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PageMaster
Nov 4, 2009

InitialDave posted:

Are they all the same model/spec? Normally, when I see only certain models have the metal stuff, it's because there's something kicking out more heat, like a different turbo setup.

For example, that looks like a 2.0 TFSI engine, and I believe there are two versions, one of which has about 30% more power than the other.

All the engines I've looked at (mine included) are the 2.0 TFSI. There is an Ultra model with a focus on fuel efficiency, but i haven't ever seen any of those. The S4 also uses the metal stuff and has the more powerful engine, so maybe they just started using that material in the A4 as well so they could use the same parts between all models?

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randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

BetterToRuleInHell posted:



Best shot I could get

e: the red mechanism is the default position. I can slide it up but it doesn't seem to make a difference, the connector is still firmly in place

I'm not sure on Ford, but other cars I've owned that had a slider like that still required squeezing the plug or inserting a screwdriver to release it. Basically that slider is there to make drat sure that plug isn't going anywhere without someone really trying to remove it.

Pull the slider up, and you'll probably find a tab that needs to be depressed - either by hand or with a small flathead screwdriver (it'll be in the middle) either way).

e: is there a slider on the other side too? if so, probably the same deal.

Lord Ludikrous
Jun 7, 2008

Enjoy your tea...

Has my tyre had it?

Car is a 2015 BMW 118i F20 LCI, the tyre in question is a Pirelli P Zero runflat 225/40 R18. The car has done over 30k miles and to my knowledge these are the original front tyres from new.

I noticed the other day that the rim protection layer sticks out a bit more at one section compared to the rest. It's only visible from certain angles and I'm unsure if it's just the way the protector rim has been moulded or if the sidewall has a slight bulge in it. Sorry for the image size, I'm phone posting.

The affected area is just to the left of the star.




BoyBlunder
Sep 17, 2008
This looks fine to me :confused:

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001

big crush on Chad OMG posted:

How long is it going to sit? Decent tires plus jackstands is probably a better bet if it's not parked for a long time.

Its more that I am giving it away to family, and its going to need new tires to be inspected.
Its going to the vacation home in Hawaii, and will be driven for 3 weeks a year, around the island.

A problem with buying cars no one has is you can't get people to buy your unicorn when you are done with it.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~
Who is our local SW20 expert? Im starting to put together a rough idea of a MR2 project...turbo K24 + e53 trans. No idea if anyone here has any good ideas regarding this swap, I know its been done before.

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008






I'm more of a WD40 expert.

spog
Aug 7, 2004

It's your own bloody fault.
I'm more of a 420 expert.



(I have no idea what that means)

spog fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Aug 18, 2017

lol internet.
Sep 4, 2007
the internet makes you stupid
For a coolant flush which probably has never been done on 140k miles. Should I just use distilled water, distilled water with vinegar, or one of those Peak Super Cleaner + Flush products to clean out the radiator/system?

MrYenko
Jun 18, 2012

#2 isn't ALWAYS bad...

lol internet. posted:

For a coolant flush which probably has never been done on 140k miles. Should I just use distilled water, distilled water with vinegar, or one of those Peak Super Cleaner + Flush products to clean out the radiator/system?

A hose, generally.

I mean, the last flush you can do with distilled and/or a cleaner if you like, but just getting all the crud and old coolant out generally takes a few cycles.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

lol internet. posted:

For a coolant flush which probably has never been done on 140k miles. Should I just use distilled water, distilled water with vinegar, or one of those Peak Super Cleaner + Flush products to clean out the radiator/system?

I would go with the Super Cleaner. There's enough pre-existing corrosion that distilled water isn't going to make any difference and vinegar will directly react with exposed metal.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





BoyBlunder posted:

This looks fine to me :confused:

Yeah, I wouldn't worry too much. Do the other tires show a similar bulge anywhere?

With that said, it also looks like those tires are about done on treadwear.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.

Ludicro posted:

Has my tyre had it?



IOwnCalculus posted:

Yeah, I wouldn't worry too much. Do the other tires show a similar bulge anywhere?

With that said, it also looks like those tires are about done on treadwear.
Welllllll... I wouldn't expect to see any bulge in a tyre sidewall. Plus I don't like runflats, and you've had 30k out of them, so I'd swap them.


I can't remember, are you in the UK? Mate just (this afternoon) got a set of 4 225/40R18 Dunlops for £350 all in.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





To me it looks a bit like one of these "typical" deviations, but I suppose it is bulging out instead of indented in: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=32

`Nemesis
Dec 30, 2000

railroad graffiti

Ludicro posted:

Has my tyre had it?

