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Auto trans fluid is usually reddish/clear so it's less distinct than motor oil. If it's black, you have issues. The one in the pic looks like it's been wiped off/sitting out for a while, it should be more obvious than THAT.
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May 26, 2017 22:00
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monsterzero posted:Stupid question: how bad are late-90's -2000 era gas powered Dodge Rams? I know they sold a poo poo ton of them, but there are way fewer for sale than Ford/Chevys. I owned a 97 ram 1500 from 2001 to 2016. In the first 5 years it went thought 3 transmissions. The fourth transmission had some ~modifications~ and lasted the remaining years without issue. The good : 5.2 engine ran great with little to no maintenance. It did have a habit of the injectors getting clogged and it idling like poo poo if I parked it for a month or so. But driving for 20 min or so always cleared it up. THE BAD: transmission issues, if its leaking at all run away from it. The BAD: Interior dash and plastics turned brittle after about 3 years. good luck finding one that does not look like a war zone. THE BAD: this is the only car I have had the got a crack in the plastic fuel cell. what the hell. gently caress you dodge. THE kinda BAD: Antilock brakes were front only on all the models I was aware of. Not terrible, but not great either. THE BAD: If it somehow has not been repainted, the clearcoat loves to disappear rapidly. The BAD: rear end went out while my wife was driving about 40 MPH on the highway. Must have been pretty exciting for her. This was then the truck has less than 150k miles and less than 6 o 7 years old. I do have to say it was comfortable truck that was easy to work on. After I turned it into my work truck, I beat the poo poo out of it for all of the bad things it had done to me, and it just kept right on ticking. I say you buy it and start a thread............
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May 26, 2017 22:07
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scuz posted:Well mystery frickin' solved, I guess. Thanks for chiming in! Out of curiosity, what sort of transmission do you have? Ours has the E4OD and for the life of me I have no idea how to read the dipstick: Sorry, mine's a manual.
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May 26, 2017 22:16
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I did a dumb stupid thing. On vacation in the UK with a diesel Vauxhall Astra. Gauge was at about a quarter full. Dumped in around 15 liters of unleaded (Why is the god damned handle green like diesel is in the states!?) before noticing, then topping off with about 15l of diesel. Carried on because gently caress it we have places to be and it ain't my car. Hesitated a fair bit under load for a while, drove around 100 miles then managed to squeeze another 10l of diesel in. Ran better after this. Still hesitated under high load/gear but nothing awful. Stopped two more times and put 5l of diesel in each time. The car's running almost normal now. Drove about 250 miles now since it happened. Bullet dodged? Gonna explode tomorrow? We still have lots of driving to do.
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May 26, 2017 23:35
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I'm gonna have to park my car for a month. No garage available. I'm thinking of getting a car cover to protect the car from acidic bird poo poo. The internet says all car covers are Hitler reborn because they gently caress up your paint by rubbing dust blah blah blah. The decent ones are all $200+ not counting shipping. Is there any way around this?
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May 27, 2017 00:58
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rear end posted:I'm gonna have to park my car for a month. No garage available. I'm thinking of getting a car cover to protect the car from acidic bird poo poo. The internet says all car covers are Hitler reborn because they gently caress up your paint by rubbing dust blah blah blah. The decent ones are all $200+ not counting shipping. Is there any way around this? Uh, you could look for a storage unit or one of those warehouses where people park their boats/RVs indoors. Maybe you could get a decent rate since it might be off-season and short term?
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May 27, 2017 01:02
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Boys who love boys
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Also will one month not being driven really harm your car's paint enough to warrant a $100+ solution? They are made to withstand the elements, many people never wash their cars.
