|
Luckily it rained for the last 2 days, just gotta make it till Sunday then it's going in my brothers garage.
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2017 19:47
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 29, 2024 14:29 |
|
|
Scott808 posted:I don't disagree with this either. Even using plain water and putting fine scratches in the paint is going to be better than letting bird poo poo sit on the fresh paint. If you just get one of those blue shop paper towels and soak it and let it sit for a minute or two usually the bird poo poo softens up enough so that it can simply be rinsed off.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2017 21:36
|
|
|
I was just out (the neighbors must think I'm crazy) removing bird poo poo using Meguiar's D114. Really amazing product. 128:1 dilution, sprayed it on and the bird poo poo just lifted off like nothing.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2017 10:04
|
|
|
The paint on my integra is a decent medium grey-blue with very fine metal flake. Had enough free time after a quick wash to start with the clay and gently caress is the quarter panel I got to smooth. I can't wait to get the time to do the whole car and properly wax the thing, it's gonna be gorgeous. Megs ultimate compound is a hell of a thing for a quick headlight/taillight job as well. SeaGoatSupreme fucked around with this message at 06:45 on Apr 2, 2017 |
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2017 03:16
|
|
|
Can anyone give a recommendation for a steam cleaner in the ~$100 area? I want to clean my (cloth) seats and carpets.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2017 18:44
|
|
|
The car I just bought has a really nice set of alloy wheels that have a couple of spots where they have corroded a fair bit. I took them to a wheel renovation company who told me that they are diamond cut and that if they restore them to be exactly like they are now, the corrosion might reappear in as little as a few weeks. They recommended I just have them painted instead. Is this actually true or are they talking out of their asses?
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2017 15:17
|
|
|
Grakkus posted:The car I just bought has a really nice set of alloy wheels that have a couple of spots where they have corroded a fair bit. I took them to a wheel renovation company who told me that they are diamond cut and that if they restore them to be exactly like they are now, the corrosion might reappear in as little as a few weeks. They recommended I just have them painted instead. Is this actually true or are they talking out of their asses? rear end talking. The only reason it would appear again that quickly would be if they didn't clearcoat after refinishing.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2017 15:19
|
|
EVERYWHERE 
|
Seminal Flu posted:rear end talking. The only reason it would appear again that quickly would be if they didn't clearcoat after refinishing. Thanks! I'll find someone else to do it then.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2017 15:27
|
|
|
Clean them thoroughly and put some wheel sealer on there, my friend used the Sonax aerosol one on his new wheels and any gunk just rinses off with water.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2017 16:07
|
|
|
The only way to repair corrosion afaik, is to sand out the effected area up to 2000, then buff.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2017 23:33
|
|
|
always be closing posted:The only way to repair corrosion afaik, is to sand out the effected area up to 2000, then buff.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2017 00:03
|
|
|
Has anyone used spraypaint cans from paintscratch.com? I know the thread generally recommends Dr. Colorchip, but I'm getting new side mirrors and they're the wrong color. The paint on the car is pretty rough, so I'm just looking for something that would be ok for a driver. Basically, will this be ok for a couple years, or is it complete poo poo?
|
|
#
?
Apr 12, 2017 03:09
|
|
|
So when applying cleaner wax with a DA buffer do you still use a black pad, or do you use something with just a little bit of cut to it?
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2017 05:45
|
|
|
Im using hex logic pads, and green is the heaviest polishing pad and the one they recommend for those products. You could Always step down the cut depending on paint condition.
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2017 09:35
|
|
|
Two questions: 1. Over the winter some salty water dripped on my car and left a spot in the paint. I tried clay baring today and it didn't get it out. What are my options? 2. Is it silly to put a clear bra on a 2 year old car that already has a few rock chips on the front bumper?
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2017 21:44
|
|
|
1. Have you tried some automotive water spot removers? 2. Not really. You might be able to do it yourself if there are pre-cut kits for your car.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2017 15:31
|
|
|
Just use the Armor All Wash and Wax wipes! I'm pretty sure I make a  face every time I see that commercial. Just rub that bird poo poo into the paint!
