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Spent today pricing out parts to make the girlfriends late 90's corolla running properly. Most of it is pretty simple poo poo like a new radiator, driveshafts cause the cv joints are buggered and shocks for all 4 corners. Parts in Australia are pretty expensive for most things but even with all the parts they only come to $1000 for new parts. I haven't really done much in the way of car fixing but they're mostly simple fixes from what I've researched so it's worth giving it a go cause it isn't worth paying a mechanic to fix the bits that need doing.
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Jul 22, 2017 09:22
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 06:32 |
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And so it begins.
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Jul 22, 2017 11:12
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Did my first oil change since buying it. So nice having an oil filter next to the sump and a jack point at the front of the car that is easily reachable. Still made a mess but I had no idea where the oil was gonna go.  Also gave it a wash. 
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Jul 22, 2017 13:27
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Having a central front jacking point is one of those little things that makes working on a car so nice. Just jack in one spot and place the jack stands. No back and forth side to side uneven raising nonsense.
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Jul 22, 2017 14:19
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Not to the cars per se, but for them -- a friend built a tire storage rack for me. Now there're no more excuses for me not tidying up the rest of the garage, unfortunately. 
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Jul 22, 2017 16:15
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Popped the bell housing off so I can replace the clutch, with the engine supported by a hoist. I got so frustrated trying to get it out the hard way, so I took a break, which helped me clear my mind and figure out a better plan for today. Original plan was to get the bell housing out, remove the clutch, then put it back on. That was only because I can't shut my garage door with the truck inside of it with the hoist... I came up with the brilliant idea of using a C channel as a rear engine stand, which is working. So now I can clean the bell at my leisure, which is needed because every time I touch it my hands turn black. Now I can call Fort Wayne clutch and find out if my clutch is correct or not, and if not it'll be easy to pull and send off. Next step is to drop the fuel tanks so I can patch my flintstone floors. The actual next step is to get a bottle of gas and practice welding sheet metal, because I was poo poo at it with flux core. Not sure if I need the gas or the practice more. Items left; patch floor, reseal transmission, get seat upholstered, install new flooring, fix clutch issue, reassemble driveline and fuel tanks, fix coolant leak on intake manifold, modify air box mount. After that it'll be drivable again! Then I can tune the new fuel injection, which was the original project 
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Jul 23, 2017 00:58
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StormDrain posted:Popped the bell housing off so I can replace the clutch, with the engine supported by a hoist. I got so frustrated trying to get it out the hard way, so I took a break, which helped me clear my mind and figure out a better plan for today. Original plan was to get the bell housing out, remove the clutch, then put it back on. That was only because I can't shut my garage door with the truck inside of it with the hoist... I came up with the brilliant idea of using a C channel as a rear engine stand, which is working. So now I can clean the bell at my leisure, which is needed because every time I touch it my hands turn black. How come you never come to Cars & Coffee? We're up to three goons!
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Jul 23, 2017 02:23
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Rhyno posted:How come you never come to Cars & Coffee? We're up to three goons! In Denver? I've never heard of one here.
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Jul 23, 2017 04:46
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StormDrain posted:In Denver? I've never heard of one here. Lol, you said Fort Wayne Clutch which is where my buddy works. In Fort Wayne, Indiana.
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Jul 23, 2017 04:49
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Rhyno posted:Lol, you said Fort Wayne Clutch which is where my buddy works. I had a feeling since it was the only location I mentioned... They're the go-to place for old IH guys, which makes sense since the truck rolled off the line there 45 years ago.
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Jul 24, 2017 01:59
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The saga of my Crown Vic's squeaking belt drive continues. got the correct bearing in:  ... and it still squeaks. Because I'm an idiot, and only bought the front bearing. It's apparently the rear bearing on the alternator. Why did I not buy a kit with both? So, to recap: Replaced idler pulley. Replaced tensioner pulley bearing (because Gates are morons and list a part that does not fit - but uses the same bearing as OEM) Bought two bearings that don't fit the alternator, but do fit the idler and tensioner pulleys Replaced Front alternator bearing. Ordered rear alternator bearing and the tolerance bushing that it uses. thank god both of the pulleys and the alternator are easy to get to and remove/install. there is a special tool to remove the drive pulley on the alternator, because it is a clutched one-way "decoupler", but I already had that from thinking there was a bearing problem with the alternator previously (it was the water pump that time.) On the plus side, when I'm done, I will have two new and one apparently good used bearing for the idler and tensioner pulleys, one new idler pulley, one tensioner pulley without bearing that doesn't fit the car anyway, one used but apparently good front alternator bearing, and one new alternator bearing (in the kit I bought with the rear bearing, because it was like $7 more than the rear bearing by itself.)
