|
Having just done spark plugs on my WJ, this set of wobble extensions made the job a hell of a lot easier. They give you enough angle to deal with the lovely access to the rear plugs, without flopping all over like a universal joint.
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2017 20:11
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 09:19 |
|
|
Could I bother this thread to post what your garage workbenches look like? I'm trying to figure out a set up and oh god I don't know what I'm doing.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2017 20:39
|
|
|
um excuse me posted:Could I bother this thread to post what your garage workbenches look like? I'm trying to figure out a set up and oh god I don't know what I'm doing.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2017 20:51
|
|
|
um excuse me posted:Could I bother this thread to post what your garage workbenches look like? I'm trying to figure out a set up and oh god I don't know what I'm doing. I don't know why you thought any goon workbenches would be well-organized or clean.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2017 20:55
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:It doesn't matter, it's always buried under a half ton of crap and I end up working on the floor instead. I just spent an hour cleaning mine today. Well, by "cleaning," I mean putting everything that's stacked on top of each other back into its original place. Cordless tools back in the boxes with batteries charged, sockets back on the racks, dremel discs all accounted for an put in the box, and on and on. Now, while I cannot see the entire top of my workbench, I can at least tell that it's made out of wood.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2017 21:14
|
|
EVERYWHERE 
|
um excuse me posted:Could I bother this thread to post what your garage workbenches look like? I'm trying to figure out a set up and oh god I don't know what I'm doing.  Top is 96"x28", bottom shelf is 88"x20". Build a 2x4 frame to fit under each, butt joints and screws is fine. Decide on the height you want, minus the top thickness. Build 4 legs that height (2x4 and 2x6 if you want them to look even, 2x4 & 2x4 if you don't care). Legs go inside the top, outside the bottom shelf. More screws. Done. Beer. As Dave says, not that it matters because I need to clean off as many square inches as I need to use every time I come to it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2017 21:21
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:It doesn't matter, it's always buried under a half ton of crap and I end up working on the floor instead. LOL yes.  Here's the only picture I have of it unmolested, right after I moved in.  It's my grandma's old kitchen cabinet lowers. I have the uppers shoved into a corner in case I ever get around to setting them up as well. I also have a heavy old metal office desk I got for fr$$, and a chair for seated work. It is also covered in crap.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2017 21:36
|
|
|
um excuse me posted:Could I bother this thread to post what your garage workbenches look like? I'm trying to figure out a set up and oh god I don't know what I'm doing. Mine looks like this https://www.familyhandyman.com/workshop/workbench/how-to-build-a-workbench-super-simple-50-bench/view-all Except the craftsmanship is poor, and the lumber is from home depot.  Buuuuuut it's taken a pounding and has my vice mounted to it. Lots of shelves and storage for my little 2 car garage.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2017 02:57
|
|
|
I made the same as Larrymer. I'll snap a picture of it tomorrow, I was putting new metal shelving up in the garage today so I've stack a ton of stuff on and around it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2017 03:16
|
|
|
um excuse me posted:Could I bother this thread to post what your garage workbenches look like? I'm trying to figure out a set up and oh god I don't know what I'm doing. I don't even know the last time I saw the top of my workbench, it's usually several layers deep in tools from various projects, and this isn't even the worst that it's been  My office workbench is marginally better though 
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2017 03:38
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Having just done spark plugs on my WJ, this set of wobble extensions made the job a hell of a lot easier. They give you enough angle to deal with the lovely access to the rear plugs, without flopping all over like a universal joint. I love wobbles. I bought a set of universal joints but I've hardly ever used them because I never ran into a situation where the wobble couldn't do the job better.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2017 03:46
|
|
|
We should have a post your garage/bench thread, it's been a few years.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2017 03:49
|
|
|
The one I posted up page was started last year and isn't in archives yet. If no one else does I'll take pictures of my buried workbench tonight and resurrect it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2017 09:50
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:It doesn't matter, it's always buried under a half ton of crap and I end up working on the floor instead. I tore out my workbenches for that reason.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2017 16:05
|
|
|
That's what I hate about winter. Too drat cold to actually work in the garage so the bench just gathers garbage until it's nice enough to spend an entire Saturday unfucking it. In tool news, my wife got me a pretty cool early Valentine's gift. https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2401-22 Same one I bought for my dad for Christmas. I was playing around with his and kinda really wanted it. It's purely a screwdriver and light-duty drill so no heavy poo poo, but that's all I want it for. I've got a Makita cordless screwdriver now and it's nice enough, but there's no feathering on the throttle. On or off. I think it's only 7.2 volts or thereabouts as well. Pretty sure Makita stopped making tools for the battery it takes, too. But now that I've got some M12 batteries, I obviously want some other poo poo. I'm eyeballing their 3/8" impact. I know you guys will tell me to step up the M18 and get the 1/2", but I've already got a corded 1/2" and that's fine for me. Anybody here have any experience with the 3/8"?