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2017 16:11
|
|
|
fknlo posted:Just use the Armor All Wash and Wax wipes! All-natural wholly-organic rubbing compound!
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2017 16:48
|
|
|
Armor All knows there target market, anyone that doesn't know anything about car detailing  Does anyone know of any Rupes Nano alternatives with better pricing ($500.. ouch!)? Manual buffing doesn't count! GentlemanofLeisure posted:Has anyone used spraypaint cans from paintscratch.com? I know the thread generally recommends Dr. Colorchip, but I'm getting new side mirrors and they're the wrong color. The paint on the car is pretty rough, so I'm just looking for something that would be ok for a driver. Basically, will this be ok for a couple years, or is it complete poo poo? I haven't used that specific vendor, but I did use Paint World to buy paint for a piece a trim for my old STI a number of years back (a piece in the bumper that hadn't been secured well after a clear bra installation popped out, so I bought a replacement that came unpainted). Important lesson learned for me was the quality difference between the good 3M/Dupont level primers, paints and clears and the value stuff. Don't get the 'Value/Economy' Kits, spring for the good stuff and the etching primer and you'll be surprised at how well it works (quite well IMO). If my Armor All comment is any indication I'm picky as poo poo about details like this, but with patience and a steady hand got a near OEM finish on that piece of bumper trip with paint from a rattle can. If you spend $70 you'll get at least driver quality, likely better.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2017 02:58
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:Can anyone give a recommendation for a steam cleaner in the ~$100 area? I want to clean my (cloth) seats and carpets. Did you ever find one? I think that's my next big purchase too.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2017 13:25
|
|
|
savesthedayrocks posted:Did you ever find one? I think that's my next big purchase too. Harbor Freight. I have one, makes steam, loud AF. Literally the same one you can find at other shops too, or it was when I bought it. Not like "same shape", but same brand color and everything. It was a McCullogh. May not be there any longer. Once I was using it to steam clean grout in the bathroom and heard a pounding, the fire department was moments from kicking down the door after no response, they had the wrong address. ... it was this one: Home Depot link
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2017 04:56
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:Harbor Freight. I have one, makes steam, loud AF. Literally the same one you can find at other shops too, or it was when I bought it. Not like "same shape", but same brand color and everything. It was a McCullogh. May not be there any longer. I've got this exact one, bought it from HF. It does the job very well. Even used it to get some 40 year old stains out of the headliner.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2017 23:23
|
|
|
Are clay sponge thingies anywhere near as good as real clay? My car has quite a lot of rusted metal particles stuck in the clear coat and I attempted to give clay a go today but it just took so long, I only managed to get the boot and rear bumper done before I gave up.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2017 07:50
|
|
|
CarPro Iron X will get the rail dust off so much easier than claying until your arm falls off. Other brands have something to (chemical guys calls theirs decon something).
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2017 03:38
|
|
|
If you want it 100% decontaminated you'll need to both Iron-X and claying.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2017 14:28
|
|
|
Recently got my first DA (Griot's 6 in) and did my first attempt at paint correction. I can tell this is going to be a long journey before I'm comfortable with the process. No pics because I don't think I really accomplished much. My guess is that I didn't put enough weight on the machine as I was compounding. That's something that doesn't translate well from the videos I've seen. Anyone go to a class or get instruction from someone in person?
