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Facebook Aunt posted:I have an apartment noise problem. No, not the neighbours, it's me. Well, not me, exactly. Polystyrene panels might work well.
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# ? Jun 18, 2017 09:19 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 09:24 |
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As a general principle, plugging holes, cracks and gaps will do more to stop the sound than layering up without doing that. So if the door is loose-fitting, maybe some weatherstripping is also a good idea. Some kinds of polystyrene may be a fire hazard I think, so I guess look up the fire rating of whatever you intend to use.
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# ? Jun 18, 2017 10:08 |
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I don't know if this is a thing in the U.S. but in Czechia at least they have these big foam pads on the insides of doors. No idea what they'd be called in either language. Wish I had a pic.
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# ? Jun 18, 2017 11:27 |
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Facebook Aunt posted:I have an apartment noise problem. No, not the neighbours, it's me. Well, not me, exactly. Get a kitten.
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# ? Jun 18, 2017 15:15 |
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I'm in the middle of a massive house remodel and I had a question for someone more familiar with construction than me. Im laying hardwood and am on a pretty strict time schedule here, but the plasterer is running behind and has not got the priming/ceiling painting done yet. He has reservations about the humidity level in the house rising too high when he paints and its effect on the hardwood. My plan was to lay the rooms and then cover in thick plastic vapor barrier and top with cardboard dunnage the prevent the physical damage. I've got a 3 dehumidifiers going in the house, one is industrial sized, so I don't really see that painting with a spray gun being too big an issue, but I am not experienced with any of this and don't want to gently caress up a few hundred square feet of hardwood just to try and save on getting someone else to install. Is there any merit to the plasterers concerns?
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# ? Jun 18, 2017 16:47 |
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Facebook Aunt posted:I can work on correcting the behavior when I'm here, but I have no idea how much she does it when I'm not here. If you own a laptop it likely has an integrated microphone and some kind of sound recording program. (Memo taker, sound recorder, something.) Leave it open all day recording and see what you get. I suggest finding an app that will show you the waveform of the recording so you know where there is audio worth listening to rather than trying to scrub through 8 hours of recording.
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# ? Jun 18, 2017 17:12 |
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flashman posted:I'm in the middle of a massive house remodel and I had a question for someone more familiar with construction than me. Im laying hardwood and am on a pretty strict time schedule here, but the plasterer is running behind and has not got the priming/ceiling painting done yet. He has reservations about the humidity level in the house rising too high when he paints and its effect on the hardwood. My plan was to lay the rooms and then cover in thick plastic vapor barrier and top with cardboard dunnage the prevent the physical damage. I've got a 3 dehumidifiers going in the house, one is industrial sized, so I don't really see that painting with a spray gun being too big an issue, but I am not experienced with any of this and don't want to gently caress up a few hundred square feet of hardwood just to try and save on getting someone else to install. Is there any merit to the plasterers concerns? The amount of moisture and its duration in the air from painting will not impact the hardwood at all-- you'll get more variation seasonally.
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# ? Jun 18, 2017 18:11 |
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flashman posted:I'm in the middle of a massive house remodel and I had a question for someone more familiar with construction than me. Im laying hardwood and am on a pretty strict time schedule here, but the plasterer is running behind and has not got the priming/ceiling painting done yet. He has reservations about the humidity level in the house rising too high when he paints and its effect on the hardwood. My plan was to lay the rooms and then cover in thick plastic vapor barrier and top with cardboard dunnage the prevent the physical damage. I've got a 3 dehumidifiers going in the house, one is industrial sized, so I don't really see that painting with a spray gun being too big an issue, but I am not experienced with any of this and don't want to gently caress up a few hundred square feet of hardwood just to try and save on getting someone else to install. Is there any merit to the plasterers concerns? Typically you wait until those guys are done before you lay a floor so you don't get a bunch of crap falling on the hardwood. Like the other guy said, humidity is more seasonal, summer being the humid season. And you want a vapor barrier under it if you're on a concrete slab.
