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Ularg posted:I gotta replace my aging and dying seven-year-old HDD. I have one picked out but I wanted to ask if there's going to be a simple way to transfer the data over that won't break everything. Like moving over my Steam library and a bunch of programs. Steam is easy. Just copy the Steam folder. You don't have to do anything else.
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Aug 6, 2017 12:56
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Only sort of hardware related, I guess. What's the easiest way to format the hdd on a computer I'm planning to sell. It's running win10 and I've already backed up everything I want to keep.
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Aug 6, 2017 13:17
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The built in Windows 10 reset your PC option. It even has an option where it zeroes over your hard drive for like 6 hours to hide all your deviant porn you sick gently caress.
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Aug 6, 2017 13:21
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Bum the Sad posted:The built in Windows 10 reset your PC option. It even has an option where it zeroes over your hard drive for like 6 hours to hide all your deviant porn you sick gently caress. This nukes the windows install as well? I've only used the factory restore option.
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Aug 6, 2017 14:28
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I would like to have both my speakers and headphones plugged in and switch between them. This works perfectly when I have one connected to the back panel and one to the front, but when I connect both to the back, Realtek doesn't seem to recognize it as a second output and add it to the manager. Is there some kind of setting to turn this on?
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Aug 6, 2017 16:33
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mistermojo posted:I would like to have both my speakers and headphones plugged in and switch between them. This works perfectly when I have one connected to the back panel and one to the front, but when I connect both to the back, Realtek doesn't seem to recognize it as a second output and add it to the manager. Is there some kind of setting to turn this on? Most built in computer sound cards only have one stereo output on the back, which is the green jack. There's usually a line in (blue) and a mic in (pink). If you have a 5.1 system there may be extra plugs for side speakers and a center/subwoofer, etc. There aren't two outputs on the back that can recognize two separate devices. I don't know what you're plugging your second device into but it's probably not a second output unless you've got a different motherboard than most. The front panel audio jacks are like a second set of jacks and most can auto sense a device in the front audio ports like the back and treat them as a secondary output. You have lots of options to do what you want but almost all of them will require you to buy something to do them. A second sound card would give you another device to juggle outputs on, a rear expansion slot plate mounted second audio jack (you could unplug the front ones) would work but you'd lose the front, an external box with a physical switch for the two devices, etc.
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Aug 6, 2017 16:49
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Rexxed posted:Most built in computer sound cards only have one stereo output on the back, which is the green jack. There's usually a line in (blue) and a mic in (pink). If you have a 5.1 system there may be extra plugs for side speakers and a center/subwoofer, etc. There aren't two outputs on the back that can recognize two separate devices. I don't know what you're plugging your second device into but it's probably not a second output unless you've got a different motherboard than most. The front panel audio jacks are like a second set of jacks and most can auto sense a device in the front audio ports like the back and treat them as a secondary output. Thanks, that makes sense, I'll stick with what I have for now then
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Aug 6, 2017 17:07
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Ularg posted:I gotta replace my aging and dying seven-year-old HDD. I have one picked out but I wanted to ask if there's going to be a simple way to transfer the data over that won't break everything. Like moving over my Steam library and a bunch of programs. You can plug in the new drive and clone it with the free cloning software any HDD vendor provides.
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Aug 6, 2017 17:18
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Rexxed posted:It will be less efficient than a smaller PSU, but not by a massive amount. Buying another power supply to save on a few watts is probably going to cost more than the extra few watts of electricity. Some good points there. I'll stick with what I've got. I think all my lightbulbs are LED anyways. The
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Aug 6, 2017 18:33
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Looking to improve my lovely internet situation at my house. Landlady has all utilities in her name, and all are included in the rent so upgrading internet isn't really an option. It's DSL over WiFi only right now. As such I barely get signal in my room from the combo modem/router. What's the better option? A bridge or a power line adapter? My current setup is a desktop with a wireless dongle and a Nintendo Switch with WiFi only. I'm leaning more towards a wireless capable powerline adapter as it should allow me to run my desktop in wired mode, and still allow me to do wifi with the switch. A cursory look on Amazon shows a pretty large price disparity between the two options. Is the powerline adapter the better/more reliable bet? If so, which one is a good deal/reliable?
