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KKKLIP ART posted:If I tell my router to use 8.8.8.8/8.8.4.4 as its DNS server, will my connected devices be smart enough to defer to that as opposed to my ISPs DNS stuff? It depends on your DHCP settings. If your router is telling client devices to use the ISP's DNS server(s), the client will make DNS requests to the ISP's server(s) - regardless of what DNS server your router uses. If your router is telling client devices to use 8.8.8.8/8.8.4.4 as the DNS servers, the client will make DNS requests to those servers - again, regardless of what DNS server your router uses. If your router is telling client devices to use itself as the DNS server, the client will make DNS requests to the router, then the router will relay the requests to the server(s) you've configured it to use (8.8.8.8/8.8.4.4). (Assuming your router has the ability to act as a DNS relay)
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Jun 4, 2017 04:42
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Actuarial Fables posted:It depends on your DHCP settings. I've got an Archer C7, so it just has a checkbox that says "Use these DNS servers" and the tooltips just say that if left blank, it will try to pull them from the ISP, so I'm not sure if it relying on the client's settings or if it is over-riding that. E: looks like my macbook has 192.168.0.1 as its DNS server for my home wifi, so my assumption is that at the very least it is using the router's settings
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Jun 4, 2017 16:33
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KKKLIP ART posted:If I tell my router to use 8.8.8.8/8.8.4.4 as its DNS server, will my connected devices be smart enough to defer to that as opposed to my ISPs DNS stuff? Actuarial Fables posted:It depends on your DHCP settings. KKKLIP ART posted:I've got an Archer C7, so it just has a checkbox that says "Use these DNS servers" and the tooltips just say that if left blank, it will try to pull them from the ISP, so I'm not sure if it relying on the client's settings or if it is over-riding that. This also depends on the devices. A chromecast, for example, will always ignore whatever DNS settings you have on your router and try to use Google's DNS instead unless you block Google's DNS at the router level.
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Jun 4, 2017 23:21
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KKKLIP ART posted:I've got an Archer C7, so it just has a checkbox that says "Use these DNS servers" and the tooltips just say that if left blank, it will try to pull them from the ISP, so I'm not sure if it relying on the client's settings or if it is over-riding that. Your assumption is correct. The configuration matches the last scenario I listed. Your macbook knows to use the router as a DNS server because of the DHCP (Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol) information it received when asking for an IP address. That configuration information sent out can be changed under `Advanced > Network > DHCP Settings` should you need to modify it, but I believe it's set up how you want it as is.
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Jun 5, 2017 06:04
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I guess this sort of goes here, I have Verizon FiOS and I need a router that isn't their piece of poo poo. What should I buy? My network demands aren't too intensive, just my desktop, a Roku, and one or two phones at any one time. Can I just get away with like a Netgear Archer whatever or am I going to run into serious issues doing that
BENGHAZI 2 fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Jun 5, 2017 |
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Jun 5, 2017 21:01
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BENGHAZI 2 posted:I guess this sort of goes here, I have Verizon FiOS and I need a router that isn't their piece of poo poo. What should I buy? My network demands aren't too intensive, just my desktop, a Roku, and one or two phones at any one time. Can I just get away with like a Netgear Archer whatever or am I going to run into serious issues doing that you can use whatever you want, but if you're using FIOS TV be aware it's a little more difficult than just replacing the router.
