry the TS sprays but not the PS) but swung by a HobbyTown at dinner and grabbed some. I've got three coats of black done for the fender flares so I'll peel off the first layer of masking in about 20 minutes. In between coats on that, I masked and painted the wheel centers with the airbrush. XF-16 flat aluminum. Nothing fancy, but I think they look a lot better than all chrome.  Nervous as hell about the body. Hope my masking job didn't suck. Edit: No sense in double-posting. There's a couple spots of overspray where the black snuck though, but gently caress it. For babby's first body, I'll call it good enough. I really like the color. Looks a bit weird in the picture but it turned out really nice. That whole 'painting the inside' thing is brilliant. I'd kill for a finish this nice on a regular model.  Double Edit: Stickers have been stuck and lights have been lit. Pretty cool it comes with the light kit. They've got an add-on kit that will do brake lights and backup lights and blinkers and all kinds of crazy poo poo. I may pick that up, but it's kinda spendy and it's pretty low on the list. Need to trim the posts and I'll be ready to rock.   
Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Jan 17, 2017 |
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Jan 16, 2017 02:26
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Weather is awesome today so I went out to play a little bit. Took it over to the local nature preserve and screwed around for a while until the battery was getting low and the driveshaft wasn't staying in (didn't bring an allen for the set screws). Truck's not nearly as fun running FWD with an open diff. Speaking of open front diff, I need to do something about that. I don't want to lock it completely and tank my (already not great) turning radius, but having it open definitely makes it less capable. I've seen a guy stick some springs in behind the spider gears to keep them pushed towards the center as kind of a quasi-LSD but I'll be damned if I can find any springs that will fit in the slots behind the spiders. Anyway, learned a lot about the truck and what it needs and how to drive it properly. Full throttle full lock steering on gravel paths=fun donuts. Full throttle full lock steering on grass=not so fun vertical donuts. Need some skidplates to help keep the driveshaft area from getting hung up. Junfac makes some plates and some side bars that I think would be pretty helpful. Needs some new tires desperately as these things are pretty lame when things get slippery. Tiny piles of snow made the truck their bitch unless I got a pretty serious run at them. Either way, had a ton of fun bombing through everything. I didn't take a ton of pictures since I was on driving duty too, but got a few when it felt picturesque enough. I'll have to go out somewhere at dusk so I can get some shots with the lights on. Found a culvert with some big rocks:  A bit too big... better go around.  Some standing water to play in! Looks a bit deep, though.  Yeah, a bit deep. Down past the the nut in the front and the back tires were barely in the water.  This was a great little rocky water crossing. Couple pointy ones in there wanting to hang me up but I got a pretty good line through it and didn't have to rescue myself.  I should buy a boat...  Overall, a very fun time out.  Had some nice compliments on the truck, too. One person even asked if it was a Bronco from about 20 yards way or so. Well done to Tamiya for that one, I suppose. There's another preserve around here with some good dirt walking paths that I want to go to. Can't wait to go out again.
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Jan 21, 2017 21:49
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So eventually I want to build a trailer for the Bronco. Need a hitch first. Drew up the plans a few days ago and figured out what I'd need for hardware. Aluminum + hacksaw + drill + stainless hardware =   Knocked the corners off and drug a file over everything and hit it with some paint.   Like a glove.  Hole in the receiver is a 1/4" circle. Once I get around to building/buying an actual hitch and ball, I'll file it out to a square.
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Jan 30, 2017 00:39
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I kinda feel like I'm hijacking this thread, but I'm having too much fun with this truck to shut up about it. Still had most of the aluminum sheet left over from the hitch so I figured I'd bang out a front skidplate. Pretty simple. Trim up an index card as a template and transfer it over to the aluminum. Bend it, clean it up some, screw it to the mounts for the big dumb bumper.   May try to cobble another one up for the rear diff.
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Feb 4, 2017 22:10
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Keep talking about the amazing truck. I enjoy reading each of the posts!
