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Also, change your cabin air filter if you haven't done that recently.
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Jul 12, 2017 07:15
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I never realized this but apparently some trims of the Versa are so cheap that they come without a cabin air filter. How many miles are on that thing anyway? In either case here's a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uds8fUPj1u0
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Jul 12, 2017 07:20
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Hey is there an equivalent of wiper fluid for the inside of the car windows? I've tried a couple ordinary surface cleaner-type things but they leave distracting streaks on the windshield.
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Jul 12, 2017 09:39
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Vincent Van Goatse posted:Hey is there an equivalent of wiper fluid for the inside of the car windows? I've tried a couple ordinary surface cleaner-type things but they leave distracting streaks on the windshield. Windex.
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Jul 12, 2017 10:08
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Virginia Slams posted:I appreciate the reply, I somewhat figured that was the reasoning. Was it a chain/franchise type shop? They can be bad for telling you their reasoning, or they have a rule where they have to do uppers and lowers together so it won't matter which it is because you'll be buying both anyway. Either way, if you drive your car daily I'd expect maybe a 4-5 day time frame (possibly less if your commute is long) where if the sound doesn't come back then it's the control arm. After about 4 days of driving I wouldn't be too surprised if the original sound came back because there's less grease.
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Jul 12, 2017 11:47
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Vincent Van Goatse posted:Hey is there an equivalent of wiper fluid for the inside of the car windows? I've tried a couple ordinary surface cleaner-type things but they leave distracting streaks on the windshield. As said, good old Windex is good. If it's not doing a good job, use something like a microfiber towel to really clean up the streaks. I had such a huge problem with Windex just streaking crap around a really dirty windshield until I used one of those special-made microfiber things on a stick. Really is a huge improvement over paper towels and such.
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Jul 12, 2017 12:13
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Just make sure you get the Windex without ammonia if you have tinted windows.
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Jul 12, 2017 12:49
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I tried Windex and there were still some streaky bits so I just gave the windshield a vigorous wiping with a paper towel. Seems to have done the trick. Thanks.
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Jul 12, 2017 13:52
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Try newspaper. Not kidding, it works wonders.
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Jul 12, 2017 15:13
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Michael Scott posted:For 2, a really soaked rag and soap will be fine. As long as it's super wet you won't do any damage to the paint, just don't use a ton of force. Car paint is tough. For 1, personally I wouldn't let it worry you unless you experience performance issues with the HVAC. It does have weird smells sometimes that go away after a minute or two. Condensation from dew if your area is humid? Thanks for the cleaning tip. The car spent most of its life in a very dry area, but less than a year ago moved to a place that's way more humid so it could be something I'm just not used to? We've been here since September, though. Lots of time to notice something like that. Michael Scott posted:I never realized this but apparently some trims of the Versa are so cheap that they come without a cabin air filter. 43,500km so about 27,000 miles. It's an SV, which I think was the next step above the absolute cheapest trim (at least in the Canadian roster, not sure if it's different here). I'll check out the filter thing, thanks. Mak0rz fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Jul 12, 2017 |
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Jul 12, 2017 16:56
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No cabin filter isn't all that uncommon, the MSP didn't have one despite being the top trim. Just didn't have provision for one. I should check if the crown vic has one, actually. The engine filter looked brand new when I got it, but I never checked the other.
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Jul 12, 2017 18:44
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Bad Munki posted:I'm about to inherit a 66 Datsun roadster that I need to ship from Seattle, WA to Des Moines, IA. Any specifically goon-recommended transport companies? I've never shipped a car before so I don't have much of a baseline here. Is it drivable? Get Dick guy to drive it to a field in Valentine Nebraska. Its only about 7 hours from Des Moines.
