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biracial bear for uncut posted:What would be the best power supply to use to avoid power issues being the problem? A lot of the popular "kits" on Amazon still come with the plug originally used on the Pi1 kit. I use these guys on our printers, powering them directly from the printer's power supply so that everything is self-contained.
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Jun 20, 2017 22:10
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biracial bear for uncut posted:What would be the best power supply to use to avoid power issues being the problem? A lot of the popular "kits" on Amazon still come with the plug originally used on the Pi1 kit. The official adapter is probably best tested
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Jun 20, 2017 22:21
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ickna posted:I'll pull the log when I get home later. It shouldn't be the power supply, I have a 2.5a one; but I am also running the official 7in display on it. I think I'll try it again with a new pi that runs a headless console-only raspbian and compile OctoPrint from source. I really hope it was a Pi issue and not the printer. OctoPrint is a cool bit of kit, especially the live gcode viewer. For purposes of a controlled test doing a DIY setup seems like it's guaranteed to add new variables to the equation. The OctoPi distribution works fine and by using it you know you're running the same binaries as a lot of the rest of us so any problems not specific to your exact hardware should be widely replicable.
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Jun 21, 2017 00:12
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wolrah posted:For purposes of a controlled test doing a DIY setup seems like it's guaranteed to add new variables to the equation. The OctoPi distribution works fine and by using it you know you're running the same binaries as a lot of the rest of us so any problems not specific to your exact hardware should be widely replicable. Do you mean the pre-compiled SD image? Somebody else upthread mentioned it was less reliable than compiling from source. Though I am willing to try it first for the sake of controlling variables.
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Jun 21, 2017 00:28
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ickna posted:Do you mean the pre-compiled SD image? Somebody else upthread mentioned it was less reliable than compiling from source. At least I am not aware of any stability issues (if I was I'd work with Guy (the image maintainer) to remove them) and it is indeed the best way to create a reproducible environment to help narrow down problems. With regards to solid power supplies, anything that puts out a steady 5V with 2A for Pi2, 2.5 to 3A for Pi3 (yes, there's quite some safety margin in there, but better err on the side of caution, brown out issues are horrible). Your random phone charger or cheap PSU off eBay probably doesn't. Personally I've recently discovered "Goobay 71899" for myself (around 8EUR off Amazon), but no idea about good options outside of Germany.
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Jun 21, 2017 17:55
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foosel posted:3A for Pi3 (yes, there's quite some safety margin in there, but better err on the side of caution, brown out issues are horrible). Your random phone charger or cheap PSU off eBay probably doesn't. Personally I've recently discovered "Goobay 71899" for myself (around 8EUR off Amazon), but no idea about good options outside of Germany. Maybe something like this one? https://www.amazon.com/standard-adaptor-External-Adapter-positive/dp/B01DPCPAQS
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Jun 21, 2017 18:50
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Maybe something like this one? For the Pi 3 I've had good luck with the Canakit 2.5A micro USB adapters they sell with their raspberry pi 3 kits. The first one I got didn't work at all but they two day shipped me a replacement that's been solid. I set another one up for my father as a media server and it's been using the same adapter. https://smile.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ I'm still using a RPi model B for Octoprint and it's been fine. I posted about it a couple of weeks ago and I found that even a 1.5A rated phone charger wasn't enough to handle the Pi and the Logitech C270 webcam. It would run Octoprint and just never be able to display from the webcam. Switching to a 2.5A adapter sorted those issues out.
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Jun 21, 2017 19:39
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Maybe something like this one? Maybe, maybe not. The problem with these things is that just because the manufacturer writes 5V, 3A on it doesn't meant it will actually hold the 5V of voltage or reliably deliver the advertised current over time. From what I have seen, it really is very much hit and miss sadly 
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Jun 21, 2017 19:46
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foosel posted:Maybe, maybe not. The problem with these things is that just because the manufacturer writes 5V, 3A on it doesn't meant it will actually hold the 5V of voltage or reliably deliver the advertised current over time. From what I have seen, it really is very much hit and miss sadly https://www.amazon.com/KNACRO-Switching-100V-240V-Interface-Surveillance/dp/B01M7UEPCT
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Jun 21, 2017 20:34
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I've found that the biggest problem with powering the Pi isn't the power rating of the adapter itself, but the voltage drop on the cable. Doesn't matter if you have a 10A 5V power supply if it has a 6ft cord with 26AWG wires in it (which will drop ~0.5V at 1A). For 1A power draw at 6ft the adapter needs a minimum of 22AWG wire to keep the Pi from triggering low voltage mode. Most 5V power supplies have 24AWG for 1A if they're good, or have wires labeled as 24AWG if they're Chinacheap. Neither of these will work without throttling / brownouts. The best thing to do is wire your printer's 12V power supply to a 5V buck converter module right by the Pi. I get a bunch of "mini buck converter" from eBay (at a cost of like 50 cents each) and just wire those inline and put a piece of heatshrink around them. I'd recommend the regular "buck converter" (at about a buck each) though because they already have integrated capacitors. I usually add my own capacitors because I have a ton of them.
