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I made a small quilt with a horse on it. 2017-1 by Tom Rintjema, on Flickr 2017-2 by Tom Rintjema, on Flickr My Grandmother has been making quilts for a long time and I help her out now and then. My Mom has always made stuff but mostly clothes, costumes. Anyway, she got a long arm sewing machine for doing quilts so I thought I'd make one too. It's denim and cotton. I really don't know much of anything to be honest.
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# ? Apr 10, 2017 02:06 |
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# ? Mar 29, 2024 10:27 |
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Looks pretty sweet. Also I'm jealous of your quilting granny and longarm access
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# ? Apr 10, 2017 04:15 |
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Thanks. I'm experimenting making patters for the quilts. Here is the horse pattern: I haven't sewn them yet, but I made a pattern for a tree: And birds:
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# ? Apr 10, 2017 14:55 |
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That horse quilt is gorgeous! Though I am skeptical of the denim, haha. I would also love to see the end result of that bird pattern.
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# ? Apr 10, 2017 17:11 |
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Horse quilt is really great. How do you go from pattern to quilt?
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# ? Apr 10, 2017 17:15 |
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It's a robot. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1lrXlVjBVHs You can do it by hand and I've done a bunch of that too. I'm the only one strong enough to stand at the machine and operate it manually. My Grandmother is too old and my Mom is recovering from a motorcycle accident. The machine came with a bunch of patterns. Some are meant as blocks and some are meant to repeat over the quilt. I used a long complicated chain of software to go from bitmap image to wiggly line vector graphic I can turn into code for the machine. I used to program CNC machines that cut wood so this is right up my alley. The denim isn't the hard thick kind, it's very thin and soft.
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# ? Apr 10, 2017 17:39 |
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Really cool, looks like fun.
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# ? Apr 10, 2017 17:48 |
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cloudy posted:That horse quilt is gorgeous! Though I am skeptical of the denim, haha. I would also love to see the end result of that bird pattern. Denim quilts are totally a thing. You can also get lighter weights then what goes into pants if you're just buying yardage.
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# ? Apr 10, 2017 19:07 |
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I'm really not looking forward to summer being a million degrees this year. Can you recommend any summer patterns for a relative beginner? I'd love any other tips -- the coolest kinds of fabric, where to source them, which are appropriate for which pieces, etc. I'm in NYC if it helps. My main problem with RTW is that I need office-appropriate stuff: top/dress sleeves either near the elbow, or like a cami intended to be worn with a cardigan, and dress/skirt length past the knee. I just want to avoid death by heat stroke!
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# ? May 21, 2017 22:04 |
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Anne Whateley posted:I'm really not looking forward to summer being a million degrees this year. Can you recommend any summer patterns for a relative beginner? I'd love any other tips -- the coolest kinds of fabric, where to source them, which are appropriate for which pieces, etc. I'm in NYC if it helps. Breathable fabrics are going to be cotton, linen, hemp, and rayon, and anything loose is going to be cooler even if it covers a lot. Don't know how formal your job is, but my coworkers have all been going crazy over these 100 Acts of Sewing patterns which are all pretty simple and flowy.
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# ? May 22, 2017 16:36 |
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Does anyone have any preferred sites/blogs/guides for tailoring off-the-rack clothes? I'm not a total novice, but the clearer the better.
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# ? Jun 30, 2017 16:26 |
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Does anyone know where to buy stretch lace? Not stretch lace trim, but the stuff that's ~12 inches across? I've had a terrible time finding it. I'm in Seattle, but I'd accept online stores that ship here. E: fantastic, thanks! legendof fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Jul 6, 2017 |
# ? Jul 6, 2017 04:32 |
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legendof posted:Does anyone know where to buy stretch lace? Not stretch lace trim, but the stuff that's ~12 inches across? I've had a terrible time finding it. I'm in Seattle, but I'd accept online stores that ship here. fabricdirect.com has stretch lace, and it's on sale right now!
