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MikeyTsi posted:Because mistakes were made, Pioneer, mistakes were made. On mine there is an option somewhere under system to reset bluetooth. I never had more than one phone connected but it always deleted the one that was.
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Mar 15, 2017 01:36
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So I have been researching and plotting for a while. I'm pretty sure I know enough people to have access to all the tile necessary to build me a nice box. I only have so much space available, so that's an issue. I have two Rockford Fosgate 2 P2-D4 12's that are in two prefab lovely sealed boxes. I have been modeling enclosures with WinIsd and have come to the conclusion that for the space available (3.99 ft^3 gross) that I would be best served building a box tuned to 27-28 Hrz and running my subs in an isobaric pair. What are some thoughts on this? I have read what I can find on isobaric pair, which mostly said that I can half the enclosure volume, lower the running frequency, etc. I would tube the enclosure to 21 Hrz for the flattest response curve, but I don't have room for the port. Help me out Goons.
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Mar 15, 2017 06:18
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Uncle Lizard posted:So I have been researching and plotting for a while. I'm pretty sure I know enough people to have access to all the tile necessary to build me a nice box. I only have so much space available, so that's an issue. I have two Rockford Fosgate 2 P2-D4 12's that are in two prefab lovely sealed boxes. I have been modeling enclosures with WinIsd and have come to the conclusion that for the space available (3.99 ft^3 gross) that I would be best served building a box tuned to 27-28 Hrz and running my subs in an isobaric pair. What are some thoughts on this? I have read what I can find on isobaric pair, which mostly said that I can half the enclosure volume, lower the running frequency, etc. I would tube the enclosure to 21 Hrz for the flattest response curve, but I don't have room for the port. Help me out Goons.
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Mar 15, 2017 07:50
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Yeah my first question would be does your music actually have any fundamentals that low or is this purely a dickwaving exercise? If for dickwaving then knock yourself the gently caress out. If otherwise throw your tunes through audacity and analyse where the actual musical content is on the low end side and that will let you know what you should be aiming for in terms of frequency. Most music these days has content down to 40hz, modern dance music has helped push the low end game. Some genres have low end down to 35hz and this is pretty much as low as the vast majority of poo poo anyone will listen to will go. I have some tunes that roll off at 27hz but nothing that goes lower without being a lovely edit some fuckstick has done which ruins the sound of the song anyway. So for my purposes I'd be happy with something that hits hard at 35hz and rolls off from there naturally.
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Mar 15, 2017 11:52
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I listen to house, dubstep, drum and bass, rap, and heavy metal most of the time, but I listen to classical and oldies like Elvis and Frank Sinatra on occasion. I know that there will be some cabin gain to account for also. I am thinking that 27-28 Hrz will be the sweet spot between a nice flat frequency response and a realistic port length. I have also heard it's best to tune a ported box to the fs of the sub. In this case the fs is 27 Hrz. I'm just wondering if I'm going to run into any problems running these subs in an isobaric pair.
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Mar 15, 2017 15:39
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An isobaric setup gets you a lower frequency output with a smaller footprint but at the expense of adding another woofer. Loudness wise they're the same as using a single driver. So no problems as such, it's just a different way of doing things and one that's not really been a thing since driver VAS has improved due to better manufacturing methods and tech.
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Mar 15, 2017 15:51
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Olympic Mathlete posted:An isobaric setup gets you a lower frequency output with a smaller footprint but at the expense of adding another woofer. Loudness wise they're the same as using a single driver. So no problems as such, it's just a different way of doing things and one that's not really been a thing since driver VAS has improved due to better manufacturing methods and tech. Well I already have two subs and I don't have enough space to build a box for 2, so I might as well I guess.
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Mar 15, 2017 16:06
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Perfect excuse to do it!
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Mar 15, 2017 16:16
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RIP Paul Walker posted:On mine there is an option somewhere under system to reset bluetooth. I never had more than one phone connected but it always deleted the one that was. Good for you!
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Mar 15, 2017 23:56
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MikeyTsi posted:Good for you! I was hoping it might have been a helpful comment to you, but that probably wasn't very clear. Please append "you might want to check around there, both of my recent Pioneer head units have had it there. It's buried, but it exists" to my original comment.
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Mar 16, 2017 02:12
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I got a 2003 Matrix I'm finally going to throw something in place of the stupid radio that has no modern inputs/aux so I can hear things off my phone. I've got most of it figured out but I was unclear if I absolutely had to get a installation kit to mount the new (FYI) box in with? I know I'll need the wiring part because square peg round hole type deal.
