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With how cheap and available replacement harnesses are, it's not worth the trouble loving around in a junkyard. Metra (Edited because apparently the Scosche reverse harness doesn't have a dimmer wire?) Lowclock fucked around with this message at 12:10 on May 28, 2017 |
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May 28, 2017 11:56
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Perfect. So that's basically what the OEM one would have looked like, so I: cut the current splices 1:1 wire that back matching the OEM color to the adapter color Then proceed as a normal install Thanks for the help!
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May 28, 2017 18:16
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So I just got a 16 Corolla LE with basic entune system which isn't that great. Is anyone using one of those Android head unit? Been looking at some joying units and seems like it would be pretty neat to have.
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May 28, 2017 18:27
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Does anybody know of a decent head unit that: - Doesn't sound like trash - has an AUX or BT - Doesn't look like a rave on the dash And I do mean something that blends in with a standard black plasticy dash. I want an AUX in my Rover but it's seeming unlikely to mod it. Alternatively, does anyone have some way of obtaining obscure wiring diagrams for this XQE-000170PMA and XQE-000160PMA head unit? This add-on here that supposedly works. I'd like to see if I can mash together something similar. http://www.discountcarstereo.com/FLROV-AUXDMXV.1.html
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May 28, 2017 18:47
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Reacon posted:Does anybody know of a decent head unit that: Continental makes a range of HUs designed to blend into mid 90's German designs. Might have to import them yourself if you are in the US though? 
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May 28, 2017 21:44
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I currently drive a 2006 Toyota Corolla (color is blue with rust highlights). It has an in-dash 6 CD changer from the factory, but it basically never gets used. Shortly after I bought the car (2011) I installed an iPod adapter that allowed me to plug in an iPod and control it through the buttons on the radio, with artist/track name display and everything. That was great for a while but I've pretty much moved on to streaming via my Android phone these days. The adapter also has a regular aux in, so that's what I've been using, but I think it's time for an upgrade. Ideally I'd get an Android Auto head unit, but spending $500 or so on this car seems kind of not worth it. I've seen a lot of head units with touchscreens that tout App Control or something similar, will that let me fire up Google Play Music and control it through the head unit? And if that's not possible, what solution would you recommend? At minimum, I want to see the track title and artist, and be able to skip songs from the head unit, rather than the phone. I assume replacing the head unit means losing my 6 CD changer, that's fine, but I guess I still want a CD player, as I get the feeling there's not a huge price difference in units with and without CD players. Thanks for any advice.
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May 28, 2017 23:32
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savesthedayrocks posted:Perfect. So that's basically what the OEM one would have looked like, so I: The one reverse harness I got had the same wiring colors as aftermarket harnesses, not the car's OE colors.
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May 29, 2017 00:06
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Humerus posted:I currently drive a 2006 Toyota Corolla (color is blue with rust highlights). It has an in-dash 6 CD changer from the factory, but it basically never gets used. Shortly after I bought the car (2011) I installed an iPod adapter that allowed me to plug in an iPod and control it through the buttons on the radio, with artist/track name display and everything. That was great for a while but I've pretty much moved on to streaming via my Android phone these days. The adapter also has a regular aux in, so that's what I've been using, but I think it's time for an upgrade. Probably the cheapest and easiest way to get playback controls and track info on the head unit is via Bluetooth.
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May 29, 2017 01:30
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Humbug posted:Continental makes a range of HUs designed to blend into mid 90's German designs. Might have to import them yourself if you are in the US though? It... It's beautiful. Thank you.
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May 29, 2017 02:04
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Reacon posted:Does anybody know of a decent head unit that: On this note, why the gently caress is there this huge void between "absolute dogshit calculator display" and "1080P hi-res LCD touch screen"? why cant we have a sensibly sized small LCD panel AND face buttons? its loving madness! I had an Alpine IDA-X100 in my old car and while it had a whole raft of problems, it had a nice bright, contrasty full color LCD. Now I have a Pioneer FX875BT and While its nice that I can customise the illumination to match the other lighting in the new car, the display is really hard to read in sunlight, and invisible with polarised sunglasses on, unless you set the display to use the White lighting (which is actually a blueish gray tone) and yeah it has some retarded Mixtrax thing that makes all your music mix and crossfade and adds effects like you're in a night club. because you know, you favorite tracks have never been ruined by an rear end in a top hat MC yelling poo poo and playing airhorn.wav over the top of it constantly. be nice if Continental made a double din like that one above with even a dot matrix display or something.