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# ? Jul 6, 2017 06:14 |
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Princess Tutu posted:fabricdirect.com has stretch lace, and it's on sale right now! Dropping back in to recommend that people avoid this site - I ordered from them on the 6th and my order still hasn't shipped, and they're ignoring my emails and phone calls. I'm not sure if I've been scammed or what exactly. E: update August 3: they claim my order was lost in the mail and that they've shipped a new one but won't give me a tracking number. legendof fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Aug 3, 2017 |
# ? Jul 24, 2017 18:46 |
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Looking to sew more than I do currently and the wife is looking to move up into more serious effort too. We are looking at upgrading our machine. Because I'm crazy I'm looking a industrial straight stitch. Maybe a juki-8700. I don't mind spending money on a real machine. I've never been the type to tip toe into a hobby and then have to spend more money buying a better machine. Anyone here running a juki? Read good things about it. I like that it's essentially all metal and your industrial stuff is all interchangeable. They all look to really be basically the same machines made in China mostly with different brand names stamped on the front. While poking for suppliers I came across gold star tools. Anyone use them or their brand of machines? They have what looks to be a knockoff juki with some electronic controls that would be nice for not much more. Obviously concerned about the electronics going out and bricking the machine but a few bucks more for autotrim and backtack looks appealing. New-tech is their line. Right now I usually use an old singer 327k? I believe. All metal one from 1967. Wife uses a recent brother brand one meant for quilting. We also recently scored a bablock evolve 8 thread serger for $100 at an estate sale. The wife does general fashion stuff. I mostly sew to make ultralight hiking gear for myself. We've recently started using them for cosplay stuff as well. We go to one of the cons every year.
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# ? Aug 23, 2017 21:45 |
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It's a great machine, their industrial stuff is made in Japan not China so the quality is higher than Chinese made stuff. I'm not sure what else to add to that, if you use straight stitch now and want to upgrade then you are on the right path My new sewing room, which has my bed in it but beggars can't be choosers. The tables and wardrobe all have my sewing stuff in them. It's currently in Quilting configuration, I have a huge fold out table to go at right angles for marking out patterns. Don't be tempted to get those for your sewing machine to go on btw, they start to bounce when the machine is on. I learned this the hard way.
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# ? Aug 24, 2017 08:43 |
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That's why you get a proper table that the sewing machine sets into. Then it just vibrates like crazy instead.
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# ? Aug 24, 2017 10:06 |
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what type of material would you use for padding on shoulder straps, like a backpack?
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# ? Aug 26, 2017 06:16 |
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Some kind of batting or polyfill encased in the durable textile of your choice?
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# ? Aug 26, 2017 06:31 |
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I add to my friend goon's suggestion with the advice that you secure your wadding/battling in place with some sort of adhesive before sewing, I favour craft spray glue. It is the good kind of cheating.
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# ? Aug 26, 2017 08:49 |
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I used two layers of 1/8 spacer mesh and a layer of material in between for a bit more body for the stitches to bite into. Just finished it so haven't broken it in yet. Might be a bit thin, not sure. Keep in mind my base weight though is like 13 or 14 lbs so I shouldn't need beefy padding.
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# ? Aug 28, 2017 00:51 |
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45 ACP CURES NAZIS posted:what type of material would you use for padding on shoulder straps, like a backpack? Closed cell foam. You can get it in sheets, and it doesn't get beaten down the way batting does.
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# ? Aug 28, 2017 05:15 |
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Has anyone rehabbed a 1970s (ish?) Husqvarna whose brain I can pick? As far as I can tell the insides are gummed up, works veeeeery slowly on low gear and no movement in the higher gear. It's a model 6430 I picked up from a thrift shop. I either got a very cheap workhorse of a sewing machine or quite expensive, but very effective doorstop.
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# ? Aug 29, 2017 17:19 |
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Have you tore it open yet? Probably full of cat hair and lint. My old singer was. Looks like that one is an all metal one. I opened mine up and liberally sprayed everything down with PB Blaster to clear any gummy residue. Wear a respirator if you do. Also your machine may smell of kerosene for a while. It'll eat up gunk and leaves a bit of machine oil behind. Follow-up with the usual oil points and see if it fixes it being sticky. Cleared all the hesitation out of my thrift store machine.
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# ? Aug 29, 2017 18:32 |
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I opened it up, its actually really clean lint-wise, but I can feel some tacky/old oil. At the thrift shop they said I needed to replace the drive belt, but I think a cleaning will do because of the low/high gear weirdness. I'll give cleaning it out a go and get back to the thread. I am inordinately excited about fixing it, but also scared, just have to remember it's not working now anyway.