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Mar 24, 2017 18:00
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LethalGeek posted:I got a 2003 Matrix I'm finally going to throw something in place of the stupid radio that has no modern inputs/aux so I can hear things off my phone. I've got most of it figured out but I was unclear if I absolutely had to get a installation kit to mount the new (FYI) box in with? I know I'll need the wiring part because square peg round hole type deal. It depends on whether the hardware that attaches your current radio to the car can be removed and installed on the new radio. You can probably google it and find out, or just do a test run of your radio replacement and take a look at it.
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Mar 24, 2017 23:19
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Trying to help my buddy wire up a sub in his 2006 Mazda 6. So he has his stock head unit, stock amp (for the existing system), door speakers/tweeters, and a stock sub. What he wants to do is splice into the wiring for the stock sub and run the acc and control wires from that to his new amp and then wire up the sub.. giving him two subs. Stock is an 8" Bose and new is a 10" something. I told him.. 1) that sounds dangerous, I dunno if it actually is but doesn't sound like it makes sense, and 2) its going to sound like poo poo. I suggested we remove the stock amp, and then wire that into his system to power the entire system, with new sub and eliminate the stock sub. Does that even sound feasible?
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Apr 18, 2017 06:09
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Nope. That 6 will have a factory bose system by your description of it and due to the way the system is set up, removing the amp for an aftermarket will make the rest of it sound like a bag of rear end. And as an aside, that system should have 2 amps, the main one driving the speakers and a second one driving the sub. I've got an '04 mazda 6 with the factory bose system where someone cut out the factory amp and removed the sub. To get it marginally functional again, I've had to put in an aftermarket head unit, amp and speakers and ran all new wiring (not necessary, but If I was gonna do it, I was going to do it right). I'd say his plan of tapping the existing sub wiring for a signal is probably the better way to go.
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Apr 18, 2017 07:22
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The new sub will likely not play well with the old one, the cabinet for it may even put it 180 degrees out of phase leading to zero bass instead of more. If he wants more bass pull out the 8" and put a dual 10" in, varying designs is a lovely idea likely to lead to more problems.
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Apr 18, 2017 07:30
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The factory sub was (supposedly, I've never seen it in person) mounted on top of the spare tire in the spare tire well, at least on the wagon. I know some people have had success adding aftermarket subs in place of the factory bose sub on various mazda 6 forums. I'm not 100% sure what he needs to do in this specific case, because like I said, I went with all aftermarket stuff due to my situation. If he has a working factory system, it may be the better option than what I did since only metra make a kit for installing an aftermarket head unit into the car and its around $150-180 depending on where you get it and what sales are going on. The kit is necessary to retain the display for the climate controls (for auto ac at least)/clock/radio.
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Apr 18, 2017 07:43
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His sub is mounted above the rear seats on the back shelf. So I'm thinking eliminate the OEM 8" sub altogether and then just install the 10" using the existing wiring to connect the second amp.
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Apr 18, 2017 13:37
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ignore this post, looking for a previous post itt edit it's gone!!!
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Apr 18, 2017 20:43
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Regarding Bose systems, I just went through a ton of posts trying to upgrade the sub in my G37. The most important thing about replacing the sub amp is that the signal to the amp is "balanced"... which to my non-electrical brain basically seems to mean that you have signal+ and signal- instead of what most other amps are expecting, which is signal and ground. That allows the amp to compare the two signals and clean/filter out any introduced noise. However, most other amps aren't expecting a balanced signal so you need a transformer to convert the signal to what the new amp is expecting. The Radio Design Labs RDL TX-1A was linked in a couple threads and can be found pretty cheap. http://www.ebay.com/itm/RDL-TX-1A-Adjustable-Line-Transformer-/282177199356 for example. I removed the sub amp, spliced into the signal+, signal-, and remote wires from the harness. Then the signal+ and signal- to the TX-A1, and then patched that out to RCA cables for my ancient Alpine amp. Whether it was 100% necessary, I don't know. But it does work well and sound good without any of the issues that other people have reported (low gain, distortion, etc). And that pretty much exhausts my temporary expertise in replacing components in a Bose system. Hopefully it's useful.