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May 29, 2017 07:43
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Up until fairly recently, Blaupunkt made some fairly sedate looking head units. But looking at their website now, it looks like all of their single DINs now come with raves, and their double DINs are all touchscreen.  Their New Jersey 220 BT can pass for a newer stock GM double din stereo from a glance, but it's discontinued.I have the same issue with polarized glasses with my Pioneer DEH-X8600BT. It's a single DIN with a low resolution dot matrix display, but the middle of the display is impossible to read when wearing my sunglasses. And they're prescription glasses, so it's not like I can just pop into a store and pick up a non-polarized set (I can barely make out the speedometer without glasses on, you really don't want me driving without them).
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May 29, 2017 08:05
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Up until fairly recently, Blaupunkt made some fairly sedate looking head units. But looking at their website now, it looks like all of their single DINs now come with raves, and their double DINs are all touchscreen. drat, I just looked at that site;  Blaupunkt.These are niiiiiccceee.
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May 31, 2017 01:01
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Has bluetooth reached a point where it doesn't significantly degrade audio quality? I was under the impression that the bitrate was way high, but I put a (cheap) Pioneer in my car and the bluetooth sounds like hammered rear end in a top hat compared to 3.5mm. It's a Pioneer MVH-290BT. All I want is to start my car and have my phone connect and work without dicking around plugging in the headphone jack, but this is barely even acceptable for podcasts and audiobooks. I've installed lots of headunits, but this is the first time ever messing with bluetooth audio.
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May 31, 2017 01:27
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Hypnolobster posted:Has bluetooth reached a point where it doesn't significantly degrade audio quality? I was under the impression that the bitrate was way high, but I put a (cheap) Pioneer in my car and the bluetooth sounds like hammered rear end in a top hat compared to 3.5mm. It's a Pioneer MVH-290BT. I think AptX is as good as it gets but iPhones don't support it and most head units don't either.
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May 31, 2017 02:05
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Hypnolobster posted:Has bluetooth reached a point where it doesn't significantly degrade audio quality? I was under the impression that the bitrate was way high, but I put a (cheap) Pioneer in my car and the bluetooth sounds like hammered rear end in a top hat compared to 3.5mm. It's a Pioneer MVH-290BT. It should sound good, actually. Something is wrong. Although I know every once in a while mine pauses for a second. Happens with my friends iPhone too.
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May 31, 2017 02:18
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Yeah I dont think I have ever been able to tell the difference between A2DP Bluetooth and aux in.
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May 31, 2017 02:29
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Something's definitely up. The Bluetooth on a model that recent should be pretty good. Hell, it's probably using the exact same internal bt hardware as my MVH-X370BT, which I can tell you first hand is indistinguishable (on decade old stock Ford speakers, granted) from aux.
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May 31, 2017 02:50
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Hypnolobster posted:Has bluetooth reached a point where it doesn't significantly degrade audio quality? I was under the impression that the bitrate was way high, but I put a (cheap) Pioneer in my car and the bluetooth sounds like hammered rear end in a top hat compared to 3.5mm. It's a Pioneer MVH-290BT. It may be your phone; sometimes the audio process fucks up real bad, or your phone decides it should process sound through some intermediate thread. Check and see if your phone has lots of poo poo running, try a control test by using some other Bluetooth device on your head-unit. It is almost NEVER the embedded device loving up when audio is bad; it is, in my experience, the host device doing something to gently caress up the sound.
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May 31, 2017 07:27
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Bluetooth doesn't "do" transform on audio, or really anything; it's basically just a really short-range WiFi that has dedicated communication for paired devices.