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Feb 4, 2017 22:20
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Well in that case  Bought some stuff for the wife for Valentine's from Amazon and needed a little bit more to hit the free shipping*. So of course I got more dumb poo poo. Nerf bars!    Fit's great and they should help to provide a little protection on the sides. Plus they look cool. Might end up looking a little goofy if I use the long wheelbase on a different body but whatever. *I ended up starting a Prime trial so shipping was free 2nd day anyway... OH WELL.
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Feb 5, 2017 19:16
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Hah, I appreciate the work that is going into your truck. It's looking great. Don't forget that Prime subscription comes with free access to their video and music streaming services and their book service. If you watch streams on Twitch.tv, it also gives you access to premium membership and a refreshing, 1-month sub that you can give to any streamer. There's other stuff, too, but Prime is good for more than just free 2-day shipping now. 
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Feb 5, 2017 20:29
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Kibner posted:Hah, I appreciate the work that is going into your truck. It's looking great. But Core Gamers love free 2-day shipping! For real though, even if you don't generally watch twitch.tv, ask friends if they do, as it's literally free money for you to give to a streamer, just because you have Prime.
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Feb 5, 2017 20:49
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Super Swampers = greater ground clearance. Tested a rear-facing mount and promptly discovered I needed to use something other than a clamp because the adjuster knob negated the front ground clearance. See for yourself!
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Feb 12, 2017 06:34
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So finding chassis setups is a pain. I'd love a recomended carpet setup for the M05. I've got the super mini CVA shocks, with their stock silver springs. I have the factory wheels and rubber from the Miata M05 kit. And I'm running a full size 2s LiPo in the car. On other Tamiya news. My DT-02 is a ton of fun. I should post pictures... shouldn't I?
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Feb 21, 2017 20:39
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Do you like the M05? I've been kinda wanting to pick up an M-chassis now. I really like the looks of the Alfa on the M06. Have you played with the MF-01X at all?
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Feb 21, 2017 20:55
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I do like it. It's my go-to chassis for bashing around. Partly becuase it's cheap, and partly because "break and upgrade" is something that is reasonable on the Mini's. My current setup is: M05 ver 2 chassis (so it fits a square lipo) Yeah racing 2 deg rear uprights (broke the stockers) Yeah racing driveshafts, cups, and axles. (less weight, came in a $50 kit, and are blue!) Yeah racing aluminum steering setup. Tamiya Adjustable suspension links. Tamiya CVA Super Mini shocks. (I tried the mini shocks, and found that they bottomed out long before the chassis did...) Setup on the factory fluid, and factory springs. Tamiya TBLE02 ESC Speed Passion 17.5 brushless 20 tooth pinion Turnigy D-spec shorty servo Blue RC Spektrum Reciever Zippy 5000mah 2s hardcase battery pack. Bearings throughout. There's also a butt-ton of bodys out for it. right now, i'm mostly running the factory Miata shell. But last night I painted up a "mini touring car" body. they say it's an acura... But it really is like a 3/4 scale protoform Mazda 6 shell. I need to get some paint pens to fill in the details so it doesn't look quite so black hole-ish.
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Feb 21, 2017 22:17
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Nerobro posted:So finding chassis setups is a pain. I'd love a recomended carpet setup for the M05. I've been running a M05 for most of this year in competition, but on medium-low grip asphalt. Usually with carpet setups you want to run stiff springs and heavy oil. The springs you probably want to start off with are these ones: Front: http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-short-damper-spring-hard-2pcs-53632-p-7374.html?cPath=389_443 Rear: http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-short-damper-spring-exhard-2pcs-53633-p-7360.html?cPath=389_443 I recommend upgrading the shocks to the TRF Mini Shocks, it will transform the car, as well as having the correct shock length for a Mini chassis: http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-50mm-mchassis-aluminum-damper-54000-p-25921.html?cPath=389_390 In regards to oil weight, I haven't raced on carpet, but might be worth trying around a 40 weight oil. You don't want to go too heavy as the Mini will traction roll in corners. I have found the M05 works great with softer springs on the front end and harder on the rear. Which is a complete opposite to the M03. In regards to tyres, the harder you can get for the front, the better. Ride does some carpet tyres: http://www.rcmart.com/rush-ru0338-mini-tire-carpet-hard-2pcs-p-71156.html?cPath=35_1386 On the rear I probably recommend the Team Powers TP36 tyres. The best Mini chassis shell/body to run at the moment is the Blitz Golf GTi shell. You run the M05 in mid wheelbase length, and gives you the stability of a long wheelbase, but still able to change direction easily like a short wheelbase. It also has a beefy rear wing, which is good for getting more grip to the rear of the car. This is what my Mini looks like at the moment:  EDIT: Just saw your post on RC Tech in the Mini Cooper thread 
You Am I fucked around with this message at 02:56 on Feb 22, 2017 |
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Feb 21, 2017 22:36
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Built yet another skidplate out of that aluminum. I've got enough left for a skidplate for the rear diff but I'll have to get some spacers for that one. 