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Jul 12, 2017 19:49
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It is. I'd drive it myself if I had time. Although it's old enough to only have lap belts so if you get in even a minor fender bender, you get to eat dash 
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Jul 12, 2017 20:22
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Vincent Van Goatse posted:I tried Windex and there were still some streaky bits so I just gave the windshield a vigorous wiping with a paper towel. Seems to have done the trick. Thanks. Next time, give Stoner's Invisible Glass a try. That poo poo is serious magic, and it's safe for tint. Walmart and Target sell it, you can get it in both aerosol and regular spray.
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Jul 12, 2017 22:46
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Next time, give Stoner's Invisible Glass a try. That poo poo is serious magic, and it's safe for tint. Seconding invisible glass. That poo poo is miraculous.
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Jul 12, 2017 22:50
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I usually just use a dry microfiber cloth to clean the inside of my windshield. If it's just the film/haze that develops, the microfiber takes it off with a little muscle and doesn't leave streaks. Though, I usually miss a spot or two what isn't noticeable until I drive towards the sun.
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Jul 12, 2017 23:51
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Boys who love boys
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I'm planning to buy a new Corolla this week. After the test drive, I saw a scratch on the driver door/panel in front of the door that looked like a hair or strand of spiderweb. I didn't inspect it extremely well but how should I handle this? My current plan is to go back and see if I can feel it with my fingernail. If so, I probably wouldn't want to buy the car, but they don't have another one on the lot that I like. I feel like if I ask for another car to be brought in they will try to take advantage of me somehow. I'm also concerned they will ask for a chance to fix it, but from what I have read, if you can feel the scratch it's not 100% fixable. I guess I'm just looking for outside perspectives. Thanks.
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Jul 13, 2017 01:20
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Any car you buy was delivered to the dealership on the back of a truck: there are going to be imperfections and flaws. Also, even if you can just feel it with a fingernail, a scratch that doesn't penetrate through the clearcoat can be fixed. Finally: within a day or two of driving off the lot, you will begin to accumulate tiny dings and nicks, and swirls in the coat after your first wash. People are gonna bump it in the parking lot, gravel is kicked up on the freeway, etc. It feels horrible the first time you realize your perfect new car has been spoiled, but it's better to just get past that feeling as soon as possible and accept that that perfection you bought is extremely, extremely temporary. If you find you really can't handle this, it's better to just save some money and buy a used car.
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Jul 13, 2017 01:25
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That sounds reasonable. So basically just make sure it's not through to the paint/metal? And if they offer to fix it then let them give it a shot?
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Jul 13, 2017 01:38
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Absolutely. So long as it's not through the clear, they can probably buff it out. You'll want to make sure to keep a good coat of wax at least on that panel, since the clear will be a little thinner afterwards. It sounds like this is a Toyota dealer, right? They'll either have their own body shop, or a body shop they contract their work to. Either way, they'll be able to get it fixed for a lot less than you could. See what they say about it.
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Jul 13, 2017 02:08
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Also, dealers swap cars with each other all the time. If you don't want that one, they can find another one nearby that's like it and ship it in. If they want the sale badly enough, they'll work with you.
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Jul 13, 2017 02:15
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That too. When my mom bought her Avalon, they sold the car out from under her ( ) and didn't have another one optioned the same way on their lot.. or apparently anywhere else in DFW. So they swapped cars with a dealer in Baton Rouge LA (she bought it in Plano TX). It meant her car had about 450 miles on it when she got it instead of <50 (they drove it down instead of shipping it, that's another can of wtf, but...), but meh, she got the car she wanted. Still has it, with about 160k now.
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Jul 13, 2017 02:19
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Fuel injector cleaner - yea or nay? I ran an explorer for 6 years, and put it in religiously, and still had the injectors clog. My frontier I ran for 12 years without ever using it, and it's still going strong (I gave it to my goddaughter when I bought my mustang). So my experiences are mixed, just wondering what the consensus is here.
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Jul 13, 2017 04:02
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I've run about half a can of seamfoam through my gas tank maybe a half dozen times over 13 years/~130k miles in my Focus, still on the factory injectors and it still gets high 20 MPG highway with me driving it like I stole it and with a shortened final drive ratio (4.:06 instead of the factory 3:82.)