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May 31, 2017 08:49
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Hypnolobster posted:Has bluetooth reached a point where it doesn't significantly degrade audio quality? I was under the impression that the bitrate was way high, but I put a (cheap) Pioneer in my car and the bluetooth sounds like hammered rear end in a top hat compared to 3.5mm. It's a Pioneer MVH-290BT. I can't tell a difference between BT and 3.5mm aux on my Pioneer DEH-X8600BT, and that stereo is a few years old now. There's a decent difference between CD and streaming quality that even my half-deaf rear end can notice, but it's not enough for me to go back to hauling a binder of 100+ CDs around. I'm generally content to just throw on Slacker and pick a genre; if I am looking for a specific artist, well, Google Music has my entire music collection available in ~the cloud~ (look how well the cloud has worked for our forums  )What phone are you using? Is it possible it's using the hands free profile instead of A2DP? HFP sounds like garbage for anything that requires more fidelity than a phone call (since, well, it's meant for phone calls). A2DP sounds pretty good. CharlesM posted:It should sound good, actually. Something is wrong. Although I know every once in a while mine pauses for a second. Happens with my friends iPhone too.  Glad it's not just me. Always figured it was something with Android not playing nice with Pioneer's bluetooth implementation, but the only BT capable head units I've owned so far have been Pioneer. It doesn't happen often enough for me to spend any time trying to figure it out; it's about as annoying as hitting a small bump in the road.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:38 on May 31, 2017 |
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May 31, 2017 09:34
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MikeyTsi posted:Bluetooth doesn't "do" transform on audio, or really anything; it's basically just a really short-range WiFi that has dedicated communication for paired devices. That's what I'm saying. When it's hosed up, is usually something in your phone/tablet/computer loving up before making GBS threads it out, not the speaker or stereo or whatever misbehaving.
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May 31, 2017 10:24
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How good are your speakers? Bluetooth is definitely lossy, but you need a pretty good audio system to be able to tell the difference - especially with MP3s.
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May 31, 2017 17:00
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They're mid range Apline. I actually found some reviews that mention Bluetooth problems with the head unit I have, so it's not just me it seems.
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May 31, 2017 19:04
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I'm lazy and don't have much time to work on my car, but want something half-decent. I have a 2009 corolla with a Kenwood KDC-BT365U, and was thinking about getting an amp and a pair of components in the front. I listen to a lot of 80s pop and alternative/rock music. I don't care too much for bass. I'd be open to spending ~150 on an amp and another ~100 on components, with as little cable running as possible. I've read that I can probably get away with using stock speaker wire with cheaper speakers, so the trouble now is the amp. I've seen a few "mini" amps that can be put into the glove box and doesn't require much wiring. Is it worth looking into? Any recommendations?
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Jun 26, 2017 20:09
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what is the consensus on under-seat subwoofers? looking at either the Kicker 8" model (which for some reason doesnt include line out converters or RCA inputs) or a 10" from a weird brand Cerwin Vega which has RCA inputs and seems reasonably well received in reviews. I dont want thumping bass, just some extra low end that regular speakers cant hit properly. I have an aftermarket head unit and will be upgrading the door speakers and adding a 4ch amp for those also, and some basic sound deadening.
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Jun 27, 2017 05:45
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When did Cerwin Vega get into car audio?  I'm not sure what's changed since their bankruptcy+sale, but I know their home audio stuff used to be pretty good. They've been around since the 1950s.
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Jun 27, 2017 20:03
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They've been in car audio for a long time. Definitely since the 90s if not prior. They used to mainly only do subwoofers but have drifted over into amplifiers and whatnot over the years. Between Kicker and Cerwin Vega, your guess is as good as mine really. You'll probably get more out of the 10" model if they have similar power as it'll have more cone area.
