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nollij posted:I will testify that RS-3s wear great but were awful in the wet. I am pretty sure roll center, bump steer, and even mild pickup point adjustment is ok in street, but I would have to double check the rules. Or you could ask Jason or Tony.
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May 26, 2017 06:57
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My tyre thoughts are direzza 03Gs and Nanking AR1s. My mates in the uk m3 series run either and love them and all the schirmer boys swear by direzzas.
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May 26, 2017 09:02
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Tire chat...good timing. I'm trying to decide how much rubber I want to stuff under the M3. Car should be under 2400lb (aiming for ~2200) and have 240hp. I can supposedly fit 245's with a little fender rolling but I'm not sure if that's overkill and worth the weight penalty. Wheels will be 17x8.5 to clear the brakes, only aero will be splitter and DTM flap. Plan to run Direzza ZII for now, possibly bump up to the R7 at a later point. Track days for now but will probably do a few WRL/AER/Chump races in the future.
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May 26, 2017 11:52
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Apparently 2017 AR1 are quite different from 2016. They got poor reception in 2016 so they changed them. Jury's still out on the 2017s, but at least people who sell them claim that 2017 is significantly faster than 2016 and faster than Yokohama A048.
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May 26, 2017 12:21
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I'm ordering a set of these http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/tires/nitto/product/submitProductSize.do?pc=40298&tmn=NT01&typ=Competition and eating a poo poo sandwich at the border because it's still cheaper than anywhere else I can buy them in  . The Memorial day sale is on other tires too so you guys can probably get even better deals than me.
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May 26, 2017 19:58
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NitroSpazzz posted:Tire chat...good timing. I'm trying to decide how much rubber I want to stuff under the M3. Car should be under 2400lb (aiming for ~2200) and have 240hp. I can supposedly fit 245's with a little fender rolling but I'm not sure if that's overkill and worth the weight penalty. Wheels will be 17x8.5 to clear the brakes, only aero will be splitter and DTM flap. e30 or e36? e36 245's all the way, run the spacer up front, rears rolled slightly. Don't know the e30 as much so i can't help you there but to say most everyone is running 225's on the e30 chassis, unless it's a widebody/flared s52/54 swap. The jump to r7's is a vastly larger chasm than most people attribute (costs/performance/etc). You really only get ~8 heat cycles (8 sessions or 1 normal DE weekend) out of them before they fall of the pace by 0.5 to 1 second per lap or so. For DE's you're much better off with the BFG R1 or the Toyo RR, cheaper price, many more heat cycles left in them, a bit better behaved at the limit/more slip angle, etc. Be aware that all the DOT slicks lie like mad about width, a 245 hoosier is like a 265 or 275 200TW tire in terms of sidewall to sidewall clearance for shocks/fenders. So if you're running 245 200TW tires, the size for a R7 would be a 225 or so. Still expect some massaging to happen with fenders as you fit them the first time.
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May 26, 2017 20:20
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I've heard that the Toyo RR isn't really picky and just sticks, no 1 magic lap stuff like what Hoosier was offering. I can't remember off hand if Hankook has released anything since the C51/71...
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May 26, 2017 21:05
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I've been happy with 235x40x17 NT01s on my E36 M3. I'm very comfortable with the performance, but they don't last worth a drat. Tread is all but gone after 3 days of HPDE. By day 5, they'll typically be corded. Unless my brother drives, then he'll lock up the brakes on day 2 or 3 and flat spot a tire or two to the cords.
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May 26, 2017 21:30
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SpaceRangerJoe posted:I've been happy with 235x40x17 NT01s on my E36 M3. I'm very comfortable with the performance, but they don't last worth a drat. Tread is all but gone after 3 days of HPDE. By day 5, they'll typically be corded. Unless my brother drives, then he'll lock up the brakes on day 2 or 3 and flat spot a tire or two to the cords. NT01's have a pretty long lifespan compared to other track tires. What section of the tires are you cording? If it's the shoulders, you need more camber/sway bar. Does the car not have functioning abs? Or are your pads too aggressive for the grip the NT01 has?
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May 26, 2017 21:51
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Just finished prepping the S2000 to head to Inde Motorsports Ranch for the weekend. Oil change, braided ss lines, speed bleeders, DTC60 pads back in, RAM mount for the phone, finally bought a GoPro after 30+ trackdays, etc. I pre-ordered one of the Balladesport rollbars last week, so I'm hoping that will be in next month. Also bought a Sparco Evo from Murray which comes next week... but I need to figure out what I'm going to do about harnesses, seat mounts, and HANS. It is my daily driver, after all 
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 22:41 on May 26, 2017 |
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May 26, 2017 22:30
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J4zPECASIrs
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May 26, 2017 23:24
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Jesus gently caress. I didn't know the E46 carried that problem too.
