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Rabid Snake posted:http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/samsung-960-evo-nvme-ssd-review,4802-2.html Looks like it's just something goofy in Samsung's driver compared to Microsoft? Some aggressive settings or something.
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Feb 13, 2017 21:24
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Bob Morales posted:Looks like it's just something goofy in Samsung's driver compared to Microsoft? Some aggressive settings or something. Yes, with 960 EVO with the default Microsoft driver (you can also tell with the SM961, which doesn't work with the Samsung drivers) the battery life is fine. I'll do a quick write up next week once I get my laptop to confirm these facts. I'll check the difference between performance from the Microsoft drivers and the Samsung drivers too.
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Feb 13, 2017 21:57
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I'm in a bit an odd situation, I finally can get an SSD drive. The problem is that my C drive which has my Win10 install was never partitioned (and was just a standard 1tb HD) and my other HD doesn't have enough space to take all the data from my C drive (which includes a lot of stuff I don't want to risk losing), by a huge amount. So do I just need to get a another standard 1tb hard drive along with the SSD so I can clone my C drive? All I want to do is move the OS to the SSD, but there doesn't seem to be a way to do that; that doesn't involve cloning the whole C drive. I take it there isn't a way to partition the OS from the rest of the C drive now is there?
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Feb 13, 2017 23:04
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MazelTovCocktail posted:I'm in a bit an odd situation, I finally can get an SSD drive. The problem is that my C drive which has my Win10 install was never partitioned (and was just a standard 1tb HD) and my other HD doesn't have enough space to take all the data from my C drive (which includes a lot of stuff I don't want to risk losing), by a huge amount. So do I just need to get a another standard 1tb hard drive along with the SSD so I can clone my C drive? All I want to do is move the OS to the SSD, but there doesn't seem to be a way to do that; that doesn't involve cloning the whole C drive. I take it there isn't a way to partition the OS from the rest of the C drive now is there? Just directly clone your C drive over to the SSD by having them both plugged in at the same time. That's the normal way to do it. If you're getting an SSD smaller than 1TB, you can shrink your volume from Windows Disk Management. Move/copy the "stuff" you don't want to risk losing onto your other hard drive. Important files should always be backed up anyways.
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Feb 13, 2017 23:17
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Lolcano Eruption posted:Just directly clone your C drive over to the SSD by having them both plugged in at the same time. That's the normal way to do it. If you're getting an SSD smaller than 1TB, you can shrink your volume from Windows Disk Management. The problem is the other hard drive is pretty much filled to the brim. I was thinking couldn't I just do a fresh install of WIn 10 onto the SSD and then (how I don't exactly know) remove the older Windows install. It's mostly me trying to find a work around and not having to buy another standard HD just to transfer my OS to the SSD.
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Feb 13, 2017 23:29
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MazelTovCocktail posted:The problem is the other hard drive is pretty much filled to the brim. I was thinking couldn't I just do a fresh install of WIn 10 onto the SSD and then (how I don't exactly know) remove the older Windows install. Yeah, you can just install Windows onto the SSD and leave the old drive connected as a data drive. I'd recommend disconnecting the old drive while you install Windows on the new one though just to make sure you don't accidentally wipe or otherwise mess with the old drive during the installation process. Once you're sure the new drive boots properly and you can read the old one you can clean up all the Windows stuff from the old drive.
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Feb 14, 2017 03:06
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pairofdimes posted:Yeah, you can just install Windows onto the SSD and leave the old drive connected as a data drive. I'd recommend disconnecting the old drive while you install Windows on the new one though just to make sure you don't accidentally wipe or otherwise mess with the old drive during the installation process. Once you're sure the new drive boots properly and you can read the old one you can clean up all the Windows stuff from the old drive. Thanks, I'm doing that now and it seems to be working okay (still installing windows). I made sure to disconnect my other two hard drives. Quick question does an SSD really need a tray if it's not moving around much (it's not sitting on top of anything generating heat)? I do plan to get one it's just I forgot to pick it up when I got the drive tonight. I figure for a few days it should be fine, right? Also what should be the procedure for reattaching the other hard drives? Once windows is done and I do a shut down and startup test? Edit: Okay added the old windows hd back and no problem so far except trying to figure out how to get programs back on the start menu. Any suggestions? Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 05:12 on Feb 14, 2017 |
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Feb 14, 2017 04:30
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No, you don't really need an SSD tray. For example, both of my SSDs have been sitting loose in the bottom of my case for months because I don't want to insert the middle drive cage just for them.
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Feb 14, 2017 06:04
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MazelTovCocktail posted:Okay added the old windows hd back and no problem so far except trying to figure out how to get programs back on the start menu. Any suggestions?