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# ? Aug 29, 2017 19:20 |
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Check the belt too. My motor needed a new belt and the tension to be increased just a bit. The motor bolts keeping it in place had loosened up and the belt would slip here and there.
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# ? Aug 29, 2017 20:38 |
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there wolf posted:That's why you get a proper table that the sewing machine sets into. Then it just vibrates like crazy instead. I super lucked out several months ago and found a sewing desk in the garbage room at my apartment complex. It's a bit on the smaller side, but it's sturdy wood construction and fits perfectly in my tiny-rear end apartment. Still haven't managed to get the machine mounted in there, but just having dedicated drawers for storing thread and machine parts has been a huge blessing.
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# ? Aug 30, 2017 01:11 |
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What does massively help if you can't get a proper sewing desk is a some form of armless chair that goes up and down. I have a desk chair on rollers for scooting up and down on and now a leather barstool with a high back for the machines. I hate my overlocker. One of the more basic yet metal bodied singer ones. Used it for about a year and the chuffing thing's tensions were always off and it kept snapping the lower threads. I kind of got it working in one three thread mode but the snapping remained. Lost the manual in the house move and googled it. Imagine the string of expletives not heard outside of a dockyard that came pouring out of my mouth when I discovered that Singer had updated the manual, to include a tiny little box at the end of the threading instructions because they had missed a step. Turns out you have to ignore what the paper manual says when it tells you to thread the upper threads first. Now you do them last, and you have to manually make sure they have looped round the long thin thing or thread them again and again until they do. Ffffffffffffffffff
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# ? Aug 30, 2017 08:47 |
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MoldyFrog posted:Have you tore it open yet? Probably full of cat hair and lint. My old singer was. Looks like that one is an all metal one. I opened mine up and liberally sprayed everything down with PB Blaster to clear any gummy residue. Wear a respirator if you do. Also your machine may smell of kerosene for a while. Be careful with PB Blaster if you've got any plastic parts in your machine, because it can eat them up and/or weaken them. You should be able to clear the gunk with some sewing machine oil, or 3-in-1 oil, and working the gears back and forth. Of course, if you really want to get at it, get some non-chlorinated brake cleaner, and take it outside. Wear gloves, eye protection, respirator, etc. Then make sure you liberally oil everything with sewing machine oil after you clean all the gunk out. Of course, brake cleaner can have some negative effects with plastic as well.
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# ? Aug 30, 2017 15:29 |
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I'm trying to make a military chest rig (thing for holding magazines and grenades) but out of non military style materials like acid washed denim. Instead of shooting while wearing military dress up barbie I want to wear a plaid shirt and acid washed denim. What is a good material to use to reinforce the denim? I bought 1,000 Denier Cordura but I'm not sure if thats the best material. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011C5PJIE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 What is a good type of denim to use for rugged, thick outdoor use? My first run I'm just using jeans from goodwill both to practice sewing on and acid washing (I already hosed up and they're pretty much white) but my second run I'm going to buy denim. What is the stretchy material in the image below called? Also does anyone have a pattern for how to sew a more 3d pocket/pouch like what is in the image? https://www.frogpro.it/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/IMG_3867.jpg the end result is going to look like this except the grenade pockets will be replaced with pockets cut from blue jeans http://i.imgur.com/FNU0B1y.png PookBear fucked around with this message at 17:39 on Aug 30, 2017 |
# ? Aug 30, 2017 17:36 |
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Be careful with PB Blaster if you've got any plastic parts in your machine, because it can eat them up and/or weaken them. Yes this. Should have mentioned it. Most of these cleaners will go after plastic and other bits. PB Blaster, pure kero, Kroil, brake/carb cleaner and similar. Protect the motor and wiring and any decals you want to keep existing. Read a few horror stories of people taking off antique singer decals and eating their fancy gold trim.
