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IMO, skip the por15. Go straight to the sherwin williams macro-poxy. Paint will outlast the vise.  How are you planning on de-rusting? I've been very happy with Evapo-rust, but a vinegar or electrolysis process would work well too. Oh and Mobil 222 XHP is amazing for the screw, but Fluid film is a good starting point to loosen things up.
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Feb 28, 2017 17:49
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A media blast would work very well for rust/paint. It's a pretty small part so the cost would be minimal.
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Feb 28, 2017 18:05
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That's my preferred method, if you can get the thing in the cabinet. I've got a 6" *insert 1900's brand here* that's the same size and theres no way I could load it in my top-loading cabinet. A 20 gallon tote suddenly looks a lot more appealing, plus you can do these at home.
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Feb 28, 2017 18:22
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Before you go tearing into it, I'd post pics on garage journal. There's a couple of threads ALL about old vises. Macropoxy is good paint, but takes forever to fully cure.
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Mar 1, 2017 03:58
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Bar keeper's friend (oxalic acid) (wood bleach) is super good for getting rust off of chrome. Just give it a bath for a few hours, the rust just slides off (I know the vise is not chrome but :themoreyouknow: ) CloFan fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Mar 1, 2017 |
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Mar 1, 2017 04:30
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This has probably been shared here already, but my FIL showed me this today and I hadn't seen it before: link
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Mar 1, 2017 04:32
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What exactly is taking the bending load by it being off center like that?
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Mar 1, 2017 05:53
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Seminal Flu posted:I just picked up an e-loving-normoust Reed 106 fixed bench vise. The thing is listed at over 130 pounds, and this is every bit of that. It was a bastard to maneuver through the garage to get on the bench. You spelled 'vise' correctly, that's enough for my approval. I broke the handle off of the lead-screw on a 1980's vintage Craftsman 6" bench vise a few months ago and am super disappointed in the quality. I can't find any real vises local to me.
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Mar 1, 2017 06:09
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I spotted a huge old 4" Morgan vise on a long-forgotten bench in an old cobwebbed basement, down a long flight of narrow stairs at work a couple of years ago. I remembered the handle position, and after a year or so of it not moving the need arose and the vice was relocated. Motherfucker was strongly bolted down and weighed at least ~75lbs. It must have really sucked for the guy who had to haul the filthy thing up those stairs.
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Mar 1, 2017 06:34
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um excuse me posted:What exactly is taking the bending load by it being off center like that? The horizontal leg vs the sliding square tube. Assuming it's steel it looks pretty beefy in that area, remember it's only during lifting and doesn't support any weight after being locked in position.
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Mar 1, 2017 07:17
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I think those are kind of neat. I liked the idea behind Jackpoint as well but this is at least adjustable while I think the jackpoints are fixed. http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/
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Mar 1, 2017 15:25
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CloFan posted:Bar keeper's friend (oxalic acid) (wood bleach) is super good for getting rust off of chrome. Just give it a bath for a few hours, the rust just slides off So does scrubbing with an aluminum foil sheet!  IMHO, leave the original paint and just clean off the rust with some penetrating oil and steel wool. Then grease up the screw mechanism and sliding surfaces, and periodically apply some light oil like wd-40 or CLP to protect it against rust going forward. E: nevermind, on second look that thing is pretty far gone on rust and pitting. Have you considered an electrolysis bath to remove the rust? An angle grinder and wire wheel would be pretty aggressive, but also work as well. Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Mar 2, 2017 |
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Mar 1, 2017 16:29
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angryrobots posted:This has probably been shared here already, but my FIL showed me this today and I hadn't seen it before: This is cool. I could really use just one. On my crooked driveway, supporting a modern car on all 4 jackpoints requires shimming to keep it from tripodding.
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Mar 1, 2017 17:32
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Only problem with that jack is it's a minimum of 11" high. You're not going to lift any cars with that unless you have another jack to get it started and slide under. For trucks that max height is 21" which is kinda small, it couldn't reach the frame rails on my Jeep for example and would be too tall to get under the diffs too. Neat idea if you have something it can work with.
