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Shocks, sway bar end links, wheel bearings. There's a decent chance whatever wheel has the bent tie rod probably has a roached bearing. How bad is the rack leaking? If it's just a drop here and there I'd ignore it and top the fluid off when needed. Some people won't like this, but I'd probably at least do a drain/fill on the transmission as well. Not a full out flush. Fresh coolant wouldn't be a bad idea either, though you'll need to figure out what's in there now.
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Jun 17, 2017 06:34
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Change the filter while you're doing the draining because that pan has to come off anyways. You'll need a T-40 torx to take that bracket off. Look at the transmission pan before going to buy the filter, if one end is notched to provide clearance for the exhaust, you need the deep pan filter. Also, be ready to replace both knock sensors including the wiring harness for them when the first one fails and your evap vent valve at some point. They will fail.
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Jun 17, 2017 06:43
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Shocks, sway bar end links, wheel bearings. There's a decent chance whatever wheel has the bent tie rod probably has a roached bearing. Good point on the wheel bearing. I'm not sure how bad the rack is leaking, it hasn't had time to leave a spot in the driveway yet. I've never messed with a steering rack before, I'd want to replace the bellows too, right? Anything else? quote:Some people won't like this, but I'd probably at least do a drain/fill on the transmission as well. Not a full out flush. Fresh coolant wouldn't be a bad idea either, though you'll need to figure out what's in there now. That's my SOP on new old cars. I'll probably replace the thermostat and radiator hoses while I'm at it. ETA: Cop Porn Popper posted:Also, be ready to replace both knock sensors including the wiring harness for them when the first one fails and your evap vent valve at some point. They will fail. And you just named the other issue that I need to address... 
monsterzero fucked around with this message at 07:05 on Jun 17, 2017 |
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Jun 17, 2017 06:58
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Boys who love boys
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:
Counterpoint: he has to replace an inner tie rod anyway and the new rack may come with those already installed.
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Jun 17, 2017 15:36
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IOwnCalculus posted:Counterpoint: he has to replace an inner tie rod anyway and the new rack may come with those already installed. They do. Basically it's an extra $120 plus shipping, plus hoses. I've seen some sources recommend replacing them at the same time because debris, but I'm considering skipping that because beater. And now for a question of religion. For things like bushings and ball joints, it it worth springing for name brand/premium parts? I'm taking like Moog, or Mevotech versus the economy tier on RockAuto, maybe not eBay specials from Shenzhen. I know to expect to replace everything every 50k, which will be years for me but if I can get away with cheap parts and regular inspections I'm okay with that.
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Jun 17, 2017 16:47
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monsterzero posted:I don't have Matrx specific knowledge but I've done struts. They aren't particularly hard if you're fortunate like me and live someplace rust free. It's always been bolt on-bolt off but if you have rusty hardware and you're using a limited tool set it could suck. Compressing coil springs can be kind of sketchy too, depending on the model of car but if you're careful and have a compressor with lock pins it's safe. I don't have spring compressors and they don't look terribly expensive and I have the other tools. I DO however live in a place where rust is prevalent and I'm all about avoiding dick pain, so I'll sleep on it and mull it over. Thanks!
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Jun 17, 2017 18:05
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Eat This Glob posted:I don't have spring compressors and they don't look terribly expensive and I have the other tools. I DO however live in a place where rust is prevalent and I'm all about avoiding dick pain, so I'll sleep on it and mull it over. Thanks! Spring compressors can be rented from most auto parts chains for like $50 (full refund when you're done.)