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May 27, 2017 00:18
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crazzy posted:The jump to r7's is a vastly larger chasm than most people attribute (costs/performance/etc). You really only get ~8 heat cycles (8 sessions or 1 normal DE weekend) out of them before they fall of the pace by 0.5 to 1 second per lap or so. For DE's you're much better off with the BFG R1 or the Toyo RR, cheaper price, many more heat cycles left in them, a bit better behaved at the limit/more slip angle, etc. Be aware that all the DOT slicks lie like mad about width, a 245 hoosier is like a 265 or 275 200TW tire in terms of sidewall to sidewall clearance for shocks/fenders. So if you're running 245 200TW tires, the size for a R7 would be a 225 or so. Still expect some massaging to happen with fenders as you fit them the first time. Do the R7s really fall off that fast? SM7s are about a 15 heat cycle tire before they really go off.
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May 27, 2017 02:24
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NitroSpazzz posted:Tire chat...good timing. I'm trying to decide how much rubber I want to stuff under the M3. Car should be under 2400lb (aiming for ~2200) and have 240hp. I can supposedly fit 245's with a little fender rolling but I'm not sure if that's overkill and worth the weight penalty. Wheels will be 17x8.5 to clear the brakes, only aero will be splitter and DTM flap. I'd be looking at NT01s or Maxxis RC1s. I haven't driven the RC1 but the supermiata guys have said nothing but good things about them. NT01s are god damned amazing at being an all round tire that works, starts good, gets better as it wears and is good to the cords. And from pricing I've seen the ZIIs are just as much per tire. If you want to stick with street/rain tires I'd look at the budget options. Falken Azeni RT615k+ and Nexen SUR4 are decent budget options. Lots of chumpcars running the falkens. BlackMK4 posted:Jesus gently caress. I didn't know the E46 carried that problem too. It doesn't...at least not commonly. There aren't even off the shelf kits for that and people have been racing e46s for awhile. I'm curious about the failure mode on that. The E36 RTAB failure is very simple to detect visually, specific welds always tend to crack first. Wonder if the e46 starts to crack where you can't see. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 02:57 on May 27, 2017 |
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May 27, 2017 02:49
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well uh, good cage at least!
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May 27, 2017 03:10
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Crustashio posted:I'd be looking at NT01s or Maxxis RC1s. I haven't driven the RC1 but the supermiata guys have said nothing but good things about them. NT01s are god damned amazing at being an all round tire that works, starts good, gets better as it wears and is good to the cords. And from pricing I've seen the ZIIs are just as much per tire. If you want to stick with street/rain tires I'd look at the budget options. Falken Azeni RT615k+ and Nexen SUR4 are decent budget options. Lots of chumpcars running the falkens. I don't think I saw a top 10 car locally on Azenis. I'm extremely prejudiced though because I bought a set of Azenis and the next week the original Star Specs came out in 14". From FB: quote:I have held off posting this until I got all my ducks in a row and decided how to proceed. This past weekend I was in a crash that resulted from a mechanical failure. The Rear Trailing Arm Pocket failed during qualifying. I believe saw something where he did have a reinforcement; however, it looks like the E46 needs a more thorough replacement solution akin to what's available on E30s.
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May 27, 2017 03:20
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FatCow posted:If you are racing you will get absolutely smoked under braking on a street tire. Wait what? Why would you use an RR as a rain tire? It has two grooves in it. The proper rain tire is the RA1. I've used both in the wet and I have no idea why you'd think it's a good idea to use the RR's in the rain My experience with the RR is I get 6-8 heat cycles before they drop off. I tend to lose 1-2 seconds depending on the track, and I can get 20 or so Heat cycles normally before I cord them. My car is 3190lbs with driver. Spec Miata folks have reported similar drop off and tire life. If I was looking for a tire with good life and minimal drop off I'd be looking at the Maxxis RC1. The only reason I use the RR is because it's the spec tire for my series.
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May 27, 2017 05:06
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Everything I've heard from people who use the RR for their series is that the first few cycles are garbage, but it's rock solid from there on out until right before you start seeing cords peep through. No "magic lap" of Ho-Hos, just incredibly reliable. Outside of NASA having a deal with Toyo, I think it was a way to rein in costs because buying sticker Hoosiers every weekend for just a shot at the top 10 in the SM field is a massive barrier to entry. The RA1 (and R888 and NT01 considering that they're all cut from the same cloth) is at least 10 years old at this point, and driving in the rain is less dependent on tread pattern as it is compound temperature range.