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Jun 27, 2017 20:10
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Bank posted:I'm lazy and don't have much time to work on my car, but want something half-decent. I have a 2009 corolla with a Kenwood KDC-BT365U, and was thinking about getting an amp and a pair of components in the front. RMS rating is what's important, and size ultimately matters when it comes to amps. Regardless of what you do, you're going to have to run a power wire through the firewall, and that's usually the primary job. I'd say just install it under your front seat if you have clearance and are concerned about running wire (although it's really not all that complicated or time-consuming relatively speaking.); you'll be able to use an amp that'll produce proper power and it'll probably be an easier cable run than trying to stuff a bunch of poo poo in a glovebox. There's a lot of quality brands out there. Go with a something that has an RMS rating that fits your needs and has a good S/N rating. Match it with a good set of speakers, speaker quality is ultimately the most important in this equation.
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Jun 27, 2017 21:06
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Laserface posted:what is the consensus on under-seat subwoofers? looking at either the Kicker 8" model (which for some reason doesnt include line out converters or RCA inputs) or a 10" from a weird brand Cerwin Vega which has RCA inputs and seems reasonably well received in reviews. I don't know what the consensus is but I have Pioneer's cheapest under-seat sub for that purpose and it does its job very well in that capacity.
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Jun 29, 2017 15:17
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I have been looking at a few others and found a 10" 180W RMS underseat subwoofer that also has 2ch 50W RMS output for the door speakers. Seems like a good alternative and if the need arises I can always add a 2ch or 4ch amp to power all 4 speakers later. Theres also the factory option of a Rockford Fosgate 10" in a plastic box for the trunk, but my trunk space is already small enough so I am trying to avoid going that route. Plus I figure having the sub in the cabin will mean it doesnt need to be driven as hard to get decent results.
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Jun 30, 2017 01:03
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Laserface posted:I have been looking at a few others and found a 10" 180W RMS underseat subwoofer that also has 2ch 50W RMS output for the door speakers. Seems like a good alternative and if the need arises I can always add a 2ch or 4ch amp to power all 4 speakers later. Perhaps, but then you have cabin loading in play, which allows you to use the acoustic characteristics of the car to improve the effectiveness of the sub. In a wagon or hatch this is as simple as firing the sub into the back window. In a sedan it's a bit more complicated and usually a bit of trial and error. Trunk-located subs as a rule have either more power or more box volume/cone area, so typically you overcome those issues fairly easily. Underseat subs will always be a compromise, and rarely do more than boost the low end a bit - you'll never get the kind of pleasing thump you get out of a boot install with a 1-2cuft MDF box - but ultimately, space is a commodity. Given the propensity of most door speakers to stop producing bass under 80hz, you will definitely notice then benefit from it either way.
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Jul 4, 2017 04:35
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I want to replace the speakers in my 2017 corolla and that's probably about it. Videos on Youtube suggest that the front doors are pretty easy to do. I saw recommended for my car these on Crutchfield and I have a few questions. Are these a bad decision/should I buy something else? Will replacing just the front door speakers make a big difference? Lastly, is it dumb to try to do this by myself on a new car? I found this video which makes it look easier than I expected. There's basically no car audio places near me except Best Buy. The hardest part seems to be drilling the rivets out such as in this video. Also I'm kind of worried about breaking a piece of the car but if I get a tool set from Crutchfield with something like that guy in the video has and go super slow I think I should be ok.
beejay fucked around with this message at 03:41 on Jul 18, 2017 |
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Jul 18, 2017 03:34
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beejay posted:I want to replace the speakers in my 2017 corolla and that's probably about it. Videos on Youtube suggest that the front doors are pretty easy to do. I saw recommended for my car these on Crutchfield and I have a few questions. Are these a bad decision/should I buy something else? Will replacing just the front door speakers make a big difference? Lastly, is it dumb to try to do this by myself on a new car? I found this video which makes it look easier than I expected. There's basically no car audio places near me except Best Buy. The hardest part seems to be drilling the rivets out such as in this video. Also I'm kind of worried about breaking a piece of the car but if I get a tool set from Crutchfield with something like that guy in the video has and go super slow I think I should be ok. Well, I guess the first question is, why do you want to replace the speakers; what is your goal?
