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spog
Aug 7, 2004

It's your own bloody fault.

deratomicdog posted:

Can someone give me a list of stuff to do to a car that has been parked for 8 years? Its a 92 nissan sentra, been parked for 8 years. It needs a new battery, oil change, coolant, tires, brakes bled. Is there some additive I can add to the gas tank or am I going to need to drain the gas out somehow? It has been parked in a garage it's entire life just hasn't been started in 8 years.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1BiFpSkMbNQ

Drain the gas and use it in your leaf blower

While you are doing this, change the fuel filters.

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Jack B Nimble
Dec 25, 2007


Soiled Meat
Should deratomic God do anything proactive about the heater core?

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008






I'd change the plugs as well

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

deratomicdog posted:

Can someone give me a list of stuff to do to a car that has been parked for 8 years? Its a 92 nissan sentra, been parked for 8 years. It needs a new battery, oil change, coolant, tires, brakes bled. Is there some additive I can add to the gas tank or am I going to need to drain the gas out somehow? It has been parked in a garage it's entire life just hasn't been started in 8 years.

For the gasoline, if there's not much in the tank I'm a fan of the Dilution Solution, just fill it up with fresh gas. Otherwise siphon it out and let it evaporate, I hate using poo poo gas in small engines because you can't dilute it with good stuff.

Jack B Nimble
Dec 25, 2007


Soiled Meat

PainterofCrap posted:

Hold up! Before you start beating on the hood panel, let's be sure it's actually bent, and not out of alignment.

With the hinge problem you have, it is quite possible that it (the hinge bracket assembly) has been bent in a way that throws off the shut-lines between the hood, fender & front-end lip.

Please post photos with the hood shut - one from the side, showing the vertical (mis)alignment, and at a couple along the front, preferably shooting from above down (or at least at a very steep angle down) showing the fender shut-line, and maybe one more from the front back along the hood/fender top plane.

You'd be surprised how much of that can be adjusted out. If the hinge is bent, though, you may need to have to replace it before alignment of the shut-lines can be truly restored.

I got the cable latch replaced, feels like quite a victory since it's been like that for about 3 years and it also let me replace the busted grill :woop: I also spent a puzzled minute wondering how I was going to route the cable so that it was juuust the right length so that the mechanism would latch and unlatch from the 2 inches of movement on the switch - but then of course I saw that it's designed to be fasted to the mechanism, thank you, engineers from 30 years ago.

The hood does latch and unlatch in it's current condition, so that's something.

As for the hood itself:









kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

deratomicdog posted:

Can someone give me a list of stuff to do to a car that has been parked for 8 years? Its a 92 nissan sentra, been parked for 8 years. It needs a new battery, oil change, coolant, tires, brakes bled. Is there some additive I can add to the gas tank or am I going to need to drain the gas out somehow? It has been parked in a garage it's entire life just hasn't been started in 8 years.

Check all the hoses too in addition to what everyone else said.

DogonCrook
Apr 24, 2016

I think my 20 years as hurricane chaser might be a little relevant ive been through more hurricanws than moat shiitty newscasters
After you fill it all up and start it, buy a can or two of seafoam and put some in your gas, oil, and transmission. It may smoke a lot and drive a little rough at first. Put 100 miles on it as quick as possible then change the oil, oil filter, trans fluid and trans filter. Id do a can in the gas (less than a qtr tank of gas makes this more effective) and split another can for engine and tranny.

Thatll basically break down and burn off the gunk or crap that accumulated. Even if you dont use seafoam i would drive it for a couple hundred miles then change both oils and filters because you want to get any crap that breaks loose out.

If you google how to seafoam your car you will of course get the method to suck it into the vac lines and create a massive smoke cloud. Its fine to do this, i don't think its necessary here though. Its kinda hilarious but if you do it in a neighborhood there is a good chance the fire department will show up and you have to clear the computer becuase it will interpret it as a problem. Water imo is exactly as effective for blowing out the cylinders so thats another option. I personally would do it because its pretty easy so why not, but again im really not joking about how massive of a smoke cloud you will make. You may blanket your entire block in thick smoke.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.

