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My brother and I have inherited a car that has been sitting for 15+ years and is full of dead mice and their piss/poo poo. We can't afford to have it cleaned professionally so we're gearing it up to tackle it ourselves, we already have Tyvek suits and full face respirators with the appropriate filters but I'm trying to figure out what to use to clean and disinfect the car. I know bleach will ruin whatever it touches, so is there something we can use that won't damage the car or should we just budget for a full restoration of the interior?
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# ? Sep 14, 2016 05:00 |
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# ? Apr 26, 2024 09:41 |
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Do you have an air compressor available, or can you get to one? I would open all 4 doors/trunk/hood and start by using an air hose attachment to blow all the poo poo and debris out of the ride. You might be surprised at the power available from a good air compressor. That will take care of a lot of the manual labor you'd be forced to do removing it otherwise. I would then just use a full bucket of industrial grade soap and soak that interior down, and follow with a wipe. You can go into serious detailing efforts after that, but you'll have removed a lot of the damage already after the soap/wipe-down. All the hazmat suit stuff is probably unnecessary is you just blow it out first.
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# ? Sep 16, 2016 02:10 |
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OneStopShop posted:My brother and I have inherited a car that has been sitting for 15+ years and is full of dead mice and their piss/poo poo. I'd remove everything in the interior and spray the carpet at a pay and spray if you can, then scrub down the seats and whatever else.
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# ? Sep 16, 2016 02:43 |
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Just got an email from The Rag Company, they are having a pretty awesome sale on their orange/black october themed towels. Coupon code OCTOBER for additional 20% off. Figured the detailing thread could always use some great, cheap, microfibers. http://www.theragcompany.com/oktoberfest-sale/ Highly suggest the Creature Edgeless(420GSM), Electrum 420(420GSM, the peach ones are like $1.55 with the sale which is incredible) from the China microfiber options. From the Korean microfiber options, my personal favorites, highly suggest the Eagle Edgeless(480GSM) and the Niteryder(365GSM). Not sure how everyone else feels about microfibers, but I really like the stuff that's anywhere from about 350-500 GSM. Once you start getting into the 600-800-1100 type stuff, regardless of how soft and amazing they feel, it just feels like they don't work quite as well for my needs. Anything lower I typically use for the plastic parts/interiors and wheels and engine bay. At this point I've bought so much microfiber that I'm just cycling out the older stuff/heavily used/cheaper stuff and just using my nicer 350-450GSM towels for most of those purposes as well.
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# ? Oct 13, 2016 00:33 |
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Question: Best ozone generator for the price on Amazon? Not wanting to spend like $200 for something I may only use a couple times, but if it justifiable, then 'eh.
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# ? Oct 16, 2016 03:36 |
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Would ozone help to disinfect an interior from rodent piss/poo poo? I mean after the chunks are gone
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# ? Oct 16, 2016 15:26 |
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A claybar and orbital polisher appeared at the M3 Corral today
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# ? Oct 17, 2016 00:28 |
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No pics but I washed, clayed, and buffed out some scratches on my new-to-me car yesterday. All in all about 5 hours of that, but hot drat it looks about perfect now. All of the little scratches are gone or are vastly reduced, and it was loving easy mode using Ultimate Compound and a 7424xp. Seriously, it feels like cheating. Next is sealant and then I'll move on to the interior.
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# ? Oct 24, 2016 14:52 |
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I don't want to do paint correction, just want to speed up my waxing - is the Porter Cable still recommended, or is there something less expensive that will get the job done? Also will that double as a sander for wood and stuff? FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Nov 22, 2016 |
# ? Nov 22, 2016 20:15 |
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I picked up the cheap HF random orbital when it was $49, seems fine enough so far - I still use my rotary for heavy corrections because it's so easy, but the random orbital is super nice for finishing
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# ? Nov 22, 2016 20:43 |
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How would you deal with mismatched spots of touchup paint from a PO? Not my car, but a hypothetical. Not sure how long it's been on there. Supposedly a few like those.
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# ? Dec 14, 2016 06:48 |
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Scratch stick and retouch.
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# ? Dec 14, 2016 07:02 |
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Are they actually mismatched, or just "meh, that'll do" blobs? Wet sand and compound/polish, see how they look then, Sometimes I find it was a good colour match, just shittily done.
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# ? Dec 14, 2016 20:21 |
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Do ozone generators remove human pee smells? ...it's a long story.
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# ? Dec 14, 2016 20:26 |
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scuz posted:Do ozone generators remove human pee smells? Depends on their diet.
