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Sometimes you get a leaky valve in the stem because of crud in public air compressors getting in there, too. Again, soapy water.
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Feb 17, 2017 20:48
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Enourmo posted:03 protege just started flashing the airbag light while driving. It's just a constant repeated series of six flashes. Should I be concerned? I just got a clutch line and slave cylinder replaced, could they have jostled something to cause this? Six flashes (1+5, I assume) means a discontinuity in the driver's side bag. Yes, you should be concerned as it won't work if you get in a crash. 15- drivers side air bag circuit shorted 16- passenger side air bag circuit shorted 19- restraint control module (RCM) memory full 24- restraint control module (RCM) internal fault 25- passenger air bag deactivation (PAD) switch fault 27- passenger air bag deactivation (PAD) warning lamp inoperative 29- Incorrect Vehicle Identification Code 32- driver air bag circuit resistance high 33- passenger air bag circuit resistance high 34- driver air bag circuit resistance low 35- passenger air bag circuit resistance low 43- front impact sensor 46- drivers side seat-belt pretensioner 47- passenger side seat-belt pretensioner
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Feb 17, 2017 21:01
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It's six continuous flashes all the same speed, nothing to indicate that it's 1+5. I've got a video uploading, I'll edit it in later when i'm not on mobile.
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Feb 17, 2017 21:32
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My 95 Celica died while driving last night, and revs dropped to zero (even though it's auto??) This has got to be fueling or spark, right? I'm guessing fuel pump relay or something but didn't have time to check this morning before work. Any ideas? https://youtu.be/hdJxqZo5gTE Vid of me trying to turn it over before getting on my bike
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Feb 17, 2017 23:35
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 I think I know that sound.When's the last time you changed the timing belt? randomidiot fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Feb 17, 2017 |
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Feb 17, 2017 23:45
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Enourmo posted:03 protege just started flashing the airbag light while driving. It's just a constant repeated series of six flashes. Should I be concerned? I just got a clutch line and slave cylinder replaced, could they have jostled something to cause this? Yeah definite cause for concern if it's a daily driver. That blink code means something, and while the light is on the airbag system won't deploy. I did a quick google and it says that a blink group of six means a problem with the driver's side airbag. If your horn and cruise control don't work it could very well be the clock spring. You'll need an srs reader if you want specifics from the airbag computer, so probably take it in.
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Feb 17, 2017 23:46
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:
Is my engine interference? Um I bought the car a week ago and it has had every service on time, but I will check that when I get home... I hope you're wrong Edit : Surely I would have felt or heard something if the engine just ate it's valves.... And I didnt
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Feb 17, 2017 23:53
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Enourmo posted:03 protege just started flashing the airbag light while driving. It's just a constant repeated series of six flashes. Should I be concerned? I just got a clutch line and slave cylinder replaced, could they have jostled something to cause this? Horn and other steering wheel buttons all working OK? Could be a bad clockspring.
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Feb 17, 2017 23:54
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Symptoms are classic worn master cylinder that leaks when hot, but you said you replaced that. Yep. And no signs of fluid or fluid loss. I have found I can reproduce the gnashing sound somewhat reliably by holding the clutch partially in. Does this mean anything relevant? fickle poofterist posted:Is my engine interference? Um I bought the car a week ago and it has had every service on time, but I will check that when I get home... I hope you're wrong You felt it quit abruptly.
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Feb 18, 2017 01:56
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Horn works fine, no other buttons to test (no cruise). Guess I get to slot a shop visit in somewhere, joy of joys.
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Feb 18, 2017 01:58
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Gumbel2Gumbel posted:One thing I've seen work is complaining on their Yelp, BBB, Facebook, and Twitter pages. Also some companies you can Facebook Message and it gets up the chain pretty quickly. I got my girlfriend's power turned on by bitching in Facebook messenger from several states away. Nuclear option: Look up the chain on linked in, and contact the management directly. Thermonuclear option: use the white pages and call them on their home number
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Feb 18, 2017 02:05
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fickle poofterist posted:Is my engine interference? Um I bought the car a week ago and it has had every service on time, but I will check that when I get home... I hope you're wrong I'm not saying it's necessarily the timing belt but when mine went out (taking the engine with it) I didn't hear a thing. I was coasting into a rest area and the engine just suddenly turned off.
