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Finished making some palm trees for my desert board using StrikingScorpion82's guide and I think they turned out alright. Maybe a little big but I wanted them to be easy to reach under.   Hoping these will really fill out the board and some more variety to it. We are playing Friday so I'll find out then.
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Feb 14, 2017 01:16
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Found this tutorial on making chain link fences in (HO scale). The method could be adjusted easily enough to fit other scales; his channel has a lot of other good terrain tutorials. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_guMOYoCpw
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Feb 14, 2017 09:51
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Those palm trees look awesome JITC, I may do something similar for the new Frostgrave game. They look like they will be quite fragile though, how are you going to store them?
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Feb 14, 2017 09:56
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No Pun Intended posted:Found this tutorial on making chain link fences in (HO scale). The method could be adjusted easily enough to fit other scales; his channel has a lot of other good terrain tutorials. Good tutorial, but the way he pronounces solder is driving me up the wall.
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Feb 14, 2017 10:01
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Floppychop posted:Good tutorial, but the way he pronounces solder is driving me up the wall. With an L sound like a normal person? It's the Americans who make it sound like some sort of weird sex act.
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Feb 14, 2017 10:22
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Floppychop posted:Good tutorial, but the way he pronounces solder is driving me up the wall. He's pronouncing it normally 
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Feb 14, 2017 10:25
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Floppychop posted:Good tutorial, but the way he pronounces solder is driving me up the wall.
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Feb 14, 2017 11:16
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Pierzak posted:What's wrong with it? North American = sod-er Europe = sol-der
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Feb 14, 2017 14:53
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Oh so it's like Aluminium then, where the rest of the world is fine and America can't spell 
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Feb 14, 2017 15:00
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ineptmule posted:Those palm trees look awesome JITC, I may do something similar for the new Frostgrave game. Thanks. They are actually pretty sturdy since the gauge of the wire is pretty thick. The only part that I am worried about is the paper leaves. I dropped them off at my friends place yesterday and we just put them on top of the rest of our terrain.
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Feb 14, 2017 17:18
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What the gently caress are you guys talking about? Of course you pronounce the L. Maybe floppychop is just a bad example of Americans pronouncing things.
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Feb 14, 2017 21:05
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Chance II posted:What the gently caress are you guys talking about? Of course you pronounce the L. Maybe floppychop is just a bad example of Americans pronouncing things. You do, do you? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRLHyUEezvI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrVCkEoY_8M https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqV2xU1fee8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qps9woUGkvI
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Feb 14, 2017 21:14
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Chance II posted:What the gently caress are you guys talking about? Of course you pronounce the L. Maybe floppychop is just a bad example of Americans pronouncing things. I've never heard the "L" pronounced by people that routinely use the word. Even Google backs up my claim 
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Feb 14, 2017 23:06
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-bbYH_akHg
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Feb 14, 2017 23:14
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Floppychop posted:I've never heard the "L" pronounced by people that routinely use the word. Can confirm, this is how I've said it my entire life.
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Feb 14, 2017 23:55
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Whoops my bad! I thought we was talking about clams!
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Feb 15, 2017 00:01
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Gasp! American and English pronunciation is different?! Who'd have thought? My question: is there an easy way to mask the corner joins in laser cut buildings or is it just down to filler and painting?
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Feb 15, 2017 00:20
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Southern Heel posted:Gasp! American and English pronunciation is different?! Who'd have thought? Filler and painting is the easiest, unfortunately. You could try the old excess glue trick and then smoothing it down but wood filler is the best bet imo.