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May 27, 2017 05:33
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Phone posted:Everything I've heard from people who use the RR for their series is that the first few cycles are garbage, but it's rock solid from there on out until right before you start seeing cords peep through. No "magic lap" of Ho-Hos, just incredibly reliable. Outside of NASA having a deal with Toyo, I think it was a way to rein in costs because buying sticker Hoosiers every weekend for just a shot at the top 10 in the SM field is a massive barrier to entry. Hah. That is the experience that exactly no one I know has ever had. Between multiple series and cars. We saw less of a drop in times using shaved RA1's compared to the RR's, although the RA1s were slower overall. The front running Spec Miata guys here start using the RRs as practice tires after 6 heat cycles. I pretty much do the same. So are you trying to say the RA1 is not a good rain tire?
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May 27, 2017 06:04
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I'm just saying that the RA1/R888/NT01 are all old and have been easily surpassed by newer tires in both the 200TW space and dedicated slick space.
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May 27, 2017 06:11
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FatCow posted:Do the R7s really fall off that fast? SM7s are about a 15 heat cycle tire before they really go off. Define "fall off"? In my experience, after about 3-4 heat cycles they won't get up to optimum temperature anymore, but that doesn't mean they're dead, just not as fast. I don't have any data on how many heat cycles until they're slower than lesser tires. I'm thinking about trying to play with some of those tire treatments on the set I have that's about 15 heat cycles in to see what happens since otherwise they're garbage.
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May 27, 2017 15:51
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I drive a BBW posted:Wait what? Why would you use an RR as a rain tire? It has two grooves in it. The proper rain tire is the RA1. I've used both in the wet and I have no idea why you'd think it's a good idea to use the RR's in the rain Sorry, meant RA-1. Too much RR chat.
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May 27, 2017 16:08
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mekilljoydammit posted:Define "fall off"? In my experience, after about 3-4 heat cycles they won't get up to optimum temperature anymore, but that doesn't mean they're dead, just not as fast. Let's say 1s on a 2min course
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May 27, 2017 16:18
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FatCow posted:Let's say 1s on a 2min course I'll get back to you when either my dad or I are consistent enough for me to have data on that. There's a reason I'm talking in terms of getting up to temperature or not.
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May 27, 2017 20:00
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Aww yeah, new safety gear.   Not sure I get the complaints about difficulty turning your head with the hans, but I guess I'll see on Monday.
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May 27, 2017 20:57
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The only issue I have with mine is trying to do the window net up on my own. But I've got a HALO seat so there's no reason to turn my head much on track.
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May 28, 2017 02:21
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mekilljoydammit posted:I'll get back to you when either my dad or I are consistent enough for me to have data on that. There's a reason I'm talking in terms of getting up to temperature or not. Anecdote - practice session tonight. Measured after a cooldown lap and drive through the paddock, the R7s (this set has at least a dozen sessions on it) were at between 135 and 160F. Going to try to get real temperatures tomorrow - Hoosier says they're supposed to be at 180-200 or so but like I said, who knows how much they cooled down. Car's about 4 seconds off lap record for class - 1:25.x vs 1:21.2 at Blackhawk Farms.
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May 28, 2017 02:21
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TrueChaos posted:Aww yeah, new safety gear. Sweet new gear! I got a new Simpson Bandit for hpde1 and it's going to be awesome!
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May 28, 2017 03:43
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So I got my new to me and resealed engine in my spec miata and everything buttoned up for the race weekend yesterday. Fired up the engine to warm it up then do an oil change to the good oil, loving thing is ticking then starts knocking. So there goes my race weekend and possibly my short 3 race season I was planning. I'm going to call the local (3hrs away) "pro" engine builder on tuesday about a bottom end rebuild and checking out or rebuilding the head too. Hopefully it won't be crazy expensive. Otherwise It's $6500 for a pro motor next year but that should last a few years.
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May 28, 2017 08:00
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crazzy posted:NT01's have a pretty long lifespan compared to other track tires. What section of the tires are you cording? If it's the shoulders, you need more camber/sway bar. Does the car not have functioning abs? Or are your pads too aggressive for the grip the NT01 has? ABS doesn't work. I'm pretty sure it's a bad pump, or more likely the wiring in the pump. It's on the to-do list. I can drive and manage to not lock them up, so I just wasn't in a hurry to fix it. The outer edge on the front tires goes first. I put a big Ground Control bar up front (from a stock bar), but I've only driven about 15 minutes on track since I put it on. It helped a lot with mid/late corner understeer, so that might help tire wear too. I run as much camber as I can, usually 3.5-3.8 degrees front.
