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That is something that is very dependent on your local laws and regulations. First thing is you'll want to make sure you're not in an HOA neighborhood, and if you do end up in an HOA, read it's rules and regulations because they'll probably disallow you building a garage. After that, look up your local zoning/permit office and ask them about it. If you're just building a normal, detached garage I doubt you'll have any trouble getting it approved, but you'll need a good set of blueprints/plans for them to approve you. And expect to deal with a lot of red tape. Totally doable project, just make sure you follow all the rules, because if you don't there will be issues if you ever decide to sell.
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Aug 27, 2017 02:56
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Yeah, as ^^ it depends. When we sold our last house, one of the people making an offer made it contingent on the ability to build a detached 2 car garage in the back yard. We gave them a copy of the RPR and they went to the city permit people who gave them an answer in minutes that they could. Seat Safety Switch posted:The Oil Lift stuff that they have at Can Tire has done really well for me in lifting oil stains from my ancient driveway, but so has Spray Nine.
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Aug 27, 2017 16:27
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It depends on where you are. Lots of places want an engineer, environmental impact assessment, zoning board, historic review, etc.
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Aug 27, 2017 17:29
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beep-beep car is go posted:My garage is from 48 and has the original concrete slab in it still. It's solid and not cracked but it's very very spalled. Like, marble size chunks spalled out from almost 80 upstate NY winters. Could...could I just pour a ton of that concrete self leveling stuff over it to fill the holes and make it smooth and nice again? Would I be able to park a car on it after? That might be an option, but I'd worry about the expansion contraction of the different products with the added stress of the weight of cars, especially at the entry point where it'd be thinnest (unless you removed that section and did all new material. It's worth talking to a concrete pro to see what your options are, but I wouldn't be surprised to find it's really expensive. I've got an original slab from '28 and while my climate isn't as bad as yours, mine has some similar issues. I decided to cover up rather than pursue replacement of concrete and bought rubber gym flooring from CL for a super nice finish. I don't have to sorry about salted winters though, so I'm able to keep it clean with much more ease than in your situation. Still, maybe check out the rubber diamond mats? That'd be washable and conform to the uneven surface. Mat_Drinks fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Aug 27, 2017 |
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Aug 27, 2017 17:39
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I am about to obtain quotes to have a detached garage built. I'm looking at 2 car 24x24ft. For financial as well as zoning reasons I really don't want to go to a larger size. What options should I be considering? What questions should I be asking for the quotes? I am planning on wood framed with vinyl or hardiboard type siding with a shingle roof (might go metal, thoughts?). Should I put in insulation if I'm not planning to heat or cool the space? How thick should the concrete be to support cars/light SUVs? Is there some strength calculator I can consult? Any garage door brands to prefer or avoid?
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Sep 8, 2017 15:24
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tangy yet delightful posted:I am about to obtain quotes to have a detached garage built. I'm looking at 2 car 24x24ft. For financial as well as zoning reasons I really don't want to go to a larger size. I understand wanting to save some money, but I think generally going bigger isn't necessarily proportionally more (i.e. a 24x24 might be $30k, but a 36x24 might be $35k - complete guesstimates, I Am Not A Contractor). But you said zoning/taxes so that's up for you to decide. tangy yet delightful posted:What options should I be considering? What questions should I be asking for the quotes? First you gotta figure out what you want to do with it. Just parking cars and nothing else? Cars and storage? A workshop? Lawn equipment? How many windows are you going to have, where should the man door go, etc. etc. If it's cost prohibitive bureaucratically for a bigger footprint, you could maybe do taller walls and/or storage trusses above to be able to get more vertical height out of it. Taller walls would be a marginal cost increase, storage trusses are more expensive than regular trusses but you could have a ton of storage space above if that's a priority to you. Ask about electric if you plan to have it out there. Not knowing what your lot looks like at all, you could pour a slab next to it for a "lean-to" style roof for extra storage or be enclosed in the future, etc. Lot's of stuff you could do. If you're into garages and stuff, check out garagejournal.com, lot's of people sharing their garage / shops on there. tangy yet delightful posted:I am planning on wood framed with vinyl or hardiboard type siding with a shingle roof (might go metal, thoughts?). Metal will probably be more expensive, and it might not match your existing structures. But it typically lasts forever. Probably doesn't really matter all that much, just do whatever matches your existing house if you care. tangy yet delightful posted:Should I put in insulation if I'm not planning to heat or cool the space? This can always be added later if necessary (assuming you're not planning on drywall or paneling on the interior walls), so nope. tangy yet delightful posted:How thick should the concrete be to support cars/light SUVs? Is there some strength calculator I can consult? I don't think you have to worry about specifying a concrete pour depth for just parking regular cars on it, I think most standard pours are around 4" or so. If you were going to do a lift you'd do deeper pours at the points where the lift would be mounting.
