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Depends on how you're hooked up. From what I've seen, most internet connections to a premises tend to not bill for actual usage. Datacenter-based services (colocation, cloud, etc) will typically bill in either absolute GB transferred, or 95th percentile utilization.
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Apr 12, 2017 18:04
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Can I get a sanity check? I want to add an 8 port Ubiquiti switch with PoE to power an Unifi AC AP Pro. Is this the model that would do the trick: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Managed-Gigabit-US-8-150W/dp/B01DKXT4CI And am I correct in thinking that the 60W model will not power an AC AP Pro? I know the OP talks about the ToughSwitch but those seem to be not as available as the UniFi switches.
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Apr 12, 2017 18:04
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Sab669 posted:I know this is the home networking thread but I'm not sure where else to post this. Ha, what a lovely decision. Minifiers are a cheap and easy part of any js packaging process. Are you not hosting this on a cloud service? From any cloud vendor, you're paying about ~.10c/GB ballpark for network transfer, less if you're using a CDN correctly. Don't worry about the cost side of you delivering this stuff, think about subjecting your poor users to a 12MB download before your webapp is usable. That's awful, especially over slow connections.
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Apr 12, 2017 18:07
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While trying to get my ubiquiti ERL to route all internet traffic over an IPSec VPN (created/configured by algo) I came across this issue with a $200 bounty. I know there's lots of people using ubiquiti stuff in here and recommendations in this thread is what got me using their stuff, so if you've got the networking chops you might be able to make $200 and help me (and everyone else in that GH issue) out as well!
Thermopyle fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Apr 12, 2017 |
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Apr 12, 2017 19:10
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Wiggly posted:Can I get a sanity check? I want to add an 8 port Ubiquiti switch with PoE to power an Unifi AC AP Pro. Is this the model that would do the trick: One of the selling points of the AC AP Pro is that it can get power through regular 802.3af, rather than Ubiquiti's proprietary standard. The switch you linked will most certainly work to power your AC AP Pro, but so will this TP-Link Managed 8-port PoE switch, and it will run you less than half the price of the Ubiquiti switch you linked, with all the same main features (notably, VLANs). Ubiquiti makes great equipment, don't get me wrong, but a lot of their stuff is a cash grab. For example, any of their Edgerouters or even the switch you listed above *could* run the UniFi controller software onboard, if they wanted it to. But they don't, in order to sell you their CloudKey.
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Apr 12, 2017 19:30
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Sab669 posted:I know this is the home networking thread but I'm not sure where else to post this. Nah man, if you are the sole user no one cares. Really the incentive is to provide a faster website. You could theoretically use your full connection 24/7 and it would be fine.
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Apr 12, 2017 19:42
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Sab669 posted:I know this is the home networking thread but I'm not sure where else to post this. Working in IT thread is where you want to go. SEKCobra posted:Nah man, if you are the sole user no one cares. Really the incentive is to provide a faster website. You could theoretically use your full connection 24/7 and it would be fine. But yeah. This is the who-gives-a-poo poo level of data for any business that has a moderate user base. A *hosting* provider will probably have a data-moved-per-month meter, but typically a business-class line is going to billed on bandwidth, not how much data you move. Proteus Jones fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Apr 12, 2017 |
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Apr 12, 2017 19:54
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Wiggly posted:Can I get a sanity check? I want to add an 8 port Ubiquiti switch with PoE to power an Unifi AC AP Pro. Is this the model that would do the trick: bobfather posted:One of the selling points of the AC AP Pro is that it can get power through regular 802.3af, rather than Ubiquiti's proprietary standard. The US-8-60W will power up to 4 UAP-AC-Pro's. If you have an 802.3at PoE+ power injector you can do PoE passthrough for one UAP-AC-Pro on the US-8-12W. The "150w" and "60w" classification for the UniFi switches is their downstream PoE power budget. You can run up to 150w/60w of devices from that unit. The TP-Link switch has a 53w power budget and could reasonably handle 4 UAP-AC-Pro's. This Netgear unmanged piece of... will also work. The only unique advantage of the UniFi switches is having your wired and wireless clients show up per-port in the UniFi Controller clients panel (and centralized management, of course). And you really really don't want to run the UniFi controller onboard the hardware itself. There's not enough CPU/RAM. Even people attempting to run the controller on Raspberry Pi units had to do some modifications to make it fit. The Cloudkey was Ubiquiti's response to try to get people to stop hacking together inadequate hardware just to avoid installing it on a server or local desktop or AWS instance. As for Ubiquiti's 24v PoE? It's not that proprietary since I've seen other stuff like "24v PoE cameras" and even OpenMesh hardware using the same power layout, but it's also not an agreed standard, and you do risk releasing the magic smoke if you mix and match incorrectly. Best to stick with 802.3af 48v standardized PoE.
