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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:You've already retracted the piston completely? Because if you haven't, a crowbar works nicely if the rotor's being replaced.
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May 2, 2017 01:50
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Wrong thread
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May 2, 2017 02:30
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Is it worth it buying GAP insurance? My insurer (Allstate) doesn't offer it, but I'm still concerned that if something terrible happens and I'm upside down on my loan I could get bit. Anyone know a reputable offerer of GAP insurance? TIA
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May 2, 2017 04:39
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LongSack posted:Is it worth it buying GAP insurance? My insurer (Allstate) doesn't offer it, but I'm still concerned that if something terrible happens and I'm upside down on my loan I could get bit. Anyone know a reputable offerer of GAP insurance? TIA It's largely a matter of how much of a loss you can absorb versus the odds of sustaining it. I've never even considered gap insurance because the risk is low and the potential loss has always been coverable without it. I don't need to be indemnified against every potential problem in life. I'm willing to take the risk and keep the money.
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May 2, 2017 04:53
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Deteriorata posted:It's largely a matter of how much of a loss you can absorb versus the odds of sustaining it. I've never even considered gap insurance because the risk is low and the potential loss has always been coverable without it. I guess watching Russian dashcam video has me feeling paranoid 
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May 2, 2017 05:04
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If you're upside down on a QX56, and you're trading it in for a Civic, and rolling the loans together, you might need gap insurance (Someone actually did this at a dealer I used to work at)
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May 2, 2017 05:18
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God that would be a lovely pair of shoes to walk in.
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May 2, 2017 05:32
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0toShifty posted:If you're upside down on a QX56, and you're trading it in for a Civic, and rolling the loans together, you might need gap insurance 2017 Mustang GT convertible, sorry.
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May 2, 2017 05:48
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I wound up opting for gap, but I knew I'd be upside down on the loan really quick. The dealer was able to roll it into the loan though, I think it added a whopping $200 over the life of the loan.
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May 2, 2017 06:04
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My car pulls to the left on the highway if I let go of the steering wheel, and tread wear on my front left tire is uneven. To me that sounds like it's time for an alignment. Once upon a time with a previous car, I got an alignment at a tire shop. They hosed the car's alignment really bad and they had to realign it 3 times. The alignment was even computer assisted. The car handled like poo poo. That made me put off getting an alignment for a while. Anything I need to know to make sure that they don't gently caress it up? I'm assuming I should steer clear of tire shops?
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May 2, 2017 08:40
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rear end posted:My car pulls to the left on the highway if I let go of the steering wheel, and tread wear on my front left tire is uneven. To me that sounds like it's time for an alignment. If the tires are too worn out (normal wear) or if one of them is worn unevenly, it might be difficult to impossible to actually align it properly.
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May 2, 2017 11:37
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Can I have someone gimme a quick run-through on replacing power steering hoses on a 1992 Buick Roadmaster? They've been leaking pretty good and I've replaced power steering pumps, but never the hoses. I think it works like:
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May 2, 2017 19:06
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I'd throw in "add more fluid as needed" once the engine is running but before you start cranking the wheel back and forth. It may gulp down a bunch of fluid to fill the lines as soon as you start it.
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May 2, 2017 19:22
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2001 Mazda Protege The armature disc on my AC compressor is grinding. I look in there when the engine in on and it looks like it will spin freely for most of a rotation, then catch, grind for a second as it creeps through the hard point, and then spin for another go. When I have the engine off I can reach in there, spin it, and push it through the hard point with my hand and it does seem to be catching at a specific point in its rotation. I sat on this problem for a couple of days and at one point I guess it caught completely and seized the pulley rotor, because I was sitting at a traffic light when it spontaneously let forth with a wicked belt squeal and burned a hole right through that fucker. So I guess my question is where I should go from here in troubleshooting? Is it more likely to be a problem with the clutch or do you suppose the pump in the compressor itself is locking up? It would be really cool if I could just replace this disk or even just loosen it up instead of doing the whole compressor and then worrying about metal shavings in my radiator. For the record, the AC is obviously working poorly but does seem to put out some moderately colder air so I probably haven't burst any coolant lines, yet. EDIT: oh also the dead drivebelt had a pebble embedded in one of the ridges. I don't know, maybe it was subtly pushing the rotor at a certain regular point and gradually warped its axis of rotation? Hard to believe but I mention it for the sake of completeness. Eikre fucked around with this message at 20:48 on May 2, 2017 |
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May 2, 2017 20:44
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How common is it for a dealership to try and just replace a huge chunk of expensive parts instead of hunting down a problem?