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Sep 8, 2017 16:08
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I would consider having a drain for the floor if you plan to wash stuff inside there. Pretty much the only time to put that in, obviously much harder after the fact. Dreese nailed about everything else I could think of. Plumbing also (if desired) is something to think about.
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Sep 8, 2017 16:15
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Go as big as your budget and laws allow. You'll never kick yourself for having too big a garage, but you certainly will for having one too small. It's also a tremendous bonus years from now if you sell. A garage seems nice and roomy when it's empty, but when you start putting your poo poo in it you'll wish you were larger. Consider a triple, even if you only park 2 cars in it (assuming you're able to). Even if you're not going to heat the garage right away (assuming you live somewhere where heat is something you would want), consider running the infrastructure needed for it if it's in your budget. Assuming you have gas, maybe run a power outlet, gas stub, low voltage wires and install an exhaust vent where you think you'd want to put a heater. When I was lift shopping, iirc 4.25"+ @ 3000psi reinforced concrete seemed to be the standard. Anything thicker/better all the better. Most garage pads/driveways as a matter of standard are about 5"+ where I live. If you have your eye on a certain lift, download the manual and read the installation instructions. Consider your ceiling heights if you plan to put in a lift. If you go nice and high you can even consider installing some additional storage racks at roof height for those big things you rarely use.. or heck I've seen some people even do a small mezzanine which is nice. A floor drain would kick all sorts of rear end and I would highly recommend one if you can, but I haven't lived in a municipality that would actually allow one in a new home garage build for many years now. Whatever you do, don't cheap out on the number of standard 115V wall outlets. Try and have one every 6 feet or so with extra near the workbench. Nothing worse than needing an extension cord in your own garage. Don't forget outside outlets either. Also running some cables for a security system/cameras or something isn't crazy before it gets buttoned up. Consider a 230V outlet if you can for a future welder or big compressor. If you are putting in garage door openers, make sure you have power outlets on the ceiling near where the opener unit goes and runs the cables for the photo sensors. Also, LIGHTS LIGHTS. Standard garage lighting is abysmal, like 2 screw in bulbs. You'll probably want at least 4x T8 per parking "bay" plus something dedicated over your workbench. The more the better, make your neighbours think you have a grow op in the garage. I'm personally not a huge window person for my garages. I see them as a security risk and insulation inefficiency. slidebite fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Sep 8, 2017 |
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Sep 8, 2017 17:07
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Watching this thread with great interest in any new build standalone garages. My ideal 5-10 year plan is I manage to buy a place with enough room for a standalone garage / shop, and if I can't find one that already has one built... I realize budgets on these are extremely variable but I can hardly even find any remote ideas on what it should cost to stand one up.
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Sep 8, 2017 17:32
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I would say $20K-$40K as a total spitball wouldn't be insane for a good size stand-alone, keeping in mind it could be done on the low side if you do most of the work (including concrete and prep - that's $$$) but also be much, much higher if you go big and contract out everything. Not sure about concrete and trade prices where you live obviously. e: typo slidebite fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Sep 8, 2017 |
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Sep 8, 2017 17:52
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I had always heard people complain that their garage was too small so when it came time to build our garage 10 years ago we decided that our 2 car garage was going to be 28 x 28. It works great to park 2 large suv's in and there is enough room for shelving on both walls and a large chest freezer and a workbench in the back, and 4 bikes and.... guess what? I wish I had built a bigger garage! Looking at building a house next year and my current garage plan is going to be an extra wide 3 car with an extra deep area and a permanent stairway to a storage loft over the garage. As soon as I get the house floor plan tidied up I'll post in this thread for help with the garage floorplan.