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Apr 12, 2017 20:58
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Twerk from Home posted:Ha, what a lovely decision. Minifiers are a cheap and easy part of any js packaging process. Wasn't my decision  We recently paid another company to re-write our software (we're too small to do it ourselves) and they simply append a value from the web.config to end of each JS file name, so now whenever we push an update the browser thinks every file is different and re-downloads 'em all. Previously we'd often get calls from our customers and tech support would have to walk them through clearing their cache, so this was the Indian firm's solution to the problem.Twerk from Home posted:Are you not hosting this on a cloud service? From any cloud vendor, you're paying about ~.10c/GB ballpark for network transfer, less if you're using a CDN correctly. Don't worry about the cost side of you delivering this stuff, think about subjecting your poor users to a 12MB download before your webapp is usable. That's awful, especially over slow connections. I honestly have no idea what our network /hosting setup is like. But the good news is I brought this up to my boss and he's on board so hopefully we'll get that going  I was just hoping maybe it'd be even better for the company than "Now our software is only as slow as some less-viscous molasses, instead of just regular molasses"
Sab669 fucked around with this message at 05:00 on Apr 13, 2017 |
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Apr 12, 2017 22:25
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I'm hoping someone can help me with some edgerouter issues that are really infuriating. I have an ERL and a unifi DMZed off of my ISP router/modem, but lately they've been making GBS threads themselves. All of a sudden the edgerouter will just up and die-- i lose connections and i can no longer ping or ssh into it, let alone enter the router's page. I'd also lose the unifi's access points, and restarting everything does absolutely nothing. I really should not have to go through the whole loving process of disconnecting things so i can set everything all up again, and luckily it seems it fixes itself after quite a few hours. In the past they all seem to happen at night, around 10, but when I'd wake up the next morning things seem to be just fine and everything works again. Has anyone else run into issues like this and know just what the gently caress is going on? I'm not doing anything exotic with them, and I just have it working as a normal router, with upnp and some static ips and port forwards. I'm basically at the point where I sell all this and just get a asus router or whatever is in vogue because these issues should not be happening! also, i removed my switch from the edgerouter and stuck it on the isp router, and somehow i can access one of the computers that I set up statically with an ip address for the ERL, even though the only connection it could possibly make to it is through the isp router... Watermelon Daiquiri fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Apr 13, 2017 |
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Apr 13, 2017 04:24
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Watermelon Daiquiri posted:I'm hoping someone can help me with some edgerouter issues that are really infuriating. I have an ERL and a unifi DMZed off of my ISP router/modem, but lately they've been making GBS threads themselves. All of a sudden the edgerouter will just up and die-- i lose connections and i can no longer ping or ssh into it, let alone enter the router's page. I'd also lose the unifi's access points, and restarting everything does absolutely nothing. I really should not have to go through the whole loving process of disconnecting things so i can set everything all up again, and luckily it seems it fixes itself after quite a few hours. In the past they all seem to happen at night, around 10, but when I'd wake up the next morning things seem to be just fine and everything works again. Has anyone else run into issues like this and know just what the gently caress is going on? I'm not doing anything exotic with them, and I just have it working as a normal router, with upnp and some static ips and port forwards. It could be bad flash. The Edgerouter lite uses a USB stick as storage and sometimes it goes bad. You can replace it and use the rescue kit someone made to turn a new usb flash drive into the proper format: https://community.ubnt.com/t5/EdgeMAX/EdgeRouter-Lite-not-responding/td-p/1202247 I haven't done it myself but it seems like it's happened to enough folks for it to be a common issue.
