joat mon posted:

Maybe they were unbolting it to do a body lift and used a little to much English on a stuck bolt?

Root Bear posted:

quote:

The person that took this picture contacted us with the real story. Customer came in for an insurance frame swap. Mechanic threw a few body mount bolts in it loosely and lifted it up to put the rest in and tighten. The frame dropped out from under it and drug the body down with it nearly crushing two employees. Nobody got hurt and the customer and dealership owner took a walk through the lot in search of a new Tahoe.

Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:

So how much would be salvageable from that? I assume the frame is Fukt, body itself is probably tweaked to hell (not to mention the wiring damage unless everything was already unplugged), but the running gear, interior bits, and glass are probably good, right?

DropShadow posted:

From another place I saw this posted:

Cojawfee posted:

Based on my experience putting things together, if he only put in a few bolts and put the whole thing under load, how did he expect to get the rest of the bolts in?

Godholio posted:

Yeah this is my question. I've done a couple dozen body mount replacements over the years, and this doesn't make sense to me.

Enourmo posted:

Dealer mechanics... incompetent?

Deteriorata posted:

Yeah, that explanation seems rather suspect. More likely is that they were trying to use the hoist to lift the body itself off the frame and screwed it up.

Cars do occasionally fall off lifts, usually for dumb, easily mitigated reasons. It's best just to admit it and move on rather than make up a lame cover story.

Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:

Jesus gently caress. OSHA is gonna have a loving field day with that one (assuming someone has the balls to report that).

So how much would be salvageable from that? I assume the frame is Fukt, body itself is probably tweaked to hell (not to mention the wiring damage unless everything was already unplugged), but the running gear, interior bits, and glass are probably good, right?

Vanagoon posted:

This seems like a good time to post Audi UFO brakes again:







https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4g2s_xX3nmw&t=53s

Seat Safety Switch posted:

Finally started tearing apart the turbo Honda engine that I bought from some stoners a few years ago. Should probably start a Honda thread, but I think you'll all agree it belongs here.

The engine is a D16Y7 with a D16Y8 head on it, to give it the ancient magic of VTEC. When I bought it, it came with a good-sized storage bin worth of other turbo poo poo and have gradually taken parts off of it as it's been sitting in a tire on Slung's floor. As you can see, there's a lot to replace and change before I can put it back together and put it into my Civic.

The guys who sold it to me swore up and down that it has new Vitara pistons in it (which seems plausible) along with Eagle rods and some other stuff. Basically your average early-2000s "built D-series," though technology has moved on quite a bit since then and I understand now that the Vitara pistons are no longer the path to big power due to their low compression ratio. It has a lot of ARP fasteners which tells me whoever built it had a lot of money. Casting flash and a bunch of other little annoyances aren't really cleaned off this block, which tells me they weren't particularly detail-oriented.

Whoever built the engine dumped it on these guys because a ball joint failed on the car it was in and he decided to get rid of the entire car in one shot. It was running a Greddy e-Manage piggyback on a P2P OBD2 ECU which seems vaguely ridiculous to me. It came with a transmission of "some kind" that had a broken shift linkage attached.

There's a lot of nickle-and-dime poo poo to fix on this motor; a lot of sensors are broken. I also owe this engine a bunch of parts because when something like a reverse sensor or a vacuum plug has broken on my daily-driver D15B7 Civic I've yanked it off this engine.

Off comes the oil pan. We discovered the legend of Roddy's Copper. Big flakes



The turbo that came with it (a "Garrett M24" according to the housing, which means nothing) has some mild axial shaft play. There's no lateral shaft play, though I am questioning the integrity of the water seals inside the turbo. I was going to dismantle the turbo next and measure the wheels until I started looking into this motor. I'm guessing this is actually a terrible Chinacharger of some kind because there's no serial number on the housing that I could use to ask Garrett what this thing actually is.

Now is probably the right time to change all those annoying hoses on the underside of the intake manifold, huh?



Almost impossible to take a picture of this, but the cam was wiped in a few spots.



The #3 rockers were also pretty loose side-to-side, not sure if that's normal or not. I'll try rotating the engine to see if that goes away under load or if I need a new head.

The most worrying part is that when we flipped it back over and pulled the valve cover, we found a bonus head nut just lying around. I'm guessing whoever 'built' this engine lost a nut inside here and then just grabbed another one off the shelf instead of looking for it. Good thing this didn't clog an oil passage or destroy a valve spring or something.



I think for starters, I'm going to bolt this thing back up and try to do a compression test on the stand. Never done that on an engine this big before.

Not sure what the plan is here. If the rockers are hosed I'm probably going to need to pull another junkyard VTEC head and then see if I can make one good head out of the two of them.

If that copper is what I think it is, I will probably have to order a new set of rod bearings and rebuild the engine. If there's a dead hole on the compression test, though, things change.

Another option would be to write off this engine, grab an entire junkyard VTEC engine and build it right in the first place, possibly reusing some chunks from this one (rods?). Given how much rework there is in front of me, it might well be faster/better to do this, and I'd probably eclipse the "250whp" they claimed it made. Nowadays it seems like doing low 400s at the wheel is the cover price for Budget Honda Turbo Club.

A fourth, more exciting option, is to slap this thing back together with a non-cracked manifold, get a Megasquirt running it, throw it into the car and blow it to pieces.

Fo3 posted:

Nah, with BMW it's a driveshaft with seals.

Fo3 posted:

ok, I read something about the x5 that mentioned seals a while back, but I read it wrong. Probably diff seals.

Hugh G. Rectum posted:

The Locator posted:

What's the rest of the text? "the tractor-trailer did not stop after..."

quote:

losing the wheels, but continued Eastbound. Thankfully, the trooper was not injured.
If you were in this area, and have any information, or have seen a tractor that is missing two wheels, please contact Trooper Scott Shea at the State Police Sturbridge Barracks at 508-347-3352.
Please share.

The Locator posted:

What's the rest of the text? "the tractor-trailer did not stop after..."

Metal Geir Skogul posted:

My first ever freeway EMS call was one of those, but it bounced over the median and hit the cruiser head on. Cop was fine, but it's been four years and I wonder if the truck driver is still in jail.

Colostomy Bag posted:

Actually trying to figure out the rod coming out of it. Is that some sort of panhard bar for trailers?

Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:

Isn't that a drive axle?

Kinda wondering how the truck kept moving after losing that, unless it had lockers.

Cojawfee posted:

Why did the driver go to jail? For running from the scene or something?

Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:

Isn't that a drive axle?

Kinda wondering how the truck kept moving after losing that, unless it had lockers.

Darchangel posted:

Four pairs of drive wheels on two axles - the two drive axles are directly coupled to the each other and the driveshaft, so even with no lockers in the axle that lost the pair, the other drive axle held the rear end up and kept it going.

edit: if it's a rear tandem drive tractor, which seems likely given that it kept going.

Cojawfee posted:

Why did the driver go to jail? For running from the scene or something?

Darchangel posted:

Four pairs of drive wheels on two axles - the two drive axles are directly coupled to the each other and the driveshaft, so even with no lockers in the axle that lost the pair, the other drive axle held the rear end up and kept it going.

edit: if it's a rear tandem drive tractor, which seems likely given that it kept going.

Powershift posted:

Or he left the diff lock on which could have caused the failure in the first place.