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Sep 8, 2017 18:11
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Modus Man posted:I had always heard people complain that their garage was too small so when it came time to build our garage 10 years ago we decided that our 2 car garage was going to be 28 x 28. It works great to park 2 large suv's in and there is enough room for shelving on both walls and a large chest freezer and a workbench in the back, and 4 bikes and.... guess what? I wish I had built a bigger garage! When I was looking at house plans, I really wanted to build a five stall, barn shaped carriage house, and just live above it. My relatives and friends all thought I was insane for not wanting a basement and harassed me until I gave up. I totally regret not sticking to my gut and getting the massive work space that would have afforded me. It still would have left me plenty of room to build the workshop in the back.
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Sep 8, 2017 18:33
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Local zoning laws plays a huge part in cheapness of a standalone garage. I just had a steel building put up, everything totalled up I think has been around $18k. I'm in the Seattle area so I got stuck with a pretty expensive concrete pad install due to the frost level and labor costs. The breakdown for me was roughly as follows: Building including install, $8200 Concrete pad, $6800 Insulation installed, $1400 Plywood interior, $560 1x4 insulation trussing, $300 electrical box, $300 I'm happy to help with any questions as I just went through the process. I'm no contractor or even much of a DIY'er, but I know a couple things I'd do different next time. For reference the shop is 22x20. Would have gone with a 25x25 but ran into set back issues and a surprise drainage easement
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Sep 8, 2017 18:44
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slidebite posted:A floor drain would kick all sorts of rear end and I would highly recommend one if you can, but I haven't lived in a municipality that would actually allow one in a new home garage build for many years now. Why is this?
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Sep 8, 2017 19:21
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Ohrmazd posted:Why is this? Too easy to drain hazardous materials into the watershed.
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Sep 8, 2017 19:58
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Probably because they don't want people to accidentally drain chemicals into the sewage system and whatnot. Edit: Oops, should have refreshed.
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Sep 8, 2017 20:28
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Well, getting deeper and deeper in the planning rabbithole. Any off-the-cuff opinion on how hard it will be to get the power company to run 3-phase to a new shop I'd build? I live in a rural part of SE Wisconsin and have power poles on my property, so presumably it's not as outlandish as someone living in a subdivision, but I dunno.
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Sep 8, 2017 21:02
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mekilljoydammit posted:Well, getting deeper and deeper in the planning rabbithole. Any off-the-cuff opinion on how hard it will be to get the power company to run 3-phase to a new shop I'd build? I live in a rural part of SE Wisconsin and have power poles on my property, so presumably it's not as outlandish as someone living in a subdivision, but I dunno. Are they three phase power lines? Those will have three lines on the crossarms if it is. If you have three phase to your property it will be reasonable. If you only have a single phase line, uh, well, hope for a lotto win.
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Sep 8, 2017 21:24
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beep-beep car is go posted:Too easy to drain hazardous materials into the watershed. Yeah I want a drain that goes into the sewer, not the storm drain. When you wash your car in the driveway it goes into the storm drain.
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Sep 9, 2017 02:02
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Ohrmazd posted:Yeah I want a drain that goes into the sewer, not the storm drain. When you wash your car in the driveway it goes into the storm drain. Stuff you’d be draining in a car garage shouldn’t go into the sewer either, really.
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Sep 9, 2017 03:48
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beep-beep car is go posted:Stuff you’d be draining in a car garage shouldn’t go into the sewer either, really. I don't want to dump my oil in the sewer. I just want to wash my car without the stuff draining straight to fresh water.
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Sep 9, 2017 05:35
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mekilljoydammit posted:Well, getting deeper and deeper in the planning rabbithole. Any off-the-cuff opinion on how hard it will be to get the power company to run 3-phase to a new shop I'd build? I live in a rural part of SE Wisconsin and have power poles on my property, so presumably it's not as outlandish as someone living in a subdivision, but I dunno. Like slung blade said, it depends on how far the 3 phase is from you. For a shop, unless you're installing a huge load you'll probably get a 120/240/208 two pot bank, which isn't "true" 3 phase but will run everything. But you can always get a phase converter if utility 3 phase is too expensive.
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Sep 9, 2017 12:55
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Variable Phase Drives (VFDs) and rotary phase changers are a solution to three phase from single phase if it's too expensive for new lines. Big ones ain't cheap tho, really depends on what you want to run. 5hp lathe? Not too bad. 30HP mill? That's going to be not cheap
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Sep 9, 2017 15:09
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Looked outside with a handy guide to what to look for (thanks guys) and I have 3-phase on the poles that are on my property line border.  How thick of a slab should I have poured if I'm putting a vertical machining center on it? Again, for ahead-of-need research.
