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Yea, it's not that my foot is coming out of the shoe, it just doesn't feel as secure. I definitely don't trust my heel to stick to a hold like I did with the Instincts. I think I'm probably happier with a more sensitive shoe than the Shamans. They also seem to suck for smearing. Maybe I'll give the Skwamas a shot, I loved Pythons when I had those.
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Feb 24, 2017 02:38
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Dutymode posted:Yea, it's not that my foot is coming out of the shoe, it just doesn't feel as secure. I definitely don't trust my heel to stick to a hold like I did with the Instincts. I think I'm probably happier with a more sensitive shoe than the Shamans. They also seem to suck for smearing. Maybe I'll give the Skwamas a shot, I loved Pythons when I had those. I'm a little intrigued when you say the Instinct's neoprene sock is rubbing the top of your foot raw. Is it shifting constantly while you're climbing?
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Feb 24, 2017 04:34
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I took a closer look, and I think it was more where the leather finger loop slightly overlaps the neoprene sock at the top. It would rub a small raw spot right at the top of my foot/ankle on both feet. Really such a silly thing to ruin a shoe for me, but I wore them for a year and it never stopped.
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Feb 24, 2017 16:30
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Dutymode posted:I took a closer look, and I think it was more where the leather finger loop slightly overlaps the neoprene sock at the top. Why not try putting a piece of moleskin padding either on the shoe where it rubs you or on your foot where it gets rubbed?
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Feb 24, 2017 21:42
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I'm planning to go bouldering today for ~1 hour and do deadlifts tomorrow. Is this a terrible idea? Should I skip deadlifts tomorrow?
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Mar 1, 2017 18:10
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nah you'll be fine, I do that regularly.
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Mar 1, 2017 18:56
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Good to hear, thanks!
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Mar 2, 2017 05:32
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Just do the climbing first.
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Mar 2, 2017 14:37
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60's the next to weekends in CO. might have to put the skis up for a few days and go out and climb. Headed to Vegas in 29 days so I probably should go plug some gear. Then off to the Red end of May. Getting excited to climb. I took three weeks off since I was on a two week ski road trip and man do I feel good about climbing after the break.
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Mar 2, 2017 15:56
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Chattanooga is extremely cool and you should all stay far away from it forever so all the cool boulders don't get crowded.
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Mar 10, 2017 03:31
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Took a few falls on gear last Sunday. Good to see what it can do and nice to kind of go for it. Still am not great at crack climbing but getting there. Off to Shelf Road for the weekend now. This heat wave makes it pretty easy to want to go climbing instead of skiing.
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Mar 10, 2017 14:34
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I tore my left ACL in the fall playing basketball, so I recently joined a climbing gym with my 7-year-old to keep active and reduce impact on my knee, which I had repaired 6 weeks ago. We have kind of a family rule where you have to participate in something every season, and as long as it exercises your body and/or mind, it's encouraged. She's not too into team sports yet, and at her age the rec sports like softball and soccer are painfully slow to participate in, but I think she found her groove with climbing. She will climb relentlessly for hours, until I drag her out of the gym. If she slips or fails one route, she just resets on a new line. It's great for my knee rehab since I set my own limits, so if I'm extra sore I can just go light or lay off that leg. I took the belay class, and even doing that is a pretty good (if limited) workout. I used to think I had a killer grip from playing guitar, but my forearms are lit up today after climbing a few times last week and over the weekend. I'm really hoping she sticks with it... 
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Mar 13, 2017 19:24
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Awesome man. Climbing is a great thing. If she is really into it you might see if there is a climbing team she can join (basically kids hanging out and getting strong at climbing). Went down to shelf road this weekend. Good camping and climbing. Got on some 11's and felt really strong on them. Looking like this will be a good season.
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Mar 14, 2017 00:22
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went climbing for the first time this weekend. absolutely loved it despite being the only fat guy on the wall. My lack of expertise seemed to inconvenience a few nine year olds heh. did you guys know "5.12" is actually really, really hard and not .8 easier than a 5.2? 
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Mar 21, 2017 19:57
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My season is done. Tore both ACL and MCL.   Who wants to recommend workouts to rehab and get stronger while I PT?
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Mar 22, 2017 04:15
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Thom and the Heads posted:went climbing for the first time this weekend. absolutely loved it despite being the only fat guy on the wall. My lack of expertise seemed to inconvenience a few nine year olds heh. did you guys know "5.12" is actually really, really hard and not .8 easier than a 5.2? Haha in any other setting you wouldn't be wrong! Glad you enjoyed it, keep in mind it takes (alot!) time to get good at it, so just stick with it. Don't get frustrated if you hit plateaus, it's a very cerebral sport and determination is key.