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May 27, 2017 01:05
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I would get a tarp and some poles.opengl128 posted:Bullet dodged? Gonna explode tomorrow? We still have lots of driving to do. Any damage that could have been done has already been done. Either drive it normally or if you’re really concerned about it exploding, return it without any more driving and make it someone else’s problem. Platystemon fucked around with this message at 01:24 on May 27, 2017 |
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May 27, 2017 01:11
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monsterzero posted:Uh, you could look for a storage unit or one of those warehouses where people park their boats/RVs indoors. Maybe you could get a decent rate since it might be off-season and short term? Called a few of them but their rates were ridiculous. Kinda slipped my mind to go look for other warehouses actually, so thanks for the reminder! Michael Scott posted:Also will one month not being driven really harm your car's paint enough to warrant a $100+ solution? They are made to withstand the elements, many people never wash their cars. I dunno man. The place I'll park the car in has lots of trees. Birds like to sit and poo poo. I don't think clear coat is meant to withstand bird poo poo for an entire month. Platystemon posted:I would get a tarp and some poles. Not An Option®. ass fucked around with this message at 02:04 on May 27, 2017 |
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May 27, 2017 01:59
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Disagreed, a month of bird crap is fine for industrial clearcoat. If you're really worried, spend $40 or whatever your regional rate is to get a hand wax at a car wash/detailer, or if you're cheap or like that sort of thing buy some wax and do it yourself. That will def withstand a month. I'm telling you, my buddy said he hasn't washed his car since he bought his Honda Fit 3 years ago (doesn't care about cars, just is a necessity for work, like 90% of people), parks outside 100% of the time, and the clearcoat is fine. Guess rain keeps the crap from piling up. Car clearcoat is like the same stuff that keeps paint on buildings, it doesn't fail after a month. Keep in mind this advice applies to normal economy cars, not collector or ultra-expensive vehicles. What do you drive anyway? I say all this but I am renting a garage on Craigslist for my delicate babby. Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 03:02 on May 27, 2017 |
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May 27, 2017 02:44
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opengl128 posted:I did a dumb stupid thing. You'll be fine. Worst case, you've hosed some seals or sensors, but it's a hire car and if it does go bang, it's got a tank full of diesel and you have receipts showing that you bought diesel. spog fucked around with this message at 10:12 on May 27, 2017 |
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May 27, 2017 10:06
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Michael Scott posted:Disagreed, a month of bird crap is fine for industrial clearcoat. If you're really worried, spend $40 or whatever your regional rate is to get a hand wax at a car wash/detailer, or if you're cheap or like that sort of thing buy some wax and do it yourself. That will def withstand a month. Yeah I'm definitely going to wax it. It's long overdue. I'm pretty sure paint stains occur due to bird droppings constantly. Your friend doesn't care about his car, I do. I'm assuming his car also white? It doesn't rain in summer where I live. It's sunny and dusty. I drive a dark colored Dodge Charger, but it doesn't need to be a Lamborghini for me to care about my car's paint.
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May 27, 2017 13:36
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Holy poo poo just wax it and you'll be 100% fine. My cars are both primarily spray paint and I park under a locust tree. A good wax lasts a few months, especially without rain. Bird poo poo comes right off. They don't stain. It sounds like you've made up your mind already on an answer, but came here just to practice defending that answer under the pretext of a question. JFC
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May 27, 2017 17:31
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Michael Scott posted:Disagreed, a month of bird crap is fine for industrial clearcoat. No, not it is absolutely loving not fine. Bird poo poo does horrific things to paint, virtually instantly. Car covers will contribute to microscratches, but those can be buffed out. Bird poo poo, not so much. Car cover and deal with the fixable defects later. It is if you're keeping your car indoors that I think car covers do more harm than good.
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May 27, 2017 17:34
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Out of curiosity what year is the Charger? Also lol paul walker. You think John Q Public washes their car more than once every couple months? If bird poop did damage to modern cars you'd see millions with shoddy paint. Maybe over the process of years parked outside vs. years parked in a garage you would start to notice a difference in paint quality, before I think you'd be hard pressed to tell in a blind test with both buffed and waxed before the test. Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 17:52 on May 27, 2017 |
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May 27, 2017 17:49
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So, whoever did the oil on my dad's car last REALLY tightened the oil pan plug (2013 Accent). To the point where it wasn't moving at ALL. Any suggestions to get that thing to move?
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May 27, 2017 18:25
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Longest breaker bar you got and whack it with a hammer, and pray that the plug got messed up instead of the threads in the pan. Get a new drain plug if you haven't already. Shock loads are better at breaking stuff loose, just leaning on it is liable to snap the shank or round off the head.
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May 27, 2017 18:37
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Holy poo poo just wax it and you'll be 100% fine. I didn't really make up my mind, and I can now see how my post might have sounded defensive. That wasn't my intention, I apologize. RIP Paul Walker posted:No, not it is absolutely loving not fine. Bird poo poo does horrific things to paint, virtually instantly. Yep, sounds like this is the only way to go. Michael Scott posted:Out of curiosity what year is the Charger? 2014.
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May 27, 2017 18:38
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iospace posted:So, whoever did the oil on my dad's car last REALLY tightened the oil pan plug (2013 Accent). Agreed about the shock load and have a game plan ready in case it's hosed
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May 27, 2017 18:43
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Yeah, I gave up on it today (I work in an hour). It's approaching the point where it should be changed, but doesn't have to be done yesterday, thank gods.