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Feb 25, 2017 18:57
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Built yet another skidplate out of that aluminum. I've got enough left for a skidplate for the rear diff but I'll have to get some spacers for that one. That's rad as hell but from the pic it looks like it will interfere with the driveshaft during read suspension droop 
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Feb 26, 2017 18:18
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Geology posted:That's rad as hell but from the pic it looks like it will interfere with the driveshaft during read suspension droop It looks like it's right on top of it in the picture, doesn't it? There's about a half inch or so between them. There are some aluminum spacers (from the nerf bar kit) that are between the plate and the rear arms. It's pretty close to the gearbox guard, but they're both static pieces so there's no worry there. If I get the Tamiya rear stroke extension kit and a bigger drive shaft it may get a little tight, but I can always notch it if I need to.
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Feb 26, 2017 19:40
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Did a 6 hour endurance race with the JK. Probably would have placed better if I had more batteries to swap. 6 hours of chasing a toy truck down and then back up a quadruple black diamond ORV trail, ugh
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Feb 26, 2017 22:19
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http://i.imgur.com/WRSlKLn.mp4
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Feb 27, 2017 19:23
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So I just ordered a TLR 22 3.0 Spec Racer today after lunch for some stock buggy racing and just my luck Losi posts a teaser video of what is probably the new 4.0 buggy just a few hours later. https://www.facebook.com/167713576594021/videos/1409024652462901/
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Mar 2, 2017 02:33
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 So lets talk about the DT-02.  It's got all the features of a fancy buggy, at a hilariously low cost. For reference, I bought one of the midrange models, for $110.  A Little History First, lets talk a little history. In the early 1980's, Tamiya started releasing "cheaper" off road kits. Tamiya had sold off road cars before, but they were high end products for them. First came the Frog, in 1983, and in 1984, everyone's favorites, the Grasshopper and Hornet. This was just the start of a long list of cheap, versatile chassis that Tamiya would sell. Jumping forward a decade, Tamiya began the DT series buggies. The 1996 release of the DT-01 was more or less, a Hornet, with decent shocks. Still live axle in the back, still swing arms up front. A transverse mounted battery. The DT-01 was a kit dancing on the edge of Tyco, Nikko, and other toy store brands. But, we're not here to discuss the merits of a fancy Grasshopper are we? In 2005 Tamiya released the DT-02. https://tamiyabase.com/index.php?option=com_joodb&view=article&id=104&joobase=21&Itemid=1063 The chassis was set to bring back at least one classic car from Tamiya's history. The holiday buggy. As well as provide a platform for other hard shell, and polycarbonate bodied cars. About the Buggy In comparison to Tamiya's other buggy designs, it was a very modern design. Four wheel independent suspension, with a-arms and upper links. The steering setup is classic Tamiya off-road. (for better or worse...) And the gearbox is just about what you'd expect from Tamiya. That is, nylon gears, sealed, and .6 metric pitch.  The high points:
The low points:
