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Further updates on the 2014 Hyundai Accent GLS - 1.6L DI DOHC 4cyl - 33k miles (previous posts here and here) I jacked the car and removed the front left wheel again to poke around a bit more. Removed the right front wheel as well so I could compare both sides to one another. Right side:  Left side:  You'll probably notice that there's some crap built up on the left side. More poking around and I believe I've identified this fucker as the source of my automotive woes:  Here it is in action! I'm pretty sure that's part of the rattle plate, correct? I can't seem to manage to get it to a position where it won't rub on the rotor, so I guess it'll have to be replaced. Now, here's the stupid question: where do I get it replaced? Dealership under Hyundai warranty? Pep boys or something similar? Buy the part and do it myself assuming I can do it with basic tools and a little scissor jack? I'm new to car ownership. 
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Jun 10, 2017 03:33
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 09:03 |
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Its just a small shim that gives the pad a smooth surface to ride on. Its a commonly replaced item during brake jobs and sometimes they come out of the press slightly off. It'll eventually clearance itself if thats it. If you can get a screwdriver in and force it away from the rotor, you should be fine. Other option includes picking up a set of brake hardware from an autoparts store for like $10 and replacing it yourself.
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Jun 10, 2017 03:58
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Hey AI. Would appreciate a diagnosis if poss: it's a manual transmission 2-litre 3-series BMW. Old - hard to say exactly how old, because it was registered some time after they stopped manufacturing this model, but at least 15 years. I've had it for the past two, and am planning to ditch it for a GT86 in the next few weeks anyway. It's given me no problems so far, other than needing to replace the battery. Recently, it started intermittently producing a high-pitched mechanical whine when in gear and revving above 2500. You can definitely hear me coming - it's extremely noticeable and very annoying. Of course, every time I took it to my mechanic, it refused to reproduce it, but since then it's become more frequent, and louder, and progressively started happening at lower revs - 2000, and now anywhere above about 1750. It doesn't matter what gear it's in, just how many revs I'm pulling. Hard to locate the source precisely, because of course it only happens while you're actually driving. I think it's coming from somewhere to the left - but that might just be because it's right hand drive, so most of what's under the hood is to the left as I'm sat there. The fact it only happens with the clutch engaged makes me think it might be something to do with that, but I know less than nothing about cars. It still runs absolutely fine, apart from the noise. Since I'm aiming to get rid of it in the next six weeks or so, I really just need to know whether it's worth fixing to get a better price on trade-in, or if it's not worth the money. The car's barely worth anything anyway. Any advice?
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Jun 10, 2017 13:24
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Check and make sure the rear differential and transmission at least have oil in them. If they do, is it full of shavings? It's probably a bearing about to lunch itself in one of the two.
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Jun 10, 2017 13:58
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rdb posted:Check and make sure the rear differential and transmission at least have oil in them. If they do, is it full of shavings? It's probably a bearing about to lunch itself in one of the two. I'll get that done this week. Thanks!
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Jun 10, 2017 14:05
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What do you guys think, safe or not safe? I'm trying to use hockey pucks to get more consistent surface area on the jack and stands. The puck seems to be compressing unevenly, but the plane of the jack point and the head of the jack stand are level. I've got pucks for the stands too, but before I lift the entire car up on the jack like this, I wanted to see if this stage was safe first.  3 total photos: http://imgur.com/a/mPY8r
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Jun 10, 2017 15:54
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If you're really worried then you can always put a piece of wood between the jack and the puck to prevent the jack from digging into the puck like that. As long as you're not getting under it though, I think it'll be okay.
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Jun 10, 2017 16:01
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Breakfast Feud posted:If you're really worried then you can always put a piece of wood between the jack and the puck to prevent the jack from digging into the puck like that. As long as you're not getting under it though, I think it'll be okay. I got the pucks instead of wood. I thought it was one of the other. If I had wood, what would the point of the puck be? When you say getting under it, do you mean placing my body under the car? That's not the plan. I'm just doing this so that I can take the four wheels off at once.
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Jun 10, 2017 16:14
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If it's twisting like that, the weight isn't centered on the puck. Try putting the jack a bit more inboard under the car.