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Apr 13, 2017 04:30
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ergh, serial connection? I don't think I have the hardware for that. But it finally came back up after half an hour. If it truly is a failing usb drive, then it should be easier to clone things, i hope
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Apr 13, 2017 04:41
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Watermelon Daiquiri posted:ergh, serial connection? I don't think I have the hardware for that. You just need a Cisco Serial Cable. Although I'd check if you still get the problem if you connect to the router directly.
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Apr 13, 2017 08:43
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Watermelon Daiquiri posted:ergh, serial connection? I don't think I have the hardware for that. Sometimes a console connection is the only way to really diagnose a malfunctioning device. I have one of these in my "assorted cables" kit bag. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RHDXDWA I've used it without issues (in conjunction with the Serial app) on macOS. I imagine it's just as simple to use with Windows or Linux.
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Apr 13, 2017 14:45
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Mikrotik makes stuff that works better and much cheaper for a home situation. Setup is not hard.
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Apr 13, 2017 15:12
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I usually recommend Netgate SG-1000 as an edge router for people doing typical home networking. Personally I use a Fortigate 60E, since I work mostly out of my home and have a pretty complicated lab environment.
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Apr 13, 2017 15:28
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So i'll be moving into my new place tomorrow and was planning on using my NAS with the UniFi controller. Unfortunately I won't be able to get that setup until Sunday. I am transferring my service from my current place (FIOs) to my new place and plan on using all brand new UniFi gear. I can setup the router locally for just basic function but I was curious if anyone has ever provisioned the WAPs with just the android app?
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Apr 13, 2017 23:02
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flosofl posted:Sometimes a console connection is the only way to really diagnose a malfunctioning device. Seconding this cable, I have a few of them and replaced all my other poo poo + serial to usb converters.
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Apr 13, 2017 23:16
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flosofl posted:Sometimes a console connection is the only way to really diagnose a malfunctioning device. oh, it has usb! I was imagining a home made rj-45 soldered to 232 type dealie that I had to find an additional adapter for lol I love the ubiquiti stuff otherwise, its just annoying when it dies on me
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Apr 14, 2017 00:05
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smax posted:You can easily get what you want by using a plain old consumer router, but not using the router functions. How you'd set it up: So, I disabled DHCP on the router. And plugged it in as suggested. However, it would not work with the cable plugged into the yellow. I had to plug it into the blue WAN port and it all started working as intended. I have wifi in my office and it appears that the lan ports now operate just fine. However now I can't access the router itself via the IP address I can see it has according to the DHCP info window of my main router. But as long as everything keeps running as it currently is, then I see no problems with this set up as is. Are there any risks the way I have it?
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Apr 14, 2017 03:18
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BadAstronaut posted:So, I disabled DHCP on the router. And plugged it in as suggested. However, it would not work with the cable plugged into the yellow. I had to plug it into the blue WAN port and it all started working as intended. I have wifi in my office and it appears that the lan ports now operate just fine. You might need to manually set the IP address of your router to something on your main network to get it to work like I was describing, not entirely sure what's going on with your specific situation though.
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Apr 14, 2017 03:51
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You should be able to access the web interface when connected through the blue ports.