 Criticism of the DT-02 One of these days, Tamiya will start building their kits without bumpsteer in them. But 2005, was not that day. Between the unequal length steering links, and the absence of a rack to get pivot points in line, there's really not a whole lot that can be done. Access to the steering servo, for replacement or maintenance, is a bit troublesome. It's a six screw job to get in there. And being trapped under the chassis brace also limits the choice of servo saver. The chassis tub, and battery retention strap are really, very specifically, designed for stick packs. With a little trimming you can get hardcase lipos to fit. But it's not an ideal situation. Due to the motor surround, and gearbox design, getting wide gearing options is more or less a non-starter. The gear cover holds one end of the spur gear shaft, this prevents easy changes of spur gear. Building the DT-02 First, this is now departing into "my experience" with the DT-02. Building the DT-02 is typical Tamiya. That's high praise. The manual is good, and is specific to the version of the DT-02 you buy. (I bought a Desert Gator) And if you follow the directions, it all comes out perfectly. Be sure to have a JIS screwdriver, as that helps with the initial threading of screws into plastic. A decent set of needle nose pliers will help assembling the CVD shocks if you got one of the ~better~ models. Not counting the body, it took me about 3 hours to go from "pile-o-Tamiya parts" to "complete DT-02."  Painting the body was easy. It's not easy to cut out, but the paint job is certainly easier than doing the paint on my Miata body for the M05.  Just a few words of advice. First, pearl white, is not a solid coat, and needs a backing white paint. Second, be sure to let your coats dry, and use very thin coats when painting over an existing coat. The decal job, is big. But covers up most sins.  The wings are usually molded "inside out." so you need to do all the masking instead of trusting the build in overspray mask.  All done, it looks a bit like this.  It's a good looking buggy. At least the desert gator is. The Holiday Buggy, and other hard body buggys look pretty good too. But are a good bit heavier. I bought this for running on the local off road track while my on road batteries are charging. So how about yours? I bought a Desert Gator. Which is about the same as the Sand Viper, minus the speed control. As opposed to something like the Super Fighter G, which has bushings, and friction dampers, it's got CVA shocks and bearings throughout. Sadly, the bearings are "just" shielded, as opposed to sealed. But it's definitely something. So instead of going to the track I've been jumping off of things. It handles stairs happily. It jumps well. On high traction surfaces, it will even wheelie! With the stock motor, it's slow enough that it handles being run into things very well. It's also fast enough to impress people. (if not someone who's really into r/c...) When I bought mine, I also bought one for a friend of mine. We built ours slightly differently.  My car is built light. I have a Turnigy D-Spec shorty steering servo. A 2600mah 90c, ultra shorty battery pack, and team blue spektrum receiver. It's very light, to get the correct ride height I only need about 3mm of preload. The other buggy, is set up with a standard size steering servo, and a compact 4600mah battery pack. It needed almost twice as much preload to get the ride height proper. Both cars are a blast to drive. But there are some things were both looking to improve. What needs fixing. With many low end cars, it's tempting to go nuts "fixing" everything on the car. Eventually you end up deep into a car, where you could have just spent the same money and bought something better right off the bat. Realistically, this is why I bought the Desert Gator, as opposed to a Super Fighter. Adjustable upper links, Bearings, and CVA shocks is a lot of value. The car could really use a ball diff. Or sealing the gear diff, and filling it with something really goopy. A brace between the front shock towers should help the cars tendency to bounce the front end over ridges. There is some room to run bigger pinions, but you'll need to enlarge the motor mounting holes. How can I buy a DT-02, whats the best to buy? The list is long. https://tamiyabase.com/index.php?option=com_joodb&view=article&id=104&joobase=21&Itemid=1063#models-with-dt-02-chassis
If it were still in production, the "car to have" would be the DT-02 MS. Sadly, it's long past it's production run. Today, the car to buy is the Sand-Viper. It comes with bearnigs, CVA shocks, adjustable upper suspension links, and an ESC. (one that supports brushless motors too!) The cars start at $100. They're a lot of car for $100.