StormDrain posted:

For the gasoline, if there's not much in the tank I'm a fan of the Dilution Solution, just fill it up with fresh gas. Otherwise siphon it out and let it evaporate, I hate using poo poo gas in small engines because you can't dilute it with good stuff.
Yeah, I've found this is usually fine.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

DogonCrook posted:

After you fill it all up and start it, buy a can or two of seafoam and put some in your gas, oil, and transmission. It may smoke a lot and drive a little rough at first. Put 100 miles on it as quick as possible then change the oil, oil filter, trans fluid and trans filter. Id do a can in the gas (less than a qtr tank of gas makes this more effective) and split another can for engine and tranny.

Wait, seafoam in the trans fluid? :stare: You know on most automatics, you only get about 1/3 of the fluid out when you drain them, right?

DogonCrook
Apr 24, 2016

I think my 20 years as hurricane chaser might be a little relevant ive been through more hurricanws than moat shiitty newscasters
Yeah its going to thin the oil and break stuff down and then heat up breaking down more and burn off or evaporate the first time it heats so it only actually works for a couple mins. By the time you need the thicker oil itll all be gone. The old school way is to just pour gas in there but people generally balk at the idea so i recommend seafoam now lol. There are instructions for it on the seafoam site and on the can i believe.

Pro tip if ypu can heat a part to 200-250 in an oven and then soak it in seafoam all the gunk will just fall off. It works incredibly well when its hot.

E: oh yeah and to be clear you need to get all the crap it blows free out. If it wont fully drain it needs a thorough flush ro get the deposits out. Itll need this whether you seafoam or not imo.

DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 19:32 on Aug 6, 2017

DogonCrook
Apr 24, 2016

I think my 20 years as hurricane chaser might be a little relevant ive been through more hurricanws than moat shiitty newscasters
Apparently they make a trans specific fluid now. Imo its the same thing and they are branding it because there is a hesitation with consumers ie "how could it work on engine and trans?" Type disbelief. Im not convinced any of this is better than just water and gas.

Seafoam as a cleaner is pricey but really drat good. Their deep creep is a great product too for cleaning as well especially intake tracts. Its all kinda pricey to use constantly though. But if you have something you cant get into to clean and it can handle heat, put it in the oven, soak it in deep creep overnight, its surprisingly effective on poo poo i would normally give up on.

E:i looked it up the trans specific fluid is the exact same ingredients in adifferent concentrations. The trans fluid stuff is designed to hang around longer giving the transmission more time to warm up before it cooks off. I actually would use the trans specific fluid. As i said before this stuff works noticeably better while heated, so it makes sense.

DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Aug 6, 2017

DogonCrook
Apr 24, 2016

I think my 20 years as hurricane chaser might be a little relevant ive been through more hurricanws than moat shiitty newscasters
Has anyone put a grant steering wheel on a car that had one as a stock option? Do i actually need the adapter? Its an old mopar if it matters.

lol internet.
Sep 4, 2007
the internet makes you stupid
How the hell do I pull a fuse out of the fuse box? Tweezers don't gripe enough and pliers end up crushing the plastic

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

lol internet. posted:

How the hell do I pull a fuse out of the fuse box? Tweezers don't gripe enough and pliers end up crushing the plastic

There should be a little tool included somewhere, either nestled among the fuses or in the cover. It should look like these.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I've rarely had good luck with those. Pliers and a few spare fuses seems to work best for me.

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...

IOwnCalculus posted:

I've rarely had good luck with those. Pliers and a few spare fuses seems to work best for me.

Yup. And wider-jawed pliers help, too. Think lineman's pliers or slip-joints. Needlenoses will probably just chew your poo poo up.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
I use a pair of old forceps for difficult fuses.

glyph
Apr 6, 2006



Help me out here, hivemind (I can't get a free moment to think about it in earnest):

On a sliding brake caliper, can you diagnose a stuck pin vs a non-retracting caliper piston based on which pad is worn to poo poo?