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Feb 18, 2017 02:58
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fickle poofterist posted:Is my engine interference? Um I bought the car a week ago and it has had every service on time, but I will check that when I get home... I hope you're wrong I hope I am too, but a friend's similarly aged Celica sounded exactly like that when cranking after the timing belt shuffled off of this mortal coil. I'm almost positive that it's a non-interference engine. And no, all you feel is the sudden loss of power and the tach nosediving to 0 (ignition system gets its signal from the distributor, which is run by the cam[s]), even if the engine is still moving. Followed by the starter sounding like it's cranking a lot faster when you try to restart. On an interference engine, you might hear a few pings or crunches in the second or two following the belt peacing out, but you're usually too busy to figure out what happened to notice the noises. A compression test will tell you if the timing belt decided to leave. That's where I would start. Or hell, if you can see a cam through the oil filler cap, remove the cap, have a friend engage the starter. No movement? There's your answer. If there is movement, do a compression test anyway, the belt may have skipped a tooth. If it's timed properly, move on to ignition. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:36 on Feb 18, 2017 |
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Feb 18, 2017 03:33
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I hope I am too, but a friend's similarly aged Celica sounded exactly like that when cranking after the timing belt shuffled off of this mortal coil. Ah thanks for the oil cap tip that will tell me straight away.... Here's hoping it's not too bad... Edit: assuming it's non interference, the next question is... Is it just a case of replacing the timing belt? lilbeefer fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Feb 18, 2017 |
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Feb 18, 2017 04:17
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IIRC the water pump is driven by the timing belt on that engine, so it wouldn't hurt to do that. Timing belt tensioner and pulley/pullies would be a good idea, so would the front crank seal. Cam seal(s) too. It's very much a case of "replace all of the cheap parts that you can get to while it's apart". Oil and coolant are both terrible for belts in general. If it is the belt, buy a complete timing belt kit; it should include all of that. e: you'll need to re-time the engine as well, which is basically lining up the cam(s) and crank. So long as you don't touch the distributor, you shouldn't have to mess with getting it lined up again.
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Feb 18, 2017 06:29
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I need to empty a cars AC system. It runs R134a. I want to be environmentally responsible and recover the refrigerant (and also because you can't buy it easily/at all? in the UK). Recovery pumps are expensive, but recovery cylinders are cheap (and I need ONE anyway). I have a vacuum pump. Am I a shithead for buying 2 or 3 cylinders, vaccing them down, and using them to suck what I can out of the system, and accepting that I will leave a little bit behind? The method is to do it sequentially, so that once the first cylinder has equalised pressure with the system, you remove it and go again with the second cylinder, etc. Also to note is that I want to leave 1atm of R134a in the system, because I don't want to suck air into the drier when I disconnect the hoses. The drier is in the condenser, and that's another part, so I plan to just seal it up quick/good, then vac the poo poo out of it to boil any moisture out of the dessicant, when it comes time to charge the system.
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Feb 18, 2017 20:01
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Call local shops, you may find one willing to do the evac and recharge for the cost of labor. They recover and reuse the refrigerant, so there's no reason not to do it, unless they want to be pricks. I found it much cheaper to do this a few months ago than to buy the hardware to do it myself.
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Feb 18, 2017 20:55
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My AC was broken and needed a new compressor so I went to a place that had "free ac check" which meant evac the system, check for leaks, refill and check function. It didn't work of course, so they evaced it again to reclaim the coolant. Net result: free evac and a way overpriced quote for fitting a new compressor. I thanked them and will replace the compressor myself, then have them fill it again.