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Jun 17, 2017 18:39
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Eat This Glob posted:Anyone have an idea about how difficult it'd be to replace struts on a 2006 AWD Toyota Matrix? The shop my wife and I use regularly quote around 5 hours for the labor at a rate of around $75/hr. I'd happily take the time to do the work if it's, let's say, average difficulty for a bolt on, bolt off type amateur mechanic like me. If it's a kick in the dick (5 hours makes me think it'll be a bit of a pain, but I've never touched anything that affects ride quality other than ball joints) I'll just let the pros take care of it. It's a winter beater that's got a case of the shakes, so I've got plenty of time before it's a daily driver again. If your concerned about your safety don't mess with spring compressors. Buy "quick struts" instead. Otherwise beware that there is tons of energy contained in springs and people get seriously injured when things go wrong. monsterzero posted:I just bought a beater truck and I'm turgid with wrenching anticipation. It's a 247,000 mile 2001 Silverado 1500 2WD/5.3L, with a bent inner tie rod and a leaking steering rack. I see I can get a reman rack for about $140 after core return online, so I'm going to order one and tie rod ends, plus new upper/lower control arm bushing and ball joints. Anything else I should swap out while I'm in there? Shocks? I assume anything rubber is garbage at 247k. and I'm going to have to get it aligned so I might as well go for it. Pitman arm for sure. All of the tie rods, ball joints and shocks if you want it to feel like new. You may just want to buy a whole front end kit. But then again, if it ain't broke... E: Ohh wait ignore me. Mine was 4wd. Steering rack, not box. Duh. As for quality parts aftermarket is universally poo poo tier, I would get them from the dealer. rdb fucked around with this message at 18:58 on Jun 17, 2017 |
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Jun 17, 2017 18:54
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monsterzero posted:And now for a question of religion. For things like bushings and ball joints, it it worth springing for name brand/premium parts? I'm taking like Moog, or Mevotech versus the economy tier on RockAuto, maybe not eBay specials from Shenzhen. I know to expect to replace everything every 50k, which will be years for me but if I can get away with cheap parts and regular inspections I'm okay with that. I used the cheapest poo poo available when I did the front suspension on my old Ranger, and while it never wore out or got as loose as the original parts... it was also never going to last anywhere near as long. On one of the control arms, for example, the crimp to hold the ball joint boot was done poorly so the boot was exposed pretty much day two. I didn't want to do the work again so 
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Jun 17, 2017 19:19
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rdb posted:As for quality parts aftermarket is universally poo poo tier, I would get them from the dealer. Just l priced a handful of parts online, and the prices were 3-6x name-brand aftermarket, and more than I care to put into a 1/4 million-mile truck. IOwnCalculus posted:I used the cheapest poo poo available when I did the front suspension on my old Ranger, and while it never wore out or got as loose as the original parts... it was also never going to last anywhere near as long. On one of the control arms, for example, the crimp to hold the ball joint boot was done poorly so the boot was exposed pretty much day two. ^^^ My future. I'm going for better than what I've got and good enough for 15-20k. Think I'll order a mix of Economy tier (bushings) and DD (ball joints) and see how it holds up.
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Jun 17, 2017 20:01
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Do the quality of brake pads and rotors matter? I have a brake job coming up and would like to avoid $250 OEM pad kits. Rotors don't need to be replaced right? Can I just go with the cheapest off of RockAuto or will I regret it? One of the last posts just said aftermarket is universally bad, but I'm assuming that discussion is limited to steering stuff?
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Jun 17, 2017 20:10
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Michael Scott posted:Do the quality of brake pads and rotors matter? I have a brake job coming up and would like to avoid $250 OEM pad kits. Rotors don't need to be replaced right? There's a huge array of variation with brake pads but even the "economy" pads that Rock Auto sells will work for a daily driver. With rotors you generally can get away with buying the cheapest blank rotors available. There really isn't much to gently caress up here - all you need is an iron disc to act as a friction surface for your brake pads.
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Jun 17, 2017 20:20
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On rotors - I've made it a habit to replace them with pads since it's only two more bolts on most cars and they're dirt cheap parts. Start off with a nice clean surface to bed the pads onto. I keep the old ones around to have turned whenever I do another pad swap. With that said, I have yet to go through more than one set of pads on any vehicle I've owned other than my C10.
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Jun 17, 2017 20:28
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Michael Scott posted:Do the quality of brake pads and rotors matter? I have a brake job coming up and would like to avoid $250 OEM pad kits. Rotors don't need to be replaced right? Just match the type of pad and your ok. IE replace semi metallic with semi metallic, ceramic with ceramic, etc. Ceramic pads don't make dust but require more surface area to stop the same as a semi metallic. A major name brand (Raybestos, Bendix, Delco etc) with a lifetime warranty is nice to have as well. What I meant was a $5 ball joint from china in my opinion is not worth the hassle when I was describing aftermarket parts. Same thing applies to anything electricity runs through, EGR valves, walker exhaust parts in the rust belt, things labeled remanufactured. Common wear items like brakes and wiper blades your ok.