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Jun 21, 2017 21:28
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Anyone here have any experience with the laser engraver kits? Thought I'd ask here since it's kinda close to building a 3d printer kit.
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Jun 22, 2017 05:23
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There's probably a lot of cross experience but there's also a thread for that: Fire, electrocution, and blindness may result: Chinese laser adventures
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Jun 22, 2017 05:55
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Anyone here have any experience with the laser engraver kits? Thought I'd ask here since it's kinda close to building a 3d printer kit. It's actually a far cry from it because laser engravers are a poo poo ton more dangerous if you do something wrong. Worst case with a 3d printer is it doesn't work. A laser engraver can explode and kill you (or kill you if you touch it while power is connected) if you do something wrong.
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Jun 22, 2017 15:15
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biracial bear for uncut posted:It's actually a far cry from it because laser engravers are a poo poo ton more dangerous if you do something wrong.
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Jun 22, 2017 16:37
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The only time a 3d printer will burn down your house is if you fill the room it's in with flammable aerosol or otherwise put it near things that will easily ignite.
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Jun 22, 2017 16:42
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3D printers have burned down plenty of houses. You can't combine cheap electronics and heating elements and NOT kill a few people the world over. Laser engravers make literal burning and smoke, though, and are like 100x more likely to cause a fire.
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Jun 22, 2017 17:52
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They might be asking about those solid state laser diode based ones, which are lower power but with like zero safety interlocks or even shielding from the beam. Or exhaust for that matter.
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Jun 22, 2017 18:25
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biracial bear for uncut posted:The only time a 3d printer will burn down your house is if you fill the room it's in with flammable aerosol or otherwise put it near things that will easily ignite. Like magicians flash paper.
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Jun 22, 2017 19:31
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Like magicians flash paper. I shouldn't insulate the heat bed with that stuff?
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Jun 22, 2017 19:35
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biracial bear for uncut posted:The only time a 3d printer will burn down your house is if you fill the room it's in with flammable aerosol or otherwise put it near things that will easily ignite. Metal Geir Skogul posted:3D printers have burned down plenty of houses. There are a LOT of idiots with 3D printers.
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Jun 23, 2017 01:27
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Welp, here is a wish list 3d printer/design that someone needs to figure out how to copy legally in an open-source way: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/814534542/blackbelt-3d-printer
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Jun 23, 2017 14:05
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Welp, here is a wish list 3d printer/design that someone needs to figure out how to copy legally in an open-source way:
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Jun 23, 2017 14:32
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Welp, here is a wish list 3d printer/design that someone needs to figure out how to copy legally in an open-source way: The only patents on it are the conveyor bed material, an adjustable print angle and the software they use to warp the g code to actually print things at an angle like that and still be the right shape.
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Jun 23, 2017 14:40
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My Prusa finally shipped. Little word of warning for others waiting on an order, wait time is more like 9 weeks now.
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Jun 23, 2017 18:43
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Luminaflare posted:The only patents on it are the conveyor bed material, an adjustable print angle and the software they use to warp the g code to actually print things at an angle like that and still be the right shape. I'll need to watch the video later but I am interested how that warping can permit things to hang mid air like this image from their site.  I need a shot or two to get a buzz going before I can withstand the apple flavor of smugness in that video. Also Presaydent Oh-BAYH-mah
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Jun 23, 2017 19:20
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EVIL Gibson posted:I'll need to watch the video later but I am interested how that warping can permit things to hang mid air like this image from their site. X & Z are basically on an angle relative to the Y bed if you think of it as a modified i3, with the hotend tilted to compensate for the axis tilt.  So it's basically bridging after it prints the main left-hand body of the sketch you posted, all it really does is change the angle where unsupported bridging can work.
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Jun 23, 2017 19:23
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I need a hand. I've been printing on my Makergear M2 for many years with much success. I almost always print in PLA these days because it's easier and I don't have an enclosure for ABS. In the last... two weeks? Every print I have been producing has been massively curling off the bed. Way, way more than ever before. The biggest changed variable I can see is that I swapped my brass nozzles out for stainless steel ones, because it seemed like the SS nozzles would hold up better to some of the filaments I wanted to use. I am using the exact same print and slicing settings, same temperature, same brand(s) of PLA as before, nothing else seems too different. Examples:    This is nightmarish. I don't know what's up. I print the PLA at 215, bed at 70 degrees C, sprayed with hairspray. Never had issues like this before. In fact, I've printed the exact part pictured above without much issue. Any ideas? Is the changed nozzle really that big a deal?
