wesleywillis posted:

'09 Corolla, with rear discs. Driver's side rear caliper was changed last night. The parking brake mechanism was seizing up. I changed the caliper over, bled it, it took a while to get all the air out, but the line now seems to be air free. Pedal is good and firm.
Took it out for a test drive, did a bunch of gentle stops, hard stops, cool down time in between blah blah blah.

After the test drive, I checked out the rotor temps with a laser thermometer thingy. There was a difference of about 20*C between the passenger side and driver side. Driver side was the cooler of the two.
In my opinion, a difference of +/- 10* is probably fine but 20? Don't know, which is why I am asking the goon experts.

If the 20* difference is too much, it brings up two issues I can think of:

1. I didn't get all the air out of the caliper and thus its not clamping as hard as it should.

2. The caliper came with a new bracket and ummmmm "pad holding clips" and thus the driver's side pads were just sliding easier on the fresh lubricant and clean surfaces whereas the passenger side, though the pads were replaced and lubricated a few months ago, have had time to acquire dirt and poo poo.

What says you goony goons?

DogonCrook posted:

OBD I ecus have to be chipped or will have to be piggybacked. Im not sure about that specific ecu but they are usually sealed or marked in some way so you can tell if its been opened. Or check the chip but if they preprogrammed its probably easier to just buy a new chip.

E: to check if its piggy backed itll be another box wired to that harness. Some have a switch so you can swap programs mounted under the dash.

Ethics_Gradient posted:

So, I picked up one of those combined 8" sub/integrated amp combo's because it was and I want to really feel the low end on those Phil Collins cassettes. Didn't come with the wiring harness or anything else though.



Am I boned?

Raluek posted:

98 is obd2, and is a Vortec not a TBI. Tunable with HPTuners.

rdb posted:

In my experience company cars are usually maintained only when they fail because whatever VP thats driving it is too busy/has too much going on and forgets/wants a new one and doesn't care. They were generally leased, and the ones that weren't got passed onto sales who put a ton of miles on them before they finally got sold. I know people who bought them after that, usually not for much and they were OK cars (ford panthers) or total poo poo (Cadillacs).

PainterofCrap posted:

I've been driving fleet cars since 1996 (insurance adjuster, company car, east coast US). These were through US Fleet and (lately) Wheels.

We strictly observe all maintenance intervals, or fail to do so at our peril, We have a company fleet coordinator whose toasty e-mails have left all of us with the impression that she was the character model for Marge from Monsters, Inc.

We have a 1,000-mile leeway on either side of the factory-mandated oil change.

My mother's had two of my prior fleet cars, and the typically sell fast.

tl/dr: the fleet cars are well-taken care of.

DogonCrook posted:

Where you just testing or were you doing a bed in procedure? The new pads arent gripping yet imo. Id give them some more miles and long solid pressure stops from speed.

Raluek posted:

That looks like a Molex Mini-fit Jr., so the plug should be pretty standard. If you have a dead computer power supply, the EPS12V plug should be that. The tricky part might be finding out which wires do what, so you'll have to see if you can find a schematic for it or a picture of the correct adapter so you can put the right wires in the right place.

InitialDave posted:

Agree on the molex plug.

Ok, it says power/speaker input, so 4 of them are likely to be +/- for L/R channels, and the other 4 dealing with power and earth. Now, I've seen Blaupunkt use that exact connector on an integrated sub/amp, so if it's one of theirs, or a copy of the same hardware, maybe you'll get lucky with that.

Have a look at page 2 of this: http://www.blaupunkt.com/fileadmin/user_upload/Service/SERVICEDOKU_ZIEL/EA/SF/7606318001001_EA_SF.pdf and page 38 of this: http://www.blaupunkt.com/uploads/tx_ddfproductsbp/BlueMagic_XLf200A_print_BPEurope_10.pdf - both the same plug, and both the same wiring scheme.

Can you dismantle it enough to see what's going on with connections between the socket and circuit board? That might be a big clue.

