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yamdankee posted:$300 in parts + labor - it wasn't the wheel speed sensors Been there. Found out the hard way that my buddy's E46 ABS problems were not his wheel speed sensors after replacing all 4. It was his ABS module.
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Aug 4, 2017 22:16
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InitialDave posted:I think you need to start off by getting a quote from someone, at least. What has been said to you by garages you've taken it to already? I can't imagine they wouldn't have mentioned it. I've only taken it to the mechanic I regularly use and they don't do rust repair at all. They basically just said "Yeah, you need to get your running boards sorted out before we'll give you a new inspection sticker" without a lot of specific detail beyond. I'll hit up some places and see if I can get an actual quote for the repair on Monday, I guess. (sorry to be a big babby about the whole thing, I appreciate all the hand-holding)
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Aug 4, 2017 22:18
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Looking at the amount and locations of the rust and the description of its mechanical problems, I would not repair that. Rust in the northeast is terminal, and with what your seeing there its probably in a bunch of other important places. I would suggest spending money on something else. Maybe someone in NY would buy the Sentra for $500 since their inspection doesn't have a standard for rust.
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Aug 4, 2017 22:36
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Been there. Found out the hard way that my buddy's E46 ABS problems were not his wheel speed sensors after replacing all 4. Would you say that's probably the next thing in line to be the culprit?
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Aug 4, 2017 22:36
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rdb posted:Looking at the amount and locations of the rust and the description of its mechanical problems, I would not repair that. Rust in the northeast is terminal, and with what your seeing there its probably in a bunch of other important places. I would suggest spending money on something else. Maybe someone in NY would buy the Sentra for $500 since their inspection doesn't have a standard for rust. Yeah i would second this. These are the issues you can see. All that salt and poo poo got blown into those panels as well. The flooboards and frame may be a disaster too.
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Aug 4, 2017 22:54
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Is it possible to rotate tires at home with one jack lift? If so what's the method and which way do I rotate? Also. When replacing breaks and pushing the piston back in with the clamp, how do you know how far back to go.
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Aug 4, 2017 23:22
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DogonCrook posted:If its new id check the distributor make sure its giving an rpm signal. Im thinking about putting one in my car, aside from it not working do you like it more than a carb? I don't know how to do that. I've liked it a lot right up until it quit running on me. I've got the whole setup in my wrangler so I do a lot of off-road trail riding and rock climbing and it maintains performance really well.
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Aug 4, 2017 23:22
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lol internet. posted:Is it possible to rotate tires at home with one jack lift? If you can jack up the whole side of the car at once, you can just swap front to back. If you can only get one tire off the ground at a time, you're going to need a spare replace the one you pull off.
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Aug 4, 2017 23:25
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yamdankee posted:Would you say that's probably the next thing in line to be the culprit? I can't say for sure. I'm not familiar enough and I'll bet the internet would know better. But I wouldn't doubt it.
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Aug 4, 2017 23:27
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lol internet. posted:Is it possible to rotate tires at home with one jack lift? It's possible if you also use your spare tire. Jack up a corner, take wheel off, put on spare, then move on to the next one. Look in your owners manual for the rotation order, or read this https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=43 Squeeze the piston back until it stops/wont go any further. Note that rear disc brake pistons often need to be turned with a special tool to get them to retract. It depends on the parking brake design... do some checking on that to see if it applies to your car.
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Aug 4, 2017 23:35
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Juan Carlos III posted:I don't know how to do that. The new auto multimeters that can read dwell will give you an rpm readout at the coil. They arent too expensive you can find them under 20. There might be some old school voodoo way to do it too if you google it. Maybe the tach signal. I would basically try and find out if its before or after the computer that the signal is lost. Check your grounds real good too. Without being able to read off the coil i would look up what you are testing for on the injector side of the wiring and test that. Make sure no wires got burnt or anything visiually too. To me it sounds like you are getting no signal at all to the injectors.
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Aug 4, 2017 23:51
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Lol jackstands are 25 bucks. Use jackstands.
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Aug 4, 2017 23:53
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rdb posted:Looking at the amount and locations of the rust and the description of its mechanical problems, I would not repair that. Rust in the northeast is terminal, and with what your seeing there its probably in a bunch of other important places. I would suggest spending money on something else. Maybe someone in NY would buy the Sentra for $500 since their inspection doesn't have a standard for rust. Thirding this. A lot of places won't touch structural rust and you might be getting into custom metalwork territory. It's not worth fixing it, if it can't get reinspected then I think that's about it for the car unless you can find a shop with looser standards and limp another year out of it (don't do this).
