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Rabid Snake posted:Speaking of delidding, is it worth doing? My i7 6700k won't overclock past 4.4 even at 1.35 voltage without turning off my XMP profile on my RAM (3200MHz) What are your temperatures? If they're holding you back, delidding can be worth -15 degrees under load easily. If you get one of the tools to do it there's not really the danger of attacking your CPU with a vise or razor blade, either.
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Feb 27, 2017 21:24
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Rabid Snake posted:Speaking of delidding, is it worth doing? My i7 6700k won't overclock past 4.4 even at 1.35 voltage without turning off my XMP profile on my RAM (3200MHz) I delided my 6700k. Didn't get a higher overclock on it (4.6 before and after), but it did lower my load temp by about 15 degrees C. I mostly did it so my fans could run a little lower and quieter.
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Feb 27, 2017 23:41
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Lowen SoDium posted:I delided my 6700k. Didn't get a higher overclock on it (4.6 before and after), but it did lower my load temp by about 15 degrees C. I mostly did it so my fans could run a little lower and quieter. Was that on water? I want to delid mine, but continue running it on air. For the exact same reasons you did.
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Feb 28, 2017 00:35
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Higher Memory speed keeping the OC back I would think would require increasing your memory VCCS or whatever you motherboard calls the Memory Controller part of your CPU. I had to bump mine a hair to get rid of all the Memory errors I was getting that I didn't realize i was living on for the past year or so lol. Turns out it was still working ok 95% of the time until that random ram error would cause the PC to flip out under weird loads.
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Feb 28, 2017 01:13
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Is Coffeelake or Iceland expected to bring anything new to the table aside from minor performance gains? It seems like most of us with Sandy Bridge systems will be waiting for Tiger Lake.
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Feb 28, 2017 01:26
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GRINDCORE MEGGIDO posted:Was that on water? I want to delid mine, but continue running it on air. For the exact same reasons you did. Nope, it was with a Noctua nh-d15, which is one of the biggest air coolers you can get.
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Feb 28, 2017 01:55
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Lowen SoDium posted:Nope, it was with a Noctua nh-d15, which is one of the biggest air coolers you can get. OK that's pretty much exactly what I was hoping for. Did you use a shim, or have to change the bolt tension or anything else to mount it, like removing the clamp from the motherboard socket? I have the NH-D14. Sorry for all the questions. GRINDCORE MEGGIDO fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Feb 28, 2017 |
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Feb 28, 2017 02:08
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Tab8715 posted:Is Coffeelake or Iceland expected to bring anything new to the table aside from minor performance gains? Nope. Coffee Lake was supposed to be the next process shrink, but now it's not, so it'll just bring ????. The only thing we know about it for sure is that the Coffee Lake Xeon's are launching ahead of the desktop and mobile parts, and that Kaby Lake Xeons may never appear because of this. I also think that intels 'secret' internal codename poo poo has been hijacked by marketing and it's no longer a worthwhile way to talk about intel processors. :/
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Feb 28, 2017 03:27
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GRINDCORE MEGGIDO posted:OK that's pretty much exactly what I was hoping for. Did you use a shim, or have to change the bolt tension or anything else to mount it, like removing the clamp from the motherboard socket? I put liquid metal on the core, placed the heat spreader back on the chip, and then put it back in the unmodified retention mechanism. Then clamped it down like normal to hold the heat spreader in place (had to ever so slightly guide it by hand). Then I put liquid metal on the top of the heat spreader and mounted the heatsink like normal.
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Feb 28, 2017 04:30
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I'm assuming that's a brand name and not like a mercury amalgam or something. Isn't mercury poo poo at that sort of thing anyways?
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Feb 28, 2017 04:36
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Watermelon Daiquiri posted:I'm assuming that's a brand name and not like a mercury amalgam or something. Isn't mercury poo poo at that sort of thing anyways? Its gallium basically. Dont get it on aluminum https://www.amazon.com/Coollaboratory-Thermal-Compound-Processor-Heatsink/dp/B0039RY3MM Works great for delids. It will short poo poo out if you get it on traces or circuits.
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Feb 28, 2017 04:52
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Couldn't you just use a non-conductive TIM for that instead?
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Feb 28, 2017 05:00
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Uh a REAL prosumer will stick their cpu into a pressure furnace and grow a planar diamond layer between the heatsink and the die 
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Feb 28, 2017 06:20
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Lowen SoDium posted:I put liquid metal on the core, placed the heat spreader back on the chip, and then put it back in the unmodified retention mechanism. Then clamped it down like normal to hold the heat spreader in place (had to ever so slightly guide it by hand). Then I put liquid metal on the top of the heat spreader and mounted the heatsink like normal. Ahhhh. I got confused and thought you were running bare die 
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Feb 28, 2017 06:44
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Deuce posted:Couldn't you just use a non-conductive TIM for that instead? Yeah but gallium conducts heat slightly better. It also expands when it freezes, which occurs at 29.8°C. Freeze/thaw cycles every time you power the system on/off seem like a bad thing.
