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Update on the "Wardflex" CSST issue: I wound up just getting new CSST tubing from home depot (HomeFlex). It's a similar concept with how the fittings mate to the tubing, but this kind has a ring you compress yourself on the tube. I figured I'd rather have something I can get parts for than this distributor-less Wardflex junk. It went together pretty easily, no leaks on the 1st try. Be warned, if you are looking at replacing or doing work to these things, the parts are EXTREMELY expensive. The 25' run was 40 dollars plus ~8-10 per fitting. The tubing actually had a security seal on it. I know because I was considering theft out of spite when I saw the price tag.
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May 21, 2017 23:17
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Is there a lawnmower-type thread? I might put an offer on a flat 1.75 acre property (with deciduous trees randomly placed every 50 feet) and I'm trying to figure out how many thousands of dollars my lawnmower will cost. I love zero turns with lap bars. Looking at 40something inch decks. Any advice or pointers? Should I just buy a Toro Timecutter and move on to the next expensive thing?
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May 22, 2017 16:34
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Two acres hardly seems worth the added cost of a z-turn unless you've got an absolute ton of landscaping stuff to cut around and navigate through, for that acreage I think you'd be better off spending the extra change on a tractor-style mower of higher quality. More HP, fabricated deck, etc. There was just recently (within the last couple pages) some lawnmower chat in the tools thread, starting here I think. More focused on motors, but a few of us chime in about mower brands and such.
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May 22, 2017 17:21
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I have an unused washer/dryer hookup but the previous owners rerouted the drain upstairs for a 2.2cu ft mini set in a coat closet. I'd really like a full size set down here. Can I just put another pvc "Y" in here and keep both washers hooked up? I assume the new inlet will just need to be above the top of the washer to avoid siphoning. 
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May 22, 2017 18:09
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Is there a lawnmower-type thread? I might put an offer on a flat 1.75 acre property (with deciduous trees randomly placed every 50 feet) and I'm trying to figure out how many thousands of dollars my lawnmower will cost. I love zero turns with lap bars. Looking at 40something inch decks. Any advice or pointers? Should I just buy a Toro Timecutter and move on to the next expensive thing? There is a small engines thread in AI but on phone so go hunting  I cut 1.5 acres on a used 42" riding lawnmower. I've borrowed my neighbors 46" zero turn when I had to fix mine and it was defnitely faster but not by a whole lot. I think there are some mower time per acre calcs out there.
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May 22, 2017 18:57
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Is there a lawnmower-type thread? I might put an offer on a flat 1.75 acre property (with deciduous trees randomly placed every 50 feet) and I'm trying to figure out how many thousands of dollars my lawnmower will cost. I love zero turns with lap bars. Looking at 40something inch decks. Any advice or pointers? Should I just buy a Toro Timecutter and move on to the next expensive thing? There is a small engine thread over in AI. Edit: Beaten. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:44 on May 22, 2017 |
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May 22, 2017 19:41
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I've got a quick question. Our guest bathroom has these mounts on the wall, but they suck at holding towels. Are they meant to hold a bar between them? I've looked all over for the hardware but it's elusive.  
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May 22, 2017 19:48
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Robe hooks
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May 22, 2017 20:46
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Butt plugs.