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2017 16:42
|
|
|
I'd get an impact driver over a screwdriver.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2017 16:55
|
|
|
BraveUlysses posted:I'd get an impact driver over a screwdriver. If you're using it for screwdriver-ey applications, I'd rather have the drill with an adjustable clutch so you don't strip out the threads. Or a clutched vertically aligned screwdriver, that'd be great. I use this corded Proxxon electric screwdriver at work, and it's great for working on electronics at my desk, though maybe not for home use kinda stuff.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2017 18:31
|
|
|
slidebite posted:Hell yes Prior page and all, but how are you liking it? I wanted a MaxJax so bad when I had a garage a while back, but I didn't trust the guy who built the garage to pour enough cement as the cement was cracked badly in the garage and the driveway. This looks like an excellent setup that's much easier to use (and with no need to drill into cement, install as well).
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2017 19:12
|
|
|
RillAkBea posted:I love wobbles. I bought a set of universal joints but I've hardly ever used them because I never ran into a situation where the wobble couldn't do the job better. I have a set of U-joints and I like them, but these wobble extensions make them only really useful for either impact usage or extreme angles. The other nice thing is the wobble gives you a little angle to play with getting the extensions seated. The passenger rear plug on the 4.7 WJ requires you to drop the socket in with an extension that barely reaches up above the spark plug tube, and then drop a second short extension on that to get your ratchet on. There's not enough room to angle in a single extension of the proper length. With the wobbles I had angle on the plug socket to the first extension, and another angle between extensions, so I could get them all lined up with each other. A quick push down and they all lock up straight. The other saving grace was my flex-head ratchet, which is a proper old Craftsman hand-me-down from my late father-in-law. Never met the man but his tools sure come in handy.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2017 19:37
|
|
|
Ripoff posted:Prior page and all, but how are you liking it? I wanted a MaxJax so bad when I had a garage a while back, but I didn't trust the guy who built the garage to pour enough cement as the cement was cracked badly in the garage and the driveway. This looks like an excellent setup that's much easier to use (and with no need to drill into cement, install as well). Sorry, been meaning to spend some time with it but with the house purchasing and everything the last couple weeks it's taken a bit of a back burner. I've basically assembled it but haven't done much more with it. I'll do a bit of an effort post later OK? I'm home sick with a cold, but if I feel up to farting around in the garage maybe I'll give it a whirl.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2017 20:14
|
|
|
Ripoff posted:This looks like an excellent setup that's much easier to use (and with no need to drill into cement, install as well). Yeah, I like the look of that because it gives more flexibility in the future for if I want to have a vehicle lifted dead center in the garage, or offset towards one side or the other.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2017 20:21
|
|
|
I've been wanting a laser level to use with my magnetic stud finder for a while. I'm not sure about the utility of the bundled laser tape measure, but this looks like a decent deal for the combo. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-10...9700INT&cj=true
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2017 19:00
|
|
|
Portable soldering iron: gas or battery? I only need to solder about 8 wires under my bonnet, but I am not within reach of a power socket, so I need a portable one. Preferably cheap, cause I probably won't use it again.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 01:09
|
|
|
For a one‐off on automotive wiring, I’d go with gas.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 01:13
|
|
|
slidebite posted:I could have sworn we had a garage thread here but I can't find it.. but any recommendations for a brand of 110V/natural gas shop heater? Reznor? So ended up buying a 45K btu Modine for $800 from Amazon. Received it, box was open and nothing was in it except the heater itself. No manual, no accessories, no electric panel cover, nothing. gently caress. Returning to Amazon now. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 01:56
|
|
|
slidebite posted:So ended up buying a 45K btu Modine for $800 from Amazon. Received it, box was open and nothing was in it except the heater itself. No manual, no accessories, no electric panel cover, nothing. gently caress. drat.  Which one was it? I got this one for my dad's garage in November and it showed up perfect. A lot of the stuff was inside the unit underneath a panel, but it was all there. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0096MJ522
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 02:00
|
|
|
That's it exactly, actually. I never thought of opening the unit itself. I left it in the office but I'll take a closer look. You're giving me hope.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 02:06
|
|
|
I've given in to my poor judgement and bought more snap-on tools....electric ratchet and electric 1/4 impact.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 03:54
|
|
|
Was driving by the office and had 30 seconds to take a quick look. Didn't have time to take it out if the box but I peered in and could see a plastic bag with a manual inside the heater. Cautiously optimistic that it is complete after all. Will know tomorrow for sure.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 04:28
|
|
|
Hahaha, in my uncaffeinated head, the conversation went like this:Goon A posted:Portable soldering iron: gas or battery? Platystemon posted:For a one‐off on automotive wiring, I’d go with gas. Also Goon A posted:So ended up buying a 45K btu Modine for $800 from Amazon. and I was like "that's a lot of BTUs and dollars for something he needs to use only once..."