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Aug 6, 2017 20:24
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Powerline adaptors used to suck hard, but I've had good experiences with newer ones, even over old house wiring. I'm currently using TP-Link 500mb/s rated adaptors, and getting about 8MB/sec, so around 1/6th the theoretical throughput, but it's rock-solid in terms of stability and packet loss. I just took 'em out of the box, plugged 'em in, and haven't touched them in two years. Edit: Fishmech, it really depends if he's in an old house or not. If the walls are lath and plaster, wifi(any type) absolutely sucks if it's not LoS. JnnyThndrs fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Aug 6, 2017 |
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Aug 6, 2017 20:34
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dog nougat posted:Looking to improve my lovely internet situation at my house. Landlady has all utilities in her name, and all are included in the rent so upgrading internet isn't really an option. It's DSL over WiFi only right now. As such I barely get signal in my room from the combo modem/router. You're on DSL, it's not going to go fast ever. You should buy her a nice Wifi router to put on the existing modem/router combo, and that'll provide sufficient performance for what the line can handle. Powerline adapters aren't really going to boost your speed that much versus a nice newer 802.11ac router. Additionally, you might want to convince her that asking her ISP to switch their provided modem/router combo out for a modem on its own would work out well, since it'll make using the separate router easier. Something like the TP-Link Archer C7 (v2) will do the trick unless this is a really huge house, and it's only $90 on amazon or so. And the router helps everyone who lives in the house, the combo the ISP provides is likely some old 802.11n or even 802.11g crap for its wireless side, which simply doesn't match the range or handling of multiple devices that 802.11ac routers can do. JnnyThndrs posted:Edit: Fishmech, it really depends if he's in an old house or not. If the walls are lath and plaster, wifi(any type) absolutely sucks if it's not LoS. He's still getting signal from the crappy low-range ISP's combo, so it should perform much better with a router that's actually designed around range. It won't be super great speeds but I doubt the modem even does 20 megabit on its best day, so it should still have plenty of room. fishmech fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Aug 6, 2017 |
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Aug 6, 2017 20:46
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Klaus Kinski posted:This nukes the windows install as well? I've only used the factory restore option. Um it reinstalls a new windows install after it zeroes over the drive, if you just wanna do a quick wipe afterwards you can boot a windows install USB, click the advanced options or whatever to get to the command line and do a quick format from there. http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-3016317/format-hard-drive-command-prompt-tutorial.html Follow that guide, though of course get to the command prompt through the boot thumb drive. Nevermind you don't even need the command line. Just boot from the USB, click Custom: Install Windows, find this screen  then format and just turn off the PC Bum the Sad fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Aug 6, 2017 |
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Aug 6, 2017 21:11
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apropos man posted:This talk of using the wrong PSU is making be think twice about continuing to run my home server off a EVGA Supernova 650w supply. It's an i3 in a MATX board with 4 drives attached: one of them an SSD. Unfortunately, you'll find that in the standard ATX form factor high efficiency power supplies are rare below 450-500W. I don't know if 200W power supplies are available at all retail, and the only ones that are Gold or higher rated that I know of under 450W are from Seasonic. I have their 400W Platinum fanless model in a machine that I used as a home server for a while and was really happy with it, but if you already have a well-rated supply attached I don't think you'd ever save enough money from the efficiency gain to make up the cost of buying it. Even the best PSUs will have a noticeable efficiency drop below around 10-15% load, but all that means is that instead of 45W you're using 50W or whatever. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Aug 7, 2017 |
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Aug 7, 2017 00:56
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mistermojo posted:I would like to have both my speakers and headphones plugged in and switch between them. This works perfectly when I have one connected to the back panel and one to the front, but when I connect both to the back, Realtek doesn't seem to recognize it as a second output and add it to the manager. Is there some kind of setting to turn this on? I do exactly this, and have my speakers connected via the audio ports on the back and my headphones connected via a USB adapter that came with them. I just switch between them using a shortcut on the desktop to the audio device control panel. There are a hundred of those USB adapters in stores, but I've no idea what may or may not be a decent one.