Car is a 2015 BMW 118i F20 LCI, the tyre in question is a Pirelli P Zero runflat 225/40 R18. The car has done over 30k miles and to my knowledge these are the original front tyres from new.

I noticed the other day that the rim protection layer sticks out a bit more at one section compared to the rest. It's only visible from certain angles and I'm unsure if it's just the way the protector rim has been moulded or if the sidewall has a slight bulge in it. Sorry for the image size, I'm phone posting.

The affected area is just to the left of the star.






Bulge doesn't look concerning, but your tires look pretty worn, you should measure the remaining tread to verify.

Are you rotating the tires regularly?

Ideal Paradigm
Aug 7, 2005
Trouble at the old mill
Is it better to buy new, used, or certified pre-owned if you want to buy the car and then maintain it and drive it until it breaks?

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Ideal Paradigm posted:

Is it better to buy new, used, or certified pre-owned if you want to buy the car and then maintain it and drive it until it breaks?

IMO it doesn't make much difference. Amortized over the life of the car, the up-front cost differential shrinks to insignificance - but a bit of depreciation can make a big difference with some cars.

I prefer to buy new, both to get exactly what I want with the most up-to-date tech, and also to ensure that I will be the sole contributor to its maintenance history. I don't trust previous owners.

Others around here prefer to go used - either private sale or CPO. They can make their own cases.

Godholio
Aug 28, 2002

Does a bear split in the woods near Zheleznogorsk?
^That's my line of thinking. If I were buying appliances that I intended to sell/trade in every 3-5 years that might be different. But I tend to keep them much longer, and I sure as hell don't trust previous owners. Got burned on the first used car I ever bought.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Deteriorata posted:

IMO it doesn't make much difference. Amortized over the life of the car, the up-front cost differential shrinks to insignificance - but a bit of depreciation can make a big difference with some cars.

The last line here is the most important. If you buy a new, low end trim of an extremely popular vehicle, you will generally see very low depreciation in the first few years. So your savings by buying used can end up being quite low. Doubly so if you are taking advantage of manufacturer subsidized financing, like 0.9%, that you'd never see on a used car.

On the other hand, higher trims and higher end vehicles will usually see very significant depreciation up front. If buying a two year old car means you drive it for eight years instead of ten, but you save 40% on the purchase price, you're still coming out ahead.

These factors vary heavily based on what you're buying, what it costs to maintain as it ages, and even the economy as a whole.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
Anyone replaced a steering rack on an EM1 Civic? It looks like I can get away without an alignment if I reuse both full tie rods. I found one in stock and I'd like to get it done tomorrow.

BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 06:00 on Aug 19, 2017

Lord Ludikrous
Jun 7, 2008

Enjoy your tea...

IOwnCalculus posted:

Yeah, I wouldn't worry too much. Do the other tires show a similar bulge anywhere?

With that said, it also looks like those tires are about done on treadwear.

Can't see a similar bulge on the other tyres, but it's hard to say as it took me this long to notice this one. I did look at some old photos and can confirm this deformation has been there since since at least the end of March, and doesn't appear to have gotten any larger in that time. It's also had an inspection at BMW last week and they didn't say anything about it.

The outer edges of the tyre have worn more than the middle, looks like I was running the tyre a bit under inflated for too long. The centre three quarters have 3mm of tread left.

InitialDave posted:

Welllllll... I wouldn't expect to see any bulge in a tyre sidewall. Plus I don't like runflats, and you've had 30k out of them, so I'd swap them.


I can't remember, are you in the UK? Mate just (this afternoon) got a set of 4 225/40R18 Dunlops for £350 all in.

Yeah I'm in the UK, where did he get those? I'm looking at £300 from black circles for a set of new runflat P Zeroes. Cheaper than the £350 I had to fork out to get the rears done.

`Nemesis posted:

Bulge doesn't look concerning, but your tires look pretty worn, you should measure the remaining tread to verify.

Are you rotating the tires regularly?

The tyre has worn unevenly and the outer edges are worse than the rest, the centre three quarters still have 3mm left. I've sorted out the under inflation problem.

No rotations can be done as the fronts are different to the rears. The fronts are 225/40/R18 and the rears are 245/35/R18. The rears were replaced at 2mm back in April after 24k miles.