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May 28, 2017 22:36
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Both days at Inde Motorsports Ranch went well, though I did have my first ever track spin, turn 14 CCW. Uphill, tight left hander, decreasing radius. I was trying to get the car to rotate as I'd been having issues pushing to the outside, so I tried it in 2nd instead of 3rd and managed to do what I'd intended, however the track leveled out during the time I was sideways and the back went too far to save. Worked out fine, good experience. No gopro since it died earlier  Next to last lap of the last session on the second day.Was also a passenger in another S2000 that pushed the front at turn 21 CW, put two tires off, and spun us across the track and into the gravel somewhere around 90mph. Ended up about 6ft from the wall.......yeah, no. I think I'll be more choosey on whom I ride with now. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 02:12 on May 29, 2017 |
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May 29, 2017 02:03
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Did my first ever race on the weekend. Then a few more. First time ever really driving FWD at full pace. Need to work on basically everything but I didn't have any contact or put 4 off, so I was happy. And the car works like a loving top. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJQK4knRKIs
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May 29, 2017 23:32
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BlackMK4 posted:Just finished prepping the S2000 to head to Inde Motorsports Ranch for the weekend. Oil change, braided ss lines, speed bleeders, DTC60 pads back in, RAM mount for the phone, finally bought a GoPro after 30+ trackdays, etc. As long as you're not going to be able to hit your head on the roll bar I think keeping the stock 3-point in would be fine. Then use harnesses + hans on track. And if you need somewhere to get a harness let me know. jamal fucked around with this message at 23:57 on May 29, 2017 |
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May 29, 2017 23:53
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jamal posted:As long as you're not going to be able to hit your head on the roll bar I think keeping the stock 3-point in would be fine. Then use harnesses + hans on track. And if you need somewhere to get a harness let me know. I will. Thank you, I appreciate it. Crustashio posted:Did my first ever race on the weekend. Then a few more. First time ever really driving FWD at full pace. Need to work on basically everything but I didn't have any contact or put 4 off, so I was happy. And the car works like a loving top. gently caress yeah. What track is that?
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May 30, 2017 00:14
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BlackMK4 posted:I will. Thank you, I appreciate it. http://www.atlanticmotorsportpark.com/ Only roadrace track in atlantic canada. It's a bit run down now since it was built in the 70s, but it's technical and fun. Also very difficult to be consistent on. Re: harness. If you're solo at trackdays, spend the money and get something good with an easy adjustment. I have gforce belts and they're impossible to get the lap belt tight on my own. I've sat in cars with schroth enduros are those are really easy to get tight. I've heard good stuff about their other belts too. And do not touch the sparco 04837 6pt hans belt. Tried to install that in a friends racecar and gave up. They returned it and also got a schroth enduro.
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May 30, 2017 00:42
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Harness chat, try to find something with lap belts that you pull up/in to tighten or at a minimum have the adjustment at the buckle, otherwise it's very difficult to tighten solo. I picked up a OMP endurance harness and it looks like it should work really nice, even has the narrowed down shoulder belts for HANS.
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May 30, 2017 11:43
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Really? A Go Fund Me for a new safety gear? Is it just me or is this being hugely overused now? Glad the cage clearly held up to the worst-case scenario.
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May 30, 2017 12:18
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Sparco has a newer version where the adjusters are right at the buckle, which should be easier to tighten. http://www.sparcousa.com/product/6pt-hans-endurance-c-2017 Looks like all OMP's lap belts are "pull up," such as this one http://www.ompamerica.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_37_104/products_id/147 That OMP belt is in stock, looks like I'd have to special order the sparco or omp's fancy belts like this one http://www.ompamerica.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_37_104/products_id/666
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May 30, 2017 18:14
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Was able to track down the invoice from my harness, it's this one: http://www.ompamerica.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_37_104/products_id/569 Adjustments at the buckle, should be a big improvement from the one we had in the old enduro car.
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May 30, 2017 18:36
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jamal posted:I am pretty sure roll center, bump steer, and even mild pickup point adjustment is ok in street, but I would have to double check the rules. Or you could ask Jason or Tony. I sent an email to the "racesteward" email account. We will see if I get a reply.
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May 30, 2017 19:39
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