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Mar 22, 2017 05:34
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gamera009 posted:My season is done. Hangboard, you will be a beast by the end
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Mar 22, 2017 05:36
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gamera009 posted:My season is done. drat. Landing off a boulder? A really aggressive drop knee?
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Mar 22, 2017 14:04
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Thom and the Heads posted:went climbing for the first time this weekend. absolutely loved it despite being the only fat guy on the wall. My lack of expertise seemed to inconvenience a few nine year olds heh. did you guys know "5.12" is actually really, really hard and not .8 easier than a 5.2? Math is really, really hard too!
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Mar 22, 2017 14:35
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crazycello posted:drat. Landing off a boulder? A really aggressive drop knee? 45-degree cave. Heel cam on a slot to lock my core into the wall. Hands popped and my knee was the fulcrum for a barn door/rocket off the problem. I was, oddly, only two feet off the ground.
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Mar 22, 2017 15:00
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gamera009 posted:My season is done. I'm 7 weeks out of ACL allograph and I've had success (so far) with a daily combo of stationary bike, core work, and bodyweight squats, lunges, etc... both before and after reconstruction. Are you planning on getting surgery?
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Mar 22, 2017 15:47
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Thom and the Heads posted:went climbing for the first time this weekend. absolutely loved it despite being the only fat guy on the wall. My lack of expertise seemed to inconvenience a few nine year olds heh. did you guys know "5.12" is actually really, really hard and not .8 easier than a 5.2? Just wait till you go climbing outside, it's like resetting your progress in one of those incremental flash games. 5.9 is wild all over again! Then you get into Trad and all the way up piddly little 5.8's you're sweating bullets and trying to build a ladder out of bricks you've shat. 
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Mar 22, 2017 18:58
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Anyone been to the New River mid-May? How're the conditions/weather/crowds usually? I'm trying to go on a weekend but not Memorial Day. e: It'd be my first time there too. I've only lead outside in smaller places near Pittsburgh so that'd be my first "big" area.
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Mar 22, 2017 21:59
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gamera009 posted:45-degree cave. Heel cam on a slot to lock my core into the wall. Hands popped and my knee was the fulcrum for a barn door/rocket off the problem. I was, oddly, only two feet off the ground. drat. I've always wondered what would happen if I fell with one of those in. Cheers to hangboarding and pull up's. Get better.
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Mar 23, 2017 14:41
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A positive update: MRI showed no tearing, but bursar was hosed and clearly there's more swelling and poo poo than a simple sprain. Doc believes I subluxed the knee. Still 4-6 weeks of PT, but better than surgery. 
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Mar 24, 2017 14:19
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Ravenfood posted:Anyone been to the New River mid-May? How're the conditions/weather/crowds usually? I'm trying to go on a weekend but not Memorial Day. just check out the monthly averages for fayetteville. i was there around labor day a few years ago and it was hot and humid as gently caress, but still plenty of fun climbing. guessing may might be similar, but maybe you'll get lucky and it won't have turned into summer yet. if it does wind up being super hot, head over to summersville lake. great climbing around there and you can jump in for a dip between climbs. or if you're feeling frisky you could even try some DWS. if it's your first time at a big area, you'll have a great time at the new no matter. it's one of the best crags in the country for sure. huge diversity of styles on incredible rock
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Mar 25, 2017 02:05
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I am enjoying that it is now climb after work outside time. Got up in clear creek for a couple of pitches before dark yesterday. Things like this make life good.
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Mar 25, 2017 02:43
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I was going to climb in Squamish this weekend. The forecast is now for snow.
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Mar 25, 2017 19:59
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I'm plateaued at V5 outdoors. I exclusively boulder, and generally on steep problems. I've tried to analyze it and I think my weak point is my core. Its hard to tell if its just cause my core is weak (which I think it is) and/or if my technique is bad enough that I'm doing using it correctly. Lots of opinions welcome! People always talk about body tension - should I actually be flexing my core on hard moves? What exactly does it mean to "stay tight", and what do I do/think about to stay tight? I know one strategy is to inhale before a hard move, so at least the core isn't "loose" I understand good footwork is key to utilizing the core. Should I be thinking about pushing into the wall with my toes, or more like pulling my body into the wall with my toes, so therefore pulling in as opposed to pushing in to keep the body on? Or, second guess, if the foot placement is a smear, then push into the wall, if its actually a sizable foot chip, pull in and down with it? Sorry, this post may be written poorly, I just got back from waking up at 5am today to do a day trip 3.5hr each way drive to Red Rocks and failed on something I definitely should have done (Monkey Bar Traverse)
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Mar 26, 2017 05:12
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Nifty posted:
Why couldn't you send MBT?