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May 22, 2017 21:16
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Is there a lawnmower-type thread? I might put an offer on a flat 1.75 acre property (with deciduous trees randomly placed every 50 feet) and I'm trying to figure out how many thousands of dollars my lawnmower will cost. I love zero turns with lap bars. Looking at 40something inch decks. Any advice or pointers? Should I just buy a Toro Timecutter and move on to the next expensive thing? thankfully my new lawn is so small that even an electric one is fine (except this one CAN'T GO BACKWARDS WHAT THE gently caress), but coming from a family of farmers with enormous acre+ lawns, get something with a good seat back. or *any* seat back. something where you don't have to expend effort to hold your spine straight the entire time. i've seen people nearly driven to violence at the dealership after mowing their lawn one single time with their shiny new mower
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May 22, 2017 21:49
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SoundMonkey posted:thankfully my new lawn is so small that even an electric one is fine (except this one CAN'T GO BACKWARDS WHAT THE gently caress), but coming from a family of farmers with enormous acre+ lawns, get something with a good seat back. or *any* seat back. something where you don't have to expend effort to hold your spine straight the entire time. I'm just spitballin here but think Herman Miller and Harley Davidson
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May 22, 2017 21:55
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i mention this only because every time my boss mows her < 1/4 acre lawn she's salty as hell all day because she bought a mower whose seat is basically like an old timey school desk seat except with no back
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May 22, 2017 21:58
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So, possibly stupid question to which the correct answer is "Call my landlord/a plumber" but, in the interest of trying all avenues: My washer/dryer isn't draining water correctly. I did the usual of checking the filter and the escape hose but it was both clear. The filter in this case looks pretty much like:  Though obviously in my case its inside the actual machine. On closer examination with the phone camera and torch, I can see that one of the two top most pipes, which appear to connect directly to drum enclosure, has a hair/lint blockage thats stopping water from draining. I blew some compressed air up there and it made the undrained water bubble, and I tried poking it with a long screwdriver and water started to leak out *veeeery slowly* as the head disturbed the hairball. I don't have anything both slim and appropriate enough to grab the blockage and pull it through, nor can I access it from the drum side since the drum is in the way, and a look at google suggests removing the drum is beyond my means and liable to leave me with a broken washing machine. Is there anything further I can do/any inexpensive tools I can pick up to remove this, or should I leave it to the owner/a professional to solve this? I've seen suggestions of using bleach to dissolve hair but I'm not exactly eager to pour bleach into the inner workings of the washing machine. Machine is a Hoover WDM120 which apparently dates back to 2003ish
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May 23, 2017 00:29
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Got a wire coathanger? Or just a spool of reasonably rigid wire? You might be able to fashion a hook out of it and pull the blockage out that way.
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May 23, 2017 01:44
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Got a wire coathanger? Or just a spool of reasonably rigid wire? You might be able to fashion a hook out of it and pull the blockage out that way. This, or maybe one of those little 3-finger grabber things, or they do make purpose built hair snaggers with plastic barbs but I have never tried those and they seem kinda corny.
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May 23, 2017 01:50
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shovelbum posted:This, or maybe one of those little 3-finger grabber things, or they do make purpose built hair snaggers with plastic barbs but I have never tried those and they seem kinda corny. For regular shower/sink drains they work great! 
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May 23, 2017 02:23
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Or get some alligator forceps, they are loving awesome at getting things out of things.
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May 23, 2017 02:25
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H110Hawk posted:For regular shower/sink drains they work great! I agree, they are surprisingly effective ha ha
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May 23, 2017 03:27
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Hey is there a reason why stainless tubing isn't used in domestic water supply? I have only encountered it once, where an engineer was re-plumbing an ancient freighter on his own initiative, using stainless tubing and swagelok fittings. I seem to recall it costing tens of thousands of dollars, is that the main issue?
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May 23, 2017 03:35
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shovelbum posted:Hey is there a reason why stainless tubing isn't used in domestic water supply? I have only encountered it once, where an engineer was re-plumbing an ancient freighter on his own initiative, using stainless tubing and swagelok fittings. I seem to recall it costing tens of thousands of dollars, is that the main issue? It's hideously expensive. Probably the same reason the Swiss are one of the few governments that require their municipal waste drain sytems to be glazed vitreous...inside & out.
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May 23, 2017 04:20
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Does anybody have opinions on covering up pressure treated pine for an outdoor kitchen? The portion that could have water run against it is getting built up on 3" of extra concrete, and using anchors into that even so that it isn't touching the concrete. I still have to wrap the thing up in something. A lot of people here in Texas seem to just use hardibacker board, but it apparently has some cellulose in it and has a limit on how many freezes it can handle. I was planning to tile most sides, stucco the blind side, and do concrete or granite countertops. I'm just trying to figure out what to use to encase it.