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Jun 23, 2017 21:10
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Do you live somewhere where it got hot and you recently turned on the air conditioning that has a vent that blows near your printer? I recently had bad PLA warping off the heated bed when I unintentionally had more fan air blowing onto the bed. It only took a little piece of plastic to block it and prevent the warping and peeling.
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Jun 23, 2017 21:37
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I bought a cheap Chinese makerbot clone, then an unproven e3d bigbox Kickstarter and the only printer that keeps jamming is the goddamn Taz 6 that the company paid for. It's almost like heat creep or something is snagging in the hotened during retractions but it's so random I can't relaibly replicate the issue to troubleshoot. Anyone have a taz6 who can post their PLA settings to see if I'm missing anything obvious?
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Jun 23, 2017 22:22
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Rexxed posted:Do you live somewhere where it got hot and you recently turned on the air conditioning that has a vent that blows near your printer? I recently had bad PLA warping off the heated bed when I unintentionally had more fan air blowing onto the bed. It only took a little piece of plastic to block it and prevent the warping and peeling. There's an AC in the printer room, but not really blowing at the printer. I tried putting a cardboard box around the printer and it solved nothing.
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Jun 24, 2017 01:43
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Harvey Baldman posted:I need a hand. Crapshoot but is this the exact same batch and colour of PLA as before?
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Jun 24, 2017 03:56
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Harvey Baldman posted:
70C seems hot for a PLA print. PLAs glass transition temperature is about 60, I never exceed 55. Worth a shot.
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Jun 24, 2017 04:09
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Megabound posted:70C seems hot for a PLA print. PLAs glass transition temperature is about 60, I never exceed 55. Worth a shot. I will try this. tuyop posted:Crapshoot but is this the exact same batch and colour of PLA as before? It is. Dark Grey Push Plastic PLA. It is (was?) my favorite.
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Jun 24, 2017 04:43
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Megabound posted:70C seems hot for a PLA print. PLAs glass transition temperature is about 60, I never exceed 55. Worth a shot. Yeah I had a lot of adhesion problems with a red and just kept jacking up my bed temperature until 75C and it never got better, then I lowered the z offset and slowed the initial layer and went down to 60C and it was all solved.
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Jun 24, 2017 04:45
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Maybe try a different filament roll (of the same material)? It sounds like all the usual suspects have already been ruled out, maybe it's a bad batch.
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Jun 24, 2017 11:33
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I've got to drive the Prusa i3 five hours this week and I don't want to take it all apart. I saw this tweet from Josef Prusa hisself https://twitter.com/josefprusa/status/738738151649333248?lang=en But nobody ever responded with where to get the models. Where do you get those models?
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Jun 24, 2017 17:41
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tuyop posted:I've got to drive the Prusa i3 five hours this week and I don't want to take it all apart. I saw this tweet from Josef Prusa hisself https://twitter.com/josefprusa/status/738738151649333248?lang=en Looks like this zip: https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk2-f23/where-is-the-y-motor-stabilizer-stl--t2017.html#p15907
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Jun 24, 2017 17:46
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Anyone have a good guide on calibration for part fitting? I know of this, but it is hard to follow and is designed for Skeinforge. I want something easier and more open ended. Edit: I may have fixed this by setting extrusion multiplier to 0.9. But now my top surfaces have little holes in them. Revol fucked around with this message at 00:43 on Jun 25, 2017 |
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Jun 24, 2017 20:13
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Does anyone else have to change z offset when printing with PETG? Same layer height, won't stick unless I use -.6 when -.3 works with PLA.
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Jun 26, 2017 01:25
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Revol posted:Anyone have a good guide on calibration for part fitting? I know of this, but it is hard to follow and is designed for Skeinforge. I want something easier and more open ended. Don't change your extrusion multiplier to alter part dimensions -- that is designed for tweaking flow rate when you don't have precisely measured filament diameter/extruder gearing. Dropping it down significantly (10% is a lot) may shrink the outer edges of the part because there literally isn't enough plastic to squeeze out to the intended width, but the fundamental problem is that the positioning code isn't properly accounting for the actual width of the trace that's being put down. So if your parts aren't fitting in X and Y dimensions, look at your trace widths; if they aren't fitting in Z, check your z-system accuracy and improve part cooling. Or just print a test part and then make adjustments to the next print accordingly. I use 0.5mm of tolerance between printed parts for a slip-fit, 0.2mm for a jam-fit. Or break out the files and sandpaper. Nothing elbow grease can't fix.
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Jun 26, 2017 02:00
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