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Cojawfee posted:I don't see how someone who just drives for a company would know that their axle was about to snap and the wheels were going to come off. When a wheel bearing is nearing failure it has quite a bit of play, and a wheel seal that is riding off center, off square and bouncing around all over the place is going to leak like a motherfucker (especially rawhide seals, cause those are still popular in the trucking industry if you'd believe it).
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Aug 4, 2017 02:57
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Human Grand Prix posted:How about neither? If you want affordable plus decent quality the big high-end manufacturers have affiliate brands to meet your needs. However there are some specialist ones where I'm more limited, and the only practical option is going to be remoulds - Panda sized AT patterns, for example. If you're buying a remould to just get the cheapest possible "regular" tyre, I think it's a false economy, but they do fill a good niche of allowing you to get stuff that the normal manufacturers aren't addressing because the market's just not there to justify it for them. Basically sometimes they DON'T have branded stuff to fit your needs, and when that happens, I'll have no qualms about looking at a local remoulder to sort me out. My disagreement is with a blanket "all remould made everywhere by everyone are crap" approach.
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Aug 4, 2017 07:09
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If recaps/remoulds really were as terribly dangerous and unfit for service as people make out, insurers wouldn't touch them. If their service lives and economy was as poor as people say, trucking companies wouldn't run them. As it stands, about 30%* of truck and bus tyres sold in the EU5 are remanufactured; EU5 picked because (a) they have data and (b) they are developed Western nations with a high standards of road safety and regular vehicle inspections. If you're wondering, their use is in decline because the labour cost of remanufacturing in the EU is now higher than the cost of a whole new tyre shipped from a NIC. The reason the people we associate with don't want them is because they misbehave while doing burnouts. *: 2015 numbers, in decline.
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Aug 4, 2017 08:57
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Serious rethreading companies check the tyre for a number of things before reuse. Age, do a belt x-ray and stuff. Technology-wise there has also been a lot of changes, older rethreads were really subpar at times, new rethreads from serious companies are a lot better than many poo poo tier new tyres. It also saves about 70% in material compared to making a whole new tyre, so it's enviromentally better as well.
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Aug 4, 2017 10:44
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IPCRESS posted:If recaps/remoulds really were as terribly dangerous and unfit for service as people make out, insurers wouldn't touch them. If their service lives and economy was as poor as people say, trucking companies wouldn't run them. A) Insurers in many countries absolutly will deny coverage if you run retreads. I live in one. Let alone retreads are just flat out illegal on a passenger car. b) Trucking companies have long been proven to not give a gently caress about safety and only do the cheapest poo poo possible to keep the trucks on the road quote:The reason the people we associate with don't want them is because they misbehave while doing burnouts. Retreads have no grip, smoke like crazy and perform a huge bang when they fail. They are great for a burnout
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Aug 4, 2017 10:51
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:A) Insurers in many countries absolutly will deny coverage if you run retreads. I live in one. Let alone retreads are just flat out illegal on a passenger car.
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Aug 4, 2017 11:39
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They can't? Most retreads are limited to 120-140km/hr. Most new tyres (even terrible ones) are rated 180-240km/hr. Pretty sure they don't have the same load rating either. They were more common 30 years ago or how ever long back when cars were woeful, under powered and slow anyway. E: like every 4cyl had 60hp, or 6 cyl with 100hp. These days dumb people buy cheap Chinese tyres instead. That wasn't an option 30 years ago, and no tyre fitter recommends them for passenger cars anymore as they have 160+kw and likely to go over 130km/hr when overtaking. 2e: More likely to get sold s/h tyres than retreads if you really need a $50 tyre Fo3 fucked around with this message at 12:43 on Aug 4, 2017 |
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Aug 4, 2017 12:30
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Retreads have no grip, smoke like crazy and perform a huge bang when they fail. They are great for a burnout This makes no sense whatsoever? The rubber compound and tread pattern of the tyre determines the grip, not if it's a retread or not? EDIT: Fo3 posted:They can't? Most retreads are limited to 120-140km/hr. Most new tyres (even terrible ones) are rated 180-240km/hr. Pretty sure they don't have the same load rating either. They do and can. I can as of right now buy a retread, made here in Sweden, that is tested and certified V (240kmh). Nidhg00670000 fucked around with this message at 13:00 on Aug 4, 2017 |
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Aug 4, 2017 12:56
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Nidhg00670000 posted:They do and can. I can as of right now buy a retread, made here in Sweden, that is tested and certified V (240kmh).