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May 27, 2017 19:01
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Michael Scott posted:Also lol paul walker. You think John Q Public washes their car more than once every couple months? If bird poop did damage to modern cars you'd see millions with shoddy paint. ...but that's also why John Q Public drives around in a filthy car with lovely paint that when they actually decide to wash it they just make it worse by using a local swirl-o-matic wash or decide that they'll manually induce the swirls by using sponges they drop on the ground / the local wash bay brush.
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May 27, 2017 20:20
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Exciting new MIL on my 2002 Jeep Wangler 4.0 today! It was idling low (around 500-600 RPM) with strong vibrations, then the light turned on. I pulled the code, and it shows P0133 Oxygen Sensor Slow Response. I replaced the spark plugs and did an oil change two weeks ago, but I can't see how that would be related (unless I damaged the O2 sensor wire). Does anyone else see any connection, or should I just check the wire, check the connector, and replace the sensor if nothing else looks damaged?
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May 27, 2017 20:20
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Michael Scott posted:
To your point, I've seen bird poo poo do far more damage to clean paint than I have dirty paint. But if you truly believe that bird poo poo won't damage automotive paint, I don't know what to tell you.
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May 27, 2017 20:58
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RIP Paul Walker posted:To your point, I've seen bird poo poo do far more damage to clean paint than I have dirty paint. It's Michael Scott - you can't tell him anything, but he will keep posting alternative automotive facts no matter what. This is someone who kept advising people in the AI meets BFC thread that buying former rentals was a good idea, even as he was piling repairs into the dumpster fire of a rental he bought.
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May 27, 2017 21:26
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I have owned neary forty cars since 1978, at least eight makes, with paint jobs of every conceiveable type and condition. Not once has bird poo poo damaged the finish, including the giant load of gull guano that was the size of a fried egg and the consistency of dried oatmeal, with fish bones in it, baking in the seaside sun for two days. Eggs/albumin, yes. Birdshit: no.
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May 27, 2017 21:52
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Motronic posted:It's Michael Scott - you can't tell him anything, but he will keep posting alternative automotive facts no matter what. TBH, he seems to know more than some of his harsher critics.
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May 27, 2017 22:03
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Bird poo poo chat: my car has single-stage paint (JD blitz black) and I've never noticed any difference in the finish after cleaning it off.
Geoj fucked around with this message at 22:09 on May 27, 2017 |
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May 27, 2017 22:06
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I know my tundra has a refrigerant leak. I know where it is, because I heard it hiss when I bumped the cap with my hand while changing the spark plugs last winter. Here's a picture of the suspect port. Note that it's got some paint marks and signs of oil leakage, so I don't think I'm the first one to have been here. I reached down in with a valve core tool and tightened it up a bit and waited until now to check on the charge. The AC feels too cold, like it's going to ice the evaporator but it hasn't yet. So that brings on my questions. I put a brand new serpentine belt on and figured I would at least look at it. I hosed with it a bit last night and something struck me as odd. It was about 80F out and 60% humidity. The low side pressure at idle was down into the teens. Like 16/200 or something like that. The low pressure lines were icing. I added refrigerant thinking I would just do my normal charge to 30ish on the low side, but the high side kept shooting up fast. It got up to about 300ish and I stopped before something hosed up. By this point the engine was fully warmed up. I tried it again this morning. Temp was 75, humidity 90%. Engine fully warmed up in the garage.  Vents condensing from humidity.  It's still way too high on the high side but low side looks closer to normal. So I took it out and sprayed the condenser with the garden hose. High side immediately looked normal. Low side a bit low and it started short cycling.  The truck doesn't have an electric fan. Am I seeing overcharge, a bad fan clutch, or a clogged txv? Opinions welcome. Here's final vent temps:  It works for now, no strange noises, I'm tempted to just leave it but I think something's up.
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May 28, 2017 02:00
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I have a stupid question about a car noise. 2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS. Whenever I start up the car there's an ear-splitting squealing noise. So, I replaced both serpentine belts (it was overdue). But the squealing sound is still there. Observe (be warned- the squealing noise is loud)! The noise happens when I start up the engine. And also when I change and move into the reverse gear. But when I'm cruising along, the sound goes away. When I replaced the belts, I tightened the tensioners so there's 1/4 inch of slack, which is what my Haynes manual recommended. But I also probably didn't do a very good job measuring the slack. What could be causing this squealing? Maybe I need to tighten the belts some more?