Breakfast Feud posted:

Unless you find the exact schematic for yours I wouldn't risk applying 12V to anything you're not certain of. Personally I would try and take it apart and follow the traces and try to determine which pins are power.

Ethics_Gradient posted:

Thanks for that!

So I have opened it up, not sure how to really tell which of the pins would be power vs speakers, but here she is:



If it's the same as that Blaupunkt molex connector:



4 and 8 are 12V
3 and 7 are ground
2 and 6 are Left
1 and 5 are Right

Does that look viable from the picture, or would I need to show more of the PCB to be able to tell?

edit: Do I even use the left/right if I'm using the low line converter that converts the tape deck's L and R channels into RCA?

spankmeister posted:

Nah that's not right. 5 and 6 are obviously ground because they're connected to that huge ground plane on the left side of the picture. Going by trace thickness I'd say 8 is probably 12v. You should really buzz this out with a multimeter. Find a known 12v point and a known ground on the circuit board and buzz it out.

spankmeister posted:

3 and 1 being the likely candidates for some kind of input because they have capacitors in series (amplifiers usually have DC blocking caps on their input)

e: hadn't had my coffee yet

Raluek posted:

The inputs are on those RCA jacks; this should have outputs and power. Right? Regardless, I don't think big electrolytics are going to be used for DC blocking (in series with a signal). More likely to be used for smoothing (in parallel to something).

spankmeister posted:

No those are "high inputs" where you can put the speaker outputs from your head unit.

Raluek posted:

This is what I was going to say, except that 5 and 6 are at the right of the photo.

Ethics_Gradient posted:

PainterofCrap posted:

I've been driving fleet cars since 1996 (insurance adjuster, company car, east coast US). These were through US Fleet and (lately) Wheels.

We strictly observe all maintenance intervals, or fail to do so at our peril, We have a company fleet coordinator whose toasty e-mails have left all of us with the impression that she was the character model for Marge from Monsters, Inc.

We have a 1,000-mile leeway on either side of the factory-mandated oil change.

My mother's had two of my prior fleet cars, and the typically sell fast.

tl/dr: the fleet cars are well-taken care of.

Krakkles posted:

Couldn't find the insurance thread - where can you get GAP insurance except via the creditor (FoMoCo, in this case)?

In California. Called Progressive (offers loan lease but not GAP, which is a lesser degree of protection), AAA, and USAA so far, the latter two just don't offer it at all.

Thanks!

Krakkles posted:

Couldn't find the insurance thread - where can you get GAP insurance except via the creditor (FoMoCo, in this case)?

In California. Called Progressive (offers loan lease but not GAP, which is a lesser degree of protection), AAA, and USAA so far, the latter two just don't offer it at all.

Thanks!

big crush on Chad OMG posted:

Progressives is up to 25% more than the ACV, if you're upside down more than that you've got bigger issues.

Krakkles posted:

I'm open to ideas on this, but I feel like this isn't totally correct. Example: We bought the car today. If it's wrecked tomorrow, it's going to pay off the loan?

(... In a month? In a year? Point being this makes sense at some point, but I don't feel safe saying it makes sense overall.)

DogonCrook posted:

I dont know how to properly size it but i would go big and tape off what you dont need so it's there if you do.

BoostCreep posted:

I'm not really worried about cooling too much since this engine will be under heavy load pretty much all the time. I'm more concerned with flow, pressure drop, BTU rating, etc. There's a cooler I'm looking at with a 29,000 BTU rating, but I don't know if that's too much or overkill, for example.

MrYenko posted:

Pressure drop across even the biggest oil cooler shouldn't be more than ~5lbs. 10gpm is a good rule of thumb for an oil system flow rate at 6-8000rpm, also, thermodynamics is hard.

Use a thermostat, and possibly a pressure bypass valve.

InitialDave posted:

Why not just blank or loop the ports on the remote filter housing to start with, and see what your oil temperature is actually like? My assumption would be that if it doesn't get too hot under hard use, you're not in need of a cooler anyway.