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# ? Jun 18, 2017 18:28 |
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PainterofCrap posted:Get a kitten. She's not alone, I have her sister too. She' just wants to holler for a few hours a day. Flipperwaldt posted:As a general principle, plugging holes, cracks and gaps will do more to stop the sound than layering up without doing that. So if the door is loose-fitting, maybe some weatherstripping is also a good idea. That's a good idea, I'll try that first.
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# ? Jun 18, 2017 19:29 |
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Mr. Mambold posted:Typically you wait until those guys are done before you lay a floor so you don't get a bunch of crap falling on the hardwood. Like the other guy said, humidity is more seasonal, summer being the humid season. And you want a vapor barrier under it if you're on a concrete slab. Thats good to know, I realize there can be damage from dropped objects or paint etc thats why I plan to cover it thoroughly with pretty robust dunnage. Glad to know I wont see any impact from the painting and priming on the wood, that was the plasterers "concern" (although I think he is just a bit of a prima donna and wants it all open to make it easier). Thanks alot for the quick answers guys.
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# ? Jun 18, 2017 20:25 |
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I can't find another thread that this question should go in, so I apologize if this is in the wrong spot, but here goes. One of my windows doesn't stay open any more. It feels really "heavy" when I open it, and oddly enough when it's closed it's not all the way down since the window locks won't close (although I got them to engage a little bit with the help of a screwdriver since I was leaving on vacation for a week). The strings on the sides of the window appear intact and taut, if that means anything. The window is 15 years old, if that matters. My concern is that if I go to a window place, of course they're going to try to sell me a new window when I am not convinced that's what I need. Ideas?
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# ? Jun 20, 2017 04:51 |
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LongSack posted:I can't find another thread that this question should go in, so I apologize if this is in the wrong spot, but here goes. There are springs you can adjust inside the jambs. YouTube "double hung window springs" or spiral springs and find a vid that looks like your windows.
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# ? Jun 20, 2017 05:22 |
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Anyone have any experience with using patio / concrete sealers? I had a company redo my pavers with sand and a sealant to give them that wet look. Turned out fine but my god it has been wreaking of that horrible solvent smell for four days now (the contractor said it would only be 24-48 hours) and it has been seeping into our house. It's been 80 degrees and sunny where I live, I don't know what the deal is. Can anyone give me an idea if and when this smell will go away? I think they used this product: https://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Coatings-SuperSeal-2000/dp/B00KGD4Z20/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497982418&sr=8-1&keywords=super+sealer+2000
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# ? Jun 20, 2017 19:19 |
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Big rear end fan? And it's "reeking".
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# ? Jun 20, 2017 20:16 |
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Anyone had experience working with "Chinese Cedar" ? We bought a playset for my kids last year. This year I've already noticed some splinters from the wood, as well as loosening of the fasteners The stuff is so soft that they aren't tightening well. The wood has a nice color and smell, but it's very light duty, with a similar texture and feel to balsa wood (a bit stronger, obviously). Most of my concerns are with the smaller boards which make up the walking surfaces and the picnic table underneath, the heavier beams seem to be fine. I'm thinking I need to treat and reinforce this stuff if it's going to last. I'm actually considering putting the BEHR deckover on the horizontal surfaces, as the wood has a very porous texture which I think will allow the deckover to grip well. My main question is on the fasteners, the softness of the wood isn't holding up well to any of the screws that are there, but I'm not sure what would be a good alternative.
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# ? Jun 21, 2017 12:39 |
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Tinfoil Papercut posted:Anyone had experience working with "Chinese Cedar" ? I read that first as Chinese Cheddar. You'll see splinters with any outdoor lumber over time. Have you considered bigger screws? Threaded thru-bolts? Idk how much of it you're looking at improving.