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May 28, 2017 02:37
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melon cat posted:I have a stupid question about a car noise. 2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS. Whenever I start up the car there's an ear-splitting squealing noise. So, I replaced both serpentine belts (it was overdue). But the squealing sound is still there. Observe (be warned- the squealing noise is loud)! Yeah, tighten that poo poo a bit more.
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May 28, 2017 02:57
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melon cat posted:I have a stupid question about a car noise. 2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS. Whenever I start up the car there's an ear-splitting squealing noise. So, I replaced both serpentine belts (it was overdue). But the squealing sound is still there. Observe (be warned- the squealing noise is loud)! If you've been driving the car for a while (say, more than 10 minutes and everything is up to operating temperature), shut the engine off and start it back up do you get the squeal again? Could be a shot tensioner/idler bearing that makes noise when cold but settles down once it warms up.
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May 28, 2017 03:38
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melon cat posted:I have a stupid question about a car noise. 2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS. Whenever I start up the car there's an ear-splitting squealing noise. So, I replaced both serpentine belts (it was overdue). But the squealing sound is still there. Observe (be warned- the squealing noise is loud)! It could be that the pulleys are glazed or have oil/contaminant on them. If they're tightened to spec, try spraying them with belt dressing or a water-based degreaser (like Zep orange, properly diluted) and see if the sound abates. The belts are loosest when cold & tighten as they heat up, so the squeal would typically be most severe at start-up..
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May 28, 2017 03:47
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rdb posted:The truck doesn't have an electric fan. Am I seeing overcharge, a bad fan clutch, or a clogged txv? Opinions welcome. I'm no ac expert, but I'd look at anything related to airflow over the condenser first. (fan clutch, fan shroud, anything blocking airflow, etc). Does the engine run warm at idle?
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May 28, 2017 07:08
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No, the engine doesn't appear to run warm at idle according to the gauge. I can pull out a scan tool and verify. I should mention that I started the truck at 8:25am so going by the time stamps it's plenty warmed up. The fan turns, and the air vent temp is ok at idle but the pressures don't look right. The manifold gauges have Bluetooth, I could check while I'm driving but I don't want to risk it. Don't think I would be able to shut the hood. Come to think of it I do have a large fan mounted to the wall in the garage. Maybe trying that is the next step. The AC condenser in the truck is combined with the trans cooler. The trans cooler is 6" or so on top and the bottom 20" is condenser. Weird setup, especially with a plain clutch fan only. I checked prices and a new clutch+water pump is $170. A txv is $10 but it's like trying to change a heater core in a Volvo from what I can tell.
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May 28, 2017 08:41
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rdb posted:I know my tundra has a refrigerant leak. I know where it is, because I heard it hiss when I bumped the cap with my hand while changing the spark plugs last winter. Here's a picture of the suspect port. Note that it's got some paint marks and signs of oil leakage, so I don't think I'm the first one to have been here. Some bird poo poo got in there and you are completely hosed
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May 28, 2017 09:07
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Does the fan immediately turn on when you turn on the A/C? I'm not experienced with Toyota, but even the clutch-only fans in our old ambulances immediately spin up (not always lock) when turning on the A/C switch.
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May 28, 2017 09:11
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Wait what, bluetooth ac gauges?  Tell me more about this.
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May 28, 2017 09:21
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Testo model 550. I think I got them for low $200s as refurbs. I decided to go that route for data logging and compatibility with 60 different refrigerants. Hoses were extra and make sure you purge them first. So far they have been great but I have only used them 3 times. Once on my old R22 AC, once on the chiller at work after someone decided to treat the cooling tower water with pool chlorine rather than call in the right people, and now on the truck. I have the EPA 608 license you can get online so technically I shouldn't have even hooked up to the home AC or 26t chiller but I didn't do much other than say it's good or it's totally hosed.
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May 28, 2017 13:22
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Does the fan immediately turn on when you turn on the A/C? No, it doesn't seem to change the amount that it spins. It just spins a bit like normal. I don't have the balls to try to stop it to see if it's locked but I assume it's not because it doesn't roar while leaving a stop. I'm not sure how it would either because their is nothing electric about it, it's just a plain old oil filled clutch on the shaft of the engine water pump. That's the root of what's confusing to me. Toyotas method says to extract, vacuum, and charge by weight. No topping off. This may be the reason my high side pressure is off, because it's designed that way?
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May 28, 2017 13:29
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Just a follow up on my Elantra's squeaking sound. Fixed it! I had to:wesleywillis posted:Yeah, tighten that poo poo a bit more. Thanks for suggesting fixes on it, guys. melon cat fucked around with this message at 17:03 on May 28, 2017 |
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May 28, 2017 16:54
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