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Not sure what you're referring to in the OP and without seeing the ripped thing it's always kind of hard to tell what the best way of repairing it is. In general, a running or backstitch should be fine to repair the rip. If the rip was because the denim is getting old and thin, you might want to think about putting a patch behind to strengthen everything. Rice bag is kind of the same deal, hard to say without seeing. You can use a basic running stitch and/or zig zag to stabilize a weave and prevent more rips, but is it worth your time? The good news is that natural fibers are microwave safe so you can make another one out of your old clothes if it's not.
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Jan 16, 2017 05:40
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I've got a few small projects I want to do. One is a rip in a pair of jeans parallel to the waistband. Could I just darn that like in the OP? It won't be visible, it's under where the belt goes. There's no hole or lost fabric, just a rip. If you patch with a piece of backing that's with the grain, it'll split because whoever wore it split it fort a reason and they will repeat it in the future, so either you make it bulletproof or it will fail. I used to have to give diagnoses like this when I worked at a dry cleaner that had a seamstress on staff.. And when stuff wears through or splits because it was too tight and was stressed by extremes like dancing and poo poo, it just splits and you can't ever make it whole - b ut you can make a thick patch and work with it. edit: darning the waistband will work but your belt will wear it out rq, like make within 1-7 wears, based on how much the belt slides and you stress that same pint of fabric. Darning is punk as gently caress though! As for rice bags I'd want a pic because I'm 
coyo7e fucked around with this message at 10:43 on Jan 16, 2017 |
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Jan 16, 2017 10:37
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I'm not going to be on the forums much anymore but I do have instagram/Facebook etc https://www.instagram.com/funhilde/
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Jan 20, 2017 04:11
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This is a question of profound ignorance, but I was looking to taper a pair of jeans. The catch is that they are mototcycle denim (66% dyneema), and it's basically impossible to cut the fabric. From what I gather there is an alternate method involving basically folding the excess fabric into the pant leg? Anyone have a guide to this? Most online stuff involves scissors.
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Feb 2, 2017 01:46
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I know how to no-cut hem pants, but not no-cut taper. I guess you could basically sew darts into the jeans. https://blog.colettehq.com/tutorials/tutorial-sewing-darts I think it'd look rather funky though.
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Feb 2, 2017 03:12
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Why is it basically impossible to cut that fabric?
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Feb 2, 2017 08:58
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tirinal posted:This is a question of profound ignorance, but I was looking to taper a pair of jeans. The catch is that they are mototcycle denim (66% dyneema), and it's basically impossible to cut the fabric. Oh you can cut it. Takes a very sharpe blade and dulls it very quickly, but you're talking about a pretty small project. Either keep a whetstone near for proper shears/a good knife, or have a whole pack of rotary blades/ razors on hand. Not sure about the needle, sharper is better, but if the fabric is thick get heavy canvas/denim ones.
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Feb 2, 2017 09:27
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I'm looking to buy my first serger, and I'm interested in either the Brother 1034d or Janome MOD 8933. It's easy to find reviews of the former but not so much the latter - does anyone happen to have experience with it to share?
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Feb 3, 2017 14:44
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I can't review the Janome because I've never heard of that brand, but I have the Brother 1034d and really love it, FWIW. I will say it took me a good four hours to learn to thread it correctly - watch youtube videos instead of reading the manual, cause they're way way more helpful, and get cones of thread that are specifically marked as serger thread, cause I spent a lot of time snapping thread despite a correctly threaded machine because the thread was poo poo quality. (I can make recommendations if desired.) But now I can thread it correctly the first time every time, and it's overall been very good to me. Also I suspect those pieces of advice may not be specific to this particular serger, but as I've only owned the one I don't really know. I will say that this machine is ubiquitous enough that I have had no trouble finding tutorials on how to use it for xyz, which is handy. If you can't find reviews of the Janome you might not be able to find troubleshooting info or tutorials either.
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Feb 3, 2017 19:13
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I have a Brother 1034d, and I can say the box makes a very reliable footrest because oh god why did I buy this I don't need it and have never used it. One of these days, I swear..