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Mar 27, 2017 01:38
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Endurance/finger strength I suppose. I flailed around on the first 6 or so attempts (even though I thought I had ironed out the beta last trip), and by the time I figured it out and could get to the end, I would fall on usually the last, powerful move to the pocket jug.
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Mar 27, 2017 04:07
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Nifty posted:What exactly does it mean to "stay tight", and what do I do/think about to stay tight? Mentally replace "stay tight" with "flex whatever you need to flex in order to do the next move in a controlled fashion instead of rocketing off the wall and falling on your face". As you guessed, this is almost always your core or lower body and early problems with "staying tight" (for me at least) were caused by not breathing properly and running out of gas when I got to a hard move. Focus on keeping your breathing even over the course of the whole problem instead of just before hard stuff and you might find it easier. Every move should be: breathe in before, breathe out during.
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Mar 27, 2017 13:40
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Nifty posted:Endurance/finger strength I suppose. I flailed around on the first 6 or so attempts (even though I thought I had ironed out the beta last trip), and by the time I figured it out and could get to the end, I would fall on usually the last, powerful move to the pocket jug. Not trying to be harsh, but I think the vast majority of solid V5 climbers should be able to send MBT off the couch without much effort, especially if your preferred terrain is overhangs. This says to me that maybe you haven't actually plateaued at V5. I also wonder whether core is really the weakness you should be focusing on -- if you were too gassed to do the last move of MBT, I think finger strength/endurance is probably the more pressing weakness. What made you self-assess core as the key weakness? Even though you exclusively boulder, there can be a lot of benefits for building more endurance/capacity. It can help directly with having enough left in the tank to do the last moves on longer problems like MBT, but can also help indirectly by increasing your stamina & ability to recover in between attempts. Also, most exercises for building endurance/capacity entail a high volume of low intensity climbing (e.g., ARCing), which is a great way to practice movement skills and work on things like being mindful about engaging your core, foot placement, etc.
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Mar 27, 2017 18:45
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I'll have a day off in Denver April 6th. Anyone want to take me outside? How is the weather? The bad news is I packed light for this trip so I just have shoes, harness, chalk and I think my gear to clean with. I wasn't planning on renting a car but I think Denver does zip car? The good news is I don't mind being your belay bitch while you work on something as long as I can get on something in my range, TR in the gyms at 5.10/11 sport 5.8s and no trad experience. Some anchor building from setting TRs outside. Sound_man fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Mar 27, 2017 |
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Mar 27, 2017 19:25
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Went climbing at the Red this past weekend; it was my first outing on real rock since October. Ended up spending the whole time at Muir Valley crags for the soft grades and easy access. Friday and Saturday were mostly spent on easy to moderate routes; the hardest we climbed was Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky(5.10b).On Sunday we decided to work on Cell Block Six (5.12c); the best climber in our group had been projecting this for years, and is moving overseas next month. Nobody was able to finish it, but we all had a blast trying and failing. On lead, I managed to stick a small dyno after the fifth bolt, but couldn't find footing good enough to rest on for the next big moves. Still, it felt great being able to pull off a big move halfway up a long overhanging 5.12 route.
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Mar 28, 2017 02:46
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Sound_man posted:I'll have a day off in Denver April 6th. Anyone want to take me outside? How is the weather? Since it is a Thursday I am not sure who on here would be around, I think we are all pretty much M-F 9-5er types. Mountain project has a very active partner finder. If all else fails I might be able to do a 4-7 climb in CCC.
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Mar 28, 2017 03:01
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Sharks Eat Bear posted:Not trying to be harsh, but I think the vast majority of solid V5 climbers should be able to send MBT off the couch without much effort, especially if your preferred terrain is overhangs. This says to me that maybe you haven't actually plateaued at V5. I also wonder whether core is really the weakness you should be focusing on -- if you were too gassed to do the last move of MBT, I think finger strength/endurance is probably the more pressing weakness. What made you self-assess core as the key weakness? Agreed that the problem is fairly soft, which is what prompted enough frustration to post on here. Also agreed that core isn't all that important on that problem.. What prompted the self assessment of core weakness is that is the limiting factor for me on a lot of other routes. Thanks for the suggestion on Endurance training, that would kill both the movement and strength birds with one stone
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Mar 28, 2017 04:19
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spwrozek posted:Since it is a Thursday I am not sure who on here would be around, I think we are all pretty much M-F 9-5er types. Mountain project has a very active partner finder. If all else fails I might be able to do a 4-7 climb in CCC. Gotcha, lets see what the weather looks like as it gets closer, I had a great time at Movement Denver so I might spend the afternoon there then meet up with some buddies for dinner.
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Mar 28, 2017 05:24
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https://vimeo.com/210809039
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Mar 31, 2017 01:52
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RIP
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