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May 23, 2017 07:17
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Conot posted:Is there anything further I can do/any inexpensive tools I can pick up to remove this, or should I leave it to the owner/a professional to solve this? I've had some success with cutting barbs into a long plastic cable tie, as well as the other methods above. If these fail though can you undo the clips holding those pipes onto the sump? Perhaps from underneath if you tip the machine back, then you can reach straight in to remove the clog.
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May 23, 2017 14:13
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:Does anybody have opinions on covering up pressure treated pine for an outdoor kitchen? The portion that could have water run against it is getting built up on 3" of extra concrete, and using anchors into that even so that it isn't touching the concrete. I still have to wrap the thing up in something. A lot of people here in Texas seem to just use hardibacker board, but it apparently has some cellulose in it and has a limit on how many freezes it can handle. I was planning to tile most sides, stucco the blind side, and do concrete or granite countertops. I'm just trying to figure out what to use to encase it. Why do you have to wrap it up again? Cosmetic purpose?
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May 23, 2017 14:36
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Mr. Mambold posted:Why do you have to wrap it up again? Cosmetic purpose? I want to tile the front and sides while stuccoing the back. Edit: I went roaming around Lowes here and found the actual HardiePanels that they would want to use for vertical exterior siding. It's something like $25 per 4x8 so I don't see the big woop. It's just that a lot of people spell out to use HardieBacker, which is the stuff you would generally use inside in bathrooms in the like. I can see in Texas here that we don't have the same kind of cold you'd get elsewhere, but it still freezes. So I'm just put off by using that. Rocko Bonaparte fucked around with this message at 18:13 on May 23, 2017 |
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May 23, 2017 15:33
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cakesmith handyman posted:I've had some success with cutting barbs into a long plastic cable tie, as well as the other methods above. If these fail though can you undo the clips holding those pipes onto the sump? Perhaps from underneath if you tip the machine back, then you can reach straight in to remove the clog. if you can find a hemostat long enough, that's pretty much exactly what you need also great for holding joints
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May 23, 2017 21:16
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Yet another dumb question from yours truly. How many rubber washers are generally on toilet tank bolts? My wife wanted me to replace the washers in ours because they were deteriorating enough that it would sometimes send some black nastiness down into the bowl I bought a pack of them from Ace that had 4 in it. When I disassembled the tank the only washers were on the bolt inside the tank. The bolts have the plastic wingut-like nuts to tighten them down. Same situation with another toilet in the house. I ask because they are still seeping a bit of water and in my googling it looks like there are actually supposed to be 2 on each bolt, one in the tank, one on the outside and that builders typically only use two because a new toilet will usually stay sealed with one? Anything else I should try to do to prevent the seeping around the bolts? The bolts themselves are in good shape and there are no cracks around the holes (that I can see).
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May 24, 2017 16:49
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vulturesrow posted:Yet another dumb question from yours truly. Last time I did mine I used all four. I think it was washer then rubber washer inside, then rubber washer on the outside of the tank, followed by a washer and a nut to make it waterproof, then the plastic nut you're talking about to attach it to the bowl.
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May 24, 2017 17:04
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vulturesrow posted:Yet another dumb question from yours truly. You only need one for each screw and they go inside the tank. The rest are for preventing damage to the porcelain on the outside. Did you put a metal washer between the screw and rubber washer? Those can cause leaks.
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May 24, 2017 17:56
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kid sinister posted:You only need one for each screw and they go inside the tank. The rest are for preventing damage to the porcelain on the outside. Did you put a metal washer between the screw and rubber washer? Those can cause leaks. No metal washers at all.
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May 24, 2017 21:25
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vulturesrow posted:No metal washers at all. Then tighten them down more. Also, tank bolts have metal nuts since you have to tighten them more to make the seal tight.