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Feb 19, 2017 00:06
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I thought that they were required to destroy reclaimed refrigerant, as they can't guarantee that it's not contaminated? I will need the R134a for when I program the operation of my trinary switch outputs and AC compressor clutch. Also there is no engine in this car.
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Feb 19, 2017 00:24
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fickle poofterist posted:Ah thanks for the oil cap tip that will tell me straight away.... Here's hoping it's not too bad... Is it the 2200 engine? I just did one of those on a 92 Camry, its non interference, the water pump actually exploded. I put a new water pump, timing belt and all the rollers on it and then like a month later the oil pump started pissing all over the place. If you have the scratch do the belt, pulleys, water pump and oil pump and seals like yu-gi said.
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Feb 19, 2017 01:48
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I need some tire advice. I have some nice tires on my truck, but one of the fronts blew out when I hit some debris. The rears still had plenty of tread, so I ordered two new front tires from Discount Tire direct. Same exact brand and size as the originals on all four wheels. When I went to have them installed today, the Discount Tire gent said that I should rotate the rears to the front and put the new tires on the rear. The new tires have substantially more tread than the rears. I also figured front tires are more stressed than the rears with turning and weight and stuff. I don't haul much. I went with his advice, was this the correct call? (New tires on rear, worn tires rotated to the front)? Make: 2010 Toyota Model: Tundra CrewMax 4x4 SRT, has a moon roof! Engine: V8 4.6L Tires: Hankook Dynapro atm p275/65r18 Garcin fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Feb 19, 2017 |
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Feb 19, 2017 02:18
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You don't want your fronts out braking the rear. It would be difficult in a pickup unless you live somewhere that gets cold.
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Feb 19, 2017 04:23
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I have a 2012 Mazda3 with 205/55/16 tires. This is the first modern car I've ever owned and as such, I am rather overwhelmed by the hundred or so tires available. I'm looking for a set of all seasons with good wet traction and decent tread wear. At least 40-50k miles. What should I get or stay away from?
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Feb 19, 2017 04:39
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Christobevii3 posted:You don't want your fronts out braking the rear. It would be difficult in a pickup unless you live somewhere that gets cold.
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Feb 19, 2017 04:51
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astrollinthepork posted:I have a 2012 Mazda3 with 205/55/16 tires. This is the first modern car I've ever owned and as such, I am rather overwhelmed by the hundred or so tires available. I'm looking for a set of all seasons with good wet traction and decent tread wear. At least 40-50k miles. What should I get or stay away from? Where do you live? 40k on a smaller tire might be hard unless looking at UTG 500-700 rating. Wet you can look at tread lines.
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Feb 19, 2017 05:46
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Pomp and Circumcized posted:I thought that they were required to destroy reclaimed refrigerant, as they can't guarantee that it's not contaminated? This may be a regional thing, but I know they do not do that here. My refrigerant went into a big tank with a bunch of other stuff, and that's what they recharged it with.
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Feb 19, 2017 07:18
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Christobevii3 posted:Where do you live? 40k on a smaller tire might be hard unless looking at UTG 500-700 rating. Wet you can look at tread lines. astrollinthepork fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Oct 28, 2017 |
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Feb 19, 2017 15:02
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Hello everyone, my friend has a 2006 Lexus GS430. He bought it second hand a few years ago and wanted me to ask what the bit with the green arrow does as his mechanic disconnected it after he took it to the shop for repairs, if anyone here can help identify what the part does it would be very helpful. Thanks in advance.
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Feb 19, 2017 16:02
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The Continental DWS might be a good tire then for all season. It is their sporty dry, wet, snow tire. The S will wear to notify they are not recommend for snow anymore. They're utg rated at 560 so won't be monster hard low rolling resistance ones. I had some on my 350z and rode well and wear was long. I'm assuming you want coverage for all weather but if bad have snow tires?
