|
BlackMK4 posted:Have you worn any motorcycle helmets for any length of time? What were they? Nope, just racing helmets, sorry.
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2017 20:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 14:52 |
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:I was thinking about that since I love my Arai, especially since they have literally saved my life twice. I don't think it's a extra shell, it's just that they've been tested by Snell (and usually the FIA) and that process costs money.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2017 20:14
|
|
|
I wouldn't continue to wear a motorcycle helmet in a car when I could buy a properly rated one. You'll have to anyway if you progress past the HPDE/auto-x level. Motorcycle helmets aren't designed for cage/windshield hits, nor certified fire retardant materials/construction. Oddly enough, there are some dual-certification helmets, they just aren't common or particularly nice. My 2005 AR-10 was great for fiveheads, and the newer ones aren't any worse.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2017 20:25
|
|
|
Do you guys find balaclavas help keep helmet padding cleaner/fresher? They're not required for LeMons, but I would get one just to keep my helmet nicer.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2017 21:23
|
|
|
Yes, and you should wear one anyway. I witnessed a guy wind up with pretty severe burns on his neck and face without one.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2017 21:30
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:Do you guys find balaclavas help keep helmet padding cleaner/fresher? Yes, and buy more than one if you're going to be driving more than one stint. Having to put a damp balaclava back on is just one more thing to complain about in the car.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2017 22:54
|
|
|
I wear my balaclava but I cannot have it over my nose, glasses fog up like crazy no matter what I do. Should have went for a forced air helmet I think. It's also ridiculously hard to get the open eyeport to even stay on my nose while putting my helmet on. On the helmet front, I went from an HJC CL-16 (S) to AR-10 II (S). I think the AR-10 padding is a bit tighter but both helmets fit fine. I'm also glad I got a full containment seat because I already made use of it. Had a lapse of judgement and went for a bumpy rear end ride in the grass. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPlCcrtGLyE Nothing a redneck frame machine couldn't fix though.   
Crustashio fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Aug 1, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2017 01:28
|
|
|
DJ Commie posted:I wouldn't continue to wear a motorcycle helmet in a car when I could buy a properly rated one. You'll have to anyway if you progress past the HPDE/auto-x level. Motorcycle helmets aren't designed for cage/windshield hits, nor certified fire retardant materials/construction. Oddly enough, there are some dual-certification helmets, they just aren't common or particularly nice. Alright, gently caress, you're right. I ordered the HJC.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2017 04:19
|
|
|
Blaise posted:Anybody have any actual, real-life experience with tire life on RE-71s? I know they are THE fast tire out now. I haven't owned RE71R to say much about the wear characteristic but I can vouch for the performance. I was invited to drive a friend's NC miata on JIC coils and sticker 245 RE71Rs. Phenomenal tire for autocross. Grip is readily available. The tire feels like an rcomp but it just so happens to have grooves in it. If you're competing, it's definitely the tire to buy. My RS3 version 2s on my personal car have lasted forever. They've been through 4 autocrosses, 5 HPDEs, and approximately 6000 street miles and I can barely tell they've been used. I might get a second year of use on these pretty easily. I hear the RS4 is similar. Grip level and response isn't as high as RE71 but they hold their own.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2017 22:31
|
|
|
I'm going to this this weekend in Wisconsin. Flying from Boston and camping and poo poo at it! I'm pumped. No clue what to expect but can't wait http://www.roadamerica.com/buy-tickets/continental-tire-road-race-showcase.html
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2017 23:14
|
|
|
5 RING SHRIMP posted:No clue what to expect Fun, and cheese. RA is awesome.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2017 14:07
|
|
|
Anyone else running/crewing the Chumpcar 24h @ VIR?
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2017 02:41
|
|
|
I was looking at something to keep me snug for autocross and occasional track use and came across the CG Lock. Since it's a daily driver I can't really install a harness and rollcage and this seems like a good option. Anyone use the CG Lock before or have opinions on them?
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2017 15:38
|
|
|
I have one. I only once used it for autocross and have used it a handful of times offroad. It's nice if you can get it to work, but it is fiddly as hell to set up.