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Jun 10, 2017 16:34
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Enourmo posted:If it's twisting like that, the weight isn't centered on the puck. Try putting the jack a bit more inboard under the car. Ok, I pushed the jack a little further towards the inside of the car and it seems to have leveled off well. Would it be crazy to use two pucks on top of each other on the jack? I need the extra height to fit my stand+puck under the front. (Jack is in the back)
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Jun 10, 2017 16:46
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I completely killed one of my tires today. I hit a curb on the way home and blew out the sidewall. Worst/best part is it was less than 500m or so from my place. Sucked to blow a tire when I was so close but at least it was close enough that I could gingerly roll it home. Anyway, to the point, I've found a used tire on an internet auction that has roughly the same amount of tread left as the remaining tires. In my mind this looks perfect. It's cheaper than a new one and I avoid most of the mismatched tire problems that might have pushed me to buy a whole set. Is there anything I'm missing? Is there any hidden danger to running a mystery tire?
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Jun 10, 2017 16:46
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Unless it's a car with a fickle AWD system, seems legit to me.
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Jun 10, 2017 18:06
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Wobble bolts are safe on hub-centric wheels, right? Basically everything I find online is people saying, "yeah, they're probably safe, but I'd never put them on my car" Trying to find appropriately priced 13"-15" 4x98 wheels is a bit of a pain. Ideally, I'd like to run some E30 basketweaves since I could get 14" for the front and 15" for the rear
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Jun 10, 2017 18:13
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Yeah, they're probably safe, but I'd never put them on my car. What are you looking to fit them on, your X1/9? E30 wheel offset might not be right anyway.
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Jun 10, 2017 18:47
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Is this situation pretty much impossible, or could I work with it? I'm in it probably 50% to improve the cars' looks, 50% as a DIY project to learn (got a few dents to fill too). I figured I would do rollers rather than spray. You can work with anything if you are dedicated enough! I've worked on and sprayed cars outside as have lots of people. After the weather, dust and bugs are your enemy. You could buy a gazebo or car tent to spray inside or work under. Either get one with walls to block wind and rain as required or use clear plastic sheet (eg dustsheet) when you come to paint and are working on dirt you will want to park it on a big pegged down tarp or something similar and get some windbreaks if there is any wind (e.g. the aforementioned gazebo walls) For sanding, you don't need powertools, just buy a decent pack of wet and dry sandpaper starting from 240grit and working up and put the hours in. The same applies for polishing it after paint. You may want to buy yourself a long extension lead for running other tools/lights/battery chargers. go for it!
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Jun 10, 2017 18:48
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Alright, I got my car up on jacks and it seems stable enough so works for me. Trying to get the first wheel off, I undo all five lugs but it's still not coming clean. I encounter this behind the wheel emblem. Am I trying to get that giant nut off? If so, what's the tool for that? Some massive socket that I'm positive I don't own?  Porsche 2008 987 Cayman
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Jun 10, 2017 18:55
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InitialDave posted:Yeah, they're probably safe, but I'd never put them on my car. Bingo, stock Croms are 13x5 24mm offset, 13x5.5 25mm as upgrades E30 baskets are 15x7 ET41 and 14x6.5 ET33. Vicks sells 15x6.5 with 35mm offset and swears they won't rub on a stock suspension, while their 15x8 0mm wheels need coilovers and fender rolling
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Jun 10, 2017 19:10
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Alright, I got my car up on jacks and it seems stable enough so works for me.
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Jun 10, 2017 19:31
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Cage posted:Advance auto/autozone have sockets that they can loan you for taking those off. Axle nuts I think they're called? Turns out the wheel was just wedged on there well. Didn't expect that since I had them switched just three months ago. Got all four off and now it's time for the main event. Luckily, that much I know how to do. Thanks for the input guys.
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Jun 10, 2017 19:32
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Oh I wasnt really thinking right anyway, you only need to take the nut off if youre replacing rotors. Oops. Glad you got it.