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Sep 9, 2017 17:58
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mekilljoydammit posted:Looked outside with a handy guide to what to look for (thanks guys) and I have 3-phase on the poles that are on my property line border. Go at least six inch, with extra rebar. Plain garage floor is usually like 4" or less.
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Sep 9, 2017 23:28
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According to this youtube blacksmith guy, you need 6" for a power hammer with no issues, and can make 4" work with some shock absorption. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkuBHZZIhPg&t=252s (start at 4:12, if it doesn't automatically.)
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Sep 10, 2017 03:58
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dreesemonkey posted:I understand wanting to save some money, but I think generally going bigger isn't necessarily proportionally more (i.e. a 24x24 might be $30k, but a 36x24 might be $35k - complete guesstimates, I Am Not A Contractor). But you said zoning/taxes so that's up for you to decide. quote:First you gotta figure out what you want to do with it. Just parking cars and nothing else? Cars and storage? A workshop? Lawn equipment? How many windows are you going to have, where should the man door go, etc. etc. 99% likely that I will be going with 10ft walls instead of 8ft for some extra vertical storage, and also very likely that I will end up doing storage trusses with a 6/12 pitch roof. Waiting for one more contractor to quote me but I am looking for all in one so electric will be included and I will be laying out light locations and outlet locations. quote:Not knowing what your lot looks like at all, you could pour a slab next to it for a "lean-to" style roof for extra storage or be enclosed in the future, etc. Lot's of stuff you could do. If you're into garages and stuff, check out garagejournal.com, lot's of people sharing their garage / shops on there. Yeah with my shed I am going to hold off on any lean to but I like the concept of it. Definitely going to check out that website. Going to go the route of matching the house with 30 year shingles. For concrete pour the quote I have is for 3500psi fibermesh concrete 4" deep with some sort of steel spacers over 1/2" crushed gravel bed w/vapor barrier. Larrymer posted:I would consider having a drain for the floor if you plan to wash stuff inside there. Pretty much the only time to put that in, obviously much harder after the fact. Dreese nailed about everything else I could think of. Plumbing also (if desired) is something to think about. I was hoping to get a hose connection on one side of the garage but apparently local codes don't like it because they think everyone will knock a hole in the garage wall and put interior plumbing for a living space off of it. So yeah no floor drain with codes that strict I think. slidebite posted:Even if you're not going to heat the garage right away (assuming you live somewhere where heat is something you would want), consider running the infrastructure needed for it if it's in your budget. Assuming you have gas, maybe run a power outlet, gas stub, low voltage wires and install an exhaust vent where you think you'd want to put a heater. quote:When I was lift shopping, iirc 4.25"+ @ 3000psi reinforced concrete seemed to be the standard. Anything thicker/better all the better. Most garage pads/driveways as a matter of standard are about 5"+ where I live. If you have your eye on a certain lift, download the manual and read the installation instructions. Consider your ceiling heights if you plan to put in a lift. If you go nice and high you can even consider installing some additional storage racks at roof height for those big things you rarely use.. or heck I've seen some people even do a small mezzanine which is nice. quote:Whatever you do, don't cheap out on the number of standard 115V wall outlets. Try and have one every 6 feet or so with extra near the workbench. Nothing worse than needing an extension cord in your own garage. Don't forget outside outlets either. Also running some cables for a security system/cameras or something isn't crazy before it gets buttoned up. Consider a 230V outlet if you can for a future welder or big compressor. If you are putting in garage door openers, make sure you have power outlets on the ceiling near where the opener unit goes and runs the cables for the photo sensors. quote:Also, LIGHTS LIGHTS. Standard garage lighting is abysmal, like 2 screw in bulbs. You'll probably want at least 4x T8 per parking "bay" plus something dedicated over your workbench. The more the better, make your neighbours think you have a grow op in the garage. I'm personally not a huge window person for my garages. I see them as a security risk and insulation inefficiency.
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Sep 10, 2017 21:27
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Definitely go with 10' ceiling height.
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Sep 10, 2017 22:51
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This thread is so cool, I've always wanted a garage/workshop. Ferremit, your setup is awesome. Maybe someday I'll get to have one.