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Feb 4, 2017 12:10
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I love my 1034D too! The only thing I'll say it's not *great* at is flatlocking. I tried a million tension settings and it was never quite right. But for general serging, it's been a beast, and it's crazy easy to thread compared to other sergers I've used. Speaking of serging I just whipped up another cosplay, which involved a whole lot of it:   I am the Gay Ice Skate Man! Lemme tell you that working with a layer of power mesh and a layer of fishnet is a real pain, the spray adhesive didn't want to keep them together, so I had to baste the edges of all the pieces together. Oh, I also made his casual gear because why not? The jacket made me so mad though, it's pattern made no sense, no one would put a piped seam all the way across a back yoke and down both arms. But that's how it was drawn, far as I could tell. I made the shirt from scratch too, but the pants were already pants, I just replace the white in them with teal (which was probably more time consuming than just making new pants.)   Still grinding away at Yotsuyu with two weeks left until Katsucon, aughhh! I thought the hashtag #katsucrunch was a joke, but it's very real.
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Feb 4, 2017 14:23
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Goldaline posted:I am the Gay Ice Skate Man! That's really amazing! You are giving me inspiration to go beyond hemming my pants.
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Feb 4, 2017 14:47
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effika posted:That's really amazing! You are giving me inspiration to go beyond hemming my pants. Can you come and hem mine? I have a pile of like four pairs that have been sitting there for months.
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Feb 4, 2017 15:04
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That jacket!  I need it in my life. Did you work out the patterns from scratch?
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Feb 4, 2017 17:30
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NancyPants posted:That jacket! It's really comfy, and I'll probably wear it after the con, no one needs to know how dorky it is. For the patterns I used my patented "I Was Never Taught How To Do This" technique, of taking a garment somewhat close (in this case, a hoodie that was on it's way out) and drawing new seams and style lines on it, then cutting it up and using that to draw out the pattern.  The yellow bits are the old hoodie.  My cleaned up pattern. Wtf at that sleeve construction, but it really did seem to have shoulder seams and like, half a raglan sleeve.  I was so mad about the giant piped seam. Same thing with the body suit, where I had to move some seams around, always hide your construction seams in the applique design if you can!   And I just bunged my legging pattern onto the bottom.
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Feb 5, 2017 03:04
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It looks so good, though. Being able to make cool looking workout/casual clothes is the whole reason I wanted to learn to sew. It might have been a bitch to sew but that piped seam and unusual construction looks so cool I want to marry it. Once I can sit again you can bet I'll be attempting something similar to that jacket.
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Feb 5, 2017 06:57
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kernel panic posted:I'm looking to buy my first serger, and I'm interested in either the Brother 1034d or Janome MOD 8933. It's easy to find reviews of the former but not so much the latter - does anyone happen to have experience with it to share? Otherwise expect to drop a grand on a machine you don't even grok (I saw the receipts from my hand-me-down serger and gently caress - I'd never buy one unless i had intended to make sewing stuff into a legit income ASAP) Mostly lately I'm spending all my time learning CAD software tools, and realizing how amazing using something similarcould be for sewing projects - does anyone have recommendations? I've been learning in  autocad but it sounds as though sketchup or autodesk inventor may be more viable for making patterns (especially in 3d)..?
Adding a true physical load to the emotional connotation of the character here was brilliant, imho. From a design perspective - why the gently caress should someone in an anime/etc costume not be able to perform real tasks and have their kit not split on them?  Your posts own. Even though I can't stand anime or come close to matching your steady hand and technique, I love seeing you work through the solutions to making insanely-awkward outfits and how clean and straight they turn out. You're one of my heroes, seriously. coyo7e fucked around with this message at 07:40 on Feb 5, 2017 |
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Feb 5, 2017 07:35
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NancyPants posted:It looks so good, though. Being able to make cool looking workout/casual clothes is the whole reason I wanted to learn to sew. I make a lot of workout clothes and t-shirts, it's really easy and so satisfying to be able to make something in a couple hours that I wear all the time. I don't really post about that stuff because it's not very exciting. It wasn't all that hard to sew, really, I was just mad at how weird it was. I was also working off many janky screen caps that all seemed to show slightly different placement of the piping, so that was just sort of my 'gently caress it!' solution. coyo7e posted:hold off on your purchase. read up on serger theory (no joke) and once you are familiar enough to eyeball a serger on-sight whether or not it's ample, the start hitting estate sales.. It's almost spring so yard sales and estate sales are coming in hot! Haha, thanks. It's a really just a silly reference to the character needing to lose some off-season chub at the start of the show. It was the best picture I had on hand of the top. My goal is always to make my costumes as close to real clothing as possible-line it, put real pockets on it, basically use all the same construction methods I would to make normal clothes. Using 'real' fabrics is also a big factor I think. Certain fabrics have immediate 'costume' vibes to me. It's why I use a lot of twill, sweatshirt fleece, activewear materials-they have a certain innate 'integrity' This was easy to do that with, since it was all sports wear based. Yotsuyu (the spiky mess posted further up) is really pushing it for me, the metallic spandex means I can't even machine wash it, which sucks. Sometimes I think this 'realism' makes my costumes a little less...impactful? Dramatic? But that's OK, I'm not here to win contests, I just like the process of translating things into clothing. Sorry, I started drifting into Artist Statement stuff (though really it's just me justifying spending time making silly stuff instead of 'real art' by trying to give it some relation to my other work) Anyway I wanna do this next/soon:  Oh, and I think I've seen people use pepakura programs to make sewing patterns? I dunno, I'm a very 2d thinker/pattern maker so that's very out of my expertise.