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Jul 13, 2017 04:25
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Geoj posted:I've run about half a can of seamfoam through my gas tank maybe a half dozen times over 13 years/~130k miles in my Focus, still on the factory injectors and it still gets high 20 MPG highway with me driving it like I stole it and with a shortened final drive ratio (4.:06 instead of the factory 3:82.) Surprisingly, my 5.0 liter V8 mustang gets around 23MPG in mixed driving while my V6 Frontier got around 20. And the mustang has a 3.55 rear end, though I don't know what the stock RE is on the frontier. I will confess that my foot is also a tad leaden esp since I put in the Borla S-Type cat back exhaust ... it just sounds so good when accelerating.
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Jul 13, 2017 04:55
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LongSack posted:Fuel injector cleaner - yea or nay? Consensus seems to be that the '15ml per tank, every tank' doesn't do anything. The '1 can per tank every x months/miles' (e.g. Seafoam, BG44) may work.
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Jul 13, 2017 10:09
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How common is it for parts to share part numbers between brands? The ~3 1/2 year old Dayco belt that came off of my car e: belt got replaced purely because it had almost 80k on it. it wound up looking almost new when it came off. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:24 on Jul 13, 2017 |
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Jul 13, 2017 10:10
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Very common for things like belts, where the part number is often just a code incorporating information on length and profile. Edit: the "050405" should be a 5-rib belt 40.5" long. See? InitialDave fucked around with this message at 11:19 on Jul 13, 2017 |
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Jul 13, 2017 11:11
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Vincent Van Goatse posted:I tried Windex and there were still some streaky bits so I just gave the windshield a vigorous wiping with a paper towel. Seems to have done the trick. Thanks. Newspaper..... Seriously. I used to (still do) hate cleaning my windows, but Newspaper works dope. I spray with windex, use a blue shop paper towel and wipe the poo poo out of it, then another dry blue shop towel, followed by newspaper. Works fuckin dope.
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Jul 13, 2017 11:28
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Seconding newspaper. An old trick I learned from my mother that she learned from hers.
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Jul 13, 2017 11:42
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:How common is it for parts to share part numbers between brands? Very. Oddly, the belt makers in the US have a largely agreed upon system with their part numbers where you'll be able to tell style of belt, width/number of ribs and OD to the nearest 10th of an inch (or close enough) from the part number. Its quite handy once you learn to read them and you can start making up belt numbers to get a longer or shorter belt as needed.
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Jul 13, 2017 11:51
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:e: belt got replaced purely because it had almost 80k on it. it wound up looking almost new when it came off. Modern belts are EPDM and don't crack like old rubber belts. But they still need to be replaced when worn. They wear like tires - the "tread depth" between ribs becomes shallower, and they'll have less grip on the pullies. Visually it's very hard to see, but they'll start to slip on power steering pumps when they wear down.
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Jul 13, 2017 18:14
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I'm looking to pick up some suspension poo poo on Rock Auto. does anyone know if Strut mounts, bellows, Insulators etc come in pairs of individually? I know the coil springs come in pairs, and are listed as coming in pairs. I suppose if the other parts came in pairs they would also be listed as that, but I want to make sure before I possibly order four of a bunch of stuff.
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Jul 13, 2017 20:39
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wesleywillis posted:I'm looking to pick up some suspension poo poo on Rock Auto. does anyone know if Strut mounts, bellows, Insulators etc come in pairs of individually? Individually, unless they are explicitly listed as pairs. Stupid Question: Anyone have any recommendation for a source of cut vinyl decals. I need to slap a name on my boat (11-letters, 6"-ish tall) and I'm coming up with wildly different prices by random googling. Is sign-lettering going to be a better deal than die-cut? Only need one but I would like to provide the art as a .svg because fonts.