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Jul 24, 2017 17:23
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I did some stuff... some stupid, some not. Let's begin: A few days ago, I lost a screw off of my trailer. I looked but didn't find it until the next morning...  In my tire. Surprisingly it held 35psi for like 3 days. I didn't even notice until I was walking out to my truck and just happened to see it.  Missing screw confirmed.  It unscrewed pretty easily, and luckily went straight in, not along the belts or anything.  warmed up the old plugs  gave that hole a good stuffing.  Order restored: screw returned to it's rightful place. Then I replaced my brake pads which didn't go so well. I couldn't find my brake bleeder, so I ran to Harbor Freight in my mom's car to get another. On the way back it began thunderstorming. My truck windows were down, and even though I was only gone a few minutes, when I opened the door I got a river of water pouring out. Everything was loving soaked. My tools, air compressor, everything. Then, it kept thunderstorming every time I dragged the tools out to continue working. Eventually I got the wheels off and the truck teetering dangerously on jackstands:   They look really close together but they're hooked in the LCA's joints nice and tight so  I tried to knock it off the stands for shits and giggles and couldn't.Old squeaky sadness:  New quiet hotness:  There was still plenty of meat on those bones but the squeaking was annoying and I had a shudder on any decel so I figured I might as well replace the pads while I'm trying to sort that out. Turns out the brake rotor wasn't seated all that great. Well that's my story.
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Jul 24, 2017 20:02
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The rotor itself probably has some nice hotspots in it, but given the cost of those bastards, gently caress replacing them until 100% necessary. Also, how do you like the wagner oex pads so far? Edit: Nvm, I may be thinking of a different year ford that has truely stupid brake prices. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 04:24 on Jul 25, 2017 |
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Jul 25, 2017 04:13
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Cop Porn Popper posted:The rotor itself probably has some nice hotspots in it, but given the cost of those bastards, gently caress replacing them until 100% necessary. Also, how do you like the wagner oex pads so far? I don't think I had a chance to create hot spots honestly. They started the shudder on the way home after I got my tires rotated and I didn't really drive it until I got the pads. The surface was pretty uniform and I measured the size and run out all the way around and that was also uniform. Those wagners are really nice actually. They're very quiet. They were harder to bed in than I anticipated and they smelled a little funny. They also feel a bit 'softer'. That is, they don't grab as harshly as the old pads did. They still stop great though. If you're interested they're from Rock Auto: WAGNER OEX1414 (Premium (OE Quality + Added Features)) OEX; Includes Installation Hardware Kit Info Front; Ceramic WAGNER OEX1012A (Premium (OE Quality + Added Features)) OEX; Includes Installation Hardware Kit Info Rear; Ceramic
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Jul 25, 2017 15:54
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I don't think I had a chance to create hot spots honestly. They started the shudder on the way home after I got my tires rotated and I didn't really drive it until I got the pads. If you want em semi-quick and have coupons, Pep Boys stock Wagner pads now too, so I'd check your local store to see if they're in stock.
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Jul 25, 2017 16:26
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Did baby's first brake job, by mistake. Did a read of my brake wear wrong, thought I was lower on pads than I was due to squeaking. Got the pads off, saw it wasn't low at all, and during reinstallation, dropped the pad on the cement and broke it. So lucky I had the new ones ready to go, I guess. Not so lucky that I forgot my friend has my torque wrench and lives 45 mins away.
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Jul 25, 2017 16:43
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Wasabi the J posted:So lucky I had the new ones ready to go, I guess. Not so lucky that I forgot my friend has my torque wrench and lives 45 mins away. You don't need a torque wrench for brakes. Use the German torque spec "Gutentite." If you aren't familiar with torquing bolts and don't have a good idea when bolts are overtorqued and are going to break, yeah it's a good idea however and never hurts to use. But most things on cars don't have critical torque values even though they all have specs.