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Feb 5, 2017 14:20
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kernel panic posted:I'm looking to buy my first serger, and I'm interested in either the Brother 1034d or Janome MOD 8933. It's easy to find reviews of the former but not so much the latter - does anyone happen to have experience with it to share? I got the Juki MO-50e and it is about the same price point as the Brother. I really like it so far. I got it as a back up to my pfaff coverlock and I am now not using the other machine at all until I can figure out how to actually coverlock with it.
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Feb 6, 2017 07:51
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Ripped jeans I posted about a while back. I ripped them pulling them on years ago when it didn't even occur to me that I could be gaining weight. How can I mend these? Do I need a scrap of denim for backing? If it makes a difference, I'm a man, and these are 100% cotton 501 button flies. I usually wear a belt too.
22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Mar 4, 2017 |
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Mar 4, 2017 20:37
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It's a ripped seam, right? If it were mine I'd pull out a few more stitches on either side of the rip, run some kind of heavy button stitch over the fraying part, and resew the waistband a little bit farther down where the fabric is still tight. Maybe put a little patch in the inside to make it extra sturdy.
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Mar 4, 2017 21:22
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A sewing shop would probably fix it just like they would a hole in the knee. They'd put a patch behind it and stitch over it a billion times and the end result is barely noticeable.
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Mar 4, 2017 21:51
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there wolf posted:It's a ripped seam, right? If it were mine I'd pull out a few more stitches on either side of the rip, run some kind of heavy button stitch over the fraying part, and resew the waistband a little bit farther down where the fabric is still tight. Maybe put a little patch in the inside to make it extra sturdy. None of the stitches are gone, the fabric just ripped right there. Is that still what you meant? My sewing expertise is limited to buttons. I can look up what you're saying and learn it, though. Will this need a sewing machine? That's no problem, I'll just have to ask to use my mother in law's shop. Should I use similar weight denim, or does it not matter?
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Mar 4, 2017 22:02
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It's not but the repair steps aren't that different. Take out the seams holding the waistband over, and a little beyond, the ripped part. Sew the two sides of the hole together, put a patch behind it, run over it all with a zig-zag or buttonhole stitch, and re-attach the waistband. In a perfect world you'd be able to hide the whole fix under the waistband, but a belt will certainly cover it. It's doable by hand, but faster and easier with a machine.
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Mar 4, 2017 22:54
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Ripped jeans I posted about a while back. I ripped them pulling them on years ago when it didn't even occur to me that I could be gaining weight. How can I mend these? Do I need a scrap of denim for backing? If it makes a difference, I'm a man, and these are 100% cotton 501 button flies. I usually wear a belt too. I've tried to repair a lot of my super comfy favorite jeans and if they get worn a lot or washed a lot, you'll end up with frays along the edges or either the backing fabric, or the stitching, depending on how much effort someone put in and how. If you wore a spiky belt to a party or got hooked on something and it just gouged your jeans then yeah, putting an hour or two into trying to repair them might be worth it if you aren't going to wear them to run and catch the bus. I've had a lot of denim and corduroy repairs give out in sad ways and bad timing. You ripped them pulling them on so maybe keep them in a drawer until you've had a really great diet regimen and are bringing your old clothes out again. I mean no joke, if you expect to do anything wearing them, it'll only be three times worse the next time it happens. coyo7e fucked around with this message at 08:22 on Mar 9, 2017 |
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Mar 9, 2017 08:19
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Kind of on the denim repair topic: I am a thick-thighed individual, and some of my favorite pairs of jeans are getting thin / worn / not all the way to rips or holes (but working on it, clearly gonna get there in a few months) in the inner thigh. I can just install a small patch inside and maybe zigzag over the weak points themselves, right? When I've done this in the past the patches are kind of huge & ugly & I can feel them when I walk. Can I do it with another, lighter fabric so it doesn't feel so bulky? I worry about using something like a plain cotton since my jeans do have stretch.