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Aug 5, 2017 00:37
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RIP Paul Walker posted:Oh, so you're used to the Cali Car Experience? The car is only 4 years old and it passed its pre-purchase inspection with no rust detected so hopefully it will be ok!!!
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Aug 5, 2017 00:56
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Chrysler PT Cruiser, 2006. I had the spark plugs replaced 2 days ago, and the car's been running with no problems. Popped open the hood today to check oil/coolant levels and heard something fall to the ground. Upon inspection, found a spark plug on the ground. Somewhat blackened, but I did drive 400 miles in the last couple of days. I'm trying to figure out if one of the new plugs popped out or if the mechanic just accidentally left one of the old plugs under the hood somewhere. I drove the car for three miles after that and performance seemed fine, so I'm thinking it's just an old plug they forgot to throw away. Is there anything I can do to figure it out more clearly? All the cables under the hood seem fine, but I don't know how to check the spark plugs on a PT Cruiser and should take it on a drive at 7am, so I'd prefer not to take it to a mechanic if there's an easy way to check whether it's an old misplaced plug or a new one that fell out.
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Aug 5, 2017 05:36
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Its almost undoubtedly one of the old plugs - if you'd driven 400 miles with a misfiring cylinder you'd know it. Symptoms would include a very noticeable loss of power, engine running rough and a CEL (potentially flashing) for a misfire.
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Aug 5, 2017 05:50
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Itll sound like the flubber car if a spark plug is missing. Yours definetly isnt. Its real noticeable and pretty lol. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0hBlq2fZR7A
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Aug 5, 2017 05:58
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Thanks for the quick answer - I figured it was an old plug too, but don't really know enough about cars to be sure. 
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Aug 5, 2017 06:15
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Breakfast Feud posted:Thirding this. A lot of places won't touch structural rust and you might be getting into custom metalwork territory. It's not worth fixing it, if it can't get reinspected then I think that's about it for the car unless you can find a shop with looser standards and limp another year out of it (don't do this). 4th-ing. That's sill panel replacement time (or rocker panel I think what they call them in the US). Needs new panels welded in. At least $1000 with minor interior rust repair and paint on the cheap.
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Aug 5, 2017 16:39
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 So I broke this tiny little screen last night. I can replace it, but it would be as part of a whole oil pressure relief assembly ($150-$200, probably special order). I feel like I've seen things like this before in carburetors or paint guns or something. Do you guys have any idea where I might find a similar/workable replacement? My google-fu is coming up with nothing but VAPE PARTZ. It's 8mm diameter and approximately 11mm long.
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Aug 5, 2017 17:04
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Boys who love boys
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A tip filter looks like this and i know ive seen that drat thing too. None of the tip filters where an exact match although there are some that could maybe work? Inline filters are often cones but it wouldnt have the plastic structure but maybe you could trim a cone filter to fit inside. Maybe clean it real good and take a pic on a white background and use it to image search.
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Aug 5, 2017 17:32
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Can you not go to a head shop and just jam a pipe screen in there?
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Aug 5, 2017 21:50
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monsterzero posted:
That looks like a transmission part, so suncoast maybe? E: theres lots of little screens like that in them but for the life of me I cant find an exact match. What are you working with? Example: https://www.ebay.com/i/112318961316 rdb fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Aug 5, 2017 |
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Aug 5, 2017 22:11
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im changing the fuel tank and pump, 98 k1500 5.7 blah blah, i got one strap loose, but the other one the bolt is just spinning spinning spinning. i dont see how i can get a wrench in there
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Aug 5, 2017 22:40
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Is it meant to be a captive nut? If so, just go straight to the end option. Cut it off, weld in a new captive nut.
InitialDave fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Aug 5, 2017 |
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Aug 5, 2017 22:47
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You could maybe get a wrench with a 90 bend at the head but i would just cut it off and get a new strap and bolts.
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Aug 5, 2017 22:53
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k thanks thats what i was thinking. i have new straps and hardware.
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Aug 5, 2017 23:13
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this is not me irl, but he is a personal hero
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Aug 5, 2017 23:33
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rdb posted:That looks like a transmission part, so suncoast maybe? That's closer. It's a from 2004 Subaru Outback H6. It's part of the timing chain/oil system, so not from the transmission (part of the oil pump relief valve assembly.) I'll look into this further. This would be something like a 'transmission solenoid screen' or a 'transmission valve screen' right?