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Aug 7, 2017 03:47
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Bum the Sad posted:Um it reinstalls a new windows install after it zeroes over the drive, if you just wanna do a quick wipe afterwards you can boot a windows install USB, click the advanced options or whatever to get to the command line and do a quick format from there. Nice, exactly what I was looking for.
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Aug 7, 2017 08:28
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fishmech posted:You're on DSL, it's not going to go fast ever. You should buy her a nice Wifi router to put on the existing modem/router combo, and that'll provide sufficient performance for what the line can handle. Powerline adapters aren't really going to boost your speed that much versus a nice newer 802.11ac router. Additionally, you might want to convince her that asking her ISP to switch their provided modem/router combo out for a modem on its own would work out well, since it'll make using the separate router easier. Didn't consider the separate router option, as I just assumed that signal would still be poo poo. I have an older D-Link Dir-555 sitting around. Modem in question is a Motorola NVG-510. According to this link I should be able to setup the modem and router with different IP addresses. I imagine to alleviate any issues with people on the existing network it'd be better to change the IP of the router than the modem. In the linked thread people mention that I could run into double NAT issues I'm guessing setting up the router on the DMZ would circumvent this. I suspect that my connection's slow enough that I won't really see any benefit from an ac capable router at this point anyway. Regardless, this solution is free and will at least allow me to "test the waters" and see if an external router will alleviate my connection worst.
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Aug 7, 2017 20:37
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dog nougat posted:Didn't consider the separate router option, as I just assumed that signal would still be poo poo. I have an older D-Link Dir-555 sitting around. Modem in question is a Motorola NVG-510. That may help, especially if you can say, slap a 10 foot ethernet cable on it and run the second router closer to your part of the house. The idea with the 802.11ac router though, is that they tend to have much better range overall, even though you won't really need the raw speed - you will get better signal strength and a more consistent connection in general. Your Switch and your phone already support ac and it's easy to get an upgraded wireless card for the desktop that will support it as well.
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Aug 7, 2017 21:48
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Ah, wasn't aware of the increased range thing. I have a wealth of Ethernet cables and should be able to run the router past one wall. If it improves my situation, I'll look into the router you recommended. This current one is drat near 10 years old at this point anyway.
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Aug 7, 2017 22:21
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Not sure if there's a better thread for this, but my friend is looking for a decent, cabled budget controller. He's narrowed it down to a Logitech F310 and an original 360, but are there better alternatives in the same price range? What's the build quality like on the F310 compared to a 360, especially the sticks and buttons? And how far can the relatively short F310 cable be extended without consequence? Cursory googling says 5 meters. It's intedded mainly for a 360S.
SplitSoul fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Aug 8, 2017 |
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Aug 8, 2017 17:00
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SplitSoul posted:Not sure if there's a better thread for this, but my friend is looking for a decent, cabled budget controller. He's narrowed it down to a Logitech F310 and an original 360, but are there better alternatives in the same price range? What's the build quality like on the F310 compared to a 360, especially the sticks and buttons? And how far can the relatively short F310 cable be extended without consequence? Cursory googling says 5 meters. It's intedded mainly for a 360S. Are you asking for use with an actual Xbox 360? You can't use any controller with it that isn't specifically 360 compatible, and the Logitech F310 is not compatible with the 360. GameStop makes their own $20 wired 360 controllers that are of acceptable quality.
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Aug 8, 2017 17:15
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I can vouch for the thrustmaster GPX , it works fine and is also officially supported for xbox360, I have had it for over a year and had zero issues. Edit: or just get the 360 wired controller, it's just as cheap... TorakFade fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Aug 8, 2017 |
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Aug 8, 2017 17:56
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fishmech posted:Are you asking for use with an actual Xbox 360? You can't use any controller with it that isn't specifically 360 compatible, and the Logitech F310 is not compatible with the 360. Weird, I could have sworn reading that it did. Maybe it's a difference between the 360 and 360S? Very well, I'll recommend staying with the tried and true. Thanks, guys.