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Jun 5, 2017 21:12
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Photex posted:you can use whatever you want, but if you're using FIOS TV be aware it's a little more difficult than just replacing the router. I'm using it in that it's part of the package because it's cheaper but I don't think the guy actually turned it on when he did the installation because I told him I was never going to use it. Im 90% sure the router is hooked up with just Ethernet cable On the off chance that it's not, what do I have to do to replace it
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Jun 5, 2017 21:17
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BENGHAZI 2 posted:I'm using it in that it's part of the package because it's cheaper but I don't think the guy actually turned it on when he did the installation because I told him I was never going to use it. Im 90% sure the router is hooked up with just Ethernet cable If it's hooked up via ethernet and all you care about is internet all you need to do is login to the Verizon router, release the DHCP lease and then unplug and replace the Verizon router. If it's hooked up via Coax and you can run the ethernet cable yourself you should be able to get Verizon change the setting from coax to ethernet over the phone. If you want the phone/tv to work with a different router it gets complicated. http://www.dslreports.com/faq/16710 http://www.dslreports.com/faq/16077
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Jun 5, 2017 21:25
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THF13 posted:If it's hooked up via ethernet and all you care about is internet all you need to do is login to the Verizon router, release the DHCP lease and then unplug and replace the Verizon router. Yeah I just called the girlfriend and had her check, she said it's all Ethernet. I'm not super surprised, when the guy installed i told him I don't actually watch television and it exists just for me to stream stuff to, so he just kinda went gently caress it and said he wasn't going to bother setting up the TV stuff Anyway, good to know! Thanks guys
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Jun 5, 2017 21:28
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I just moved into a 3400 sq. ft. two-story home and I'm looking to upgrade our home network beyond the sole Archer C7 I'm currently using. We do quite a bit of streaming via wifi (Roku Stick) and I play games on my desktop in the office. Beyond that we have several smart devices and our phones connected to the wifi. I'd like to start with the bare minimum to do the following: - Get my NAS and networking equipment into the office (ideally the closet). - 5Ghz coverage of the top two floors with the ability to expand the coverage down the road when we use the basement more frequently. - Wired connection in the office with the ability to add more to other rooms later on. I had a few of questions: - My C7 seems to be doing a decent job penetrating the walls in our house, so I'm wondering if I could start out by using the C7 along with a Ubiquity UAP-AC-LITE installed somewhere else to cover the areas I mentioned. These can work together if I use the PoE injector, correct? - I am planning to have an electrician come out to see what it'd cost to have an outlet installed in the office closet. Would heat buildup be a concern with the hardware placed in there? (I could always leave the doors open but that kind of defeats the purpose of stashing it out of the way, haha.) - My cable runs will have to be through the attic and along the outside of the house - are there recommended cables that are designed to withstand being outside in the sun/Minnesota cold? - Depending on where the AP ends up, I may need to mount it to a wall rather than the ceiling - will this have a big effect on coverage?
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Jun 6, 2017 21:31
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pocket pool posted:- My C7 seems to be doing a decent job penetrating the walls in our house, so I'm wondering if I could start out by using the C7 along with a Ubiquity UAP-AC-LITE installed somewhere else to cover the areas I mentioned. These can work together if I use the PoE injector, correct? 1. Yes. Give them the same SSID and wifi encryption settings and clients will roam between them seamlessly. 2. Probably not. Consumer grade networking gear doesn't make much heat. Although the NAS might. This is a tough one because I don't know how big your closet is and how much ventilation it has. (My closet actually has a small AC vent built into the ceiling so I was able to stick a bunch of stuff in it without any issues.) You will probably have to set everything up and see if the room gets warmer than you are comfortable with. 3. The only way to ensure that ethernet cables survive outside is to put them in a conduit that is designed to withstand the elements. Most places have building codes about this sort of thing so you might want to talk to a contractor or electrician about it just to make sure that you are using the correct stuff and aren't running afoul of local laws. Maybe ask at your local Home Depot/Lowe's/<generic home improvement store here>. 4. Hard to say. Wifi signals bounce around in super complex ways. But Unifi APs tend to project signal out to the sides of the AP more than above or below it. The only way to really find out is to mount the AP on a wall and see what the coverage looks like. Antillie fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Jun 8, 2017 |
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Jun 8, 2017 02:19
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Antillie posted:3. The only way to ensure that ethernet cables survive outside is to put them in a conduit that is designed to withstand the elements. Most places have building codes about this sort of thing so you might want to talk to a contractor or electrician about it just to make sure that you are using the correct stuff and aren't running afoul of local laws. Maybe ask at your local Home Depot/Lowe's/<generic home improvement store here>. Outdoor rated ethernet cable is a thing, and does work fairly well.
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Jun 8, 2017 20:44
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Outdoor rated ethernet cable is a thing, and does work fairly well. Yes, both the gel-filled for direct burial, and UV-rated jacket varieties.
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Jun 8, 2017 20:55
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(X from windows) What's the easiest way to allow me to play Steam games remotely through Home Sharing (performance criticisms aside)? Windows 10 Edu. My plan was to have the host computer host a VPN and then connect to the VPN through the internet (effectively putting both computers on the same LAN, which allows home sharing). However, I can't seem to start a VPN through windows as it gives me random errors and I haven't been able to resolve them though a few hours of troubleshooting (Error codes, service 'starts and stops', etc). Is there an easier way to do this?
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Jun 9, 2017 15:33
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Outdoor rated ethernet cable is a thing, and does work fairly well. Condumex Cat 6 4pr 23awg Unshielded OSP Gel Filled Burial Cable (1000 foot) Price: $219.88 http://www.discount-low-voltage.com/Cable/Burial-Category-6/664466DB-45-CAT6-burial quote:Condumex Cat6 cable has 4 pairs of solid copper conductors, a PE outdoor rated jacket, and is suitable for direct burial and aerial applications (if support cables are present). Unshielded twisted pair, 23awg construction. Sold per 1,000ft on wood spools.