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Feb 15, 2017 00:24
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The etymology of the word solder shows that pronouncing the l is either a modern affectation after the French origin, or (archaic) correct Latin.quote:Modern form in English is a re-Latinization from early 15c. The loss of Latin -l- in that position on the way to Old French is regular, as poudre from pulverem, cou from collum, chaud from calidus. The -l- typically is sounded in British English but not in American, according to OED, but Fowler wrote that solder without the "l" was "The only pronunciation I have ever heard, except from the half-educated to whom spelling is a final court of appeal ..." and was baffled by the OED's statement that it was American. Related: Soldered; soldering. The noun is first attested late 14c. Regardless, pronunciation "rules" are merely codifications of common usage. Enough people pronounce the ell that it is now "correct" because that's actually how language works. e. For reference, Fowler was a British authority on the English language. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Feb 15, 2017 |
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Feb 15, 2017 00:41
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I've never heard anyone not use the L, but I live in the uk 
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Feb 15, 2017 01:50
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Southern Heel posted:Gasp! American and English pronunciation is different?! Who'd have thought? Depending on the scale of the building I have successfully used the plastic corner protectors that you can buy for drywall to act as a new Corner over the finger joints that they use for much of the construction of MDF Terrain.
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Feb 15, 2017 02:52
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ijyt posted:Filler and painting is the easiest, unfortunately. You could try the old excess glue trick and then smoothing it down but wood filler is the best bet imo. Indolent Bastard posted:Depending on the scale of the building I have successfully used the plastic corner protectors that you can buy for drywall to act as a new Corner over the finger joints that they use for much of the construction of MDF Terrain. Thanks chaps - I'm trying to justify to myself that £50 for a dozen generic pitched-roof-four-window-and-door houses is outrageous and I should infact scratchbuild literally everything and although your responses are something I'm definitely going to use on the items I already have, I think to get anything approaching Eastern European/Russian buildings I'm going to have to scratchbuild them and may as well take my time with foamcore.
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Feb 15, 2017 12:07
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spectralent posted:I've never heard anyone not use the L, but I live in the uk I mean practically all of modern English is the result of Gaelic monks transliterating Old German words for French speakers when they quite likely spoke neither very well (if at all). The pronunciation of a "silent" L is pretty much just par for the course.
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Feb 15, 2017 15:08
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Southern Heel posted:Thanks chaps - I'm trying to justify to myself that £50 for a dozen generic pitched-roof-four-window-and-door houses is outrageous and I should infact scratchbuild literally everything and although your responses are something I'm definitely going to use on the items I already have, I think to get anything approaching Eastern European/Russian buildings I'm going to have to scratchbuild them and may as well take my time with foamcore. You'll be able to use that endless tub of woodfiller on your scratch builds too, works well to represent stucco/plaster.
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Feb 15, 2017 15:47
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ijyt posted:You'll be able to use that endless tub of woodfiller on your scratch builds too, works well to represent stucco/plaster. Also really good to model sand/dirt, depending upon the scale you're working at.
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Feb 16, 2017 17:12
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  I made some jungle terrain
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Feb 18, 2017 11:19
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Nice!
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Feb 18, 2017 22:51
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How are the fields at the back of this photo made? I'm going to assume they're door mats sliced up somehow - maybe trimmed with clippers?
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Feb 20, 2017 12:31
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Yep those are definitely door mats, trimmed to give an uneven look.
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Feb 20, 2017 12:49
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This is going to sound like a really stupid question - but trimmed how? I'm not sure I want to risk my hair clippers on that heavy duty stuff!
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Feb 20, 2017 13:19
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Southern Heel posted:This is going to sound like a really stupid question - but trimmed how? I'm not sure I want to risk my hair clippers on that heavy duty stuff! Scissors
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Feb 20, 2017 13:40
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I have seen a method involving a heat gun to change the texture and stop shedding.
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Feb 20, 2017 14:16
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Southern Heel posted:How are the fields at the back of this photo made? I've seen them looking mashed down instead, with maybe a hammer?
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Feb 20, 2017 16:10
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Not a viking posted:
Hitting the green aquarium plants with a light coat of GW or Secret Weapon green wash really helps make them look less cheap FYI. Southern Heel posted:How are the fields at the back of this photo made? Here's a really good and simple tutorial on how to do different fields: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vj4awpvMxng
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Feb 20, 2017 22:08
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It's that time of the month; everything is in 15mm from Forged in BattleNTRabbit posted:
Had a power outage today, and in the pursuit of enough light to paint in I ended up making my Roman village sloppier than I wanted 
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Mar 1, 2017 12:30
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OATH COMPLETE 
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Does anyone have any good files for 3d printed Normandy-style pillboxes or tobruks? I've cruised through a few sites but haven't found much worthwhile.