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 07:06
|
|
|
Yeah but if you really want to solder two cars together you want to be sure of that joint.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 13:41
|
|
|
cakesmith handyman posted:Yeah but if you really want to solder two cars together you want to be sure of that joint.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 14:27
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:You'd have to be pretty brazen to try and get that through an MOT. Though maybe it's permitted now, the specific regulations are always in flux. Anyhow... slidebite posted:Hell yes oxbrain posted:What's the build quality like? Do they smell like harbor freight? Ripoff posted:Prior page and all, but how are you liking it? I wanted a MaxJax so bad when I had a garage a while back, but I didn't trust the guy who built the garage to pour enough cement as the cement was cracked badly in the garage and the driveway. This looks like an excellent setup that's much easier to use (and with no need to drill into cement, install as well). Observations: Built pretty well. It is actually quite a bit heavier than I expected it to be. Supposedly the gross weight of the unit is supposed to be 212lbs. I'd say the 110v powerpak is about 30lbs which would leave about 90lbs per "jack". I think that's quite low. I would suspect each weighs well over 100lbs each side. That's not a bad thing, but they are chunky and awkward to move around. If you're manoeuvring in a tight garage make sure you have good control over it because if it slipped and fell on your car you'd be having a bad day. Assembly wasn't smooth but I've definitely put together worse things. The instructions were mediocre. They were quite generic and some of the photos, and even a step or two, weren't even applicable to the unit which is a little confusing. There was contradictory info for some things, like oil reservoir capacity (1.9 vs 2.5L?) and the whole bleed process was a big enough pain in the rear end that I'd bet more than half the people that buy one of these never properly bled it. They use an odd combination of NPT and JIC hydraulic fittings and actually dictate the use thread tape which, while a lot of people do use in hydraulics, is absolutely not a best practice for hydraulic systems at least not without extreme care. If even a tiny a piece of tape gets into the circuit it can wreak havoc with the pump but especially the valve, causing hanging and binding. To their credit, the instructions make it clear to only go on the "lower" part of the thread and not to be near the open end, but that's only about as good as people follow them. Would be best to use a non taper thread where sealant isn't required and idiot proof it. The ramps are however very solid and finished well. A small hitch putting it together as I had to thread a fitting into the end of the cylinder, but a small gusset on one of the jacks actually interfered with rotating the adapter fitting. So, I actually had to grind off about 1/8-1/4" of material so I could put the fitting on. It was only on one side, not the other so I am going to assume it was a fluke on mine. Once that was on, it was just time consuming and awkward connecting everything else and bleeding, bleeding and bleeding some more to get the air out. End of the day, yes, it works. Seems to work quite well.  Don't mind the paper towel on that one end, I left it there from the bleeding process to get some of the oil off the concrete. Takes a little bit of work and getting used to manoeuvring the ramps and routing the hoses to make sure they don't get in the way of anything and set the jack points in the right spot. On the 996 I could actually only put the ramps in this way - I couldn't reverse them because the wheels got in the way. But once you get it lined up it goes up like a drat and I am sure it will get way easier the more I use it. Good ground clearance. I am 99.9% sure I could drop the motor out the bottom of the 911 with them. Very, very steady and secure. I would not feel unsafe under these at all which is one of the main reasons why I wanted them.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 21:29
|
|
|
Platystemon posted:For a one‐off on automotive wiring, I’d go with gas. Honestly I'd crimp every time in this scenario. I can do a decent solder joint on a workbench with loads of light and tools to help hold poo poo. Under a hood / dash of a car? gently caress that. A good ratcheting crimper with good crimps (bonus points for heat-shrinking crimps) will do a repeatable good job with a fraction of the effort. slidebite, those look awesome.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 21:49
|
|
|
They lock in place once raised right? (The diagonal bar behind the ram?) Looks good.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 21:54
|
|
|
Thanks. Yes there are two fixed heights with that safety bar. I probably should have had the ramps switched so the safety catch was actually on the outside as opposed to the inside but doesn't really make a difference although you would have been able to see it better. Basically you raise it to the height you want until it passes the safety catch. Then you engage the safety catch and relieve the pressure in the system. That way the Hydraulics aren't actually holding anything it's the catch.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 22:02
|
|
|
Platystemon posted:For a one‐off on automotive wiring, I’d go with gas.  Will one like this be able to do heat shrink (I'm not familiar with HS - I've always been a tape guy) IOwnCalculus posted:Honestly I'd crimp every time in this scenario. I can do a decent solder joint on a workbench with loads of light and tools to help hold poo poo. Under a hood / dash of a car? gently caress that. A good ratcheting crimper with good crimps (bonus points for heat-shrinking crimps) will do a repeatable good job with a fraction of the effort. Crimping has a bad image in my mind due to too much PO fuckery. But I am willing to be convinced. Any brands/type of ratcheting crimpers recommended?
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 22:32
|
|
|
Yeah that will work for heat shrink, but I usually just use a regular lighter  E: maybe not under the dash I guess, heh
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 00:51
|
|
|
See if you can get additional tips for it. Some of them (Weller, I think, among others) will come with some sort of catalyst thing that will give off flameless heat for doing heatshrink or similar.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 01:01
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 09:19 |
|
|
Is there anything to consider when buying a shop-vac other than price and capacity? I've got a baby one with like a 1.5" hose, but it's constantly clogging, so I want something serious with a hose I could stick a large child's arm through.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 01:32
|
|