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Jun 10, 2017 19:34
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Alright, I got my car up on jacks and it seems stable enough so works for me. I've never wrenched on a Porsche but unless there's some German humor going on there, that center nut has nothing to do with removing the wheel. When a wheel doesn't come right off after removing the lugs (which is entirely normal), I usually just kick it with increasing force until it pops off. Once I had a really stuck wheel that wouldn't budge. I put the lugs back really loose (millimeter or more away from becoming tight at all) and went for a very slow and careful drive diagonally up a kerb, which made the wheel come off.
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Jun 10, 2017 19:38
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So starter is in and reconnected. When I go to turn the key I can hear the stater motor make a "whiirrr" sound, but the engine still isn't cranking. My coworker think it's not engaging the flywheel, and might need a shim. The starter is supposed to be OEM, and not need shims. Where do I go from here?
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Jun 10, 2017 19:59
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The Door Frame posted:Bingo, stock Croms are 13x5 24mm offset, 13x5.5 25mm as upgrades
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Jun 10, 2017 20:04
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IOwnCalculus posted:Unless it's a car with a fickle AWD system, seems legit to me. 2000 Impreza WRX but it's all open and viscous diffs so there's not much resistance in the system and no computers to freak out.
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Jun 10, 2017 20:08
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UrielX posted:So starter is in and reconnected. When I go to turn the key I can hear the stater motor make a "whiirrr" sound, but the engine still isn't cranking. My coworker think it's not engaging the flywheel, and might need a shim. The starter is supposed to be OEM, and not need shims. Shims usually are only needed if the starter is too close. Possible defective starter, even though it's new.
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Jun 10, 2017 20:09
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Starters can jam so the pinion doesn't actually throw out into the ring gear. More common on old-school ones where it uses a leadscrew to fling it out with the inertia of it spinning, but the more modern kind where there's a little lever from the solenoid to shunt it out can do it too (I've done it by filling the bellhousing with mud). Maybe pull the starter off it and try it with some jump leads, make sure the pinion both spins and moves forward.
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Jun 10, 2017 20:18
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IOwnCalculus posted:Shims usually are only needed if the starter is too close. Possible defective starter, even though it's new. How would I know if it's defective? So when I turn the key and I can hear the starter, but basically nothing else happens. In the "On" position I can hear something from the starter, but yeah it's not even trying to crank. He suggested unbolting it and seeing if the starter gear moves and spins under power. I'm really not sure what I should be looking for though.
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Jun 10, 2017 20:21
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When going to take it off to test it.... saw I forgot to reconnect the ignition wire. My first substantial DIY project.... Success! Usually helps to reconnect all the poo poo i disconnected first =D
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Jun 10, 2017 20:40
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InitialDave posted:Heh, this discussion has been split between here and the chat thread, but as was mentioned there, those are AWD E30 offsets, a normal E30 will be closer to what you want if you need ET25 or thereabouts. I thought the X1/9 was more of an ET35, though. Fair enough if it isn't, that actually gives you a further option: You can get adaptor spacers to change your PCD to suit common wheels, and the thickness of them would cover the use of FWD wheels from something common. Over here it costs about £200 for a set of 4 custom ones, probably less if you want an off the shelf combination. Yeah... I probably should've just kept my original post there, but I didn't want to waste space in the chat thread when there's a more appropriate place for my question. And those PCD spacers would alleviate my uncertainty about wobble bolt safety, but they'd bring the cost right near the price of heavily used Cromodoras Seems like there's no secret budget option, but at least 14"/15" tires are so much easier to get a hold of. Now I just need to do some measuring to find out if I could fit them in my wheel wells...
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Jun 10, 2017 20:50
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Is this situation pretty much impossible, or could I work with it? I'm in it probably 50% to improve the cars' looks, 50% as a DIY project to learn (got a few dents to fill too). I figured I would do rollers rather than spray. I've been doing random reading about people's paint projects, and one that looked surprisingly good to me was this [url]http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html[/url] Dude paints a corvair with rollers and cheap rustoleum paint and it turns out really nice, and stays that way.
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Jun 10, 2017 21:19
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UrielX posted:When going to take it off to test it.... saw I forgot to reconnect the ignition wire. Awesome, well done. You'll get the bug for it if you're not careful!