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# ? Aug 30, 2017 17:59 |
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Yeah, any of those cleaners/degreasers/thread strippers will eat anything that is petroleum based at all. Plastic, rubber, latex, Bakelite if you're weird and/or across the sea, adhesives, certain chrome finishes I think. A lot of them work overnight too so a spot test for 10 min or so isn't long enough to know. E: and they will turbofuck the electronics
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# ? Aug 30, 2017 18:07 |
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Huh, ok. I picked up some sewing machine oil and had a really frustrating conversation with the lady at the sewing machine shop (yes, I realise you can do it better. No, I can't afford to pay you 90 euros to do it) I have decided a combination of heat (hairdryer, as per youtube) and oil, see how far I get before turning to more drastic option. I think the belt might need seeing to too, but first things first.
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# ? Aug 30, 2017 18:25 |
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Look up top near the main motor gears. Sometimes people use a heavier grease up there and it slowly breaks down and gathers dust making it real thick and gunky. If you do something stronger just don't bathe the thing or make a river and you'll be fine. My singer 327k is practically an all metal monster. I just sprayed lightly near the danger zones and more heavily near the all metal areas (lower linkages for example) keeping it away from the motor and what tiny bit of wires the thing has and it worked out. Paying only five bucks for that singer probably colored my vision but I wouldn't hesitate to do it again on a different or more expensive machine. Just use common sense to protect anything critical. MoldyFrog fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Aug 30, 2017 |
# ? Aug 30, 2017 19:15 |
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Is there a dedicated thread for plushies anymore? I'm trying to turn this crazy thing into a reproducible pattern and I have no idea where to start.
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# ? Sep 1, 2017 16:02 |
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RandomFerret posted:Is there a dedicated thread for plushies anymore? I'm trying to turn this crazy thing into a reproducible pattern and I have no idea where to start. I don't think so, the one I wa following slipped in to the archive. I follow this group on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/PlushArtistsUnited/
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# ? Sep 1, 2017 19:39 |
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I have a serger (the brother 1034d that everyone has) that's worth probably about $100. I tried to serge faux fur and broke a needle. When this happened, I also managed to mess up the timing somehow - it makes a metal on metal grinding noise, I think the upper looper is hitting something. Unfortunately, I can't find a place locally that does serger repairs for less than $120, usually much more. Is there anything I can do? It's not under warranty.
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# ? Sep 21, 2017 06:05 |
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I actually found really good video documentation of my machine on Youtube. Have you searched for the exact model there, and tried to re-adjust timing on your own? Also did you make sure to try and clean it out really well in case faux fur fibers are stuck all in the mechanism? (edit: just realized you said you only broke a needle so maybe this wouldn't be an issue for you. Just thinking about how my main issues always stem from thread getting caught under the bobbin case. Maybe a bit of needle got stuck somewhere?) cloudy fucked around with this message at 15:37 on Sep 21, 2017 |
# ? Sep 21, 2017 15:32 |
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legendof posted:I have a serger (the brother 1034d that everyone has) that's worth probably about $100. I tried to serge faux fur and broke a needle. When this happened, I also managed to mess up the timing somehow - it makes a metal on metal grinding noise, I think the upper looper is hitting something. Unfortunately, I can't find a place locally that does serger repairs for less than $120, usually much more. Is there anything I can do? It's not under warranty. You may try to join the 1034d facebook group and see if there is any help. You aren't likely to get a repair for less than $120
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# ? Oct 1, 2017 04:54 |
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# ? Mar 29, 2024 10:27 |
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I'm pretty new to sewing - I know how to set up and operate the machine and do some simple seams, but the first and only thing I've ever designed from the ground up is a dust cover for the sewing machine (it turned out OK I guess). I want to make a dust cover for my typewriter, but I'd appreciate some idiot-checking help to see if I'm on the right track. I have a table of parts taken from measurements of the typewriter, with everything rounded up to the nearest inch e.g. back: 16x6, top: 16x9, and so on. There's some plain muslin for the lining and ordinary broadcloth for the outside, plus some midweight fusible interfacing for stiffness. My idea is to build each panel - back, sides, front, two for the top - separately, with the lining, interfacing, and exterior, then sew the finished panels together into a sort of box shape. Will the interfacing be too stiff to properly sew and then fold into 90 degree corners? Should I iron the interfacing into each panel piece and then assemble the cover, or sew the panels into place and then iron once the whole thing's been finished? Should the adhesive side of the interfacing face the lining or the exterior? And are there any obvious problems that I'm overlooking? Thanks!
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# ? Oct 7, 2017 22:33 |