Seems the general consensus is I'm not in immediate danger but should aim to replace the tyres sooner rather than later. I get paid Monday so will probably get them done in the week at some point. Cheers guys.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.

Ludicro posted:

Yeah I'm in the UK, where did he get those? I'm looking at £300 from black circles for a set of new runflat P Zeroes. Cheaper than the £350 I had to fork out to get the rears done.
Formula One, I believe by making use of their price match promise against National Tyres, with National having 5% off the Dunlops at the time.

However, if you already have new tyres on the rear, it may be better to get the same tyres for the front, a front/rear difference might produce slight handling oddities if different brands have different characteristics.

Ideal Paradigm
Aug 7, 2005
Trouble at the old mill

Deteriorata posted:

IMO it doesn't make much difference. Amortized over the life of the car, the up-front cost differential shrinks to insignificance - but a bit of depreciation can make a big difference with some cars.

I prefer to buy new, both to get exactly what I want with the most up-to-date tech, and also to ensure that I will be the sole contributor to its maintenance history. I don't trust previous owners.

Others around here prefer to go used - either private sale or CPO. They can make their own cases.

I live in a Salt Belt state, so buying used concerns me slightly.

I have read that most newer cars from 2010 and newer have undercarriage corrosion coating applied to them if they're sold in the salt belt, so CPO seems like it could be an option simply because they would be checking for rust. However, I don't how much of an impact 2-3 years of salt exposure would affect a car 10-15 years later, since it could just not be observable at the time the CPO inspection is performed.

Living in a Salt Belt state, is it better to just buy used out of state like with Carmax and have the car shipped, or buy new? Or does CPO still seem like a viable option to save a little bit of money on the first few years of depreciation?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





CPO is just a fancy name for what is typically a manufacturer backed warranty. The inspection is largely meaningless and not likely any different from the one they do on every trade / auction purchase.

BetterToRuleInHell
Jul 2, 2007

Touch my mask top
Get the chop chop

Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:

I'm not sure on Ford, but other cars I've owned that had a slider like that still required squeezing the plug or inserting a screwdriver to release it. Basically that slider is there to make drat sure that plug isn't going anywhere without someone really trying to remove it.

Pull the slider up, and you'll probably find a tab that needs to be depressed - either by hand or with a small flathead screwdriver (it'll be in the middle) either way).
,
e: is there a slider on the other side too? if so, probably the same deal.

Thanks for the input -- I was hoping not to, but I'm probably going to have to disconnect the accelerator pedal to get better access to the connector in question. Trying to get at it is difficult in the leg space and the fact that the car sits low.

DogonCrook
Apr 24, 2016

I think my 20 years as hurricane chaser might be a little relevant ive been through more hurricanws than moat shiitty newscasters

InitialDave posted:

Formula One, I believe by making use of their price match promise against National Tyres, with National having 5% off the Dunlops at the time.

However, if you already have new tyres on the rear, it may be better to get the same tyres for the front, a front/rear difference might produce slight handling oddities if different brands have different characteristics.

Yeah another thing to consider going with two at a time is those tires might have sat on a shelf for 5 years at a different store they may be brand new. I had a discount tire go to put some tires on and they came back and said they had to order more because they realised the tires had sat on a shelf for so long they were bunk.

Craiglen
Sep 2, 2006
2005 Peugeot 206, manual transmission, 1.2 litre engine, 72000 km.

I get an intermittent P0300 fault. Once every 500 km or so, the car shudders and the check engine light comes on. The check engine light will go off again on its own after another 100km or so. This repeats every few weeks. When the shuddering occurs, I can fix it by turning the engine off and restarting. Tends to occur most often when at cruise speeds in 4th or 5th gear.

Drives completely fine otherwise. I've had the coil pack replaced, no change. Any ideas?

MrYenko
Jun 18, 2012

#2 isn't ALWAYS bad...

Plugs, plug wires?

Proper gaps on the plugs?

autism ZX spectrum
Feb 8, 2007

by Lowtax
Fun Shoe
I googled it and apparently there's a problem with the OEM coil packs causing high rates of failure. Internet folk have suggested replacing the coils with Bougicord-Electrofil brand ones.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

My brother just replaced the brake pads on his '98 Civic, and now there's a lot less pedal travel. The brakes weren't bled, just some new fluid was added to the reservoir. Is this normal?

I thought calipers adjusted themselves, so the pads don't have to move more as they wear. Not urgent, just curious.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
It's possible there was a little air in the system, and pushing the pistons back to get the new pads in has burped it out.