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Jul 25, 2017 17:24
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Larrymer posted:You don't need a torque wrench for brakes. Use the German torque spec "Gutentite." I'm paranoid about my lugs, I always torque them properly. I know it's not super critical but it makes me feel a lot better knowing the job was done right. When I sold my friend my old exploder, it lived in the spare tools compartment next to the bottle jack that I also forgot about. I have actually gotten several bolts to go slack and back half a turn; granted most were cross threaded and it wasn't catastrophic, I am forever marked by the experiences.
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Jul 25, 2017 17:43
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Wasabi the J posted:I'm paranoid about my lugs, I always torque them properly. I know it's not super critical but it makes me feel a lot better knowing the job was done right. When I sold my friend my old exploder, it lived in the spare tools compartment next to the bottle jack that I also forgot about. Oh lugs for sure. I thought you meant specifically for the brake bolts.
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Jul 25, 2017 17:45
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I don't think I had a chance to create hot spots honestly. They started the shudder on the way home after I got my tires rotated and I didn't really drive it until I got the pads. More curious in general. Oreillys started stocking them a while back and I've only sold a few pairs so far. And while the people that chuck out the coin love them, they've been part of full brake jobs, oex pads and new bosch rotors. Have yet to hear from someone who used them when they were padslapping their vehicle.
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Jul 25, 2017 17:45
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Wasabi the J posted:Did baby's first brake job, by mistake. I mean... I feel like if you're gonna go through all the trouble of removing your pads, you might as well just replace them anyway? Cop Porn Popper posted:More curious in general. Oreillys started stocking them a while back and I've only sold a few pairs so far. And while the people that chuck out the coin love them, they've been part of full brake jobs, oex pads and new bosch rotors. Have yet to hear from someone who used them when they were padslapping their vehicle. I mean it's still <$100 (like $83 shipped actually) for all four corners so why the gently caress not? I wanted to try 'em out and so far I'm happy. Hell I might even go whole hog and get em again for when I do new rotors (in like 20k when I need tires).
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Jul 25, 2017 23:26
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I mean... I feel like if you're gonna go through all the trouble of removing your pads, you might as well just replace them anyway? I pretty much budget for always doing a full brake job and a new set of tires on whatever used car I buy. Like you said it's cheap enough vs the effort expended to get to the parts anyway so why not do it and be sure it's all good?
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Jul 26, 2017 00:13
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KakerMix posted:I pretty much budget for always doing a full brake job and a new set of tires on whatever used car I buy. Like you said it's cheap enough vs the effort expended to get to the parts anyway so why not do it and be sure it's all good? Same. I can't afford to buy a new car but these days I can afford buying all the parts for a job and just doing it right the first time. And tools, I'm not stuck trying to half rear end things (too much, usually) and spend a whole day sweating on one step because I don't have the right tools. That said, today I 3/4-assed a transmission cooler in my '01 Silverado. Coulda shoulda got a model specific adapter kit but where's the fun in that. A tubing cutter, a strip of aluminum and some screws and I'm in business. Hose routing isn't perfect, one laid up against a plastic headlight bracket with a sharp edge. I split a piece of scrap hose and pushed it onto the edge to prevent chafing. I hope this is good trucking.
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Jul 26, 2017 06:58
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Boys who love boys
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I mean... I feel like if you're gonna go through all the trouble of removing your pads, you might as well just replace them anyway? I kinda had that thought too but these things had a lot of pad left, they just made that dog whistle whine a LOT, which is what started this whole thing.
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Jul 26, 2017 19:25
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KakerMix posted:I pretty much budget for always doing a full brake job and a new set of tires on whatever used car I buy. Like you said it's cheap enough vs the effort expended to get to the parts anyway so why not do it and be sure it's all good? I actually bought the pads with the intention of doing a full brake job. Shudder happened, and the flat tire so it was a case of "while you're in there. I checked it out, everything looked fine, and I found out why it was shuddering. I was sick of the squeak and didn't feel like putting the old poo poo back on and waiting for rotors. I actually called the closest autozone and they didn't have ANY front rotors in stock so that pretty much made the decision for me.
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Jul 27, 2017 01:22
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Speaking of brakes I found out that my 'new' 83 Hijet has drums all around. I mean I haven't had the wheels off yet since I just got it late last night but it sure does look like a drum peaking from behind the wheel.