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Mar 9, 2017 18:22
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Nicol Bolas posted:Kind of on the denim repair topic: I am a thick-thighed individual, and some of my favorite pairs of jeans are getting thin / worn / not all the way to rips or holes (but working on it, clearly gonna get there in a few months) in the inner thigh. I can just install a small patch inside and maybe zigzag over the weak points themselves, right? The idea behind patching is that the weave has a weak point, and the patch is a sort of crutch that lets you redirect some of the force applied to the weave around that weak point so it doesn't get over-strained and damage more. But in the same way that a real crutch puts more strain on your shoulder even as it takes it from your leg, a patch puts more strain on whatever part of the weave it's anchored to by sewing. For torn seams or a cut caused by something snagging the fabric that's no big deal. If the threads in the weave are still in good condition they can take the extra strain just fine. But if what you're talking about is friction damage across a huge chunk of the weave, then I'd be worried that in patching the worst parts you're just going to put too much strain on the not as bad ones. If most of the inner thigh fabric is starting to get thin then any repair work is going to be a delay of the inevitable. But if you think it's worth it to get a little more time out of your pants (and are willing to risk tear-outs) then patch away. What you're actually doing is stabilizing the weave, so you want something with a little less stretch than the denim. I've used plain old muslin before on stretchy jeans and it's worked fine, but if you want a little more movement then a cotton-blend or a proper knit stabilizer might work. Oh, and all you need to do is place the patch behind the bad part and run a bunch of stitches over both layers. there wolf fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Mar 9, 2017 |
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Mar 9, 2017 22:28
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Nicol Bolas posted:Kind of on the denim repair topic: I am a thick-thighed individual, and some of my favorite pairs of jeans are getting thin / worn / not all the way to rips or holes (but working on it, clearly gonna get there in a few months) in the inner thigh. I can just install a small patch inside and maybe zigzag over the weak points themselves, right? I've not worn a lot of stretch denim but for basic cotton, the problem is really that by the time the weak point gets noticeable, a huge percentage of the fabric of the rest of the garment is also going to be getting thin and tired, too. Rubbing points like thighs and ankle seams, the corners of pockets, rivets and buttons, that spot where people who like to carry clip-on pocket knives keep their knife - once it starts to go it's only ever going to be a delaying action, and to be really fully satisfied with a repair is pretty rare. Bicycling is also a great way to go through a ton of expensive denim really quickly - Carhartts are reinforced for bucking bales and kicking brush out of the way, not stressing the crotch for tens of thousands of steps a day..  I mean the only real way to repair something is to put either a stupid-big patch over it, or replace the worn-out part. If you had a gear in a motor that was wearing down - would you hot-glue a little bit extra onto the tips and then expect it to hold up for long? edit: I worked in a dry cleaner full time for like 5 or 6 years, and did all the pricing and customer education for repairs and alterations in my store. I've seen what you can do with worn-out thighs and I'd only recommend it if you're like, an old man who only wears those slacks once a week to church. coyo7e fucked around with this message at 07:21 on Mar 10, 2017 |
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Mar 10, 2017 07:15
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Amusingly enough, I bike to work, so it's good to hear it's not just my thunder ruining pants. I love stretch denim and as a plus size person I don't think I have ever found denim in my size that isn't stretch. But I'm also not spending over $100 a pair so it's not as if it's a major investment piece getting ruined, so I guess I can live with wearing them out til they get a hole & replacing them when they do.
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Mar 10, 2017 20:37
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Yeah there is just gently caress-all you can do about bike (or a lot of walking) wear on denim - except to carry your pants to work and put them on there. I was trying to change my style from a "geek" to a "blue collar" look and blew out like 4 pairs of carhartts in a couple seasons just biking maybe 5 miles a day to work and back. The size of your thighs and how much they rub has absolutely no bearing - it's actually the repetitive "cross-grain" tension on the fabric that's wearing it out while biking (also I imagine this would end up making stretch denim look baggy in the thigh gap, since the lycra will break down first), more than any fabric-on-fabric contact for the main part. I have been scrawny thin and I have had thighs that rub when I walk or bike, and they all wear out in the same spot if you do the same kind of stuff in them, for the most part. coyo7e fucked around with this message at 09:22 on Mar 11, 2017 |
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Mar 11, 2017 09:19
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Now, all that being said, my clients have said that putting a large prophylactic saddle-shaped patch on the inside of the groin/butt region of their biking pants has doubled their life, but that's before damage starts, and it stabilizes the fabric because I use fusible web for the patch and sew the dickens out of it.