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May 2, 2017 22:27
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Pretty common flowchart of parts for dealers
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May 2, 2017 22:40
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Christobevii3 posted:Pretty common flowchart of parts for dealers Figured. I just got quoted $5300 to replace a transmission and clutch in a 2004 manual corolla because there is a fluttering sound when accelerating and the car is in gear.
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May 2, 2017 23:21
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Just curious, why was your first stop at a dealer rather than a transmission specific shop on a 13 year old car? PS take it to a transmission shop
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May 3, 2017 00:17
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1995 F-150, 4.9l 6cylinder, manual transmission, 125k miles. It started running badly and the CEL came on. It idles smoothly, but the rpms surge up and down maybe a couple hundred rpm. At higher rpm, the engine will start a very regular shudder. With a load, it will start bogging under throttle. Fuel pressure is good. Jumped the correct pins, but can't get any codes - the CEL just stays on and won't blink. Any suggestions?
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May 3, 2017 00:18
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joat mon posted:1995 F-150, 4.9l 6cylinder, manual transmission, 125k miles. vacuum leak?
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May 3, 2017 00:30
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wesleywillis posted:If the tires are too worn out (normal wear) or if one of them is worn unevenly, it might be difficult to impossible to actually align it properly. A modern alignment rig uses lasers and reflectors that are attached directly to the wheels. You could get away with an alignment without tires mounted.
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May 3, 2017 01:56
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Gumbel2Gumbel posted:Figured. I just got quoted $5300 to replace a transmission and clutch in a 2004 manual corolla because there is a fluttering sound when accelerating and the car is in gear. Is that a manual transmission? Because that is amazing. You could probably hire your two favorite porn stars to fix your car with new parts and still cost less and get hosed in a way you enjoy. Jesus. Probably just a master or slave cylinder, throw out bearing, clutch, or flywheel. Honestly a decent shop could probably pull it, tell you that day, and have it back for under $1k and more likely around $600-700. Even with a used transmission that is maybe $1500. If an automatic still should be under $2k. Fluttering is most likely worn clutch slipping which is $200 parts and labor so $700ish.
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May 3, 2017 02:24
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5300 Jesus loving Christ
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May 3, 2017 02:25
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joat mon posted:1995 F-150, 4.9l 6cylinder, manual transmission, 125k miles. Elsa posted:vacuum leak?
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May 3, 2017 02:38
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Gumbel2Gumbel posted:Figured. I just got quoted $5300 to replace a transmission and clutch in a 2004 manual corolla because there is a fluttering sound when accelerating and the car is in gear. This probably is the "gently caress off, we don't want to deal with it" price. Take the cost of labor and the most expensive parts normally, multiply it by 150%, give to customer. If they balk and take it somewhere else, you win. If they're batshit enough to say yes, you just sold a job that makes more profit than a line of bullshit like injector cleanings.
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May 3, 2017 03:46
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So the heat really started this week and of course when I go to turn on my A/C I get nothing but warm air and no compressor idle bump. Car is nearly 20 years old and the A/C was pretty weak the last time I used it so I figure it just needs a recharge. Added a can and that's when I see this: That's the low side port on the compressor leaking like crazy. Just a constant flow of bubbles. poo poo. My question is can I just get a new seal and throw it on there or should I go to a shop and have them do a proper vac/recharge. It does blow ice cold for now until all the refrigerant leaks out so the rest of the system seems fine.
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May 3, 2017 03:51
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Elsa posted:vacuum leak? Not that I can detect.