I.e. does a stuck pin wear the inside prematurely while a piston wears the outside (or both) prematurely? Or the opposite? Is there a telltale?

Seems typing this out has given me the time to think this out- "no" is the answer that I'm arriving at. But am I missing something?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

glyph posted:

Help me out here, hivemind (I can't get a free moment to think about it in earnest):

On a sliding brake caliper, can you diagnose a stuck pin vs a non-retracting caliper piston based on which pad is worn to poo poo?

I.e. does a stuck pin wear the inside prematurely while a piston wears the outside (or both) prematurely? Or the opposite? Is there a telltale?

Seems typing this out has given me the time to think this out- "no" is the answer that I'm arriving at. But am I missing something?

Most sliding calipers have the pistons in just one side, and slide along the slide pins to keep the disc centered between the pads, right? To me, that would mean that a sticking slide would cause one side (opposite the piston, so probably the outside pad) to wear faster, whereas a non-retracting piston would cause both pads to be in contact, and thus wear both of them. Right? Or of it's a two-piston caliper (with both pistons on the same side) having one of them stick would cause the pads to both wear slanted, I think.

I'm just going off of a mental idea of how things work, since I don't have any disc brakes, so someone who has more firsthand knowledge might have a clearer picture.

Fender Anarchist
May 20, 2009

Fender Anarchist

A stuck pin will make the inside pad wear out faster. Since the caliper can't slide, there's no mechanism to apply force to the outside pad, so it stops wearing.

Non-retracting piston would manifest as a pull toward the side in question, especially right after releasing the brakes. If the slide is lubed, they'll still wear evenly, though.

A sticking piston you'll usually also be able to see in the form of heat spots or discoloration on the rotor. Whole lotta extra heat getting dumped into it.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Enourmo posted:

A stuck pin will make the inside pad wear out faster. Since the caliper can't slide, there's no mechanism to apply force to the outside pad, so it stops wearing.

Non-retracting piston would manifest as a pull toward the side in question, especially right after releasing the brakes. If the slide is lubed, they'll still wear evenly, though.

A sticking piston you'll usually also be able to see in the form of heat spots or discoloration on the rotor. Whole lotta extra heat getting dumped into it.

That makes sense, I was thinking of it sticking in a position where it would drag the outside pad until it wears down. Which is dumb, because it would quickly self-clearance and then stop wearing any further.

Seems like a stuck piston would act like a dragging shoe, where you'd be able to tell by touching the wheel and seeing if you have skin left on your finger afterwards.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe


Jack B Nimble posted:

I got the cable latch replaced, feels like quite a victory since it's been like that for about 3 years and it also let me replace the busted grill :woop: I also spent a puzzled minute wondering how I was going to route the cable so that it was juuust the right length so that the mechanism would latch and unlatch from the 2 inches of movement on the switch - but then of course I saw that it's designed to be fasted to the mechanism, thank you, engineers from 30 years ago.

The hood does latch and unlatch in it's current condition, so that's something.

As for the hood itself:



Uh, hood's good & pranged, whale away on that all day, you might get lucky. Then hit a salvage yard for a new hood when you can.

cods
Nov 14, 2005

Oh snap-kins!
My wife and I are moving across country from NY where we don't have cars to La where we will need cars in about a month.

I will 85% more than likely going there, but she is quitting her job here and will have to find one out there. I am done working/working on getting something out there(I'm a chef so I have to be out there to do tastings/interview so I'm working on setting up interviews )

Our credit scores: pretty lovely around 630(student loans)

We are gonna get one around here and drive over. She is getting hers first while she is still working.

Most of our cash is tied up in the move.

What is the most painless way of getting a car assuming whatever we get we will pay off as soon as possible?

Go to a bank? Online loans? Do you have any good recommendations? Getting financing at a dealership?

We both want something inexpensive and reliable that can get us from a to b out there.

We just have no idea where to start.

Michael Scott
Jan 3, 2010

by zen death robot

cods posted:

My wife and I are moving across country from NY where we don't have cars to La where we will need cars in about a month.