If you messed with the rear brakes, that could have changed something with the handbrake adjustment, and taken up previous excessive slack.

Ideal Paradigm
Aug 7, 2005
Trouble at the old mill
How often does Honda offer 0.9% financing on New Honda Civics? It seems like they offer it multiple times throughout the year, but I'm not completely sure about that.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Hey sparkplug engineer goon. I can't find the posts, but you mentioned that if your plugs have shiny threads, then don't bother using anti-seize on them?
Only if they have non-shiny threads?

E: Nevermind, found posts.

wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 14:10 on Aug 21, 2017

totalnewbie
Nov 13, 2005

I was born and raised in China, lived in Japan, and now hold a US passport.

I am wrong in every way, all the damn time.

Ask me about my tattoos.
Yes - the only spark plugs that need anti-seize are spark plugs that are BLACK. If they're not black (and instead look silver/shiny/metallic), it's recommended that you don't put anti-seize on them.

Myrmidongs
Oct 26, 2010

I have a 2016 Subaru Impreza Hatchback with a 7" headunit (no navigation) that has recently decided to misbehave. The gracenote metadata that comes with radio streams is stuck on a few stations. For example, the last two weeks, one of my stations is stuck showing "Sublime - Smoke Two Joints" as the song playing. I followed some instructions, downloaded a USB update for the headunit and ran through that. The update was actually still the current version, and by the time all was said and done, it rebooted and I was still greeted with the same thing. Is there anything I can do other than talk to the dealer at this point?

Memento
Aug 25, 2009


Bleak Gremlin
2008 Ford Focus 2.0L Duratec, auto trans, BLACK. Had the CEL come on on Friday, took it to the Ford dealership a little way away from our place but they were so snowed under they couldn't spare someone to pull the codes. I bought an OBD II code reader off ebay (been meaning to for a while) which came today and I got the dreaded P0400 - EGR Flow. Googled around the place a bit, and it seems like this is a thing that tons of engines in this family have that almost never actually indicates a hosed EGR valve.

The light went off early Saturday morning after some regular, careful driving. I'm going to pull the EGR valve, clean it up with some carb cleaner and put it back on, anything else I should do?

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Myrmidongs posted:

I have a 2016 Subaru Impreza Hatchback with a 7" headunit (no navigation) that has recently decided to misbehave. The gracenote metadata that comes with radio streams is stuck on a few stations. For example, the last two weeks, one of my stations is stuck showing "Sublime - Smoke Two Joints" as the song playing. I followed some instructions, downloaded a USB update for the headunit and ran through that. The update was actually still the current version, and by the time all was said and done, it rebooted and I was still greeted with the same thing. Is there anything I can do other than talk to the dealer at this point?

Have you tried unhooking the battery?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Memento posted:

2008 Ford Focus 2.0L Duratec, auto trans, BLACK. Had the CEL come on on Friday, took it to the Ford dealership a little way away from our place but they were so snowed under they couldn't spare someone to pull the codes. I bought an OBD II code reader off ebay (been meaning to for a while) which came today and I got the dreaded P0400 - EGR Flow. Googled around the place a bit, and it seems like this is a thing that tons of engines in this family have that almost never actually indicates a hosed EGR valve.

The light went off early Saturday morning after some regular, careful driving. I'm going to pull the EGR valve, clean it up with some carb cleaner and put it back on, anything else I should do?

Granted, mine was the turbo version of that (2007 Mazdaspeed3), but I had good luck with cleaning the EGR. It was just a shitload of work to get at it in that car.

Tunicate
May 15, 2012

Myrmidongs posted:

I have a 2016 Subaru Impreza Hatchback with a 7" headunit (no navigation) that has recently decided to misbehave. The gracenote metadata that comes with radio streams is stuck on a few stations. For example, the last two weeks, one of my stations is stuck showing "Sublime - Smoke Two Joints" as the song playing. I followed some instructions, downloaded a USB update for the headunit and ran through that. The update was actually still the current version, and by the time all was said and done, it rebooted and I was still greeted with the same thing. Is there anything I can do other than talk to the dealer at this point?

That's not a malfunction, it's a request. Shove some weed in the gas tank.

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tactlessbastard
Feb 4, 2001

Godspeed, post
Fun Shoe

Tunicate posted:

That's not a malfunction, it's a request. Shove some weed in the gas tank.

It's a demand!

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