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Mar 14, 2017 19:31
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coyo7e posted:The first thing I'd want to know before that repair (if I am not taking your money for you having the work done) is how old are these pants, and since I can't get a feel for the fabric, how worn is it, and what kind of damage? The way this looks - it almost could be a weak seam. Oh, I ripped them literally four and a half years ago at this point. I weigh less now, and am especially smaller in the thighs, where they had been tight. They're about 10.5oz denim. They've been worn a decent amount, they're the only pair where I actually like the fades. I noticed they're getting close to a crotch blowout too. My mother in law doesn't let anyone else use her sewing machine, but she offered to mend them for me, which is even better. I'll have her mend the impending blowout too. I used to ride my bike in them all the time. I had a catastrophic rip in the crotch (of the pants  ) in another pair, which is when I started wearing carhartts that lasted longer and I didn't like as much.
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Mar 15, 2017 00:42
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My girlfriend is looking for an overlocker machine. Not too expensive, but not poo poo. What should she get?
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Mar 18, 2017 13:00
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Boz0r posted:My girlfriend is looking for an overlocker machine. Not too expensive, but not poo poo. What should she get? Brother 1034 or Juki MO-50e I have the Juki and its a pretty good machine.
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Mar 22, 2017 03:29
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The 1034 is much better than it has any right to be for the price.
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Mar 22, 2017 18:01
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Dunno if this is the right place for it but I have a pair of suede boots that I like, but the grommet on the upper eyelet on each boot is loose. Like, it falls apart when you slide shoelaces along it. I don't have a grommet crimper, so I tried securing it with pliers. No dice, and now the grommet is broken beyond repair. I would like to replace all the grommets now with the same thing. How should I do this and what equipment do I need? Also, would it be possible to get grommets made of something somewhat flexible? I have weirdly shaped feet or something and metal grommets dig into my feet if the tongue of whatever shoe they're on doesn't completely cover the grommet when they're on. I'd like to just get soft grommets if possible. If not, what do?
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Mar 23, 2017 20:42
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signalnoise posted:Dunno if this is the right place for it but You can get a grommet kit at Michael's or similar craft stores. I assume also hardware stores would have them. I think the problem would be removing all the unbroken grommets without damaging the leather. You might be better off going you a shoe repair place to see if they can do it for you. Maybe they can remove the grommets and replace them with leather trim or something? Edit: or see if they can add a strip of padding on the inside to prevent them digging into your feet.
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Mar 23, 2017 21:16
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Yeah, anything soft you'd use in place of a grommet is unlikely to hold up to the strain. Better off finding a way to pad the eyelets assuming it's worth replacing at all. Talk to an actual cobbler about it.
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Mar 24, 2017 00:43
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This page has a lot of serge chatting, so is it alright to brag about my new machine? I broke my Brother 1034D about a year ago, serging a piece of muslin of all things, and refused to pay 80 bucks to fix such a cheap machine. So I endured living without one for a year, and this past week got the Elna 664 Pro. I am in love. I have to say that if I could go back and do it all over, I'd go ahead and invest in this machine first. It's so clear how everything works; I have tension recommendations for all the stitches right on the machine, and the manual is a lot more helpful than my Brother's collection of DVDs. I also get a free lesson and machine servicing from my shop! The stitch is lovely, and made sewing stretch velvet this past week a breeze. So now it's time to conquer my fear of chiffon! Wish me luck!
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Apr 9, 2017 20:51
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Princess Tutu posted:This page has a lot of serge chatting, so is it alright to brag about my new machine? Good luck! I think hobbyists tend to get stuck in this vicious cycle with cheap machines. You buy a cheap one because you're not making income from the hobby and/or you're not sure you'll like it, but the machine is a pain to use and/or breaks down often, so you probably don't enjoy the hobby as much as you would with a better quality tool.
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Apr 9, 2017 21:26
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