I will 85% more than likely going there, but she is quitting her job here and will have to find one out there. I am done working/working on getting something out there(I'm a chef so I have to be out there to do tastings/interview so I'm working on setting up interviews )

Our credit scores: pretty lovely around 630(student loans)

We are gonna get one around here and drive over. She is getting hers first while she is still working.

Most of our cash is tied up in the move.

What is the most painless way of getting a car assuming whatever we get we will pay off as soon as possible?

Go to a bank? Online loans? Do you have any good recommendations? Getting financing at a dealership?

We both want something inexpensive and reliable that can get us from a to b out there.

We just have no idea where to start.

You need to think a bit more on this. I think the most important piece of missing info is budget.

Once you have that, I think you can start thinking about year/make/model. Do you want a subcompact, compact, midsize sedan, crossover? I would suggest looking at reliable extremely mass market cars, like the Accord, Camry, and Civic. Once you have a budget look at the years that align with that budget.

Start with https://www.cars.com and focus on dealerships that have a make attached to the name, like Bob Loblaw Nissan.

Only look at cars with a "Free Carfax" link (not "Get Carfax") take a look and verify there's no accident history or funny business.

As far as financing, check with your bank to see what they offer. I think the dealership is a good starting point, have them run a loan request for a few banks and they'll come back with interest rates they can get you. Compare those to typical rates you can find on Google to verify you're not getting screwed.

Check out the AI/BFC Car Buying Megathread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538

Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Aug 7, 2017

Jack B Nimble
Dec 25, 2007


Soiled Meat
Fixed it in 30 seconds by standing on the hood and stomping. Foot is best because it's a larger and softer surface than a hammer, maybe I can bondo the two dents later but the hood is flat and won't let in water, so this is a win.

Dennis McClaren
Mar 28, 2007

"Hey, don't put capture a guy!"
...Well I've got to put something!
I'm going to look at a 1988 Toyota van, similar to the ones talked about here - https://autofrei.wordpress.com/2011/04/12/fascination-of-the-boring-1983-1989-toyota-van/

Without knowing any details, are there any known issues with these vans I should look for?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

cods posted:

We are gonna get one around here and drive over.

I'd suggest not doing that, because an east coast car is going to be a rusty piece of crap compared to a California car of the same year. Unless you're buying brand new, for some reason. But, like Michael Scott implied, how easy this is all going to be will depend on what you're looking for and what your budget is.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

And if you're buying brand new, you will be unable to register your non-CA-smog-compliant car in CA if you have already become a CA resident, so be careful. A car you bring to CA from another state to register, has to either comply with CARB or have over 7500 miles on it. See: https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/?1dmy&urile=wcm:path:/dmv_content_en/dmv/pubs/brochures/fast_facts/ffvr29

You can get around this limitation by first registering the car in your non-CA home state, and then bringing proof of that registration to CA:

quote:

If you are moving to California from another state, you may register a new 49-state vehicle if it was first registered by you in your home state, or for military personnel, in the last state of your military service. When applying for vehicle registration in California, you must provide evidence that the vehicle was registered.

That said yeah any car that has seen a couple winters in the northeast will be in worse condition than the same car with the same miles from CA.

Ethics_Gradient
May 5, 2015

Common misconception that; that fun is relaxing. If it is, you're not doing it right.
Aside from a big socket for the axel nut, a tie rod separator, and a few cotter pins for reinstallation, will I need any special tools or finesse if I'm removing the front hubs from a '96 Starlet? (Repair manual is unavailable, but according to sources it shares most of its suspension components with Tercels/Paseos of the same vintage.) While I'm in there I've got an outer CV boot to replace on one side. I've got a socket set, breaker bar, jack stands, and a torque wrench at home already.

To my surprise, the Automotive program at work can't actually work on cars anymore (:wtc:, guess a kid hurt themselves or something), but I reckon if I can bring them the hubs, they can press the old wheel bearings out and fit it with new ones. Worst case, I can borrow the tools I need and at least save myself some labour charges at a shop. I have the bearings and CV boot already, and can leave the car up on jack stands for a few days if I need to.