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Jul 27, 2017 02:08
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I put a little shine on the ol' deadlights. They weren't terrible to start but they were getting a little hazy looking. To me, nothing makes a car look old like cloudy hosed up headlights. free pic hosting sites Definitely pleased with the results. I used the Meguiars heavy duty polishing kit. I've used the 3M kit on other cars before but this one seemed to yield better results with less effort. I recommend it for sure.
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Jul 27, 2017 06:31
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This loving alternator. Got in the bearing kit for Ford 6G alternators. Apparently, I have a special snowflake of special snowflake cop car alternators.   And no usable markings:  Right. I'm taking this thing to the local alternator/starter shop to see if they have the right bearing, which is what I should have done in the first place, but it's a pain in the dick because they're hours are not conducive to people with jobs.
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Jul 27, 2017 15:50
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If it was me, I would have grabbed a complete alternator at the pick n pull for $25 or whatever way before I waited for bearings in the mail. Plus, that way you have a known working (but whiny) backup!
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Jul 27, 2017 19:55
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Darchangel posted:This loving alternator. For gently caress's sake just replace the goddamn alternator already. You have way more patience than I do.
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Jul 27, 2017 20:02
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:For gently caress's sake just replace the goddamn alternator already. Amen. How much have you spent on bearings vs. an alternator from Rock Auto?
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Jul 27, 2017 20:28
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Larrymer posted:Amen. How much have you spent on bearings vs. an alternator from Rock Auto? That's a $300-400 200-amp cop-spec alternator, chumps. I could convert to civvie-spec 100-amp or whatever it is, which also requires a bracket change (the support bracket on top). I will also probably look at the wrecking yard when I'm next there - lots of cop cars, maybe one has an alternator - but that will probably be, oh, November. It's too hot out there now. But yeah, I am dumb and stubborn. Edit: friend of mine who's currently working part time picked up the rotor with the bearing and took it to the shop today. $12.50 for the bearing and press work. I am definitely stubborn and dumb. Also, I have lots of bearings now. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Jul 27, 2017 |
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Jul 27, 2017 21:18
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Ahahahahaha! It still squeaks! ... I figured it out, though. The damned tensioner has a little play in it's pivot, and is tilting just enough toward the timing chain cover to let the belt slip out of line just enough to touch the aluminum, causing a little chirp every time it touches. I shimmed the mounting of the tensioner with some 20 ga sheet metal and it's all fine now. And I have a butt-load of new and known good bearings for when it *does* go wrong, and I spent less tha $100 "learning". I know the belt drive in and out, too, now, I guess.
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Jul 28, 2017 03:42
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I found my local Menards had full synthetic oil on sale with a mail in rebate for $2.88 a quart. Ran over, picked up 7 quarts and a filter. Changed the oil and filter, and put a new ac compressor on the 300C. The clutch had gone bad in it. Ran it over to my friend's body shop, and he charged the ac for me. Cold air and fresh oil. Feels good.
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Jul 28, 2017 05:26
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Night Danger Moose posted:If you want em semi-quick and have coupons, Pep Boys stock Wagner pads now too, so I'd check your local store to see if they're in stock. Advance Auto does as well. They're a bit proud of them, but Advance Auto coupons are dead simple to find (and you can order online for same day in-store pickup). They pretty much always have a 15-20% off coupon around, and you can often find better ones (or some that'll stack) on retailmenot.
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Jul 28, 2017 07:23
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Darchangel posted:Ahahahahaha! It still squeaks! wait... all of this was just because it squeaked and you didn't think to check the tensioner first? oh. my. god. you poor thing.
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Jul 28, 2017 20:15
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Hahahahaha
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Jul 28, 2017 20:45
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:wait... all of this was just because it squeaked and you didn't think to check the tensioner first? I would make fun of this but his tale of woe is Exactly What I Would Do
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Jul 28, 2017 20:49
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 I mean just look at my brake story. Also I had to clear a cryptic CEL that I think was caused my my Bluetooth reader getting jostled. I'm loving praying, but I'm gonna go ahead and move up my next service interval a little.
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Jul 28, 2017 20:57
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Found out why I have to press so much harder on the brake pedal to get the van to stop
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Jul 29, 2017 03:16
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