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# ? Jun 21, 2017 14:58 |
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Tinfoil Papercut posted:Anyone had experience working with "Chinese Cedar" ? Your picture didn't come through for me, but we got a Costco Gorilla Playsets model, the cedar wood seems very similar to what you're describing. It was delivered stained reddish-orange but not sealed, the fine print buried in the instructions said to seal it. I bought their sealant (reddish-brown poo poo) and sealed it before assembly in July of 2015. This year there was a bunch of bare wood (worn off, not peeled or bubbled finish) on the ladder and climbing wall where the kids step on it, so I redid a bunch of those sections. So far I'm happy with the finish performance, so you may want to look into that stuff for finishing. I know a number of people that have had similar reddish-orange sets delivered this year or last year. I've seen those instructions which say the same thing: delivered stained but not sealed, and the people skipped sealing. I'm sort of assuming theirs are gonna turn grey and splintery in a couple years, hopefully if I continue sealing once every year or two I should be able to maintain mine better. Not out of spite, I just want the work I put in following the instructions to get me something, as it sucked balls sealing it before putting it up, took way more time than the assembly. I haven't noticed any real deflection that I'm concerned about, and used an impact driver for all the hardware, which for sure dragged the t-nuts or washers into the wood somewhat. I tightened up a few bolts that were a little loose a couple times but nothing where I thought I was progressively tearing a fastener through the wood or I wasn't able to make it pretty drat stable. I guess if you're hand-tightening or using a clutched drill it may not hammer the stuff home? I assume the structure part of yours is bolts into t-nuts, with the decking and stuff just wood screws? If you're worried about the structure you an always add more hardware and/or bracing, t-nuts are sold at Home Depot and stuff. Not sure but getting some cedar for bracing shouldn't be too outrageous, you are probably looking at adding a couple joists to flooring and some diagonal braces strategically placed. edit: reread and seems like the concern is with the screws on the decking. So keep in mind that the screws aren't really taking any load, they're just holding the boards to the joists which provide the support. It seems to me as long as you can keep tightening the screws without literally plowing completely through the decking, it should hold it down nicely. Are they trimhead or bugle (I don't know the actual term but drywall head-looking)? Depending on how perfect you want it to look, you can upsize screws (get some high quality stainless or coated for cedar I think, double-check me on this) star or square drive decking screws, or you can try washers if there's a few screws and you don't mind it looking like poo poo. The other thing you mentioned was deckover, and I've heard nothing but complaints about that if you live anywhere with a real winter. I'm in the northeast, so based on reviews and complaints I ruled that out for a redecking project I'm doing. Not personal experience but I would say do your research because if you put that poo poo on and the finish fails, it seems like it'd be a nightmare to redo with something else. For what it's worth, Flexner's book on wood finishing (which I think is somewhat the Bible) essentially recommends solid or semisolid stain for horizontal traffic surfaces. Solid gives the best UV protection but fails by peeling once a film builds up, semisolid gives less UV protection but fails by wearing away, allowing what it seems like is less sanding and probably no scraping and just reapplying, where solid stain will eventually need scraping or much heavier sanding. I'm not an expert I'm just in the middle of a project I'm trying to learn about this stuff for. uwaeve fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Jun 21, 2017 |
# ? Jun 21, 2017 15:59 |
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Mr. Mambold posted:I read that first as Chinese Cheddar. You'll see splinters with any outdoor lumber over time. Have you considered bigger screws? Threaded thru-bolts? Idk how much of it you're looking at improving. It's only a year old, so I'm unhappy with the rate of deterioration - I expected it to last a few before it needed any attention. I'm looking at putting a few beams underneath the platform just to re-secure, and I'm leaning toward doing some flat head bolts and nuts with these types of washers: https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=185zs35
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# ? Jun 21, 2017 16:16 |
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You can't use http image links on the forum - rehost on imgur on https. uwaeve posted:Your picture didn't come through for me See above (I think this is just the stock photo of the playset).