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Aug 8, 2017 18:14
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SplitSoul posted:Weird, I could have sworn reading that it did. Maybe it's a difference between the 360 and 360S? Very well, I'll recommend staying with the tried and true. The difference between the original 360 and the 360 S and E models is that the S and E models don't have the CPU overheat, lose connection, and cause the system to no longer function. The S and E models are also sightly smaller and use less power, and all S and E models have HDMI ports while some older 360s do not.
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Aug 8, 2017 18:34
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Okay this is a really dumb question but are there chance of instability if I run dual monitors, each with their own refresh rate? I have them set up with my 120HZ ASUS display in front of me with my keyboard and mouse for some games, and I just spin my chair to the left and prop my feet up to watch videos or play games with a controller on my 60hz Samsung TV. I never spread anything across displays, most I do is have text websites like SA on my computer monitor so I don't hurt my neck typing and looking, and youtube on my TV. But if I'm playing a game the other monitor might only have discord or a chrome window open.
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Aug 8, 2017 20:47
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Ularg posted:Okay this is a really dumb question but are there chance of instability if I run dual monitors, each with their own refresh rate? I have them set up with my 120HZ ASUS display in front of me with my keyboard and mouse for some games, and I just spin my chair to the left and prop my feet up to watch videos or play games with a controller on my 60hz Samsung TV. I never spread anything across displays, most I do is have text websites like SA on my computer monitor so I don't hurt my neck typing and looking, and youtube on my TV. But if I'm playing a game the other monitor might only have discord or a chrome window open. No, I have one at 96hz and one at 60hz and it's been fine for a year or so.
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Aug 8, 2017 21:35
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My PSU just crapped out (Seasonic G 550), so I bought a "don't think" option from the parts megathread - Corsair RM550x as a replacement. My question comes from attaching the power cables to my GPU, a Radeon R290 -- It requires a 6 and 8 pin connection. Previously I had these running on separate cables, however with the less connectors available on the PSU side of things, I can only attach it with what I think is an 8Pin to Dual PCI-E 6+2Pin Splitter Cable. Similar to the pic below: Is this OK, powering a graphics card through one cable? I assume that this is exactly what that cable is for, but also I don't want my house to burn down on an assumption.
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Aug 9, 2017 03:49
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Noxin of Shame posted:My PSU just crapped out (Seasonic G 550), so I bought a "don't think" option from the parts megathread - Corsair RM550x as a replacement. My question comes from attaching the power cables to my GPU, a Radeon R290 -- It requires a 6 and 8 pin connection. Previously I had these running on separate cables, however with the less connectors available on the PSU side of things, I can only attach it with what I think is an 8Pin to Dual PCI-E 6+2Pin Splitter Cable. Similar to the pic below: Yeah, the one cable is fine. They won't include it if your power supply can't support it. I forget the exact numbers but I believe one of those cables can handle up to 300 Watts or so. It's the same with the extra 2 pins to adapt it from a 6 pin to an 8 pin connector, they won't include them if it can't handle the power.
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Aug 9, 2017 08:05
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Perfect, thank you for putting my mind at ease
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Aug 9, 2017 09:42
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hey goons. what's a good quality cheapish option for headphones with attached mic? usb for preference I guess.
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Aug 15, 2017 09:06
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Wife enjoys her SteelSeries Siberia v3 Prism Gaming Headset quite a bit, hasn't broken yet and she uses it daily and has been doing so for almost 2 years. It's USB.
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Aug 15, 2017 20:05
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sebmojo posted:hey goons. what's a good quality cheapish option for headphones with attached mic? usb for preference I guess. I've never been satisfied with "gaming" headsets, they are mostly build like crap compared to real gear. Curveball option: Superlux HD668B and an add-on mic (find an Antlion ModMic knockoff) Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Aug 15, 2017 |
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Aug 15, 2017 20:34
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Personally I'd use a standalone mic and in ear earphones, but I don't really do much VOIP stuff any more from the computer.