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Jul 13, 2017 20:58
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Cop Porn, Dave, thanks. Makes sense.0toShifty posted:Modern belts are EPDM and don't crack like old rubber belts. But they still need to be replaced when worn. No power steering pump on my car - the belt only runs the alternator and ac compressor. It does show a little bit of cracking on the ribs, but you have to look pretty close. The original belt looked fine right up until it shredded at 101k; I'm a bit gunshy about running them past 75k now.
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Jul 13, 2017 21:02
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Duncan Doenitz posted:So I have a 2011 Ford Focus SE, 2.0L 4cyl that has been giving me several issues over the last few months, which might be related. When idling, the RPMs periodically drop, such that if it was a manual I'd be afraid of it stalling out. I recently tried to recharge the A/C (which is barely cold, even on full blast) with R-134a and the gauge showed a spike in pressure every time this happened; after emptying the can, the A/C remained weak. The last one is that when I apply the brakes, rather than a smooth decrease in speed, the car feels very jerky, and it's worse the harder you brake. Could some type of leak in one of the systems cause these issues? I'm very much not mechanically inclined, unfortunately. I have a 2007 Focus SE with the same engine, and last summer my AC compressor pulley bearings went bad. It was putting enough drag on the accessory belt that it would cause the symptoms you're describing when in drive with the AC on, and the car to stall when the AC was turned on and I shifted into neutral or park. The drag on the belt was causing the alternator to be unable to put out enough voltage to keep the car running at idle, and it was also causing issues with trying to turn the AC on. I would have to open the hood and tap the end of the pulley with a breaker bar to get it to start spinning. If you can, try taking the serpentine belt just off the compressor and spin the pulley by hand, it should be perfectly smooth but if you feel any drag on it then its time to replace the compressor.
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Jul 13, 2017 21:22
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Michael Scott posted:I never realized this but apparently some trims of the Versa are so cheap that they come without a cabin air filter. Can confirm. Ours doesn't.
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Jul 13, 2017 23:24
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Cheap car question! I've been having really bad luck with my Fusion so I think it's time to part ways. A guy at work is selling his 08 2.5 Jetta for $2,000. It's got 139k on it, has the leather interior, automanual, sunroof, heated seats, the works. I drove it tonight and it drives well with no obvious issues. I'm really just looking for something I can drive on my weekend trips up to the mountains (2-400 miles for a weekend usually) without constantly being worried about major repairs. I keep seeing people who swear by the 2.5l Jettas, and others that say they're trash.I know at $2k I can't really be picky, but are these likely to be awful money pits or do I have a good chance of getting it to 180 or without selling my soul?
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Jul 14, 2017 03:52
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FWIW, a coworker has an 07 2.5 Jetta/manual trans with about 220k, and back in 08, I drove a friend's brand new 08 2.5/manual a few times. When I drove the 08, it seemed like it drove pretty nicely, just a little underpowered. Coworker's 07 has been shockingly reliable for a VW. It has some electrical issues (radiator fan isn't getting power, fuel gauge doesn't work, drivers door power lock doesn't work, ac works when it drat well wants to, and it eats ignition coils), but he puts the absolute bare minimum into it to keep it running. He's had it since about 100k and hasn't had any major repairs (I don't think he's even changed the air filter, for that matter, and it gets oil changes a couple of times a year despite driving 30k+ a year). I do know they require some kind of oil that isn't commonly on the shelf at, say, Walmart (5w40 with some kind of specific VW spec, supposedly there's some Mobil 1 oils that meet that spec as 0w40). The transmission recently started making some rather horrifying noises, but he hasn't exactly taken care of the car in general. He bitches about the mileage - he gets low to mid 20s. If your coworker has kept up with maintenance, I would think the mechanical parts have a decent bit of life left in them. If he's never changed the transmission fluid, I'd be a bit concerned. I've never owned a VW myself, so take this with a grain of salt. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Jul 14, 2017 |
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Jul 14, 2017 05:39
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That's not "some electrical issues", that's fully gremlin-laden madness.
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Jul 14, 2017 06:02
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