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Jun 17, 2017 21:12
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My 2001 Honda Accord has had problems with water accumulating on the floor on the passenger's side after it rains. I took it to two mechanics and neither was able to find the source of the problem--doesn't appear to be leaking through the top or sides. I looked underneath the passenger's side today and noticed there is a small hole underneath where the water usually accumulates. Could this be the problem? If so, should I just squirt a bunch of caulk or sealant in there or something?
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Jun 17, 2017 21:15
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You can try. That hole may be a drain and plugging it may make it worse so use something you can remove. Tracking down leaks can be difficult. Does the car have a sunroof? The sunroof drains are a prime suspect.
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Jun 17, 2017 21:34
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After posting a page or two ago, about hearing a bunch of bad noises going over bumps, the opionion seems to be that I need new struts for my 09 Corolla. I don't want to fool around with spring compressors so I'd rather get the pre-mounted strut/spring combos. Looking at Rock auto, I see that they have them by a couple different companies. The economy line comes with FCS (never heard of them but that doesn't mean poo poo) struts and springs made by whoever the gently caress. I'm a bit confused though because they're shown under the economy heading, but each part listing says "premium". Anyone know what the deal is with that? Also, they have listed under the original ride quality heading, Spring/strut combos made by Monroe. I've always heard that pretty much the only time people use Monroe stuff is solely for the purpose of putting the car up for sale the next week so that you can say in the ad that the car has brand new (whatever). Are Monroes actually any good? What about the FCS stuff? I don't care about high performance stuff right now, and don't plan on selling the car anytime soon, so I don't want to buy the cheapest poo poo only to have to replace them again in 2 years.
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Jun 18, 2017 04:41
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Dont know about fcs stuff, but under original ride quality the KYB offerings are your best bet.
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Jun 18, 2017 11:25
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I have a 2001 Honda Civic LX and the check engine light went on recently. After about a week of driving the light suddenly went off and now it is no longer visible. I had made an appointment to get it checked out but now I'm thinking it won't be necessary since the car appears to be driving normal and there is nothing out of the ordinary. Do I still need to get it looked at?
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Jun 18, 2017 16:31
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ADolan posted:I have a 2001 Honda Civic LX and the check engine light went on recently. After about a week of driving the light suddenly went off and now it is no longer visible. I had made an appointment to get it checked out but now I'm thinking it won't be necessary since the car appears to be driving normal and there is nothing out of the ordinary. Do I still need to get it looked at? Is it a free check? Then do it. Put your mind at rest.
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Jun 18, 2017 16:37
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ADolan posted:I have a 2001 Honda Civic LX and the check engine light went on recently. After about a week of driving the light suddenly went off and now it is no longer visible. I had made an appointment to get it checked out but now I'm thinking it won't be necessary since the car appears to be driving normal and there is nothing out of the ordinary. Do I still need to get it looked at? Could have been just a loose gas cap. Did you buy gas before it went out? If you tightened it properly then, the problem would indeed go away. I'd hold off until it came on again, personally.
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Jun 18, 2017 16:38
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Deteriorata posted:Could have been just a loose gas cap. Did you buy gas before it went out? If you tightened it properly then, the problem would indeed go away. That was my first thought when it came on so I tightened my gascap just to be sure. However, it didn't go immediately turn off and then just randomly went out like 4 days later . I'm probably just going to wait and see if it comes on again before taking action.
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Jun 18, 2017 16:45
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Alternatively, if you're not in California, most parts stores will code check for free. If you were going to pay any amount just to have the codes pulled, you'd be better off spending that on your own scanner since they're dirt cheap.
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Jun 18, 2017 17:04
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I just got my transmission "fixed" and I want to make sure I'm not crazy. I took it off and to the shop with another vehicle. It was leaking. Anyway, before I put it back on, I flipped it on its side and filled it up with ATF like it specifies. The only problem is that it poured buckets out the driveshaft hole before I finished putting in the 7.6 pints it specifies. That's not supposed to happen, is it? Or did I screw up by filling it up on the ground and not on the truck with a driveshaft in that hole? It's a Mazda M5OD-R2 for an 88 F150. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Jun 18, 2017 |
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Jun 18, 2017 20:49
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You need the driveshaft in place.