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Jul 18, 2017 21:33
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Thanks for replying. At the least, I want music to sound better and not have to worry about blowing out the factory speakers. I play bass-heavy music probably 50% of the time and have done a number on past cars' factory speakers. I don't want to be knocking people's doors off at stoplights or anything, I just want to hear good sound inside my car. The Toyota factory system is ok but certainly leaves me wanting a bit more. If I could find a good pro around here, I would probably go fairly all-out and get a subwoofer and everything just to have it, but my problem currently is finding a place. I'm down to one place with lukewarm reviews and Best Buy. Every other place is out of business or clueless (I called a shop and asked if they were open Saturdays and the guy said he "thinks so" what? Then I went there Saturday and there were pissed off customers in the lot that said they were supposed to pick up their car and the place was closed tight.) If anyone in this thread knows someone in east central Illinois that they'd recommend let me know.
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Jul 18, 2017 22:29
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beejay posted:Thanks for replying. At the least, I want music to sound better and not have to worry about blowing out the factory speakers. I play bass-heavy music probably 50% of the time and have done a number on past cars' factory speakers. I don't want to be knocking people's doors off at stoplights or anything, I just want to hear good sound inside my car. The Toyota factory system is ok but certainly leaves me wanting a bit more. If you want bass response, ultimately no in-door speaker is going to ultimately fit your needs; there simply isn't enough space to mount a cone large enough to really reproduce those low frequencies. Just get yourself a small subwoofer, you can get a combined package that has the woofer and amp built-in, and there are methods of patching it in to a speaker-level feed if your in-dash doesn't have outputs you can patch in to.
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Jul 18, 2017 23:02
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Ok thanks. I went to a place tonight and the guy seemed pretty knowledgeable. He didn't seem to think I would need to replace the factory speakers just yet. He suggested putting in a subwoofer and a high level converter which he explained would separate out the frequencies and save the factory speakers from blowing out. With the built in tweeters from factory and adding a sub he said I would see a big difference. He suggested a brand called Sundown which I hadn't heard of but that's not saying much. He said one 12" would be good but I'm wondering if I would be fine with a smaller one in such a small car. Does all this sound reasonable?
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Jul 19, 2017 00:59
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He means a crossover. A crossover filters out highs or lows depending on which way it's set up, meaning speakers that aren't capable of doing lows won't get them and aren't going to crap out from trying to do 25hz at high SPL. Personally unless you're deaf I feel a 10" with a well-dialled system set up (ie: dude adjusts things right) is all you'll ever need.
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Jul 19, 2017 09:01
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If it's just to filter out lows from the front speakers, it'd probably be a high pass filter (for those that don't know, that's usually just a capacitor in-line with each speaker). No need to spend the money on a crossover in that case.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:31 on Jul 20, 2017 |
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Jul 20, 2017 06:28
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Ok folks. Looking for a bit of expert advice here. So I might have a bit of money left over from a few projects to upgrade the components in the front of my IS300 finally. the fronts are 6.5 and there should be room for a 3/4" tweeter in the sail panel stock tweeter mount. Budget will be about $300-350AUD. I have a 12" Type R in the back (in a sealed box, because it's what I had), Alpine HU which will be driving them to start with, but I've got a really nice 4x50WRMS amp I'll probably install later that bridges to something like 160 x 2 @ 4ohm due to wizardry. I've already deadened and sealed the door skins up, so it's ready for whatever I can afford to throw at it. I'm going for sound quality over raw SPL. I just don't know the market right now. This site is basically the only local supplier now that doesn't mostly carry pure trash. I've pre-filtered the search results based on my criteria, now I just need a good recommendation: https://www.ryda.com.au/car-audio/speakers#!/ca_speaker_size=313&order=price&no_cache=true&ca_speaker_type=571&price=68%2C353 Thanks, goons.
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Jul 20, 2017 06:47
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MikeyTsi posted:If you want bass response, ultimately no in-door speaker is going to ultimately fit your needs; there simply isn't enough space to mount a cone large enough to really reproduce those low frequencies. I'm going with this, a Rockford fosgate powered sub dealie. It should serve me well. Thanks all.
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Jul 20, 2017 13:37
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