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Mar 1, 2017 21:08
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Hi, remember me?Bad Munki posted:A little while back, either in this thread or the mini painting thread, someone posted a little video demoing some mdf blocks with magnets in them, for the purpose of modular terrain I think. Well, I decided to rip that idea off unabashedly, and so here's what I've got. Sorry for the handheld footage. The time is soon coming when I'll actually get to use this nonsense, so I'm finally getting around to painting, and will be producing these things en masse. Just thought I'd post a little travelog since this is a small milestone. Start off by dumping a gallon of this black on there. It's made from some garbage bulk acrylic from Hobby Lobby, thinned with some garbage airbrush thinner from the same. It dries glossy like that and doesn't handle being applied thickly very well, but the goal is to get it down in the cracks, and the actual final paints will de-gloss it just fine, so at something like $5 for a pint once it's all prepped for the airbrush, it'll do.  Next, put on a healthy dose of reaper's 09086 Stone Grey.The goal is to get total coverage but neglecting the crevices. They'll get filled a bit, but not completely, it's fine.  Take a moment to consider where I want to go next.  Dump on a ton of GW Agrax Earthshade, wipe off lightly with a paper towel, it'll stain the stones and fill the cracks, but maybe wait until the previous layer has a better chance to dry first, otherwise it'll be a bit rough on that base color. I think this step will actually get tossed in the end, as I made a last-minute addition later on. But there it is anyhow:  Decide it's too dark, apply a roughly 50% coverage of 09292 Bathalion Chitin, doing a xenithal application to get some shadows in there.  At this point, I realized it was really nice out, so I decided to drain and muck out the pool next to my patio.  Taking that disagreeable job as inspiration, I opted to stain the individual stones various natural colors, to look more like worn, grody, naturally quarried stone. This is the most time consuming step, but it actually goes surprisingly fast and I think will allow me to skip the intermediate brown-washing-consuming step, so it'll probably roughly balance out. The color mix on the stones is about 4:4:2:6 Seraphim Sepia:Athonian Camoshade:Nuln Oil:Agrax Earthshade by count. I just work along that list and pick random stones, counting as I go, until I get close to the target number. The last one, the Agrax Earthshade, I just fill in the remainder of the stones, and that was what the count was.  The individual stone washes are the biggest hassle by far, but I think it puts a lot more life on the pieces, so it's probably worth it. I'm not going to add any more steps after this, though, since I now have to produce about a hundred of these things. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 07:02 on Mar 7, 2017 |
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Mar 7, 2017 03:58
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Holy poo poo man
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Mar 7, 2017 19:22
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No way should you use expensive miniature paint at any step of a process that involves making 100 of those things, dude! Switch entirely to cheapo hobby lobby paint, and get some minwax stain for your staining, and you'll save yourself a lot of money. That said, it looks pretty excellent. I'd say make sure you have the occasional two or three stones of the same color together, or the different colored stones will look too uniformly distributed. Lastly, if you want to go one extra mile, I'd suggest you fill in the gaps on the "floor" stones a little bit vs. the "wall" stones. They'd fill with dirt, dust, etc. from being used pretty quickly, so if you want your dungeon to look like it's old & used, the floors should be well-trod. Maybe your first step before starting to paint would be to smear a coat of spackle or putty or whatever across the stones and then wipe with a damp cloth to reveal the stones themselves but still leave the cracks mostly filled?
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Mar 7, 2017 19:36
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Yeah, is just as soon use cheaper bulk paints but honestly, I just haven't found any that fit the bill as well as the purpose-made model paints. I'll be the first to admit I don't know much about various types of acrylics, but so far, everything I've tried just doesn't stand up to those precious bottles of liquid gold. If anyone has any specific brands/types to recommend, I'd happily try them out. 
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Mar 8, 2017 04:30
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