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Aug 4, 2017 13:06
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InitialDave posted:But what are the regulations on retreads in Australia? Do they have to meet the same requirements as a new tyre? NSW: http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/documents/roads/safety-rules/standards/vsi-09-rev4.pdf posted:NSW legislation requires that all retreaded tyres fitted to vehicles must comply with the provisions of Australian NT: http://www.austlii.edu.au/au/legis/nt/consol_reg/avsr324/s53.html - Legal in NT on passenger cars, trucks, trailers, omnibuses, provided that they meet the relevant Australian Standard for retreaded tyres. Vic: http://www.legislation.vic.gov.au/D...257782001CE282/$FILE/09-118sr004.pdf - Section 53, retreads are legal on passenger cars, trucks, trailers and omnibuses, provided that they meet the relevant Australian standards. Qld: https://www.legislation.qld.gov.au/LEGISLTN/REPEALED/T/TrantOpRUVSSR99_04E_090101.pdf - Section 42, retreads are legal on passenger cars, trucks, trailers and omnibuses, provided blah blah blah these are all national standards. ACT: Legal. Trust me. I've never towed my boat trailer in SA, WA or TAS but I'm pretty sure that I'd find that retreads are legal there too. e: And my insurance covers me when I'm towing on retreaded tyres. e2: Retreads in AU are limited by to 140km/h for passenger car radials by the above mentioned standard. IPCRESS fucked around with this message at 13:23 on Aug 4, 2017 |
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Aug 4, 2017 13:13
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MomJeans420 posted:Someone goes to jiffy lube, jiffy lube somehow strips the drain plug and fixes it with whatever the gently caress this is, next time they get their oil changed by someone who's not a complete retard they notice it. It reminds me of that poo poo people use to ghetto patch holes in walls. This is an anti-tampering measure called Warranty Seal. You can also put a line of it between the oil filter and its flange. Oil-outs are a huge expense for shops. The drain plug is sealed with this to make sure someone didn't empty the oil themselves in an attempt to get a brand new engine on the shop's dime. The shop's insurance adjuster will look to make sure the seal is intact before approving a claim on an oil-out. But you don't need to glob the poo poo out of it like this guy did!
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Aug 4, 2017 15:40
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0toShifty posted:This is an anti-tampering measure called Warranty Seal. You can also put a line of it between the oil filter and its flange. WTF??? I mean, it makes sense, but I've never heard of that before.
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Aug 4, 2017 17:15
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Is that like a painted torque-mark but with glue?
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Aug 4, 2017 17:18
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That seems like a really bad defense because the issues most people have with quick lube joints is the drain plug falling out a mile away from the shop. How is the adjuster gonna interpret that?
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Aug 4, 2017 18:01
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On the retread issue i worked in the same lot as a shop for a couple years and all this talk of xrays and quality is absurd. Ive seen the sausage being made and its made by methheads in a garage where all the truckers know they get a deal. In the uk it may be different but its a circus here. Maybe big shipping companies use some big facility or something with standards and sober people, but ive never seen one of those. Every other corner in a warehouse district seems to be a retread shop straight out of a mad max film.
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Aug 4, 2017 18:48
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It's probably more to make the mechanic double-check - because who's going to put that paint on and not think about the plug being tight? (or even just being there) I don't think many places do this. Jiffy Lube and Firestone/Tires Plus are the only ones I've seen do it.
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Aug 4, 2017 18:57
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DogonCrook posted:In the uk it may be different The "scrub it down a bit and glue a ready made tread on the top again" kind of deal isn't something I'd touch myself.