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# ? Jun 21, 2017 18:23 |
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I ended up rolling the dice and hosing out that air conditioner, it was either that or junk it outright. It wasn't healthy to keep using it. It turned on, though I did let it dry for a good week just to be safe.
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# ? Jun 21, 2017 19:45 |
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uwaeve posted:Your picture didn't come through for me, but we got a Costco Gorilla Playsets model, the cedar wood seems very similar to what you're describing. It was delivered stained reddish-orange but not sealed, the fine print buried in the instructions said to seal it. I bought their sealant (reddish-brown poo poo) and sealed it before assembly in July of 2015. This year there was a bunch of bare wood (worn off, not peeled or bubbled finish) on the ladder and climbing wall where the kids step on it, so I redid a bunch of those sections. So far I'm happy with the finish performance, so you may want to look into that stuff for finishing. I know a number of people that have had similar reddish-orange sets delivered this year or last year. I've seen those instructions which say the same thing: delivered stained but not sealed, and the people skipped sealing. I'm sort of assuming theirs are gonna turn grey and splintery in a couple years, hopefully if I continue sealing once every year or two I should be able to maintain mine better. Not out of spite, I just want the work I put in following the instructions to get me something, as it sucked balls sealing it before putting it up, took way more time than the assembly. Yeah it's probably the same stuff as what you have. I had contractors put it together, so I may need to double check how they assembled the decking part because I'm having trouble getting the screws to secure any more than they are, and I get a lot of sag when I walk over it myself. I like the idea of upsizing the screws - I might try that out. I had some experience with Deckover on a trial area on my deck, and yes it is garbage. The reason I'm considering using it for real on this application is that the playset doesn't see nearly as much traffic/use as my deck, and a large part of the decking boards on the playset are covered with the roof. That, and it does get rid of the splinter concern. It's not a huge deal to me if it peels or flakes in a few spots - plus if you document the application you can call BEHR out on their warranty. Their product is poo poo but they will stand behind it and send you more. I actually am finishing up stripping all the old stain from my deck and applying a new oil based semi-solid, as you noted above. We went with "Armstrong-Clark" which had high reviews from what I saw. Had to go through a few samples to find a color I liked, but I love the way it goes on. I'll post some pics once I'm done.
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# ? Jun 22, 2017 11:31 |
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Stupid newbie painting question: What's the best way to touch up missed spots on walls/ceilings? I did a really poor job cutting in and there are some obvious places that I missed around the edges. Not like big sections, but smaller than dime-sized spots. Maybe 1/4" x 1/2" at the biggest. Big enough to be noticeable, but small enough where it seems like overkill to take a 2" brush to it. If I just go back at it with a brush am I going to leave visible brush strokes, or will it be fine? Should I get one of those foam brush things, or stick with a normal brush? Or is this where I should get a set of those tiny model airplane type brushes?
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# ? Jun 22, 2017 12:57 |
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The tiny little foam brushes are dope. I use them any time I'm painting for tough corners and touch-ups, never had a problem with them.
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# ? Jun 22, 2017 13:33 |
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DaveSauce posted:Stupid newbie painting question: A lot of those little flaws you get while painting wouldn't be noticed by anyone but you. If you take a small brush and do the touch ups, they certainty will never notice any minor strokes, and you'll eventually forget as well. I'm absolutely terrible at cutting in and have to tape everything.
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# ? Jun 22, 2017 14:05 |
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My wife has to do those jobs because I'm so bad at it. Paying for a good angled brush seemed to have made it much much easier for her though.
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# ? Jun 22, 2017 14:09 |
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I keep a very small artists paintbrush around. Lets you easily dab on little less-than-a-dime sized spots. You will feel very silly dabbing it into a gallon of paint.
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# ? Jun 22, 2017 15:30 |
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Sir Lemming posted:The tiny little foam brushes are dope. I use them any time I'm painting for tough corners and touch-ups, never had a problem with them. That's only if you have smooth walls. If you have textured or rough walls, little bits of foam will snag and tear off very easily.