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Mar 6, 2017 21:57
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That was an enjoyable effort post. Thanks for sharing! Tamiya cars are special; there is no doubt about it. You can spend as much money as you want on the most basic cars too, which is neat. I am fairly convinced my next car I build will be a Sand Scorcher which I will have to drive, but it will probably live life on the shelf. I finally got around to finishing my SCX10II this weekend. I need to solder up my light bar and then route my wires for the headlights/bar a little better. I ended up getting the Method 105 wheels from Vanquish and they look sexy. The paint was good in theory and probably a 7/10 on execution but at 10 feet away looks great.  
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Mar 7, 2017 00:02
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Somewhat Heroic posted:That was an enjoyable effort post. Thanks for sharing! Tamiya cars are special; there is no doubt about it. You can spend as much money as you want on the most basic cars too, which is neat. I am fairly convinced my next car I build will be a Sand Scorcher which I will have to drive, but it will probably live life on the shelf. I finally got around to finishing my SCX10II this weekend. I need to solder up my light bar and then route my wires for the headlights/bar a little better. I ended up getting the Method 105 wheels from Vanquish and they look sexy. The paint was good in theory and probably a 7/10 on execution but at 10 feet away looks great. Those wheels do look great! I like the idea behind the urban dazzle paint. When the SCX10 II came out I bought the side plates to put on my original SCX10 because I really like how they built the waterproof receiver box into the plate. The scale details like the side mirrors are a nice touch. Do you plan on wiring up the other lights or adding more scale stuff?
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Mar 7, 2017 18:40
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Yeah, that post about the Tamiya budget kit is really great. I enjoyed it a lot.
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Mar 7, 2017 18:41
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I appreciate the kind words. You can expect another one in a month or so. It looks like my friend is picking up a pair of TT02b MS for us to mess around with. That.. should be fun. The local rc track says "4wd cars use 13.5 brushless" so that's what they're gonna get. I could write up the TC4 Club Racer I have too. And the M05. We'll see what I manage.
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Mar 8, 2017 19:48
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Riller posted:Those wheels do look great! I like the idea behind the urban dazzle paint. When the SCX10 II came out I bought the side plates to put on my original SCX10 because I really like how they built the waterproof receiver box into the plate. The scale details like the side mirrors are a nice touch. Do you plan on wiring up the other lights or adding more scale stuff? Yeah I plan on running through a bunch of scale stuff and nerding it out. Probably not to the extent of an interior and driver figures but stuff to have tied down on the roof rack. For now I have the OnetoomanyRC's black beauty V2 light bar and headlights. I don't think I will add any more lights than that for now. I did put the Vanquish knuckles on this and I was sorely tempted for a while at getting the Vanquish axle housings but decided to hold off for now. The chassis mounted servo, battery mounting, and the sealed radio box is sweet. There is just gobs of room for a lot of stuff. With this being the kit version it has the new transmission too and between that and the new ring/pinion this thing is SO quiet and smooth! I think that as I get more wheel time with it and things loosen up it will only get better. I love having the steering angles with the new axles and universals too. It feels like it has 1.5x the steering my OG Honcho had. Speaking of cheap Tamiya cars I don't need look at the new TC they announced with this achingly beautiful body  
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Mar 8, 2017 19:48
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You really just need fender wells IMO. The rest of the kit looks really good out of the box.
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Mar 9, 2017 01:05
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an AOL chatroom posted:The plan was to go to the local motocross track today with some friends, but apparently some people who bought brand new houses next to said motocross track complained about the noise and are in the process of having it turned into a kale farm. I'm not even kidding. Still found some fun on a flat stretch of dirt (mud) road. Those pics are awesome as hell
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Mar 9, 2017 04:34
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My DT02, and M05 got a whole bunch of love this weekend. The DT02 had some 500,000cst oil dumped in the gear diff. The bright side, is the car never gets stuck with one wheel in the air. The less bright side, is it pushes a bit more. ... and it wasn't exactly a good steering car to start with. I also spent $25, and bought 150 shims from McMaster. The DT02 now has a whole lot less slop in the wheels. The M05 got stacked with shims too. A full mm of shims to suck the slop out of the steering knuckles, and almost as much in the rear axles. These things suddenly feel like much more professional. Now I need to disassemble the M05, and stuff the diff with more 500,000cst goop.