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Feb 28, 2017 06:50
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Leave it running 24/7, problem solved.
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Feb 28, 2017 08:03
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Platystemon posted:Yeah but gallium conducts heat slightly better. Well its not straight gallium. Whatever the alloy is it definitely doesn't freeze at 29.8c otherwise the tubes would all rupture.
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Feb 28, 2017 15:49
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Tab8715 posted:Is Coffeelake or Iceland expected to bring anything new to the table aside from minor performance gains? Well, aside from the pure CPU and better memory performance there are the real substantial platform upgrades that do exist now. Probably the most relevant is NVMe/PCIe SSD boot support.
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Feb 28, 2017 16:14
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Gwaihir posted:Well, aside from the pure CPU and better memory performance there are the real substantial platform upgrades that do exist now. Probably the most relevant is NVMe/PCIe SSD boot support. I don't know about others, but that particular feature isn't that important to me. Regular SATA SSDs are not only already fast enough for me, but also expensive enough. Having an even more expensive tier of storage available is not that useful for most home users, I'd wager. That's not to say it's not a nice-to-have feature, but not something I would be upgrading exclusively for.
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Feb 28, 2017 19:04
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Don Lapre posted:Well its not straight gallium. Whatever the alloy is it definitely doesn't freeze at 29.8c otherwise the tubes would all rupture. Most materials shrink when they freeze, not expand. Water is in the minority, even if it is so common. Gallium wouldn't rupture a container if frozen. 
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Feb 28, 2017 20:03
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HalloKitty posted:I don't know about others, but that particular feature isn't that important to me. Regular SATA SSDs are not only already fast enough for me, but also expensive enough. Having an even more expensive tier of storage available is not that useful for most home users, I'd wager. Sure , SSDs on sata are good enough. The RAM makes much more of a difference. There have been a few more pieces like this one popping up around tech sites in the last few months, too: http://techreport.com/review/31410/a-bridge-too-far-migrating-from-sandy-to-kaby-lake (Good for games that abuse your CPU because they're coded like poo poo, that's a niche!!)
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Feb 28, 2017 20:11
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Don Lapre posted:Its gallium basically. Dont get it on aluminum
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Mar 1, 2017 06:22
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IT loving WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOORKED   Turns out these things are a major bitch to desolder. Only managed to get one lead out, re-used the other one. Thankfully it was stable after that and we did not have to replace any others (yet?) Gonna clean it up real nice to make sure it knows I love it still, just so it feels extra betrayed when I throw it in the dumpster for my new Ryzen rig
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Mar 1, 2017 07:00
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Replaced the caps? Nice work. I shouldn't give up on my z77e itx.
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Mar 1, 2017 07:07
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GRINDCORE MEGGIDO posted:Replaced the caps? Nice work. I shouldn't give up on my z77e itx. Just the one that spurted. I wanted to do at least that row, but that would have taken quite some time without equipment about ~1 tier higher up on the badass scale
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Mar 1, 2017 07:36
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New Zealand can eat me posted:IT Told ya 
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Mar 1, 2017 13:57
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I had to turn XMP off and crank all of the power limits to 140% to make it stable, but it's still happy at 4.8ghz lol (Re: XMP, should I try giving it a little more power also to see if that helps?)  This is honestly all I wanted to do with it. Not meant to be a measure of anything other than my own happiness. Very empowering to say gently caress too Hong Kong's 90% "Like New" refurb for $150 with a 4-6wk ship time. This was essentially $2.25 + 30 minutes of "work", and donating $20 to the lovely hackerspace for accommodating me. Edit: just to be clear, unless you plan on heating the whole board because of the ground planes, you're going to have a much better time finding a way to separate the bad cap from the leads, and soldering to those instead. We did this on accident and ran with it
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Mar 1, 2017 15:20
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New Zealand can eat me posted:IT Lead-less solder requires higher temperatures. I usually try and cut the top half of the cap off and use the leads soldered to the board to connect to. Looks like you got that idea. Good job.