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Feb 14, 2017 06:28
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MazelTovCocktail posted:Okay added the old windows hd back and no problem so far except trying to figure out how to get programs back on the start menu. Any suggestions? If you mean using the programs that were installed on the old drive, that's not going to work for most of them because they will be missing registry info, data in your user profile, and shared libraries. In general it's going to be better to just reinstall anything you need. If you have installed games from Steam you can point Steam at the old directory, or move the data to your new Steam directory.
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Feb 14, 2017 06:56
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Yeah uh, isnt the thing to do here remove stuff til it fits, then clone the drive over?
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Feb 14, 2017 08:37
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Synthbuttrange posted:Yeah uh, isnt the thing to do here remove stuff til it fits, then clone the drive over? 
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Feb 14, 2017 08:44
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Perhaps they should look into scheduling regular back-ups?
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Feb 14, 2017 09:23
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First I just wanted to say that I thought SSD was a little hype, but jesus christ my computer starts up and fully loads into Windows in 30 seconds, down from ~8 minutes (never really timed it). Also it's good to know I don't really need a tray for it. Second, I should clarify that I did backup my important documents (work files), I meant more along with copying data and settings back over to a new installations of say chrome. The cloning of the hard drive wasn't possible due to lacking a suitable amount of free space to do a clone, even a dramatically paired down one. Literally I had 20 gb free on it. Besides having a fresh restart is kind of nice. Also I'll be honest my data backup habits....are kind of awful. That said even with having to redo installations and move data around, the gain from an SSD is so hugely positive it's almost comical. I just can't wait till prices keep coming down and I can just phase out regular hard drives. Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Feb 14, 2017 |
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Feb 14, 2017 15:33
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may I use your testimonial in the OP
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Feb 14, 2017 15:44
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Also holy balls the nvme market has exploded in a good way. There's way more hardware that can be recommended at least at home/budget levels.
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Feb 14, 2017 15:45
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Potato Salad posted:may I use your testimonial in the OP Hell yeah. I'm just amazed how much it improved my old rear end 2011 build using sata was nvme. I mean I dumped 16 gb of ram on top of 8 yesterday (more expecting the 8 not to work with the 16gb and being pleasantly surprised), but without a doubt the SSD gain is one of the only times something promised by a tech has truly 100% delivered. Kind of wish I had gotten more than 250...but eh have to start somewhere. Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Feb 14, 2017 |
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Feb 14, 2017 15:46
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MazelTovCocktail posted:First I just wanted to say that I thought SSD was a little hype, but jesus christ my computer starts up and fully loads into Windows in 30 seconds, down from ~8 minutes (never really timed it). Also it's good to know I don't really need a tray for it. It was fricking awesome when I swapped to SSD in 2009, it must literally be blowing your mind to transition over now in 2017.
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Feb 14, 2017 15:53
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GRINDCORE MEGGIDO posted:It was fricking awesome when I swapped to SSD in 2009, it must literally be blowing your mind to transition over now in 2017. Around 11PM last night I just blurted out "holy loving poo poo" I mean it was just ridiculous. I really want to test out Battlefield 1 on it or some game that I've had slow loading on before. Granted it would be more of a test as I don't plan on keeping any games on it that are not regularly being played (or have small footprints say like a paradox game...well ignoring mods) since with EA games...they would take up a good 20% of the HD.
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Feb 14, 2017 16:03
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Should get updated hardware. With UEFI fast boot, just a couple of seconds to the login screen (with Windows 10 anyway), and just a couple more after logging in.
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Feb 14, 2017 16:12
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MazelTovCocktail posted:Around 11PM last night I just blurted out "holy loving poo poo" I mean it was just ridiculous. I really want to test out Battlefield 1 on it or some game that I've had slow loading on before. Granted it would be more of a test as I don't plan on keeping any games on it that are not regularly being played (or have small footprints say like a paradox game...well ignoring mods) since with EA games...they would take up a good 20% of the HD. It's like a new machine from the future feeling, isn't it? Thanks for being super happy about it as I'm now reliving that vicariously. Some goons recommended 1TB SSD's a few pages back in the thread that might be of interest for ditching any remaining spinners. I was considering this but instead pruned the poo poo out of my files spinner disk, and the contents can fit happily on a 256GB SSD now (which I already have), with much of it on the cloud instead.