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Sep 10, 2017 23:37
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My main thread has a good breakdown of our shops construction, so I'll refrain from reposting it. Summary: 30x48x14. Did everything except concrete- definitely would pay someone in the future. The real reason for posting in here is to show off my hilarious temporary power setup. I have yet to wire the shop, meaning everything ran off extension cords. I took some PTO last week and decided to fix this. I found a 100ft 6/3-8/1 Spider box cable for $100 and built a temporary distribution panel for the building. This just consolidates the cord runs, but now there's individual breakers and GFCI outlets. The best part is I finally have enough juice to run my larger Miller welder and Plasma cutter. Oh and we have a light switch  . Some day I'll pull the permit for the new service required, but this will work for now.     The former "temp" power. Each cord was fed from a dedicated circuit, but no GFCI and only 30amps of 240v. 
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Sep 11, 2017 22:11
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Semi-ghetto, but way loving cleaner and safer. Nice work.
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Sep 12, 2017 16:47
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I wish I knew how to do all that.
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Sep 13, 2017 02:42
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How difficult is it to install a garage door opener? My builder didn't bother putting one on the pull-thru of the 3rd bay, but he did completely wire/rough everything in before he buttoned up the walls. So I've got cables for the photo-eyes, a cable for the wall switch with everything ending up on the ceiling near a power outlet. I wasn't going to bother but there are some sales on right now so I'm thinking of it.
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Sep 15, 2017 17:18
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slidebite posted:How difficult is it to install a garage door opener? My builder didn't bother putting one on the pull-thru of the 3rd bay, but he did completely wire/rough everything in before he buttoned up the walls. So I've got cables for the photo-eyes, a cable for the wall switch with everything ending up on the ceiling near a power outlet. I wasn't going to bother but there are some sales on right now so I'm thinking of it. It sounds like most of the stuff is in place for it. I've replaced one before and it was pretty straightforward. Do you have the allstrut or whatever in place to hang it on and the channel needed for the opener chain/belt? If not that might take some work, but not insurmountable by any means.
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Sep 15, 2017 17:25
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Nah, none of the mounting stuff/hardware is there, just the cables for controls/eyes and power. I assume these door kits come with all that stuff for mounting though?
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Sep 15, 2017 17:34
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slidebite posted:Nah, none of the mounting stuff/hardware is there, just the cables for controls/eyes and power. I assume these door kits come with all that stuff for mounting though? I think the kits just come with the center channel (in addition to the motor, remotes, sensors, etc). So you'd need to find a joist in the ceiling to mount the unistrut to to make a hanger for the motor and end of the center channel. Also, IIRC there needs to be a decent header board above the garage door to mount the door-side of the center channel to as well. edit: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Direct-D..._-204154626-_-N
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Sep 15, 2017 17:38
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I need to figure out what swing gate with solar powered setup to buy now that I will be driving in and out of my back yard the wooden manual gate is no bueno. Any recommended brands and/or things to look for?
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Sep 15, 2017 18:34
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tangy yet delightful posted:I need to figure out what swing gate with solar powered setup to buy now that I will be driving in and out of my back yard the wooden manual gate is no bueno. I have a gate like this on my driveway: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Tarter-Com...2hoChBMQAvD_BwE It's mounted to a 6x6 and there's another 6x6 on the other side. I have this installed, but never use it because driveway (and mostly ups/fedex/usps parcels are nicer on my porch): https://www.amazon.com/Mighty-Mule-...te+opener&psc=1 This combo seems to work well, the gate is really light (comparatively) and the opener never seems bogged down or anything.
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Sep 15, 2017 19:43
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slidebite posted:How difficult is it to install a garage door opener? There is a lot of stuff I'm willing to do and have done myself, but garage door installation is one of the few I will always pay someone to do. I've heard way too many horror stories about people setting the preload on the spring incorrectly and breaking an arm or just straight up screwing something up. But, I also have a really affordable garage door and garage door opener guy where installation of either is cheap if I buy the parts through him, which he also then warranties installation on. That certainly make the decision easier.
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Sep 16, 2017 17:30
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Mat_Drinks posted:There is a lot of stuff I'm willing to do and have done myself, but garage door installation is one of the few I will always pay someone to do. I've heard way too many horror stories about people setting the preload on the spring incorrectly and breaking an arm or just straight up screwing something up. garage door opener =/= garage door installation. I have done a garage door spring once, and I will never again for the reasons you mentioned.
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Sep 16, 2017 17:45
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