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Mar 1, 2017 19:19
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sharkytm posted:Before you go tearing into it, I'd post pics on garage journal. There's a couple of threads ALL about old vises. Macropoxy is good paint, but takes forever to fully cure. Thanks, made a post there. Made a quick video to show the "before" shape: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIelbuzAnI0 OSU_Matthew posted:So does scrubbing with an aluminum foil sheet! The rust isn't bad except a bit on the mounting ears. I'm kinda leaning towards a nice, glossy black. We'll see where the project goes... meatpimp fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Mar 1, 2017 |
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Mar 1, 2017 20:01
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EVERYWHERE 
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mod sassinator posted:Only problem with that jack is it's a minimum of 11" high. You're not going to lift any cars with that unless you have another jack to get it started and slide under. For trucks that max height is 21" which is kinda small, it couldn't reach the frame rails on my Jeep for example and would be too tall to get under the diffs too. Neat idea if you have something it can work with. Yes absolutely. My FIL bought it to change tires on the large camper he's buying. I think for that it should work pretty well.
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Mar 1, 2017 21:07
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What's everyone's opinions on tool kits specifically to be kept in a vehicle? I have a cheap and nasty HF set in my Jeep but wouldn't mind a better one, and I should probably put one in my C10 too.
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Mar 5, 2017 00:34
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IOwnCalculus posted:What's everyone's opinions on tool kits specifically to be kept in a vehicle? I have a cheap and nasty HF set in my Jeep but wouldn't mind a better one, and I should probably put one in my C10 too. I've recommended it here before, but I got the Costco/Kirkland mechanics tool set for my dedicated jeep kit and it's really nice. On sale right now too. The ratchets have nice action and it's a good mix of 6&12pt sockets. The blowmold case is quite robust too.
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Mar 5, 2017 00:40
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I have the $50 53-piece Craftsman set (an older one that is still USA), and it's been great for a trunk kit. Looks like that Costco set is a better value in terms of bits per dollar, although last time I looked at one at Costco I wasn't impressed by the fit and finish of everything.
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Mar 5, 2017 01:22
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It's taiwaneese crap with no warranty beyond costcos satisfaction or your money back. buy poo poo from a store with a warranty that will replace broken stuff on a piece by piece basis. leave costco for computers and hot dogs.
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Mar 5, 2017 01:32
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I have this Gearwrench set + a breaker bar and four way + some misc pieces in my truck: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...ame=Gear+Wrench
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Mar 5, 2017 01:47
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:I've recommended it here before, but I got the Costco/Kirkland mechanics tool set for my dedicated jeep kit and it's really nice. On sale right now too. The ratchets have nice action and it's a good mix of 6&12pt sockets. The blowmold case is quite robust too. One of these kits was my original tool set, so yeah, very familiar with them. Only annoying thing is how big the case is. No problem in the WJ but no room for that in the C10.
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Mar 5, 2017 01:53
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e:
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Mar 5, 2017 02:25
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So I picked up the fuckoff 18V Fuel Milwaukee Impact, and I don't own any impact sockets. I thought I read once that harbor freight's impact sockets are actually decent? Is that correct? I feel like we need a list of poo poo to get at harbor freight that isn't poo poo, or at least isn't poo poo with a little bit of work. All that I know of for sure is tool chests and hydraulic jacks, and to stay away from electrical and their abrasive consumables.
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Mar 5, 2017 06:22
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Their impact sockets are pretty solid, I bought my set back in 2010 or 11 and aside from the size stamps becoming increasingly difficult to read they haven't given me any trouble. They don't come in an injection molded case anymore though.
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Mar 5, 2017 06:56
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Goons seem to recommend Grey Pneumatic as being a decent option that slots between HF and the big-dollar stuff. I have a set of the older (blow molded case for the deeps, tin case for the shallows) HF sets, and they seem fine in that they haven't blown up on me and they seem to fit alright, but they have a really thick wall so they're not the most convenient sometimes.
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Mar 5, 2017 09:47
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boxen posted:So I picked up the fuckoff 18V Fuel Milwaukee Impact, and I don't own any impact sockets. I thought I read once that harbor freight's impact sockets are actually decent? Is that correct? They are, but only the Pittsburgh Pro versions. The regular Pittsburgh are garbage.
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Mar 5, 2017 13:36
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I would like to hear about decent quality impact sockets as well, but available on the European side of the pond.