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Apr 19, 2017 17:53
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So, I have a 2017 Ford Fusion (with 11 speakers!) and it does not sound very nice to my philistine ears. Not very nice at all. Keeping the head unit in is a must, and I don't think I trust myself to tune a DSP (and holy poo poo they are expensive), so running the speaker wire through an LC7i sounds like what I want to do, I think. If I absolutely need a DSP, would something like a bit Ten work? I can't find a wiring diagram for Ford's headunit (Ford calls it the ACM) for the life of me. Is it acceptable to just tap the speaker wire from the four doors/rear deck back into an LOC in the trunk? And feed that into the amp and run speaker wire back to each of the speaker locations? The factory speakers are: - A 6.5" woofer and separate tweeter in each door - 2 6x9 speakers on the rear deck - A center dash speaker (I think it's a 3.5) I don't thiiiink there are any external amps, but I'd have to check. I want to start by installing an amp and a subwoofer, and then expanding out to the rest of the speakers later, but I'm not sure what kind of amp I want or what should eventually happen with the rest of the factory mounts (like, do I really even need anything in the rear deck? I'm assuming that will affect what kind of amp I get). Would you use a four channel, or a five channel, or a mono for the sub and a separate for the rest of the speakers? I don't really have a tight budget, and I don't need head-splitting bass, but I do want something that kicks and sounds clear at a high volume. GenJoe fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Apr 20, 2017 |
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Apr 20, 2017 00:02
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mungtor posted:Regarding Bose systems, I just went through a ton of posts trying to upgrade the sub in my G37. The most important thing about replacing the sub amp is that the signal to the amp is "balanced"... which to my non-electrical brain basically seems to mean that you have signal+ and signal- instead of what most other amps are expecting, which is signal and ground. That allows the amp to compare the two signals and clean/filter out any introduced noise. However, most other amps aren't expecting a balanced signal so you need a transformer to convert the signal to what the new amp is expecting. The Radio Design Labs RDL TX-1A was linked in a couple threads and can be found pretty cheap. I did a bit of research into this when I was looking at buying a Mazda 3 (1st Gen) with the Bose system, and after a pretty exhaustive trawl through forums, I was able to identify that, yes, you can totally cludge aftermarket amps and speakers into the stock Head Unit if you so desire. But based on my own experiences with OEM integrations in my Lexus (which has significantly better OEM sound all round), you shouldn't bother. Just save for a while longer, get a fascia kit, a nice head unit (double din Kenwood and Alpine units are cheap, good and plentiful atm), ISO harness kit, and some cheapish speakers, and you'll gain bluetooth, USB, 9 Band EQ, time correction, way WAY better volume, and heaps better sound quality. Then you can just add a sub the traditional way. You're going to be disappointed with the results if you just graft a sub on to the OEM system, and you'll save heaps of time by just going aftermarket. You might lose your external temp readout on the Mazda, but then I think there are workarounds for that now anyway.
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Apr 20, 2017 07:57
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Step 1 for a Bose system should always be to rip that garbage out and throw it in the nearest
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Apr 20, 2017 22:27
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Just got my system installed yesterday. Alpine SWR-10D4 sub, Alpine MRV-M500 amp, and AudioControl LC2i LOC. Aside from needing some sound deadening in the doors, it sounds great. I only have one complaint, and I didn't really realize it until this morning. Even if the volume on my radio is set really low, the bass is still super loud. I live in a condensed neighborhood and like to lower the volume pulling in and out of my neighborhood. And sometimes you need to listen to car sounds. Is there any setting on the amp or LOC I can tweak that lowers the bass at low volumes?
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May 15, 2017 00:11
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Not specifically for only low volumes, but this generally means your gain is set too high. Just turn the gain on your amp and/or LOC down a bit.
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May 15, 2017 02:43
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Just got my system installed yesterday. Alpine SWR-10D4 sub, Alpine MRV-M500 amp, and AudioControl LC2i LOC. Aside from needing some sound deadening in the doors, it sounds great. I only have one complaint, and I didn't really realize it until this morning. Even if the volume on my radio is set really low, the bass is still super loud. I live in a condensed neighborhood and like to lower the volume pulling in and out of my neighborhood. And sometimes you need to listen to car sounds. Depends on your head unit/amp features. For instance, my head unit has LP/HP features and includes a "gain" control specifically for the SW channel. I usually just set and forget unless I want it louder/quieter.
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May 15, 2017 06:22
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Thanks. I set the gain on the amp down from 50% to 25% and it seems a lot better.
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May 20, 2017 15:50
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my 2010 Subaru outback has an auxiliary port and a USB media player plugin. The auxiliary port is veeery finicky, ill have to twist the cord to get it to play without breaking up or being wicked distorted. Do they have like auxiliary condoms I can use that maybe beef it up and ensure the male's hitting that audio g spot and I can listen to music? Or any way to repair the female end without having to replace it?
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May 23, 2017 20:47
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5 RING SHRIMP posted:my 2010 Subaru outback has an auxiliary port and a USB media player plugin. Have you tried just using a different cable?