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Aug 4, 2017 19:50
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The Locator posted:Is this a poop-bot? THE TURDMINATOR
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Aug 4, 2017 20:02
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0toShifty posted:It's probably more to make the mechanic double-check - because who's going to put that paint on and not think about the plug being tight? (or even just being there) At my sears we did it. Naturally it was blue because BRANDING
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Aug 5, 2017 02:23
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DogonCrook posted:On the retread issue i worked in the same lot as a shop for a couple years and all this talk of xrays and quality is absurd. Ive seen the sausage being made and its made by methheads in a garage where all the truckers know they get a deal. In the uk it may be different but its a circus here. Maybe big shipping companies use some big facility or something with standards and sober people, but ive never seen one of those. Every other corner in a warehouse district seems to be a retread shop straight out of a mad max film. American retreads are atrocious, if a unit needs a tire south of the border we get a virgin or failing that a used tire. If a cap is all that's available we run it home and then pull it. Contrast that to Canadian retreads, which (at least from reputable guys like Bandag, MRT and Marangoni) are every bit as reliable as a virgin. The only virgins we stock at home are steers and the odd set we buy when we're low on casings, everything else is caps and I don't see it as cutting corners one bit.
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Aug 5, 2017 03:25
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Shrugs Not Drugs posted:American retreads are atrocious, if a unit needs a tire south of the border we get a virgin or failing that a used tire. If a cap is all that's available we run it home and then pull it. Contrast that to Canadian retreads, which (at least from reputable guys like Bandag, MRT and Marangoni) are every bit as reliable as a virgin. The only virgins we stock at home are steers and the odd set we buy when we're low on casings, everything else is caps and I don't see it as cutting corners one bit. Which gets complicated because you don't send trucks with new tires down to Mexico, because it will come back with extremely used or extremely used retread tires all on its own.
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Aug 5, 2017 15:58
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You retread tyres for a living?
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Aug 5, 2017 16:31
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People who use 8mm fasteners for exhaust manifolds ought to be made to answer for their crimes. At least it's out I guess:  This bolt was busted off, then hamfucked by the idiot PO. Couldn't even tell where the bolt was in the mess of corrosion and gunk. Used alum solution to dissolve the steel about 1/8" down and liberate the busted off tip of a ~3/32" drill they had gotten stuck in it after drilling at an angle and into the head threads a little. Great work guys! Then used my air drill to make a flat spot and drill straight down the middle. Eventually I realized I'd accidentally spun the remains of the bolt so I got my ezout...   Amazingly it worked. I only intended to drill a hole down the middle so the alum solution would do its work faster. Trip report: Alum works but it's sloooooooooooow drilling bolts out works, but fraught with danger of damaging the threads unless you get lucky or are good Building up weld worked on the one on the other side, but sucked to do. I think next time I will try welding, if it fails grind it back down and air drill as much of the core of the bolt as I can, then dissolve the rest with alum.
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Aug 5, 2017 16:54
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Haha, I saw your snapchat from about a week ago. Much patience is needed, it seems!
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Aug 5, 2017 20:55
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One of the machinists I watch on youtube is a huge fan of LH drillbits, but you really need a drill press or mill to use them properly
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Aug 6, 2017 06:14
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Ferremit posted:One of the machinists I watch on youtube is a huge fan of LH drillbits, but you really need a drill press or mill to use them properly I've used LH drill bits with some success, just with a handheld drill. I think, as with extractors (I've also had some luck with them), YMMV / it's a bad day when you have to resort to them.
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Aug 6, 2017 14:52
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I love the brightly colored Play-Doh, there. Does this cont as a mechanical failure? I was at the wrecking yard getting some parts when it happened:   First the left sole started flapping at the toe, so I taped it up (only had electrical tape with me), the the right toe stated flapping. Taped it up. *Then, the entire rest of the left sole came loose, which is much more problematic to tape up. As I walked after that, the damned sole started shifting forward from the pull of the heel tape. Fortunately, we were almost done,and the other sole didn't fall off. I have two other pairs of steel-toes, so those went straight into the trash when I got home. I only wore them because I hadn't in a while. This is the thanks I get... I really hate glued-on soles. This always happens eventually.
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Aug 7, 2017 17:54
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Colostomy Bag posted:A few moons ago going along 70 mph on an interstate and a SUV coming at the opposite direction lost its tire. Thing flew across the 20 ft wide median and over my vehicle. One of those "Final Destination" moments where you think if I left the house a few seconds sooner I'd be toast.
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Aug 7, 2017 18:12
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Darchangel posted:I love the brightly colored Play-Doh, there. loving remoulds.
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Aug 7, 2017 18:34
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Darchangel posted:I love the brightly colored Play-Doh, there. When I was in basic training, the sole of one guy's boot completely fell off so he had one normal boot and one perfectly smooth boot.