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Apr 14, 2017 03:58
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smax posted:
Hmmm when I manually set the IP address it became completely inaccessible. My PC IP address was nothing like the new router or the old one, and I could not access it (despite restarts of both PC and router). I had to factory reset it, start from scratch and now have the incoming ethernet into the blue, PC in yellow, and wifi set up and tested on phone. It is working fine and I can access both the modem router and the office one. I have two IP address ranges now it seems. 192.168.20.1 is the modem router, and 192.168.0.1 is the office one, and my PC now has IP 192.168.0.100. Real test will see if my PS4 upstairs will be able to access the Plex server from the PC in the office. If it can, then there's no real problem (that I can see!) with the current setup. EDIT: Yep, exactly as I feared (and what you guys were probably warning about) in that it's two different networks, apparently, and so my Steam Link no longer sees this PC, and my PS4 can't connect to this Plex server. I've now plugged the wall cable into a yellow port and I'm back to where i was a little earlier. WiFi fine but it doesn't seem to be acting as a switch. DHCP is disabled. It's still assigning my PC as 192.168.0.100 and the router is still at 192.168.0.1 Strangely enough, when I'm on my phone on the WiFi from the router it behaves exactly as intended. I'm using it to type this. But my PC is now not connected to the internet. BadAstronaut fucked around with this message at 04:18 on Apr 14, 2017 |
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Apr 14, 2017 04:01
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BadAstronaut posted:Hmmm when I manually set the IP address it became completely inaccessible. My PC IP address was nothing like the new router or the old one, and I could not access it (despite restarts of both PC and router). Easy fix at this point: Turn off DHCP on the office router and manually set your office router's IP to 192.168.20.2, and set office router's gateway to 192.168.20.1 Plug all office wires incoming and outgoing into LAN ports of the office router
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Apr 14, 2017 04:18
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Fine to set its IP but i cant see where to set office router gateway. Hmm... And this is the same point i was stuck at earlier. Now my desktop PC can't access either router via web browser. Phone WiFi still working perfectly through office router. BadAstronaut fucked around with this message at 04:24 on Apr 14, 2017 |
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Apr 14, 2017 04:20
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BadAstronaut posted:Fine to set its IP but i cant see where to set office router gateway. Hmm... What type of router is the office one? Apologies if it's been posted and I missed it.
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Apr 14, 2017 04:24
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TP Link Archer C5 1200: https://www.mwave.com.au/product/tplink-archer-c5-ac1200-wireless-dual-band-gigabit-router-nbn-ready-ab56064 Phone on office router can access both old and new routers just fine via web browser. PC's IP address is still 192.168.0.100 and default gateway, DHCP and DNS servers are all correctly 192.168.20.1. EDIT: And now I am online on desktop PC but had to manually configure the IP address to 192.168.20.199 and add in 192.168.20.1 as default gateway and default dns. Can now access both routers from the PC. Concerned though that other devices added via ethernet will have issues like this, but won't be as easy to set up correctly? BadAstronaut fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Apr 14, 2017 |
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Apr 14, 2017 04:27
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BadAstronaut posted:TP Link Archer 1200. I linked it on previous page. Gotcha. quote:EDIT: And now I am online on desktop PC but had to manually configure the IP address to 192.168.20.199 and add in 192.168.20.1 as default gateway and default dns. Can now access both routers from the PC. Concerned though that other devices added via ethernet will have issues like this, but won't be as easy to set up correctly? You can probably kick your PC back to DHCP at this point and it should work just fine. Other devices may just need a reboot.
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Apr 14, 2017 04:30
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astral posted:A reboot of your PC or disable/reenable of your network connection ought to fix that. That's the weird thing... it didn't. :/ Will turn everything back to "Obtain an IP address automatically" and "Obtain DNS server address automatically" and shut down PC, restart and see if it fixes it.
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Apr 14, 2017 04:32
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Here’s an interface emulator for anyone who isn’t BadAstronaut.
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Apr 14, 2017 04:34
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Alright! Third try got it. PC now on 192.168.20.4, gateway/DHCP/DNS correctly at 192.168.20.1 - thanks guys! Final test... check the Steam Link and PS4 can access this PC just fine and we should be golden... Platystemon posted:Here’s an interface emulator for anyone who isn’t BadAstronaut. On that, if you go to basic and look at the network map, I am getting a red X over the Internet icon... but I am clearly online, so...