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# ? Dec 14, 2016 20:49 |
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RIP Paul Walker posted:Depends on their diet. The only reason I ask is because I've read it both ways (that ozone removes pee smell and that it doesn't) so I'm hoping that y'all've tried this before.
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# ? Dec 14, 2016 20:50 |
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Is griots 3in1 leather lotion good enough for basic leather care, or should I invest in a proper cleaner and conditioner? Because god drat griots smells amazing compared to lexol or superior's stuff.
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# ? Dec 14, 2016 21:04 |
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InitialDave posted:Are they actually mismatched, or just "meh, that'll do" blobs? I second this. It does look like it's actually a match, just reflecting weird because of the lazy fix.
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# ? Dec 14, 2016 21:22 |
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scuz posted:Omnivorous. I was serious, it depends on their diet. Only one way to find out... They also said it gets mold gone, and it didn't do as good of a job as I'd have hoped, so if they're a disgusting drunk that eats nothing but McDonalds and drinks nothing but soda, you're hosed.
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# ? Dec 14, 2016 21:27 |
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So I bought some Furniture Clinic Heavy Filler (https://www.furnitureclinic.co.uk/Heavy_Filler.php) to fix a hole in my driver's side seat bolster. I applied a couple of layers about a week and a half ago and then went away on business, and have come back to find that the filler has begun to harden inside the tub; it currently has a toothpaste-like consistency rather than the cream-like one it had when I first opened it. I would like to add a couple more layers before I dye and seal it, so I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with this stuff and knows if it's possible to restore it back to how it was, or failing that whether I can apply it as it currently is? I tested it a bit in its current form and while it seems alright to use, I'm worried that itll do something weird as it continues to dry.
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# ? Dec 15, 2016 23:15 |
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Hey guys as a total newbie what's the laziest method to fix a small but fairly deep scratch? Something that'll get me 90% of the way there without spending hours at it. Here's a few photos of what I'm trying to fix:
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# ? Dec 29, 2016 03:07 |
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How deep? It's a bit over simplified, but as a general rule - if it catches your finger nail, it's probbly too deep to buff out. First step should be to clean and asses the damage. Then maybe try buffing out the more shallow stuff and see what you are left with. In general machines are better and safer to use, but if you are doing this in a parking lot that won't really be an option. You could try to handbuff using something like Meguiar's Ultimate Compound.
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# ? Dec 29, 2016 08:33 |
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Short answer is touch in with a matching paint, wetsand with very fine grit, then compound/polish. If it's a metallic, you'll never get it truly perfect, but you can likely get it to the point where someone wouldn't actively notice unless you told them it was there.
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# ? Dec 29, 2016 13:28 |
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InitialDave was right, touch-up is the best response to most of what you showed. The scratch below the Jaaaaaag emblem may buff out a bit, but it looks deep enough that it's going to remain, but it can be minimized. The other parts are chips, not scratches and they can only be filled to blend.
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# ? Dec 29, 2016 14:32 |
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MrOnBicycle posted:How deep? It's a bit over simplified, but as a general rule - if it catches your finger nail, it's probbly too deep to buff out. The scratch below the emblem looks deep enough to have gone into the base coat. The chip on the hood seems to have mostly penetrated the top clear coat, with only the center portion damaging the actual paint. In terms of depth the hood chip is actually deeper, but the clear coat/paint there seems especially thick compared to the rest of the car. InitialDave posted:Short answer is touch in with a matching paint, wetsand with very fine grit, then compound/polish. I've been looking up youtube tutorials but they haven't been all that helpful. So basically what I need to do is clean it, then dab a little paint on it, wait for it to dry, smooth with a wet sanding liquid+foam sanding block, and then...apply a layer of clear coat? Do you guys have recommendations for what materials to use? I got the touch up paint in a little bottle from my dealer already. Thanks! And yeah the paint is metallic, my car is in this really high gloss metallic black that highlights every little imperfection. Gamesguy fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Dec 29, 2016 |
# ? Dec 29, 2016 21:20 |
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I didn't know Mr. Larry had so many touchup videos but he does. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xi3xmeO6C4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5QAjWbx03s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2aC_oseMe4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uDWWtk-XVtQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xi3xmeO6C4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cdsw4-8Wy0
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# ? Dec 29, 2016 22:27 |
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Gamesguy posted:The scratch below the emblem looks deep enough to have gone into the base coat. The chip on the hood seems to have mostly penetrated the top clear coat, with only the center portion damaging the actual paint. In terms of depth the hood chip is actually deeper, but the clear coat/paint there seems especially thick compared to the rest of the car. In that case, I'd go with the videos in the post above me. Larry's the man.