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Feb 19, 2017 16:42
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Azmodaii posted:Hello everyone, my friend has a 2006 Lexus GS430. That is the top of the suspension strut. Apparently that car has 'Adaptive Variable Suspension'. There is a small motor inside that cover that turns to adjust the shock absorber and make it softer or harder as required. why not just ask the mechanic why it was unplugged? was he repairing the suspension and forgot to plug it in? did he replace the struts with some generic ones? was it broken and the mechanic unplugged it to stop it throwing some code or doing something wrong?
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Feb 19, 2017 18:50
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Azmodaii posted:Hello everyone, my friend has a 2006 Lexus GS430. It connects to a motor which adjusts the damping rate of the suspension by turning a thin shaft that runs down the centre of the shock absorber. It's probably based on TEMS: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Electronic_Modulated_Suspension If non-Toyota aftermarket shocks (I don't think any exist for the 2006GS - at least I couldn't find any for mine) were installed pas part of this repair, they may be lacking that feature. If the repair involved work around the area of the connector, it was likely just forgotten about and left unplugged. The car will work fine without it, but the NORMAL/SPORT button won't do anything to that particular corner of the car. The black dome which the arrow is pointing to is just a cover for the motor. On the rears, they are a bayonet fitting. On the front, I forget. Looks like it screws on with a second set of nuts.
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Feb 19, 2017 18:53
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Is there anything I can/should do about what I assume is this rust spot?
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Feb 19, 2017 21:45
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Is hand washing at home worth it compared to a drive thru car wash? Is Nu Finish liquid polish a good enough wax?
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Feb 19, 2017 22:34
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I've never had an automatic car wash do a good job, so yeah it's definitely worth doing at home.
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Feb 19, 2017 23:17
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Josh Lyman posted:Is hand washing at home worth it compared to a drive thru car wash? New/treasured car? Definitely do it at home Beater/company car? Car wash it
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Feb 19, 2017 23:35
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Hello friends! A few days it was raining, and I was in an unfamiliar area with very narrow roads. Thanks to my infinite wisdom and my car's gigantic C-pillars I scraped a dumpster trying to do a U-turn. I've never had to do any body repair out of pocket in the past so I am not sure how much things should cost. The damage is on the passenger side rear fender, dent + paint damage. A Dodge Charger, if that helps. I got a few quotations from a bunch of body shops. I got a quote of $132 from a bodyshop that looks straight out of Fallout New Vegas, so I asked around and found a reputable body shop. Got a $239 quote, haggled it down to $185. Does this sound about right? I'm not in a position to be throwing away money right now so I'd just like to know if it's a fair quote. Yes I'm going to wash the car.   
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Feb 19, 2017 23:37
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If that's dumpster paint on your car, that price sounds reasonable to have someone pop the dent back out and buff the paint. If that's your paint missing from the car, and bare metal showing, it's going to cost a lot more than that to get a big chunk of the car (or all of it) repainted. If they just touch up the paint in that one little spot, you'll notice the difference compared to the paint around it, due to the way the paint slowly changes color with age.
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Feb 19, 2017 23:48
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If I'm not mistaken, I saw some of my car's paint on the dumpster, lol. Is respraying that certain area of the fender really gonna look that off? The car is garaged only 3 months of the year, and it is my daily. But surely a good paintjob will make it look good enough?
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Feb 20, 2017 00:41
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A paint shop could mix paint that closely matches whats on your car, but generally if you want it to look good you need to at least shoot the entire panel the damage is on. If they just fix the scratches and paint only the area in the immediate vicinity of the damage you'll be able to tell from probably 5' away or closer. e: on your car (based on pictures) this would mean the entire quarter panel plus the panel that arcs over top of both doors and next to the windshield before ending under the front fender, from what I can find online this appears to be one continuous piece of metal. If you're not that concerned about the panel looking perfect having them blend the paint in around the damaged area will work as far as preventing the sheet metal from rusting. Geoj fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Feb 20, 2017 |
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Feb 20, 2017 00:47
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I'm guessing there gonna say replace the panel since it's so close to the line of the car and looks like it's dented .
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Feb 20, 2017 02:39
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