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Mar 5, 2017 13:39
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bolind posted:I would like to hear about decent quality impact sockets as well, but available on the European side of the pond. Sunex. They are amazing a good price and probably available across the pond. They are on Amazon and similar in price to grey pneumatic and a little better quality. I know plenty of tractor mechanics who swear by sunex. Also a lot of trans rebuild shops local to me give there employees sunex tools and sockets for work. There good stuff and affordable.
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Mar 5, 2017 15:32
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IOwnCalculus posted:What's everyone's opinions on tool kits specifically to be kept in a vehicle? I have a cheap and nasty HF set in my Jeep but wouldn't mind a better one, and I should probably put one in my C10 too. I just put my whole toolbag in the trunk  This is very much an extreme case of "$1500 in tools makes a $500 car much more reliable", though.
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Mar 5, 2017 16:08
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clam ache posted:Sunex. They are amazing a good price and probably available across the pond. They are on Amazon and similar in price to grey pneumatic and a little better quality. I know plenty of tractor mechanics who swear by sunex. Also a lot of trans rebuild shops local to me give there employees sunex tools and sockets for work. There good stuff and affordable. I did some life testing and what not on a few Sunex grinders about 3-4 years ago as I recall and they didn't seem too bad to me. I never personally tore them down or anything though.
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Mar 5, 2017 18:30
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Apparently the sunex impacts we have for sale at work are rebranded ingersoll rands, so I'd wager they're decent for home shop abuse. vOv
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Mar 5, 2017 18:35
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I've been really happy with the Tekton impact sockets I have fwiw. I also have a sunex impact universal joint adapter and it's been great as well
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Mar 5, 2017 18:49
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Geoj posted:They don't come in an injection molded case anymore though. I bought the HF impact socket sets when they came in metal boxes, I didn't know they changed to plastic, much less bare! And yeah, I've used them a good bit and never had an issue. Protip: a strip of duct tape wrapped around the outside of the socket keeps the socket from scratching/damaging surrounding surfaces (most often wheels).
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Mar 5, 2017 19:06
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TACTICAL SANDALS posted:I've been really happy with the Tekton impact sockets I have fwiw. I also have a sunex impact universal joint adapter and it's been great as well Same, and they are making a few items here in the US as well, but I don't think the sockets are yet.
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Mar 5, 2017 19:31
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Does anyone have any experience with induction bolt heaters? I've been looking at this one https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...23-e75a753c34fe but even the Chinese copys like this one are pretty expensive. Do they stand up to repeated use and does the insulation last? I'm sick of my gas torch not really getting through the rust and oxy isn't an option for home use for me. Not having open flames and little heat spread is a bonus too.
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Mar 5, 2017 20:48
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I had no idea that existed. Probably not a big deal for a bolt, but keep in mind induction heaters have a side effect of often magnetizing the target if they don't have a demag cycle. Was a big problem with the earliest induction heaters for bearings because, as you can imagine, a magnetic bearing is sort of counter productive for lifespan when it's attracting all the poo poo to it. e: Also keep in mind the voltage for your home
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Mar 6, 2017 01:45
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Thanks. I didn't consider that. I dont think i will be reusing hardware that's been heated to red hot much. If its rusty enough to warrant bringing it out its usually far enough gone anyway. Wouldn't heating something to red hot also remove its ability to be magnetized unless you subject it to a magnetic field while its cooling? I'm in Europe so that aliexpress unit is the right plug and voltage for me, and is part of the reason I'm looking at Chinese versions. The 230v export version of the original American tool is ludicrously priced. The amperage shouldn't be a problem either. Some videos for people who hasn't seen one before https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uimEZKrVNO0 and the professional version https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJElT9xK3bk
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Mar 6, 2017 09:09
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IOwnCalculus posted:What's everyone's opinions on tool kits specifically to be kept in a vehicle? I have a cheap and nasty HF set in my Jeep but wouldn't mind a better one, and I should probably put one in my C10 too. That whatever you buy should be considered expendable, considering rust and degradation from not being in a conditioned environment, and it being an easy target for arbitrary theft. I also think it's 100% worthwhile to have a cheap floor jack in the trunk and to just ignore factory included scissor jack
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Mar 6, 2017 16:44
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Humbug posted:Thanks. I didn't consider that. You don't need to heat a bearing red hot to get it on. Maximum swell happens at like 250F, I forget the actual number but it's far below red hot. In fact if you heat one hot enough to change the color to that bluish purple you have ruined the bearing.
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Mar 6, 2017 17:31
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