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May 25, 2017 00:19
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Dumb question. I'm replacing my washing machine lines with some nice braided ones. Any reasons I should/shouldn't put a couple of windings of pipe tape on the threads? I'm leaning no because it might interfere with the seating of the rubber washers, but I'd like some other opinions.
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May 25, 2017 18:47
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Pipe sealant is for pipe threads, no reason to put it on stuff that doesn't seal via a mechanism that requires it.
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May 25, 2017 18:54
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 I have a shed that's in pretty good condition, except for the plywood floor inside (and some rot on the bottom of the siding). The issue is that it was just plopped down on the ground and left to rot. It/the ground has shifted enough too that the doors are basically stuck shut. I dug out the ground in front to get them to open, but ideally I'd just like the whole thing to be slightly off the ground. Can anyone think of a clever way to get this thing off the ground that would cost less than just replacing it with a new shed? I can't think of a scheme that isn't pants on head stupid, but the general thought is 1) Roll this fucker over, throw 2x6 ground contact joists across the bottom, roll it back, replace floor? Problem: Heavy as poo poo. 2) Rip out rotted floor, pour a few small footings, use jacks against the rafters to lift it enough to put in joists or piers beneath it?? Problem: Gonna just separate roof from shed by trying this dumb plan? 3) Ask goons for better idea. Problem: We are all of us goons. For clarification, the construction of the shed is - Base made of 2x4s laid on ground, sheet of plywood, then shed framed on top of that. The plywood and the base are rotted out, everything above is more or less perfect. Slugworth fucked around with this message at 19:25 on May 25, 2017 |
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May 25, 2017 19:18
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kid sinister posted:Then tighten them down more. I tightened them quite a bit and was still getting seepage. I put another set of washers under the tank on the bolts and this seems to have done the trick. And the nuts on a lot of tank bolts now, from what I've seen, are the nylon/plastic wingnut style nuts. Maybe thats the cheapo builder grade option?
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May 25, 2017 19:21
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Slugworth posted:2) Rip out rotted floor, pour a few small footings, use jacks against the rafters to lift it enough to put in joists or piers beneath it?? Problem: Gonna just separate roof from shed by trying this dumb plan? Figuring out a way to jack up the shed from the underside would be the way I'd go. Put out a sheet of plywood and put the jack on that, so it can distribute the weight it's taking over a larger surface area and not sink into the ground, then jack up one side of the shed, shove footings underneath it, lower jack, repeat on other side. Or do you not have anything solid you can use as the contact point for the jack? If so, I'd go with the interior-jack approach, but try to attach the jack to non-rotten portions of the stud walls. Probably use more than one jack to distribute the load a bit, too. I don't think that the shed will hold together if you try to jack it up via the rafters; you'll just end up popping the roof off.
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May 25, 2017 19:37
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Figuring out a way to jack up the shed from the underside would be the way I'd go. Put out a sheet of plywood and put the jack on that, so it can distribute the weight it's taking over a larger surface area and not sink into the ground, then jack up one side of the shed, shove footings underneath it, lower jack, repeat on other side.
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May 25, 2017 20:05
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Slugworth posted:Can anyone think of a clever way to get this thing off the ground that would cost less than just replacing it with a new shed? Do you have free access to a lot of helium or a hot air balloon?
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May 25, 2017 22:36
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Zahgaegun posted:Do you have free access to a lot of helium or a hot air balloon? Or along those lines - can you flood the area and fill it with ping pong balls? It might take a lot
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May 25, 2017 22:54
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Zahgaegun posted:Do you have free access to a lot of helium or a hot air balloon? Helium is crazy expensive. This hot air balloon idea however.. What keeps those things up there, gotta be propane, right? poo poo, I've already got a couple tanks of that, and some tarps.
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May 26, 2017 01:17
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Slugworth posted:poo poo, I've already got a couple tanks of that, and some tarps. well i mean it has been a whole four days since our last bizarre comedy thread got goldmined
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May 26, 2017 01:24
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