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Aug 15, 2017 20:43
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Is there a good wireless headset with a mic, in the low hundreds budget range? For use during confcalls, mainly (I want to walk around during a call, hence wireless). So far, I have tried Logitech G930, which is okay but it had driver issues for like two years after release so it was unusable for quite a long while (auto-shutdown triggering every 20 minutes even when active) and had a pretty crappy mic. I loved the large size of the headset, though. Sound Blaster Omega Wireless was slightly better driver-wise and mic-quality-wise but had ridiculous construction flaws (plastic clackclackclackclackclack due to moving my jaw when, you know, speaking) and had the mic actually pick up the output audio from the headphones. They were also too small for my head. There seem to be plenty of wired options but when it comes to wireless all I find are "gamer headsets" which are just cheap components made up in glossy plastic. Others look promising but lack a mic. I would appreciate recommendations for any actual good wireless products!
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Aug 15, 2017 21:00
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EssOEss posted:Is there a good wireless headset with a mic, in the low hundreds budget range? For use during confcalls, mainly (I want to walk around during a call, hence wireless). I've been pretty happy with Plantronics .Audio 995. Mic seems to pretty good. My biggest problem with it was that you can't use it while it's charging and didn't have auto-shutdown. So if I forgot to turn it off it would be out of charge the next morning.
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Aug 15, 2017 23:03
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Question: I'm going to put together a ryzen system with a coolemermaster hyper 212 evo heatsink/cooler. I recently bought Noctua NT-H1 thermal paste. I plan on putting a small dot of the paste in the center of the CPU and spreading it around with a finger wrapped in a ziplock bag to get the thinnest spread i can possibly get. Is this a decent method of applying thermal paste? I read about this method elsewhere.
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Aug 16, 2017 17:30
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Mister Fister posted:Question: I'm going to put together a ryzen system with a coolemermaster hyper 212 evo heatsink/cooler. I recently bought Noctua NT-H1 thermal paste. It's a decent method for getting air bubbles trapped in there that'll act like insulators. Just leave the drop (sized 1.5 grains of rice or so) in the middle and put the heatsink on. The clamping force will spread the paste. If you need to clean off old stuff, use some coffee filters or special lint-free paper and some rubbing alcohol.
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Aug 16, 2017 18:29
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Geemer posted:It's a decent method for getting air bubbles trapped in there that'll act like insulators. Just leave the drop (sized 1.5 grains of rice or so) in the middle and put the heatsink on. The clamping force will spread the paste. Ok thanks!
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Aug 16, 2017 18:34
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I've got an ASUS X99-M WS motherboard running in a system for a year now, and shamefully, I've never been able to get myself to set the DDR4 RAM I got with it to the 3000 MHz speed it's designed for instead of the base 2133 MHz or whatever. The problem is, on top of me not being into overclocking (very lengthy jobs where an error would be bad) whenever I go into the BIOS/UEFI to change this setting, if I hit the "XMP" setting to automatically set clock speeds on the RAM, it just futzes with all the CPU settings for some reason like changing the Base CLK, setting something to "SYNC ALL CORES", and changing the turbo speed on the CPU. And since I'm a timid person to start with, and really can't risk breaking this system, I've always hit "Discard Changes and Exit" and swore to get back to it later. What information should I get off the RAM packaging and description to try to do it manually to bypass my motherboard's rich array of terrible ideas (none of which fill me with confidence due to the entire manual reading like a bad translation in places, and one BIOS option regarding UEFI/legacy boot doing the exact opposite of what it says) and set the RAM manually to the right speed? Is there a signficant chance of something going wrong if I do it wrong?
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Aug 18, 2017 10:35
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Nothing's going to go super wrong, it's just going to not work as well. My Strix 270E did the same thing when I applied the XMP profile, and the trick is to just turn all of that extra stuff off. XMP doesn't need the base clock, turbo clock, or core boost settings changed. ASUS' software is just stupid. And if you don't, it just won't work as well as a manual overclock/be not as power efficient with the stupid core boost settings. Applying the XMP profile if it's stable is much easier and less of a hassle than overclocking the RAM manually.
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Aug 18, 2017 12:18
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