Also, does anyone have suggestions for a car other than Corollas I could look for to scavenge wheels (in Australia)? It's a 4x100 stud pattern, looking for 37-39 offset. The wheels on it now are 13", according to Starlet forums it can go up to 15's without needing to modify any body panels*. Corollas seem to be my best bet as they're pretty common, but looking to expand my search net.

*But, how does one recalibrate a speedo?


edit: is a Dremel a good tool to buy for grinding off the occasional bolt and such? Considering getting one for other projects, and I know they're good for polishing metal with the right attachments, wondering about other usefulness. Any models to avoid?

Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 02:35 on Aug 8, 2017

DogonCrook
Apr 24, 2016

I think my 20 years as hurricane chaser might be a little relevant ive been through more hurricanws than moat shiitty newscasters

Ethics_Gradient posted:

Aside from a big socket for the axel nut, a tie rod separator, and a few cotter pins for reinstallation, will I need any special tools or finesse if I'm removing the front hubs from a '96 Starlet? (Repair manual is unavailable, but according to sources it shares most of its suspension components with Tercels/Paseos of the same vintage.) While I'm in there I've got an outer CV boot to replace on one side. I've got a socket set, breaker bar, jack stands, and a torque wrench at home already.

To my surprise, the Automotive program at work can't actually work on cars anymore (:wtc:, guess a kid hurt themselves or something), but I reckon if I can bring them the hubs, they can press the old wheel bearings out and fit it with new ones. Worst case, I can borrow the tools I need and at least save myself some labour charges at a shop. I have the bearings and CV boot already, and can leave the car up on jack stands for a few days if I need to.

Also, does anyone have suggestions for a car other than Corollas I could look for to scavenge wheels (in Australia)? It's a 4x100 stud pattern, looking for 37-39 offset. The wheels on it now are 13", according to Starlet forums it can go up to 15's without needing to modify any body panels*. Corollas seem to be my best bet as they're pretty common, but looking to expand my search net.

*But, how does one recalibrate a speedo?


edit: is a Dremel a good tool to buy for grinding off the occasional bolt and such? Considering getting one for other projects, and I know they're good for polishing metal with the right attachments, wondering about other usefulness. Any models to avoid?

Bend the needle lol.

An autometer gps gauge is probably the cheapest easist way. You may be able to wire a gps receiver to or swap the guts of the original gauge with the autometer but it really depends on how they made the gauge cluster on that car.

DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Aug 8, 2017

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

DogonCrook posted:

Bend the needle lol.

An autometer gps gauge is probably the cheapest easist way. You may be able to wire a gps receiver to or swap the guts of the original gauge with the autometer but it really depends on how they made the gauge cluster on that car.

I assume those still have a mechanical speedo, so there should be different gears you can get for the trans end of the cable to bring it back within reason. That's assuming that you can't find a tire size that will be the same overall diameter as your old set.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Ethics_Gradient posted:

Also, does anyone have suggestions for a car other than Corollas I could look for to scavenge wheels (in Australia)? It's a 4x100 stud pattern, looking for 37-39 offset. The wheels on it now are 13", according to Starlet forums it can go up to 15's without needing to modify any body panels*. Corollas seem to be my best bet as they're pretty common, but looking to expand my search net.

1992-2000 Honda Civics/1990-2001 Integras - the higher trims came with a 14" on Civics (at least in the US) and 15" on later Integras. The offset on stock wheels might be a little more than what you're looking for (I think it's around +45), unless you find someone selling a set of aftermarket wheels. 1986-1989 Honda Accords used the same bolt/bore/offset as the others I mentioned, but most of them shipped with 13's (alloys were 14"). 88-91 Civics also ran the same, but they were almost universally 13's (in the US anyway) unless someone slapped aftermarket wheels on.

Center bore may be different - those all ran 56.1mm, I think.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Ethics_Gradient posted:

Aside from a big socket for the axel nut, a tie rod separator, and a few cotter pins for reinstallation, will I need any special tools or finesse if I'm removing the front hubs from a '96 Starlet? (Repair manual is unavailable, but according to sources it shares most of its suspension components with Tercels/Paseos of the same vintage.) While I'm in there I've got an outer CV boot to replace on one side. I've got a socket set, breaker bar, jack stands, and a torque wrench at home already.