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Jun 9, 2017 18:00
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And then it meets a loving weed-wacker.
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Jun 9, 2017 18:12
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Internet Explorer posted:And then it meets a loving weed-wacker. Don't kinkshame
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Jun 9, 2017 18:39
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Internet Explorer posted:And then it meets a loving weed-wacker. That's an operator failure, not a failure of the cable. EDIT: I say this as someone who wrapped some exterior-run cat5 around the head of his string trimmer a few weeks ago. Cable was fine, got pulled out of the AT&T NID though. Luckily I had the correct security bit and was able to reattach with no issue.
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Jun 9, 2017 20:05
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Da Mott Man posted:Exactly. OK, I wound up getting the Archer C7, had Shaw set my cable modem to bridge mode, and had everything running well! For about an hour, then the wired connections lost their connection. The Shaw agent on the phone when I got the modem reset said we could still plug computers into their modem as well as the third party router, so I am wondering whether this is due to double DHCP funniness. Keeping in mind of course that I know only enough about networking to recognize some of these abbreviations. Anyway, maybe it was a blip, I did a hard reset on the modem, we'll see how things go from here.
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Jun 10, 2017 04:23
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Bilirubin posted:OK, I wound up getting the Archer C7, had Shaw set my cable modem to bridge mode, and had everything running well! For about an hour, then the wired connections lost their connection. The Shaw agent on the phone when I got the modem reset said we could still plug computers into their modem as well as the third party router, so I am wondering whether this is due to double DHCP funniness. Keeping in mind of course that I know only enough about networking to recognize some of these abbreviations. What modem are you using with Shaw? When a Rogers tech set up my connection for 500/20, he only turned off the wireless on the gateway thinking that was bridge mode. Might be worth checking to see if it's actually in bridge mode and not double NAT'ing your devices.
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Jun 10, 2017 15:50
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Rukus posted:What modem are you using with Shaw? When a Rogers tech set up my connection for 500/20, he only turned off the wireless on the gateway thinking that was bridge mode. Yeah I had that fight with the guy at the time because he was all "ok so I turned off your WAN" and I replied "I can do that myself, I need this in bridge mode so I avoid having multiple levels of IP assignment and lost packets" but he assured me it was set correctly after I kept asking "so its not really in bridge mode"? Its a Cisco DPC3825. After the hard reset of the modem it has been running fine since, so for the past 24 hours all has been fine, and I can stream MLB.TV off the wifi in true high def so it seems ok. I am a little disappointed in the signal strength, which seems to rapidly drop off in the apartment. Should it be a problem I might place the router on top of a bookshelf to give unimpeded signal.
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Jun 11, 2017 03:44
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I can't tell which of these is most appropriate for my purposes: running cat6 a few hundred feet from my house to an outbuilding (and then doing the same thing again at a friend's house), buried just a little underground, not going to bother with conduit or going real deep because  It looks like one is unshielded, the second is shielded, and the third is unshielded gel-filled. Which seems "most right?" https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=12732 https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=12733 https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15398 I'm thinking the second option, the shielded-but-not-gel-filled option? Is the gel that important? I'm not expecting much cause for water infiltration, it's not like the cable is crossing a danger zone or anything.
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Jun 11, 2017 23:27
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Is there an electrical ground bonded between the buildings? If not, or you're not sure, then you don't want shielded cable. I'd go with the unshielded gel-filled, since you're going to bury it.
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Jun 12, 2017 01:13
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Cool, thanks. And you're right that they're not bonded. In fact, they're even on separate meters.
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Jun 12, 2017 02:40
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Please explain why you make shielding dependent on building grounds?
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Jun 12, 2017 07:15
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If the shield gets connected to ground on both ends, which are not otherwise bonded, you get voltage on the shield, which effectively becomes the bond. If you don't ground the shield at all, it becomes an antenna and defeats the whole purpose of having a shield. The point is it's harder to do properly and doesn't provide an advantage for the application.
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Jun 12, 2017 14:50
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How should I diagnose a randomly, briefly losing connection issue? I setup this new Turris Omnia router after bypassing my CenturyLink router for my new fiber connection. While playing Overwatch I'll randomly get a few seconds of no connection, sometimes it drops me all the way, sometimes it quickly reconnects me to the match, and sometimes it just lags hard and I get killed. I don't think I'd notice it during other internet activities since it's so brief and the connection comes back. I don't think I used the previous router enough before swapping it out to notice if that had an issue. The WAN uptime on the router doesn't reset, so I thought maybe that means it's internal to the network. Any ideas?