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May 3, 2017 03:53
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I've got an AC issue as well. 2012 Scion xB. Blows hot initially, slowly gets cold after about five minutes but not really cold enough. Checked refrigerant and it's fine in the green. Any ideas? How can I tell if the compressor is hosed? Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 06:17 on May 3, 2017 |
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May 3, 2017 06:14
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Hugh G. Rectum posted:So the heat really started this week and of course when I go to turn on my A/C I get nothing but warm air and no compressor idle bump. Car is nearly 20 years old and the A/C was pretty weak the last time I used it so I figure it just needs a recharge. Added a can and that's when I see this: Vac and recharge. Leaks out are also leaks in.
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May 3, 2017 06:54
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Vac and recharge. Leaks out are also leaks in. Ah kinda figured, just wanted to be sure. Thanks.
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May 3, 2017 10:19
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Thanks for the transmission advice. I went just to see if the dealership experience is as bad as I remember because I'm sort of stuck in another state but in sort of a weird spot: I just got laid off and am doing interviews in a suburb of a city that I used to live in, but my GF moved to because she got a job down here. I don't technically live here yet. All the decent local guys (including the one I trust) are booked up for several days. Is it worth it to go back to the trustworthy general repair guy I sort of know or just find a transmission shop? Also the Trans-axle assembly is $3116.22 on the estimate. As soon as I saw that I laughed.
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May 3, 2017 11:58
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Go to the guy you know and trust. If it is a manual transmission they can 99% handle it. If not they have a relationship with someone they will direct you to or do the transmission stuff once they have it out of the car.
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May 3, 2017 12:58
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Gumbel2Gumbel posted:Also the Trans-axle assembly is $3116.22 on the estimate. As soon as I saw that I laughed. That could actually be the quote for a new factory transmission.
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May 3, 2017 13:35
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joat mon posted:1995 F-150, 4.9l 6cylinder, manual transmission, 125k miles. When's the last time you cleaned or replaced your fuel injectors?
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May 3, 2017 13:43
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Memento posted:That could actually be the quote for a new factory transmission. Yeah it is, you can buy one direct from other dealers for $2100-2300.
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May 3, 2017 13:48
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Wait, you guys expected a dealer to open up his transmission and find the problem?  Even transmission shops don't want to do that, they'd rather slap a reman in its place and charge the same price. A dealer will at least probably use a new or OEM reman unit rather than one rebuilt in the backshop by whichever reformed criminal is working there that week.
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May 3, 2017 15:37
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Preoptopus posted:When's the last time you cleaned or replaced your fuel injectors? Cleaned about 20k miles ago, as part of reviving it from a 5-year sit. Left the battery unhooked all night, CEL still on in the morning, still can't get it to give codes. This morning noticed humming coming from the injectors with key on, engine off, so I think there's an injector that isn't staying closed? Fuel pressure was about 60 psi. Is this on the high side? (Fuel pressure on 1997 F-250 with 7.5l was about 32 psi) Other possibly helpful data: At 70 degrees last night, it took a shot of ether to get it started, and after that didn't need help starting. This morning at 55 degrees, it took three tries with ether for it to keep running and then restart without help.
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May 3, 2017 15:55
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To be fair, there was no way for someone with limited car knowledge like myself to know it is a transmission problem before I went there. A slight fluttering/rattling sound when I accelerated at medium to high speeds is all I had to go on. There are no issues with shifting, no loss of power whatsoever.
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May 3, 2017 15:58
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joat mon posted:Cleaned about 20k miles ago, as part of reviving it from a 5-year sit. 50 to 60 is spec key on engine off 40 to 60 is spec key on engine on. Sucks u can't pull codes. Need to find an obd1 scan tool somewhere. Howdya test vacume? Did you spray carb cleaner or something similar all around the intake and any vacuum line? But that might be more than getting a shop you give you a proper diagnosis. Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 17:46 on May 3, 2017 |
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May 3, 2017 17:39
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joat mon posted:Cleaned about 20k miles ago, as part of reviving it from a 5-year sit. Maybe your MAF connector is unplugged?
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May 3, 2017 17:50
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