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Jun 11, 2017 05:40
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09 Corolla XRS 165,000 KM (~100,000 Miles). I hear some pretty awful noises when hitting irregularities in the road. Similar, but not the same as when the rear struts were blown on my old Mazda. I've been told that just bouncing the car a few time at each corner and seeing how long it takes to stop is no longer a "satisfactory" way of telling that your shocks need replacing. For that matter, when I do it, it doesn't take that long anyway (maybe up and down once or twice after I let go of the car). Without actually taking the shocks out and apart from the springs, what other ways are there to tell?
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Jun 11, 2017 21:20
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100k miles is about 30k past the service life of a Corolla's shocks depending on road conditions iirc. Time to replace. There shouldn't be any bounce at all.
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Jun 11, 2017 21:29
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1997 4runner with the 3rz 2.7l 4cyl. Down in moab this weekend, waaaay off the beaten track in the canyonlands NP backcountry. Truck decides that, if it's only been a few minutes since I've shut it off, it doesn't want to charge. Leave it for a while, go hiking, come back, charges fine. Drive somewhere, shut it down, come back a few minutes later to start it again, no charging (only 12.2v across battery while engine running when its not charging, also batt light comes on.) I'm assuming I need a new alternator but this seems oddly specific for the behavior to occur. Anyone experienced similar before?
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Jun 12, 2017 00:04
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I just did the tech inspection/MOT thing and they weren't completely happy with the brakes, apparently uneven braking even though it brakes straight and strong. But still, not something to gently caress around with. They all look like this roughly, a small outer lip (except front outside) and somewhat uneven wear on the surface: The rears are about 8.7mm at the thinnest point and the fronts are about 21.5 which is safely above min specs (8/20). So I'm thinking of just getting the rotors turned. Maybe resurfacing the pads as there's a ton of material on the fronts and the rears are just two years old. Anything else worth checking/doing to make sure the brakes are ok? I don't have a brake lathe obviously so I'd need to have a shop do all this.
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Jun 12, 2017 10:25
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mobby_6kl posted:I just did the tech inspection/MOT thing and they weren't completely happy with the brakes, apparently uneven braking even though it brakes straight and strong. But still, not something to gently caress around with. They all look like this roughly, a small outer lip (except front outside) and somewhat uneven wear on the surface: I am not sure you are going to find a place that can turn the discs for less than the cost of new discs: people tend not to bother doing that any more. Might want to check out the hoses, too
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Jun 12, 2017 12:00
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Hoses looked fine when I was measuring thickness, anything specific to pay attention to? New rotors for all four corners would probably be like $250-300 going by the big store prices though I could do much better buying online. This isn't in the US so the labor is quite cheap outside of stealerships - I had my exhaust welded well enough to pass emissions for $5  But still, that's a good point, if it's not possible or too expensive to have them turned, I'd just replace them of course. Not sure if I could do that myself - the procedure is easy enough but everything is rusted to poo poo.
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Jun 12, 2017 12:16
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mobby_6kl posted:Hoses looked fine when I was measuring thickness, anything specific to pay attention to? I've not quite worked out where you are to use mm and $ but have an MOT?, but in the UK nobody bothers turning brake discs now as the labour alone would usually cost more than just buying new ones. You should definitely look online for pricing - I just spent under £50 for 2x discs for my 35 year old car shipped from Germany to the UK. Yeah - replacing discs yourself is not complicated but will likely need you to shift some very tight and likely rusted nuts/bolts Tomarse fucked around with this message at 13:20 on Jun 12, 2017 |
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Jun 12, 2017 13:17
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mobby_6kl posted:Hoses looked fine when I was measuring thickness, anything specific to pay attention to? $5 for welding, wow. That would be 10 seconds of welding here in my US city. The differences in costs are crazy. e: a stupid question for the thread. The PO of my car must have driven really close to semis as there's a crazy amount of small (quarter of a pinky nail) rock chips on the hood and lower front fenders. I understand if I glob on touch up paint it will look like crap and be noticeable. Will a body shop be able to use touchup paint the proper way (spot sanding, polishing etc.) to achieve a desireable result or is the only solution a complete repaint of the panel? Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 15:45 on Jun 12, 2017 |
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Jun 12, 2017 15:29
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I'm almost positive this has been asked prior, but why don't you go from synthetic to regular exactly?
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Jun 12, 2017 15:35
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