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Mar 1, 2017 15:50
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redeyes posted:Lead-less solder requires higher temperatures. I usually try and cut the top half of the cap off and use the leads soldered to the board to connect to. Looks like you got that idea. Good job. We had the iron at 450C/900 (not the best tip tho), and also had a blower/sucker (heh) available but neither were sufficient. Unfortunately the nice iron went home with the owner that specific night. At max temp it almost seemed to just be burning (blackening) the solder, is there potential that it was braised or something? I think it was just all the planes/copper in between tho. Probably should have isolated better or whatever. Clearly not a professional here (but I did want to thank ya'll with electrical engineering degrees / real world knowledge for saving me a TON of trouble and tempering my expectations) Unfortunately someone had recently removed the reflow oven they had and replaced it with a protocol analyzer (not complaining), which would have been great to preheat and save a ton of time, definitely would have hit all the caps that way. I wanted to try and use a laser but I guess the laser warden or w/e wasn't around to make sure we don't shoot our eyes out  It's really empowering to fix something like this. I really cannot stress it enough. It's such a stupid little loving thing, but the combination of sentimental value, initial money investment, remaining potential, and general saved hassle has me feeling like I could fix anything right now. I loving dare another cap to spurt at me, so help their god
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Mar 1, 2017 18:56
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New Zealand can eat me posted:We had the iron at 450C/900 (not the best tip tho), and also had a blower/sucker (heh) available but neither were sufficient. Unfortunately the nice iron went home with the owner that specific night. At max temp it almost seemed to just be burning (blackening) the solder, is there potential that it was braised or something? I think it was just all the planes/copper in between tho. Probably should have isolated better or whatever. Clearly not a professional here (but I did want to thank ya'll with electrical engineering degrees / real world knowledge for saving me a TON of trouble and tempering my expectations) Fixing your own electronic stuff is a ton of fun for sure, you might have wanted to try a Solder Wick to get that cap end off as I have much better luck with that then the sucker thing most of the time. I hate throwing things away and feel great fixing them (just hate it when they don't stay fixed.) Recent fixes were my Tegra Note tablet (MicroUSB port is 100% going to break on it, soldered a Wireless charging pad onto it, though now it quit charging and I am not sure why... Can solder directly to the battery leads but not sure how safe that is long term...) Klipsch ProMedia 4.1 Speakers (One of the Resister literally cooked the circuit board it was soldered too that it baked the traces clean off. Had to solder that lead to the part the trace originally went too lol. The Resister still worked (though was replaced) and has worked great ever since). And tons of other little stuff. Motorhome Refrigerator controller circuit board, Caps/Resisters on various other boards/monitors, Yaw POT on X52, etc. Once you do it a few times, you can sort of get the hang of it and fix nearly anything as long as you can get the parts for it. Hell it can be a good money maker when people throw something out only to have it been a single cap to replace to make it like new again. 
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Mar 1, 2017 19:07
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Lead-free solder is the devil.
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Mar 1, 2017 19:16
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I definitely want to be that guy who picks synthesizers out of the garbage and makes them beautiful again, just not right now. It's time to play DiRT Rally
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Mar 1, 2017 19:17
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It was probably burning the flux in the solder. I usually snip off the cap then desolder just the tiny leg bits. I'm surprised a desolder station couldn't do it, but It's whatever works though, mission accomplished. I never bothered preheating anything, ever. There's some probably dead Nuvotron io chip on my board, hopefully it checks out as the fault so I can replace it.
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Mar 1, 2017 19:23
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New Zealand can eat me posted:We had the iron at 450C/900 (not the best tip tho), and also had a blower/sucker (heh) available but neither were sufficient. Unfortunately the nice iron went home with the owner that specific night. At max temp it almost seemed to just be burning (blackening) the solder, is there potential that it was braised or something The blackening is probably just burnt flux.If it happens, usually it’s a sign you’re using too much heat, but if you have a ground plane sucking the heat away, sometimes it can’t be helped. Braising is a cooking technique. Brazing is the same basic concept as soldering, join two metal parts by using a different metal that melts at a lower temperature. The only difference is that if the metal melts below about 450°C, we call it soldering. Above that, it’s brazing. Even lead‐free solder melts well under 300°C (though the iron needs to be hotter to do its job).
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Mar 2, 2017 01:51
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Combat Pretzel posted:Lead-free solder is the devil. This cannot be stated enough
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Mar 2, 2017 01:57
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Yeah I bought some lead-free solder and I got about 2 minutes into use before I swore it off for all of eternity.
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Mar 2, 2017 02:07
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I’m not going to lie and say that lead‐free solder flows quite as nicely as 63/37 tin/lead, but the difficulties with it are highly overstated. For hand soldering, I recommend Sn100C over the more common SAC305. The main change I had to make when switching to lead‐free was being more diligent about cleaning the tip of the iron. Use brass wool early and often. Platystemon fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Mar 2, 2017 |
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Mar 2, 2017 02:07
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Platystemon posted:I’m not going to lie and say that lead‐free solder flows quite as nicely as 63/37 lead/tin, but the difficulties with it are highly overstated. its tendency to form tin whiskers, however, is not
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Mar 2, 2017 03:02
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Paul MaudDib posted:its tendency to form tin whiskers, however, is not Yeah it is. Tin whiskers are the bogeyman. Tin whisker horror stories come from pure tin, usually harsh environments. So don’t use pure tin, and don’t launch your mobo to space. What’s more relevant is that consumer electronics sold within the last decade came from the factory 100% lead‐free, so that’s what you should use for repairs. Use tin/lead if you’re repairing old equipment. Mixing lead‐free and leaded solder types risks catastrophic joint failure. Not that I think that’s a particularly great concern, but it’s certainly greater than the risk of tin whiskers. What you really have to worry about are the components coated in pure tin. Using lead solder won’t save you if whiskers are forming between leads, under packages, even inside packages. This is NASA’s great fear (and the DoD, but they have better budgets for custom jobs).
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Mar 2, 2017 03:33
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Platystemon posted:Braising is a cooking technique. PYF Braised Beef 2600k Recipe
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Mar 2, 2017 04:40
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