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Apr 14, 2017 04:35
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Platystemon posted:Here’s an interface emulator for anyone who isn’t BadAstronaut. That one shows gateway/DNS options at DHCP -> DHCP Settings -> Default Gateway e: BadAstronaut posted:Alright! Third try got it. PC now on 192.168.20.4, gateway/DHCP/DNS correctly at 192.168.20.1 - thanks guys! Awesome, sounds good. I'd probably shrink the DHCP pool on your primary (connected to the modem) router a little so it doesn't hand out such low IP addresses (leaving you free to manually assign another router/access point like you did with the office one to another low IP), but as long as everything's working correctly that's not super important or urgent. e2: quote:On that, if you go to basic and look at the network map, I am getting a red X over the Internet icon... but I am clearly online, so... I don't have any TP-LINK routers so can't say if that's normal, but it sounds like it's just bad UI and nothing to worry about. astral fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Apr 14, 2017 |
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Apr 14, 2017 04:36
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Yep, so far so good! PS4 streams Plex, Steam Link connects perfect 60fps throughput from this PC, and PS3 connected to internet via office router perfectly first time. Thanks a lot, goons!
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Apr 14, 2017 04:51
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I am confused about something. I upgraded my network this morning so it now looks like this:code:Where "A" is 10.0.0.0/30 with the firewall .1 and the AP .2 And "B" is 10.0.1.0/24 I put a static route on the firewall for 10.0.1.0/24 pointing to the AP, the realized that the AP is natting so as far as the firewall is concerned, the entire LAN is seen as 10.0.0.2. Yet when I disabled the static route on the firewall, it broke my connectivity from the LAN. I have no earthly idea why. The FW is running pfSense, the AP is a Linksys EA9500. I really don't want the AP natting, but when I tried enabling RIP on the FW and AP I'd didn't work. So I guess I will end up putting the AP in bridge mode, and flatten the network a bit, but it still troubles me that I can't figure out why disabling that static route broke everything. LongSack fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Apr 16, 2017 |
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Apr 16, 2017 01:51
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Does anyone know the deal with SFP modules for HP Procurve swiches? I have a Procurve v1810 48 port gigabit switch with 4 sfp module spots. Internets tell me I probably have to buy genuine HP SFP modules. I basically want some 10Gb ones. So I am asking if you can use aftermarket/non HP branded SFP modules in these suckers.
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Apr 16, 2017 14:07
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redeyes posted:Does anyone know the deal with SFP modules for HP Procurve swiches? I have a Procurve v1810 48 port gigabit switch with 4 sfp module spots. Internets tell me I probably have to buy genuine HP SFP modules. I basically want some 10Gb ones.
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Apr 16, 2017 14:26
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adorai posted:10 Gbps is going to be SFP+, and likely won't work. But to answer your direct question, in my procurve ZL series switches, I am able to use third party SFPs without issue. Those are large enterprise switches though. Yeah I missed the part where SFP+ was required. I wanted to toss some 10Gb links in my network but sounds like I am SOL with this switch. Still, its pretty nice. GRR :/ this business of getting network links over 1Gbps is very expensive for a home user.. any recommendations?
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Apr 16, 2017 14:43
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redeyes posted:Yeah I missed the part where SFP+ was required. I wanted to toss some 10Gb links in my network but sounds like I am SOL with this switch. Still, its pretty nice. GRR :/ What are you doing on a home network that you need 10gb links for?
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Apr 16, 2017 15:41
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redeyes posted:Yeah I missed the part where SFP+ was required. I wanted to toss some 10Gb links in my network but sounds like I am SOL with this switch. Still, its pretty nice. GRR :/ SFP+ is not that expensive if you don't need a specific brand for compatibility. Finisar is solid too, they're an OEM for some Cisco products.
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Apr 16, 2017 15:44
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n0tqu1tesane posted:What are you doing on a home network that you need 10gb links for? I have a home business actually. Not just torrents and such. I do a lot of disk imaging and large file transfer and 1Gbps is definitely cramping my style. After looking at my HP Procurve V1810 48port switch, I don't think the 4 SFP connections can do anything greater than 2Gbps each. redeyes fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Apr 16, 2017 |
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Apr 16, 2017 16:08
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