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Feb 14, 2017 16:16
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GRINDCORE MEGGIDO posted:Some goons recommended 1TB SSD's a few pages back in the thread that might be of interest for ditching any remaining spinners. I don't mind spinning rust for media files: video, music, etc. Those files don't need super fast transfer rates/seek times, as even the most maxed-out 4K video is about 10 megabytes a second, which can easily be handled by a HDD made in the last 10 years. The $/GB for SSDs, though getting better and better, still doesn't make sense for a TB+ of media files. I have been thinking about a small (256-500GB) SSD in addition to the SSD the OS lives on for anything data related. I could move source code, Windows user profile, and any programs that don't care over to that drive. I doubt it would make all that much difference, however. I don't think most of my reads off the C: SSD are maxing it out, except during obvious operations like file copies.
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Feb 14, 2017 16:48
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Potato Salad posted:Also holy balls the nvme market has exploded in a good way. There's way more hardware that can be recommended at least at home/budget levels. Not at the 1TB level :-(
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Feb 14, 2017 16:55
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GRINDCORE MEGGIDO posted:It's like a new machine from the future feeling, isn't it? Thanks for being super happy about it as I'm now reliving that vicariously. Yeah, I feel like I should have Tom Selleck narrating about it. Once question is there anyway to port over my old chrome settings and files to the new chrome installation? I tried moving over the user data, but it doesn't seem to do anything. It wouldn't really be the end of the world, but I'd really like to migrate that over if possible. Everything else I could live with going year zero on (since the important docs are safe anyway). EDIT: Eh I think it's a lost cause, oh well. At least I didn't lose any real data. Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Feb 14, 2017 |
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Feb 14, 2017 16:59
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Of all that drives I've gotten I've never once actually cloned the drive. Which is funny cause I have imaged thousands of computers at this point for work in many different ways but if you told me "clone that HDD to that SSD in Windows" id be like "hm let me google that". Windows installs so fast now and internet speeds are so ridiculous I just prefer a clean install every time anyway. I may never clone a drive like that
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Feb 14, 2017 17:06
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1gnoirents posted:Of all that drives I've gotten I've never once actually cloned the drive. Which is funny cause I have imaged thousands of computers at this point for work in many different ways but if you told me "clone that HDD to that SSD in Windows" id be like "hm let me google that". Windows installs so fast now and internet speeds are so ridiculous I just prefer a clean install every time anyway. I may never clone a drive like that Yeah, that's kind of what I wanted to do, especially since my old drive...was well filled to the brim with crap.
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Feb 14, 2017 17:10
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Potato Salad posted:may I use your testimonial in the OP What will it say? "If your computer takes ~8 mins to boot, ignore any other fundamental problems your system may have and buy an SSD" ?!
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Feb 14, 2017 18:35
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MazelTovCocktail posted:Yeah, I feel like I should have Tom Selleck narrating about it. Did you copy the user data from the old drive, should be a path something like file:///OLDDRIVELETTER:/Users/GRINDCORE/AppData/Local/Google/Chrome/User%20Data/Default/ To the new drive here - %LOCALAPPDATA%\Google\Chrome\User Data\ I've not tried it but I thought that was all there was. O/wise If you can still boot from the old hard drive you should be able to boot from it, then sync everything to your google account, then boot from the new hard drive and sync that as well. In Chrome. B-Nasty posted:I have been thinking about a small (256-500GB) SSD in addition to the SSD the OS lives on for anything data related. I could move source code, Windows user profile, and any programs that don't care over to that drive. I doubt it would make all that much difference, however. I don't think most of my reads off the C: SSD are maxing it out, except during obvious operations like file copies. Same here, I just want to use a small secondary SSD for project files and the like, and Steam Backups. Infact reinstalling Steam backups is the only time I notice the speed being low on the spinner I'm currently using. I'd really just like a 2TB NVME drive but hahaha yea buying my wife flowers wouldn't help with that purchase. GRINDCORE MEGGIDO fucked around with this message at 18:53 on Feb 14, 2017 |
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Feb 14, 2017 18:43
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Dead Goon posted:What will it say? It would not be incorrect. GRINDCORE MEGGIDO posted:Did you copy the user data from the old drive, should be a path something like  Not sure if it's even worth the effort to hook it up and try resyncing it, but I might give it a try tonight. It does seem like my passwords are working again though.
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Feb 14, 2017 19:28
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Sorry to double post. I had to figure out why my spinners were making noise (vibration caused by where I put them). To test my rearranging I had to turn my computer on and off like 4 or 5 times. I love my SSD.  I also think boot up is actually 20 seconds vs 30 seconds.
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Feb 15, 2017 16:26
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Magician grabbed a firmware update for the 950 pro. I got excited because I thought maybe they finally got around to adding eDrive/TCG Opal support, but no such luck. It's not on the site yet so there's no changelog, I have no idea what it actually does. Also the UI on the new version of Magician is garbage. They must have turned the TouchWiz team loose on it or something.