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2017 15:52
|
|
|
savesthedayrocks posted:Recently got my first DA (Griot's 6 in) and did my first attempt at paint correction. I can tell this is going to be a long journey before I'm comfortable with the process. Honestly whenever ive put anything more than light pressure ive ended with hollograms. You might be better off trying a more aggressive pad and compound first. Also, Im using chemical guys hex logic pads, which pad should i use across the blend line from a paint repair? Painting a roll pan I welded on and also some holes in the side that I filled.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2017 20:51
|
|
|
savesthedayrocks posted:Recently got my first DA (Griot's 6 in) and did my first attempt at paint correction. I can tell this is going to be a long journey before I'm comfortable with the process. One thing you should do is put a line on the backing plate so that you can see when it's stopped (too much pressure). You should also look up if there is any info regarding the hardness of you paint, since hard paint can take ages to correct if you aren't using aggressive enough product / pad.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2017 09:17
|
|
|
Vaminn posted:CarPro Iron X will get the rail dust off so much easier than claying until your arm falls off. Other brands have something to (chemical guys calls theirs decon something). MrOnBicycle posted:If you want it 100% decontaminated you'll need to both Iron-X and claying. I can't get the exact product over here but I've bought an equivalent product and a clay sponge too for good measure! Have to see how it works later this week.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2017 12:12
|
|
|
I don't have a garage, and there are 3 giant oak trees dropping pollen bombs on mine and my girlfriend's cars. I hose them off and clean them, and it feels so futile when the car is covered in pollen again directly after. On the upside, at least I don't have allergies, I guess.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2017 19:15
|
|
|
MrOnBicycle posted:One thing you should do is put a line on the backing plate so that you can see when it's stopped (too much pressure). You should also look up if there is any info regarding the hardness of you paint, since hard paint can take ages to correct if you aren't using aggressive enough product / pad. Good point about the paint, I need to look into that. The griots' plate that I have has markings, I was just worried about pushing it too hard. In the end, I went with a non aggressive pad and Meg's ultimate compound so I didn't expect much. Better to start slow then go too far with it.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2017 20:00
|
|
|
An "aggressive" non-wool pad + UC should do a lot of work for you. If you were using a finishing pad with UC, I wouldn't be surprised if it wasn't abrasive enough. I was planning on washing my truck for the first time in almost 18 months of ownership this weekend, but  . It's a 2006 Silverado in white that's semi-beat up. I need to wash, clay, get it all nice and shiny, and seal it. Since it stays outside, I'm not particularly worried about getting it perfect, but maybe next weekend. :x
Phone fucked around with this message at 22:34 on May 21, 2017 |
|
#
?
May 21, 2017 22:32
|
|
|
Any recommendations for a headlight restoration kit? Mine are looking a bit foggy.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2017 19:16
|
|
|
Some sandpaper, some more sandpaper, even more sandpaper, a cutting compound, a polishing compound, and some UV protectant.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2017 22:17
|
|
|
Popete posted:Any recommendations for a headlight restoration kit? Mine are looking a bit foggy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gEk8gUrzvw0
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2017 22:45
|
|
|
I'm a little confused by the OP. Do I need clay and both of the compounds? In the store both of the compounds seemed kind of similar. Clay first, then compounds? Where does wax fit in? Also can this be done without a polisher?
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2017 06:01
|
|
|
Red_Fred posted:I'm a little confused by the OP. Do I need clay and both of the compounds? In the store both of the compounds seemed kind of similar. Clay first, then compounds? Where does wax fit in? Wash->clay->compound->polish->wax I guess you could compound and polish by hand but it'd take a good goddam long time. I wouldn't want to do it. What's a good product for matte vinyl? I washed and waxed my car today and figured I'd try meguiars ultimate black thing whatever it's called. Anyway that was a big mistake, went on splotchy and streaky. I ended up getting it off and everything looks fine now but f that stuff.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2017 06:10
|
|
|
fps_bill posted:Wash->clay->compound->polish->wax Thanks. Any recommendations on which Meguiars wax?
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2017 07:24
|
|
|
Post everything you intend to buy or use.
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2017 15:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 29, 2024 14:29 |
|
|
To be perfectly honest, if you've not done any detailing before, Meguiar's "smooth surface" box kit which includes clay, detailing spray, and a small bottle of their "cleaner wax" will give you a cheap all-in-one starter (note: you're "meant" to use the detailer spray as clay lube, don't bother. Use regular mildly soapy water, and save the detailer spray for its own task).
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2017 20:42
|
|