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2017 15:47
|
|
|
net work error posted:I was looking at something to keep me snug for autocross and occasional track use and came across the CG Lock. Since it's a daily driver I can't really install a harness and rollcage and this seems like a good option. Anyone use the CG Lock before or have opinions on them? They work well, but will chew the gently caress out of your b pillar where the belt retracts. If you have a weak seatbelt retract, expect to have to help it along.
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2017 16:59
|
|
|
What I usually do is slide my seat back a notch, pull my seat belt so the inertia lock locks up with just enough room to buckle it, buckle it and then slide back forward with the seat. Do it right and it'll be so snug you'll have a bruise on your shoulder by the end of the day. First time I tried it in an autocross it knocked a second and a half off my time. On a road course it's indispensable. Now that I think of it I'm not sure if that's a safe way to operate. Does the belt need that little bit of slack before it locks up? Well... I dunno it seems like it'd be even safer like that--my body wouldn't be able to pick up velocity before snapping it tight.
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2017 17:28
|
|
|
net work error posted:I was looking at something to keep me snug for autocross and occasional track use and came across the CG Lock. Since it's a daily driver I can't really install a harness and rollcage and this seems like a good option. Anyone use the CG Lock before or have opinions on them? I have a pair in my car and I like it a lot. I just leave them on all the time. I haven't noticed them doing any damage. Cinch it real tight when you're headed on track.
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2017 18:24
|
|
|
Dave Inc. posted:What I usually do is slide my seat back a notch, pull my seat belt so the inertia lock locks up with just enough room to buckle it, buckle it and then slide back forward with the seat. Do it right and it'll be so snug you'll have a bruise on your shoulder by the end of the day. First time I tried it in an autocross it knocked a second and a half off my time. On a road course it's indispensable. Look at this guy who doesn't already sit at the extreme rear end of the seat rails.  nm posted:They work well, but will chew the gently caress out of your b pillar where the belt retracts. The retractors on both cars I've used this in were horribly weak so I only leave the drat thing installed when I actually am going to use it. I've been half tempted to drill the plastic of the seatbelt latch to let the screws go through it instead of just pinching it, but that seems like it might be a few steps too far into "Bad Idea".
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2017 18:59
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Look at this guy who doesn't already sit at the extreme rear end of the seat rails. Recline seat a lot, lock the belt, bring seat back up. Not quite as good but it'll do. Also, I'm 6' with a 32" inseam and even in my tiny rear end '82 911 I can't reach the pedals if I'm all the way back. How freaking tall are you?
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2017 20:11
|
|
|
6'4. My default "step 1" of adjusting any car I get into has always been seat as far back as it will go. I haven't been in a 911 since I was a kid, and never in the driver's seat. Clearly I'd be more comfortable in one of those 
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2017 20:29
|
|
|
Larrymer posted:Fun, and cheese. RA is awesome. Larrymer posted:Fun, and cheese. RA is awesome. You weren't kidding. I'll be back next year. First time at any racing event, and first time loving around with DSLR. I can't believe how loud the cars were. Road America is awesome.    Some more pictures here: https://imgur.com/gallery/XxapC 7 RING SHRIMP fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Aug 7, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2017 16:08
|
|
|
Road America is awesome - been a long time since I've been there for a pro race though. Well attended?
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2017 16:09
|
|
|
mekilljoydammit posted:Road America is awesome - been a long time since I've been there for a pro race though. Well attended? I don't have anything to compare it to since it was my first pro race but I'd say so. The camp grounds were full as far as I could tell. Maybe it's because of the track set up but none of the places we watched the race seemed full, which was nice. Some spots had a lot of people and others barely had any. I still can't get over how loud the two Porsches were. Just screaming. Coming from Mass I was pumped to see the Turner Motorsports BMW win its class.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2017 16:21
|
|
|
5 RING SHRIMP posted:I don't have anything to compare it to since it was my first pro race but I'd say so. The camp grounds were full as far as I could tell. Maybe it's because of the track set up but none of the places we watched the race seemed full, which was nice. Some spots had a lot of people and others barely had any. I still can't get over how loud the two Porsches were. Just screaming. Coming from Mass I was pumped to see the Turner Motorsports BMW win its class. When there were still RX8s racing, they replaced the Renesis (lol) with the 3 rotor and it was mind piercingly loud.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2017 21:38
|
|
|
Phone posted:When there were still RX8s racing, they replaced the Renesis (lol) with the 3 rotor and it was mind piercingly loud. In fairness, the Grand Am GT class RX-8s replaced everything else of the car with stuff more suitable too. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2017 21:42
|
|
|
Going to run Saturday afternoon at Musselman Honda Circuit in Tucson to get some seat time in. https://www.facebook.com/events/219633701893361/
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2017 00:46
|
|
|
When restoring a car is there anything I should plan for in advance if I want to occasionally run it on a track from time to time where for the most part it's a weekend driver?