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Feb 16, 2017 03:25
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What are the options for SSD performance levels with small form factor USB 3 devices. I want to be able to expand the storage on my 2013 MBP with a 128-256 external SSD and am fine with USB 3 speeds, but I'm having trouble finding a good option. I got a cheap Sandisk Ultra Fit 128 drive but it is just way too slow, for what I want to use it for, it heats up to finger-searing temperatures very quickly and throttles way down. I considered using an M.2 SATA drive in one of those enclosures, but I plan on doing a lot of read-writes and none of them seem to support TRIM. Is there a good option out there for an M.2 enclosure that isn't apparent on Amazon and isn't the size of a desktop-class external drive? There are some options like the Mushkin Ventura drives which seem to be more SSD-like flash in a large USB-stick format which also seem like a good option, but that particular line seems to have a lot of problems. Searching for this is tricky because you end up with lots of articles talking about fast USB3 flash drives like the Ultra Fit I have, but I definitely need more sustained performance than those are capable of.
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Feb 16, 2017 17:58
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OnceIWasAnOstrich posted:What are the options for SSD performance levels with small form factor USB 3 devices. I want to be able to expand the storage on my 2013 MBP with a 128-256 external SSD and am fine with USB 3 speeds, but I'm having trouble finding a good option. I got a cheap Sandisk Ultra Fit 128 drive but it is just way too slow, for what I want to use it for, it heats up to finger-searing temperatures very quickly and throttles way down. I considered using an M.2 SATA drive in one of those enclosures, but I plan on doing a lot of read-writes and none of them seem to support TRIM. Is there a good option out there for an M.2 enclosure that isn't apparent on Amazon and isn't the size of a desktop-class external drive? There are some options like the Mushkin Ventura drives which seem to be more SSD-like flash in a large USB-stick format which also seem like a good option, but that particular line seems to have a lot of problems. Searching for this is tricky because you end up with lots of articles talking about fast USB3 flash drives like the Ultra Fit I have, but I definitely need more sustained performance than those are capable of. I'd still go this route instead: https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-SDCZ880-256G-G46-Extreme-256GB-Solid/dp/B01MU8TZRV/ An ultra fit is not fast. They're okay for something very small that you stick in and don't bother removing, but if you want real speed in a stick without going to a larger removable drive then that above option should do you fine, and they do it in 128 and 256GB sizes.
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Feb 16, 2017 18:25
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Those tiny USB drives just don't match up to even a mechanical HD. Probably your best hope is something like Samsungs USB 3.0 SSD is the smallest while also being fast as hell. https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-T3-P...samsung+usb+ssd
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Feb 16, 2017 21:52
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Is a 2.5" enclosure with a sata ssd in it too large, physically?
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Feb 17, 2017 00:41
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Well, poop. I messaged MyDigitalSSD to see when their 960GB BPX NVMe part was going to be released and got this response:quote:I just got word that because of the severe flash shortage we're in, we may never see a 1TB. Sorry.
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Feb 17, 2017 21:35
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So maybe dumb question, I replaced my 5 year old Crucial M4 with a bigger SSD. I know SSD technology has continue to mature over the years, anyone have any sense if there's much life left on that M4? I know I've seen 10+ year endurance lifetimes kicked around for newer gear, any more definitive answers on the older stuff? Basically just trying to figure out if it's worth giving to someone (and not handing them a ticking time bomb) vs just secure erasing/recycling.
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Feb 19, 2017 18:45
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Maneki Neko posted:So maybe dumb question, I replaced my 5 year old Crucial M4 with a bigger SSD. I know SSD technology has continue to mature over the years, anyone have any sense if there's much life left on that M4? I know I've seen 10+ year endurance lifetimes kicked around for newer gear, any more definitive answers on the older stuff? Run something like Crystal Disk Info and look at the Wear Level Indicator metric. It counts down from 100 to 0 and supposedly around 10 is where the drive should start telling Windows it is bad. http://crystalmark.info/software/CrystalDiskInfo/index-e.html
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Feb 19, 2017 18:56
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Crucial M4s also have a "Percent Lifetime Used" metric which is easier to interpret.
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Feb 19, 2017 18:57
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Is steady-state something that every drive will reach eventually (I guess like some kind of burn in) or does it require long enough uninterrupted usage after which it will return to "normal" (non-steady-state?)? I'm trying to understand if tests using speeds reached in steady-state are of any consequence for regular consumer workload.
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Feb 23, 2017 14:02
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