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May 23, 2017 20:53
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Yes, multiple and they've all got the same issue. It's definitely an issue with the female part of the port
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May 23, 2017 20:56
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5 RING SHRIMP posted:Yes, multiple and they've all got the same issue. It's definitely an issue with the female part of the port That's almost always from someone yanking/smashing on the cable when it's plugged in, and breaking the solder joint between the jack and the board. Not an easy fix unless you're handy with that sort of thing. You can look in the jack with a flashlight and see if there's a bunch of crud in there keeping the plug from going in all the way, but I doubt that's the problem.
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May 24, 2017 00:33
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If a replacement cable for it is cost-prohibitive or hard to get - it probably wouldn't be too difficult to replace it with a generic panel-mount jack and solder the existing wiring to it. Unless they've got that jack mounted to some sort of PCB right there at the port.
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May 24, 2017 01:08
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And it's not a loose connector from your mp3 player? Just checking  on the older imprezas it was pretty easy to change. See if you can find one of those Subaru dealers with the online diagram and look at the parts diagram.
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May 24, 2017 01:29
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5 RING SHRIMP posted:my 2010 Subaru outback has an auxiliary port and a USB media player plugin. Sup 2010 Outback buddy! Bookmark this website! They nearly always have the instructions, too.' This is the official part if it's the USB/Aux combo that comes in my r Limited. This site is also good to have bookmarked. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 07:41 on May 24, 2017 |
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May 24, 2017 07:36
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Is there anything inherently wrong with wiring a series/parallel speaker circuit like this?  The amp is rated 230w RMS bridged at 4 ohm with all speakers being 4 ohm resistance. Speakers 1 and 4 are 100w RMS, 2 and 3 are 30w RMS My math says that 1/4 should be getting ~92w and 2/3 should be getting ~23w, but my gut says that's wrong I'm trying to reuse the cheap speakers I had laying around  The Door Frame fucked around with this message at 07:16 on May 25, 2017 |
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May 25, 2017 07:13
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The Door Frame posted:Is there anything inherently wrong with wiring a series/parallel speaker circuit like this? I expect that this is going to do terrible things to the resistance the amplifier sees.
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May 25, 2017 07:39
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You do realize this would all have to go on one channel, right? You can bridge the amp (if it can be bridged) to get both channels fed into the circuit, but you're still winding up with mono, not stereo.MikeyTsi posted:I expect that this is going to do terrible things to the resistance the amplifier sees. I'm too tired to math or electrical, but I think (THINK) that's going to be seen as a 10 ohm load. If that's the case, it won't hurt anything, but it's not going to put out anything remotely close to its rated output. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:01 on May 25, 2017 |
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May 25, 2017 08:46
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The Door Frame posted:Is there anything inherently wrong with wiring a series/parallel speaker circuit like this? I've straight up never seen any system wired like that so have little idea of just what the gently caress would happen... You either parallel or series drivers, adding a series set inside a parallel set might work or it might toast all your drivers and smoke your amp. One way to find out I guess! *edit: I asked a speaker expert: quote:It's much easier to understand if you view the two central 4 ohm drivers parallel wired as a single 2 ohm driver. The result is three drivers series wired, two at 4 ohms, one at 2 ohms. Voltage distribution will not be equal, so this arrangement should not be used. The differing power ratings of the drivers is moot. What does matter is the T/S specs and response will be different, so what you'll end up with is probably not worth doing. Olympic Mathlete fucked around with this message at 14:52 on May 25, 2017 |
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May 25, 2017 13:27
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Ok, good to know that I've created something so extremely stupid that even people who know this stuff get confused. I had thought that the middle speakers would appear as a single 2 ohm speaker, but I didn't completely understand what that meant to a set of speakers wired in series Guess that I have to get a new set of speakers after all, thank you guys
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May 25, 2017 20:00
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Just replaced the power antenna mast on my 91 LandCruiser which was super simple. Then I tried to replace the old Kenwood had unit with a new Pioneer App radio. Everything was going smoothly until I realized the stupid PO hard wired the harness into the stock one. Where do I even start with fixing this? Do I try to find a stock plug and re-write it back together?
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May 27, 2017 22:30
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savesthedayrocks posted:Just replaced the power antenna mast on my 91 LandCruiser which was super simple. 1. Curse the fates, for they have provided you with a dumbfuck P.O. 2. Assemble a voodoo doll so that you may properly punish said P.O. 3. Proceed to your nearest pick n pull lot and get yourself a replacement harness. Cut said harness reasonably far back so you have some space to work with. 4. Carefully remove dumbfuck's bodge job, splice in the replacement harness, and do it the right way from now on, while muttering curses to the P.O. under your breath. 5. Repeat when you replace the radio on your next used vehicle.
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May 28, 2017 09:12
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