|
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2017 02:12
|
|
|
That its cooling system is in good shape. And maybe better brakes depending on how old it is.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2017 02:49
|
|
|
Have any of you guys broken an engine in on a track only car during a race weekend? I got my engine built by Loying's in Portland, OR for my Spec Miata. I got it installed this weekend, ran Rotella T4 while it warmed up to bleed coolant and set the timing. I changed the oil after that with Rotella T4 again but can't drive the car on the street. I'm figuring my only option is to take it easy on Saturday and change the oil during lunch and at the end of the day. I'm hoping I can run it at full race pace on Sunday.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2017 02:56
|
|
kimbo305 posted:That its cooling system is in good shape. And maybe better brakes depending on how old it is. Brakes aren't likely a problem, it will probably have 14 inch Baer 6 pistons on all four corners. Is it worthwhile to have a transmission/oil cooler installed when building it? would that even be a factor? Should I overpsec the radiator compared to a typical one?
|
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2017 04:24
|
|
|
In your case as you have the body in bare metal, you should consider seam welding the body in strategic areas. Although it depends on what kind of loads are transferred onto the body in you body-on-frame car.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2017 06:16
|
|
|
NinjaTech posted:Have any of you guys broken an engine in on a track only car during a race weekend? I got my engine built by Loying's in Portland, OR for my Spec Miata. I got it installed this weekend, ran Rotella T4 while it warmed up to bleed coolant and set the timing. I changed the oil after that with Rotella T4 again but can't drive the car on the street. I'm figuring my only option is to take it easy on Saturday and change the oil during lunch and at the end of the day. I'm hoping I can run it at full race pace on Sunday. BitBasher posted:Is it worthwhile to have a transmission/oil cooler installed when building it? would that even be a factor? NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 11:55 on Aug 9, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2017 11:36
|
|
|
NinjaTech posted:Have any of you guys broken an engine in on a track only car during a race weekend? I got my engine built by Loying's in Portland, OR for my Spec Miata. I got it installed this weekend, ran Rotella T4 while it warmed up to bleed coolant and set the timing. I changed the oil after that with Rotella T4 again but can't drive the car on the street. I'm figuring my only option is to take it easy on Saturday and change the oil during lunch and at the end of the day. I'm hoping I can run it at full race pace on Sunday. I agree with NitroSpazzz that a plan like that should be fine, but if you had Loynings build it, I'd give them a call to get their opinion.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2017 12:25
|
|
DoLittle posted:In your case as you have the body in bare metal, you should consider seam welding the body in strategic areas. Although it depends on what kind of loads are transferred onto the body in you body-on-frame car. Thanks. I believe my welder was going to reinforce some areas from the get go, mainly A pillars and surrounding area and where the pillars meet the roof. According to him on a car on frame those are the problematic areas a car will fold, because the bottom is generally more structurally sound. I'll verify this with him. NitroSpazzz posted:Oversized radiator could help if you're doing long track sessions or in a very hot area. Oil/trans cooler is probably overkill unless again long session in a very hot area. Eh, I live in Vegas. It was over 115 for most of a month and it was over 100 at midnight more than a few times. I'm not sure if that's overkill or just not a horrible idea. Because of the state my car is in now I would think it would be a lot cheaper to plan and build stuff like this in now as I go as opposed to retrofitting it later if needed.