To my surprise, the Automotive program at work can't actually work on cars anymore (:wtc:, guess a kid hurt themselves or something), but I reckon if I can bring them the hubs, they can press the old wheel bearings out and fit it with new ones. Worst case, I can borrow the tools I need and at least save myself some labour charges at a shop. I have the bearings and CV boot already, and can leave the car up on jack stands for a few days if I need to.

Also, does anyone have suggestions for a car other than Corollas I could look for to scavenge wheels (in Australia)? It's a 4x100 stud pattern, looking for 37-39 offset. The wheels on it now are 13", according to Starlet forums it can go up to 15's without needing to modify any body panels*. Corollas seem to be my best bet as they're pretty common, but looking to expand my search net.

*But, how does one recalibrate a speedo?


edit: is a Dremel a good tool to buy for grinding off the occasional bolt and such? Considering getting one for other projects, and I know they're good for polishing metal with the right attachments, wondering about other usefulness. Any models to avoid?

Mazda 323/familia of similar vintage?

DogonCrook
Apr 24, 2016

I think my 20 years as hurricane chaser might be a little relevant ive been through more hurricanws than moat shiitty newscasters

Raluek posted:

I assume those still have a mechanical speedo, so there should be different gears you can get for the trans end of the cable to bring it back within reason. That's assuming that you can't find a tire size that will be the same overall diameter as your old set.

Yeah that would work too. They have cable driven gps units now though, and on older cars its super easy to make the switch but a 96 may not be. The gps units with gauge are down to like 70$ so if its not a pain to install you get an autocalibrated gauge that wont float.

Razzled
Feb 3, 2011

MY HARLEY IS COOL
So I've been trying to figure out if this 2011 Civic coupe's issues are an easy fix or it's basically ready to die horribly, anyone ever had experience with these symptoms?

1) It sounds absolutely horrible in reverse while idling and a little bit less so while actually reversing but still pretty bad. Very loud vibrations and rumbling. Subdues noticeably when you put it into drive, but the vibration is present any time you're not on the gas.

2) It has a weird stutter when it decelerates after you let off the gas: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4oSHK7diAZs

It has a gently caress ton of miles (313k) so yeah maybe the transmission is just dying?

edit: no codes or CEL to speak of. i checked with an obd ii reader

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I feel like I'm missing something because I don't see/hear anything unusual in that video.

Dagen H
Mar 19, 2009

Hogertrafikomlaggningen

IOwnCalculus posted:

I feel like I'm missing something because I don't see/hear anything unusual in that video.

It hangs at 2500rpm (0:04).

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~

Razzled posted:

So I've been trying to figure out if this 2011 Civic coupe's issues are an easy fix or it's basically ready to die horribly, anyone ever had experience with these symptoms?

1) It sounds absolutely horrible in reverse while idling and a little bit less so while actually reversing but still pretty bad. Very loud vibrations and rumbling. Subdues noticeably when you put it into drive, but the vibration is present any time you're not on the gas.

2) It has a weird stutter when it decelerates after you let off the gas: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4oSHK7diAZs

It has a gently caress ton of miles (313k) so yeah maybe the transmission is just dying?

edit: no codes or CEL to speak of. i checked with an obd ii reader

Number one sounds like motor mounts. In the vid, you are braking heavily right? The revs drop very quickly...

Razzled
Feb 3, 2011

MY HARLEY IS COOL

PaintVagrant posted:

Number one sounds like motor mounts. In the vid, you are braking heavily right? The revs drop very quickly...

0% brakes, just went from accelerating to foot completely off the gas. And yeah after googling a bit, 1) does sound like the passenger side motor mount

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PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~

Razzled posted:

0% brakes, just went from accelerating to foot completely off the gas. And yeah after googling a bit, 1) does sound like the passenger side motor mount

Thats pretty unusual behavior for an automatic transmission. The revs usually float/hang much more than that, it acted almost like it was shifted into neutral.

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