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# ? Dec 30, 2016 14:34 |
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This is probably common knowledge around these parts but after struggling with waterspots all over my old 540 windows that normal glass cleaner, clay bar, polish and even a razor blade couldn't touch I used Bar Keepers Friend and water on a DA with an old trashed pad. poo poo works crazy well. I think a can of Bar Keeps is like a dollar too so not a huge investment. The pictures are poo poo but it does look way better in real life.
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# ? Dec 30, 2016 17:14 |
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Nice I have spots like that too that have been just as stubborn.
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# ? Dec 30, 2016 17:28 |
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For water spots I have Duragloss 755 that works really well too. I didn't use a DA, I just applied it by hand like rain-x.
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# ? Dec 30, 2016 17:50 |
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Yesterday I picked up a Mytee HD60 carpet/upholstery cleaner made primarily for car detailing. Bonus is that it came with three attachments, one of them a full-length wide one for use on regular carpets. Works loving tits and I got it for $230. One of my best craigslist buys ever. It''s the first model, so it's green instead of the newer bright blue, but still made within the past 4 years. http://www.autogeek.net/mytee-hp60-spyder-carpet-extractor.html
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# ? Feb 13, 2017 14:29 |
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meatpimp posted:Yesterday I picked up a Mytee HD60 carpet/upholstery cleaner made primarily for car detailing. Bonus is that it came with three attachments, one of them a full-length wide one for use on regular carpets. Works loving tits and I got it for $230. One of my best craigslist buys ever. It''s the first model, so it's green instead of the newer bright blue, but still made within the past 4 years. You motherfucker...
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# ? Feb 14, 2017 05:34 |
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drat meatpimp nice find, I wonder if the seller knew what he had. Anyone know what the best wheel cleaner is for "chrome" alloys? I'm having a way harder time getting brake dust off these things than painted alloys, it's like the poo poo is soaking into the "chrome" if that makes any sense. God i hate these loving wheels.
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# ? Feb 14, 2017 06:25 |
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So apparently 303 is releasing more of an automotive line. They had a rep at the o'reillys managers conference and my boss chatted him up for a bit. Off the top of my head, there is a specific interior detailer, protectant for convertible tops and a 3 in 1 leather cleaner.
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# ? Feb 14, 2017 08:06 |
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Is gtechnich c5 the poo poo I should be protecting my BBS' with?
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# ? Feb 14, 2017 20:50 |
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I was looking at getting an Audi with red leather seats but I was at the autoshow on Friday and noticed that the cars with red seats had a ton of blue staining on them from jeans. Is there an effective way to prevent this (other than not wearing jeans) or at least an easy way to clean it off?
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# ? Feb 21, 2017 06:21 |
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Mr. Apollo posted:I was looking at getting an Audi with red leather seats but I was at the autoshow on Friday and noticed that the cars with red seats had a ton of blue staining on them from jeans. Is there an effective way to prevent this (other than not wearing jeans) or at least an easy way to clean it off? I used AutoGlym leather cleaner to clean jeans stains off cream white Volvo leather seats. Works great and usually wipes off straight away. There is stuff like GTechniq L1 leather guard, but I have no experience with those products. I might give them a go when it's time to detail that car again.
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# ? Feb 21, 2017 18:45 |
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Thanks to the psycho who totaled my Scion, I got my first ever brand new car about three months ago. I've been keeping it clean with self-wash bays, no brushes or anything like that, but spent the last three days cleaning out and setting up my walled-in carport area to give me a place to do some honest-to-god detailing. I bit the bullet and bought the AMMO stuff to give it a try; the price seemed way out there but I considered the markup payment for the number of times I've watched the guy's YouTube videos on handling different situations. Holy poo poo, you guys. I wish I did this sooner, the car looks loving amazing. There are a couple of surface areas that I can certainly do better on and will probably post questions about later, but I'm definitely hooked. For what it's worth, I don't think it's due to the AMMO NYC stuff necessarily but rather that it's the first real time I've done everything right. I look forward to experimenting with other products to see how things stack up. The Plum wheel cleaner is basically Sonax with an added scent, for instance.
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# ? Feb 22, 2017 20:08 |
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H2SO4 posted:
This had been my experience as well. Keep us posted on your product trials, I love reading those posts in this thread.
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# ? Feb 22, 2017 20:35 |
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# ? Apr 26, 2024 09:41 |
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What's the best approach for wood trim? As far as I know it's coated in a thick layer of poly finish, so any decent product for interior plastics should work? Maybe I should polish and wax it.
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# ? Feb 23, 2017 02:55 |