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Aug 7, 2017 19:14
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Darchangel posted:I love the brightly colored Play-Doh, there. I had the same thing happen to me a week ago in the middle of a backcountry backpacking trip. I repaired them with zip ties and duct tape. Never buy boots from former Axis powers.
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Aug 7, 2017 19:36
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cakesmith handyman posted:loving remoulds. Hah! Virgins, as far as I know, but who knows? Cojawfee posted:When I was in basic training, the sole of one guy's boot completely fell off so he had one normal boot and one perfectly smooth boot. These things would have been down to the lower casing folded in about an inch, and the innersole/foot cushion, so probably wouldn't have gone far... Platystemon posted:I had the same thing happen to me a week ago in the middle of a backcountry backpacking trip. These were "Brahma" brand, I think (that might be one of my other pair)? Didn't even look, but probably made in China. Low-tops, and I think they were from a thrift store, anyway. I'll just wear my actual boots (Mack-branded). One less pair of shoes cluttering the closet.
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Aug 7, 2017 19:52
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You can re-attach soles with barge cement, works surprisingly well if you catch it early! It's a lot harder once you've started to get crud under the sole. It's getting harder and harder to find shoes made with something other than polyurethane soles, which start breaking down in around a month no matter how little wear you put on them.
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Aug 7, 2017 20:13
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Darchangel posted:These were "Brahma" brand, I think (that might be one of my other pair)? Didn't even look, but probably made in China. Low-tops, and I think they were from a thrift store, anyway. I'll just wear my actual boots (Mack-branded). One less pair of shoes cluttering the closet. Yeah, that brand is sold in Wal-Mart.
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Aug 7, 2017 20:51
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I had the entire heel and sole fall off my leather shoes at a trade conference and I was so tired, I didn't even notice until I was in the cafe area and noticed an odd clicking sound when I stepped with my left foot. I have no idea how long I was walking lopsided for.
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Aug 7, 2017 21:33
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Alereon posted:You can re-attach soles with barge cement, works surprisingly well if you catch it early! It's a lot harder once you've started to get crud under the sole. It's getting harder and harder to find shoes made with something other than polyurethane soles, which start breaking down in around a month no matter how little wear you put on them. There are a few products specifically for this purpose - I find "Shoe Goo" to work fairly well - but this pair of shoes just pissed me off, and weren't worth it. If it had been, say, just the toe, I'd have given it a go, probably. I've hobbled a lot of shoes along, typically for purposes where I don't want to mess up nicer shoes, by glooping them back together until there was nothing to glue to any more. wallaka posted:Yeah, that brand is sold in Wal-Mart. That's probably them. Cheeeeeeaaaaap.
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Aug 7, 2017 21:45
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Shoe Goo can waterproof things but doesn’t have great mechanical strength. Barge Cement was reformulated in the last few years and the new stuff just isn’t as good. I think I’ll try polyurethane construction adhesive this time.
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Aug 8, 2017 05:35
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Alereon posted:You can re-attach soles with barge cement, works surprisingly well if you catch it early! It's a lot harder once you've started to get crud under the sole. It's getting harder and harder to find shoes made with something other than polyurethane soles, which start breaking down in around a month no matter how little wear you put on them. I take students up to some really rugged terrain every June and recommend that they get their boots from somewhere that sells to construction workers, and to break them in properly beforehand. Every year someone has a brand new pair of North Face hiking boots, and every year that person and I take a trip into town after about the 6th day to get them a new pair of boots, because every year that person's boots fall apart. Platystemon posted:I think I’ll try polyurethane construction adhesive this time. This poo poo will basically stick anything to anything in the construction world. I haven't needed to use it on a pair of boots but I can't imagine it having any problems.
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Aug 8, 2017 05:47
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The only time I actually fixed a boot for any real length of time was when I took the insole out and then attached the sole to the boot with copper wire. I think I got about ~5 months more out of the boot that way.
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Aug 8, 2017 12:03
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Ive glued boots together with sikaflex to get me through at work before when we were at the end of the financial year and broke. Again. My gumboots have a waterproof dressing stuck over the hole where some dumb oval office stabbed them with something putting poo poo back on the shelf. 2 week old boots, dirty great hole in them.
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Aug 8, 2017 13:24
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