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Jun 12, 2017 17:03
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Are you using wireless? Because if so, it's probably that. That being said, my first step is to ping your default gateway (likely your router) and then to ping out to the internet (8.8.8.8 is my go-to). If the internet ping drops and your default gateway ping is still good during that time, it's a problem with your internet. If both drop, it's a problem with communication between your client and your router.
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Jun 12, 2017 17:47
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Internet Explorer posted:Are you using wireless? Because if so, it's probably that. Nope not wireless. It's wired from the router through the walls to a jack, connected to a switch, then to my desktop. I'm not even sure if I'd have time to do anything DURING the connection problem it happens so fast. I'd have to already have the command prompt open with the ping command to the router set and probably ping 8.8.8.8 copied ready to paste, alt tabbing to it at the right moment. I was hoping there'd be some sort of logging option so I could look at it at the timestamp I know it happened.
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Jun 12, 2017 18:45
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You can have the pings running in the background (it keeps a buffer of results if you use -t) and you can tab out when you run into an issue. Having them running won't cause a problem. There are a bunch of tools to help with this sort of thing, most are overkill for troubleshooting a home connection but I like Free Ping Tool from ManageEngine. But yeah, ping would work fine to troubleshoot this and once you figure out where the problem is it will be easier to troubleshoot. If you have other clients on the network I would set up the test on them as well, even if you're not playing Overwatch on them, just so you know when the problem occurs if it is an issue with the client or the router (if it's not the internet connection.) Internet Explorer fucked around with this message at 19:18 on Jun 12, 2017 |
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Jun 12, 2017 19:08
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The short questions thread sent me over here with this question. I'm a dumb baby who only has tenuous understanding of wireless internet. The bottom line is that we're getting 66mbps through the modem and only like 12-15 on wireless (the 15 is sitting 10ft from the router). AFAIK getting a newer router should help because ours is old as poo poo . I was looking into replacing it with one of these two from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IUDUJE0/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I4W388ERL1TVV&colid=37D300IH5YYMC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXL1AR8/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=IAWWLO9GB4Q20&colid=37D300IH5YYMC Will this help my problem? Which one should I get?
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Jun 13, 2017 13:26
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JibbaJabberwocky posted:The short questions thread sent me over here with this question. Either of those work fine. I think the TP link is a bit better in terms of the firmware.
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Jun 13, 2017 14:06
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I have to run a security camera to a gate that's about 600 ft. away from the house. Would a pair of locom5's do the job or should I get nsm5 or something different?
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Jun 13, 2017 21:58
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CubanMissile posted:I have to run a security camera to a gate that's about 600 ft. away from the house. Would a pair of locom5's do the job or should I get nsm5 or something different? I can’t imagine that the bandwidth demands are great, and 600 ft through open air is nothing. This is the perfect use case for LOCOs, basically.
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Jun 13, 2017 22:19
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Platystemon posted:I can’t imagine that the bandwidth demands are great, and 600 ft through open air is nothing. I'm a little confused on power standards. Am I correct the the 24v passthough POE on the locom5 won't be able to power a 802.3af camera?
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Jun 13, 2017 22:34
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CubanMissile posted:I'm a little confused on power standards. Am I correct the the 24v passthough POE on the locom5 won't be able to power a 802.3af camera? Correct.
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Jun 13, 2017 22:40
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Platystemon posted:I can’t imagine that the bandwidth demands are great, and 600 ft through open air is nothing. The locoM5 will easily max out 100Mbps in worse conditions than this, so unless it's an application that demands gigabit, it's really hard to beat them.
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Jun 14, 2017 01:00
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Yeah, I might even start with just one and see how that works connected to the main AP.
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Jun 14, 2017 01:17
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Can never go wrong with LocoM5s. I have about 15 or so links in use at work for carrying streams from IP cams placed in outbuildings at our various branches. With links ranging from 300ft to over 1000ft. I get a solid 98Mbps throughput on all of them. They are basically set and forget.
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Jun 14, 2017 15:07
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Didn't know where else to put this as there is no general business/enterprise networking thread. So.. Anyone have any recommendations on a 16-24 port PoE switch with a built in PoE watchdog function built in? i.e. the switch can ping a IP/host on each port and power cycle the port if no response. I see that the Ubiquiti ToughSwitch line has this feature, but I need more ports than that. This is going to be for a bunch of IP cams at a new location. Have had problems in the past with a camera going non-responsive on occasion. Would like to make fixing it automatic 
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Jun 14, 2017 16:02
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