|
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2017 13:56
|
|
|
BitBasher posted:Eh, I live in Vegas. It was over 115 for most of a month and it was over 100 at midnight more than a few times. I'm not sure if that's overkill or just not a horrible idea. Because of the state my car is in now I would think it would be a lot cheaper to plan and build stuff like this in now as I go as opposed to retrofitting it later if needed. Vegas...yeah more cooling isn't going to hurt you at all. Slightly up-sized radiator and a oil cooler with thermostat would be worth doing.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2017 14:06
|
|
|
Bigger radiator is a good start, but the important thing is to monitor temps. Coolant and oil temp gauges with warnings would be really useful (btw I carry a good selection of them). More water than coolant is also helpful. Water is better at carrying and transferring heat than the coolant. Somewhere like Vegas you could almost run 100% water and something like water wetter but you need some corrosion protection in there too. So like 20% anti-freeze/coolant would be a good start. The thing that often gets overlooked is airflow. Compared to just having a big radiator sitting behind the grill and in front of the engine, guiding the air in and out of the radiator is way more effective. Plus hood louvers are cool.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2017 20:07
|
|
jamal posted:Bigger radiator is a good start, but the important thing is to monitor temps. Coolant and oil temp gauges with warnings would be really useful (btw I carry a good selection of them). The car will have a computer that is being built to monitor and control systems, so adding temperature sensors with alarms is very doable. Aerodynamics I haven't even brought up here yet but I know will be a long term problem. I was told that early Chevelles have real problems with front end lift and loss of steering authority at high speeds and I am still hoping to run in the class up to 165 mph in the SSCC. I was told I will need an air dam/splitter fabricated under the front bumper and a way for air to escape the hood (and possibly wheel wells) to alleviate issues would resolve the issue satisfactorily but I was assuming that was near the end of the build. I had suggested to me that possible leaving the back of the cowl open on a two or 4 inch cowl hood while adding a little reinforcement there might allow enough airflow but I suspect this may not be the case. I cringe at picking up shock load sensors at 2500 each to get good data, I was considering perhaps trying to use ultrasound distance sensors and a computer averaging a result over a last 5 seconds rolling time to measure the distance the shock unloading which could be translated into how much weight is being taken off, which is like 100 bucks instead of 5k for the front end but I don't yet know enough about that to say if I'm just being a retard or not. In fact, getting an real facts on fixing aero on old cars was something Google wasn't really helpful with because I get piles of redneck forum posts that amount to "I DID THIS" with no real evidence it actually worked or was (relatively) safe. I'm finding it hard to find real facts about aero. I know of at least one case where a guy got a 66 Chevelle to 240.1 mph so I know it can be done, but real info seems hard to find.
|
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2017 20:32
|
|
|
All right, let's see. The way pressure works, openings at the cowl area are almost always at high pressure - air hits the windshield and stacks up. Thus why there's those cowl induction hoods. I'm not sure what you're looking at for data, but shock pots are about an order of magnitude cheaper; https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=MC-206 is one of the pro grade options. If you're trying to tune shocks you need to sample at 1khz or so to get all the relevant frequencies, if you're just trying to compute aero load, 10hz or so is fine. Vorshlag is doing a 69 Camaro on a similar theme; say whatever you want about them, they have thought through a lot of things so it's not a bad place to crib ideas. See http://www.vorshlag.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8393 for that. There's a philosophy I heard from back in the IMSA GTP days that Vorshlag are sorta following too; "well, if you don't have the budget for wind tunnel testing, just copy the people who do". Air dams/splitters are good and simple, venting hoods near the front where air is perpendicular to the surface is good because that's low pressure, venting air out the wheel wells is good, so on and so forth. Additional non-obvious alarm - water pressure. Water temperature sensors may or may not tell you of a blown/slipped/leaking hose - you may just end up with a water temperature sensor that is reading air temperature inside the water pump, but a water pressure sensor will tell you.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2017 20:46
|
|
|
Bingo. Air goes into the cowl, not out, because the base of the windshield is at a fairly high relative pressure. Venting in the hood basically needs to all be in the forward half. A splitter, and blocking off as much open space in the front of the car will help with aero. The less air going into the engine bay besides what is needed for cooling, the better. Then sending all that air out the hood instead of into the wheel wheels and under the car is the other part. jamal fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Aug 9, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2017 20:50
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 14:52 |
|
|
Here's a pic of an NA Miata with some aero and heat extraction that works: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/1024x479/80-091915_brp13cw_spm_1024_41b5a4e23f644c3f42cdc35ef3614ed9273a4c4b.jpg
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2017 22:41
|
|