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Jun 18, 2017 21:01
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:You need the driveshaft in place. Interesting. Then why did the transmission shop offer to fill it up for me if I had left in the speedometer sensor? Do they make plugs for that hole?
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Jun 18, 2017 21:16
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Yep, there are plastic plugs that fit in there. With that said I'd never want to install a filled transmission.
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Jun 18, 2017 22:15
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1987-ish Lada Niva 1600, carburettor with vac operated secondary, and manual choke. Starting from dead cold, the engine idles worse until when it's warmed up and it doesn't idle at all. Turning it off for maybe 20 seconds then restarting it sorts the issue. It idles fine. It's not the idle cut solenoid either. I've had two of them on there, and even taken the guts out so it can't kill the idle circuit. I've rebuilt the carburettor, and had it apart a few times because I don't trust myself. Everything was correctly adjusted and clean. Throw some ideas at me. There may have been something I've overlooked.
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Jun 19, 2017 00:07
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General_Failure posted:1987-ish Lada Niva 1600, carburettor with vac operated secondary, and manual choke. Fuel supply issue? Dirt in the tank gets sucked into the pickup and starves the fuel supply. Turn off the engine, suction is removed and the dirt floats away, freeing up the supply to allow it to restart.
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Jun 19, 2017 00:48
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yep, there are plastic plugs that fit in there. I don't know; I hear ATF makes an excellent skin conditioner/pomade.
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Jun 19, 2017 04:01
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PainterofCrap posted:I don't know; I hear ATF makes an excellent skin conditioner/pomade. It's an effective and enduring cologne.
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Jun 19, 2017 04:11
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Especially when burnt.IOwnCalculus posted:With that said I'd never want to install a filled transmission. Dear god this. It's usually a pretty flimsy plastic cap, if you look at it funny it'll fall out (usually while your face is right under the tail). Throw in the extra weight of the fluid for an extra side of gently caress you if you're installing it alone or without a good jack.
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Jun 19, 2017 04:57
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I found out yesterday that there is a small crack in the top of my radiator which explains where my coolant is going. From a quick search it seems like this is a common complaint with my car. Given the crack is hairline and very accessible is it worth trying to seal it with something? Or should I just buy a new radiator? It's a 2002 Toyota Altezza Gita/Lexus IS300.
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Jun 19, 2017 05:55
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Replace it. The rest of the plastic is in similar shape, and waiting to crack as soon as you fix that crack.
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Jun 19, 2017 07:27
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Yup. A patch on a plastic radiator is to limp you home if you have no other option, not a repair.
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Jun 19, 2017 07:38
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And "stop leak" will fill in all kinds of nooks and crannies you don't want filled in. Like the rest of the radiator, and your heater core. Radiators are dirt cheap, compared to the alternatives. I've replaced two radiators in the past year, and will be replacing the most recent one tomorrow, because it lasted a whopping five months before popping a weld.
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Jun 19, 2017 07:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yup. A patch on a plastic radiator is to limp you home if you have no other option, not a repair. Leaving the radiator cap loose (turned to the stop) accomplishes the same thing if the crack is on the top. I've had to use that one trick that radiator makers don't want you to know a few times now.
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Jun 19, 2017 10:39
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Leaving the radiator cap loose (turned to the stop) accomplishes the same thing if the crack is on the top. My truck is permanently this way because the core isn't worth repairing (this is like the third leak, they'll only get worse), and I don't have the like $700 for a real copper/brass replacement 
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Jun 19, 2017 11:56
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It's possible to seal a hairline radiator crack with the following: -JB Weld -Bondo (the kind with the hair in it) -Fiberglass Not recommended if you at all care about the vehicle and/or have concerns about things catching fire.
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Jun 19, 2017 12:13
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Especially when burnt. I had a hard enough time getting it off as it was. I bought the finest Harbor Freight transmission jack to get it off, and while the jack did help get it down, getting it out on my driveway was another issue. The bellhousing is integrated on the M5OD-R2 so add another 6-8" to the height, and another 4" or so for the jack. I had to pump up my truck on the left side as high as my floor jack would go, then start spinning the transmission just to get it to clear the rail. My wife was wondering what all the grunting and swearing in the driveway was. I had to explain to her that at 115 pounds empty, my transmission is heavier than she is. (She's 4'11" and tiny)
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Jun 19, 2017 16:30
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