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# ? Jun 22, 2017 17:02 |
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H110Hawk posted:I keep a very small artists paintbrush around. Lets you easily dab on little less-than-a-dime sized spots. You will feel very silly dabbing it into a gallon of paint. I bought a pack of small Harbor Freight brushes for applying finishes and glue to my woodworking projects. They're crap brushes, but they're also dirt cheap so I don't feel bad wasting one on a one-off project.
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# ? Jun 22, 2017 17:48 |
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I'm moving in to quite a small apartment with my partner, and I'm trying to figure out storage for every nook and cranny in our place. I've got a metal frame for my bed which I'm going to buy some organizers for on the floor, but I'm wondering about my box spring. It's just a regular wooden box spring for a queen size bed, but is there any way to DIY storage into it? I was thinking of just getting some scrap wood from... somewhere that I could use as a kind of scaffolding for boxes/drawers of some sort, but I'm wondering if it would even be worth it, or if I should just look into a cheap box spring, already pre-built, with storage included. Thoughts?
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# ? Jun 24, 2017 21:33 |
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Johnny Truant posted:I'm moving in to quite a small apartment with my partner, and I'm trying to figure out storage for every nook and cranny in our place. I've got a metal frame for my bed which I'm going to buy some organizers for on the floor, but I'm wondering about my box spring. It's just a regular wooden box spring for a queen size bed, but is there any way to DIY storage into it? I was thinking of just getting some scrap wood from... somewhere that I could use as a kind of scaffolding for boxes/drawers of some sort, but I'm wondering if it would even be worth it, or if I should just look into a cheap box spring, already pre-built, with storage included. Thoughts?
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# ? Jun 24, 2017 22:34 |
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No?
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# ? Jun 24, 2017 23:08 |
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Look at this guy who doesn't want a bunk bed. What an adult.
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# ? Jun 24, 2017 23:12 |
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Facebook Aunt posted:Look at this guy who doesn't want a bunk bed. What an adult. I fell out of my bunk bed freshmen year and wrecked my poo poo, never again I say!
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# ? Jun 24, 2017 23:24 |
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Johnny Truant posted:I fell out of my bunk bed freshmen year and wrecked my poo poo, never again I say! Design a reverse bunk bed where you put a desk above your bed then! But seriously, if you're crammed for space, you gotta go vertical.
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# ? Jun 24, 2017 23:37 |
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Tinfoil Papercut posted:But seriously, if you're crammed for space, you gotta go vertical. This is true. Build shelves everywhere, loft/bunk beds, bike hangers, etc.
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# ? Jun 24, 2017 23:56 |
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Oh I'm already planning on shelving the poo poo out of the place, but a bunk bed is out of the question. Ah well, thanks anyway.
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# ? Jun 25, 2017 00:00 |
Ditch the box spring and just get a captain's bed. Sometimes the storage is built in, sometimes it comes as a separate unit that slides in. In the latter case, you can get them on one side, both sides, maybe a hatch at the footboard, etc. Lotsa options, lotsa storage.
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# ? Jun 25, 2017 00:03 |
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Bad Munki posted:Ditch the box spring and just get a captain's bed. drat that's awesome, and not a bad idea. Are those able to be broken down and put back together, do you know?
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# ? Jun 25, 2017 00:12 |
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Johnny Truant posted:drat that's awesome, and not a bad idea. Are those able to be broken down and put back together, do you know? Did you see the bolts on the ends? edit: In general, if furniture isn't glued together, then it can be taken apart and reassembled.
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# ? Jun 25, 2017 00:13 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 09:24 |
I mean yeah, it depends, but most big wood furniture these days shows up in parts in a box and either your or someone from the furniture store puts it together, which means the process can be reversed. Same thing happens when you move: bed comes apart, ships, gets re-assembled.
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# ? Jun 25, 2017 01:09 |