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Mar 13, 2017 16:44
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I recommend using rubber o rings, like what's used in the shocks, to get rid of slop out of the steering on the M05. I use 0.1mm shims between the top suspension link and the C hub and chassis, stops binding there.
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Mar 13, 2017 23:07
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IOwnCalculus posted:How many parts are unique to the 10T versus the OG RC10? Aren't there some re-released parts now? I honestly don't know. When something breaks, I go to e-bay and match up the broken part with pictures. I don't even know what transmission I have in the truck anymore. In other news, I put new driveshafts and drive cups in the center of my Inferno GT2. Shimmed everything and did a few speed runs, 98 MPH with ease. On the last run it spit out the rear driveshaft, bent in half, just like the last time. Everything was set up perfect, so I think my only option is to see if X-01 or other taller tires will fit to bring the RPM down. I think I have a 37T pinion, and the motor is pulling all the way to ~60K on 6S, so I'm maxxed out on RPM and gearing. Put it back together and geared it back down for parking lot fun for a while. In the meantime, I picked up a sick deal on another brand-new Inferno GT2 with an RB mods OPS NEXT .21. I said I'd never go back to nitro, but this was way too good to pass up. Still breaking it in, but I am super impressed with the insanity of this motor, even with it still being quite rich. Once the weather gets back into the 50's I'll finish the break-in and see what it'll do. Definitely seems like it makes about as much power as a MM on 6S, but I won't know until I can get the tires hot and get it to stick. It also weighs a good bit less than my electric, which is great! I'm still on the lookout for a great parking lot in the middle of nowhere, because this thing will wake up the dead. I'll post pictures soon. Also, just for fun, I got my NTC-3 back up and running. Had tuning problems and found out the O.S. .18 CV-R I had was bashed up a little inside, so I bought what I assumed was a fairly junk motor from Tower Hobbies. It's a an RcGearshop(Duratrax) .18 I got for a whopping $35. Got it installed, broken in, and tuned. This "junk" motor screams harder than my O.S. did, and seems every bit as good. I honestly can't find any fault with it, especially for that price. I think they're back up to $45 now, but well worth it if you need a cheap small-block to throw in something.
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Mar 14, 2017 22:18
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The recurring theme is that for the most part, nearly any cheap Chinese "garbage" part today is about as good or better than the race-quality poo poo was 15-20+ years ago. R/C is essentially cheaper and better today than it's ever been in the past. The exception being HPI VTA tires. gently caress me those things are inconsistent from one batch to the next.
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Mar 14, 2017 22:27
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You Am I posted:I recommend using rubber o rings, like what's used in the shocks, to get rid of slop out of the steering on the M05. I use 0.1mm shims between the top suspension link and the C hub and chassis, stops binding there. The o-rings to suck up slop is a trick I have from r/c helicopters. I haven't done that yet.... But I will before the weekend.
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Mar 14, 2017 22:40
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Pretty sure all of the < .21 engines are bargain prices now because the smaller nitro classes are dead.
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Mar 15, 2017 06:34
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Currently running a Tamiya Mini in my state on road electric champs. Looks like after the qualifying rounds I have come 4th out of 15 entrees
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Mar 18, 2017 10:58
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That's rad. Many moons ago when we had the TCS race locally I won the Formula 1 class (it was when the F201 4WD Formula cars were driving). I loved that car and race. I took home the brand new released yesterday Kraken VEKTA Levi Shirley Maxxis kit. I'll be posting some build pics, I already have a VEKTA but this one I get to put together and paint. It's gonna be friggin sweet.
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Mar 18, 2017 16:06
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Got second in my class! Sorry about the crap photo, but been a fairly busy weekend: F201s were awesome cars, it's amazing how they could package 4WD in such a small chassis
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Mar 19, 2017 10:56
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