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Aug 5, 2017 23:50
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Hey guys, if anyone's familiar with body work/painting I'd appreciate some extra eyes on this. Noticed a huge fuckoff scratch on my newly painted car and it looks to me like it was done during the painting process. Before I go back to the body shop I'd just like a few more opinions. It's a 1974 Ford Maverick that was taken down to metal and two stage painted. Thanks.
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Aug 6, 2017 00:30
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I'm not an expert by any means by that looks like a long piece of some kind of fibre was pulled off when the paint was wet
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Aug 6, 2017 00:48
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So attaching the ratchet straps to the hood hinges worked great - the hood now opens and closes! But I have a couple permanent problem now; one is that the hinges are permanently bad - they hold the hood up fine but they will go past their normal full lock and get stuck again. Maybe I can just pinch/bend the hinge so that the tab that supposed to limit the range of movement works, but that's honestly the lesser of two issues. The bigger problem is that the hood is bent - it's maybe an inch short at the front and more at the apex of the curves on the side. It's a steel hood and as such I'm thinking it's permanently stressed/fatigued and never really going to be great again. Soooooo ....this?
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Aug 6, 2017 00:54
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monsterzero posted:That's closer. It's a from 2004 Subaru Outback H6. It's part of the timing chain/oil system, so not from the transmission (part of the oil pump relief valve assembly.) I'll look into this further. This would be something like a 'transmission solenoid screen' or a 'transmission valve screen' right? If you enter your car info on this you can search the schematics by category and find the part and buy it that way or at least get the part number. http://parts.subaru.com
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Aug 6, 2017 01:05
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I looked briefly at the oil pump schematic and didn't see it. Was that screen captive inside of a bolt? I am wondering if it would interchange with some later year 4cyl ones. Perhaps the subaru thread could answer.
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Aug 6, 2017 01:19
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DogonCrook posted:If you enter your car info on this you can search the schematics by category and find the part and buy it that way or at least get the part number. rdb posted:I looked briefly at the oil pump schematic and didn't see it. Was that screen captive inside of a bolt? I am wondering if it would interchange with some later year 4cyl ones. Perhaps the subaru thread could answer. It's actually on the backside of part 15040. Don't think there's anything like that on the H4s since this part also sprays oil onto the timing chain, which would be unwanted on timing belt equipped motor. It's not in a bolt or anything, just this little hole:  The little hole in the little hole leads to an even smaller hole: the chain oil spray orifice.
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Aug 6, 2017 01:45
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I cant even find sometging similar in other models. There are a couple of banjo fitting filters that come real close. https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/cooling_systems/oil_filters/parts/230122ERL
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Aug 6, 2017 02:08
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Jack B Nimble posted:So attaching the ratchet straps to the hood hinges worked great - the hood now opens and closes! But I have a couple permanent problem now; one is that the hinges are permanently bad - they hold the hood up fine but they will go past their normal full lock and get stuck again. Maybe I can just pinch/bend the hinge so that the tab that supposed to limit the range of movement works, but that's honestly the lesser of two issues. The bigger problem is that the hood is bent - it's maybe an inch short at the front and more at the apex of the curves on the side. Hold up! Before you start beating on the hood panel, let's be sure it's actually bent, and not out of alignment. With the hinge problem you have, it is quite possible that it (the hinge bracket assembly) has been bent in a way that throws off the shut-lines between the hood, fender & front-end lip. Please post photos with the hood shut - one from the side, showing the vertical (mis)alignment, and at a couple along the front, preferably shooting from above down (or at least at a very steep angle down) showing the fender shut-line, and maybe one more from the front back along the hood/fender top plane. You'd be surprised how much of that can be adjusted out. If the hinge is bent, though, you may need to have to replace it before alignment of the shut-lines can be truly restored.
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Aug 6, 2017 02:11
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Recommendations for good, cheap hood pins? The Gorester's hood release is janky and I'm tired of it.
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Aug 6, 2017 02:47
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Rivet a leather belt to the hood itll look classy like an old ferrari. Summit probably has the biggest selection of stuff like that and they are pretty cheap. The summit brand stuff has never let me down and is pretty high quality.
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Aug 6, 2017 06:53
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Can someone give me a list of stuff to do to a car that has been parked for 8 years? Its a 92 nissan sentra, been parked for 8 years. It needs a new battery, oil change, coolant, tires, brakes bled. Is there some additive I can add to the gas tank or am I going to need to drain the gas out somehow? It has been parked in a garage it's entire life just hasn't been started in 8 years.
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Aug 6, 2017 12:23
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