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shy boy from chess club posted:Ok, kinda want a manual. Manuals are cool + good
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Sep 9, 2017 12:50
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Having a slight problem with title. I bought a 2014 used car from an official dealership. 2 weeks later they sent me the tags, but it looks like the title was sent to my old address (if it was sent at all). It's completely my fault that I forgot to update my address with the DMV, but what should I do now? Can I go get another title with just my sales paperwork? The fact that I've received the tags and registrations means the title is indeed in my name right?
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Sep 9, 2017 17:53
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Howard Phillips posted:Having a slight problem with title. Yeah, you should be able to just file a change of address and get a new one. Might cost a few bucks but shouldn't be a hassle.
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Sep 9, 2017 17:56
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Deteriorata posted:Yeah, you should be able to just file a change of address and get a new one. Might cost a few bucks but shouldn't be a hassle. Okay thanks. Hopefully they won't charge me again for the taxes.
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Sep 9, 2017 18:14
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Probably hosed. But reman batteries from a quality company will have it running for another 150-200k. Junkyard battery would be up in the air. Both options are much cheaper than brand new. We're most likely going to get it through inspection and try to trade it in for a new car at the dealership. From what I've read I could swap out one of the cells, but if one is failing I'm at risk of a cascading failure eventually. The KBB on this thing is like $2000, and it's not worth putting that much more into repairs.
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Sep 9, 2017 18:39
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If your inspection includes an emissions inspection, in most states it's an automatic fail if the CEL is on. Also an automatic fail if you've cleared codes recently. I don't know if this applies 100% to hybrids, so YMMV.
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Sep 9, 2017 18:46
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DogonCrook posted:E: to be clear one hand with downward pressure and a good shake will do the trick you wont need to get very rough to cause it if thats the ussue. Give the car a noogie basically lol just as a followup you were correct about the manifold gasket, took the car in today and they agreed that the temp sensor was broke, and said that there is an issue with the manifold gasket, they're not sure where the issue is though so they've got my car till Monday to find the exact issue. Sounds like it's going to be an expensive fix which is depressing considering I've spent like £350 on the exhaust replacement i spoke to my step father who said it may be relating to the exhaust they put in but who knows 
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Sep 9, 2017 19:00
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Looke posted:just as a followup you were correct about the manifold gasket, took the car in today and they agreed that the temp sensor was broke, and said that there is an issue with the manifold gasket, they're not sure where the issue is though so they've got my car till Monday to find the exact issue. Sounds like it's going to be an expensive fix which is depressing considering I've spent like £350 on the exhaust replacement I was pretty on the fence about it being that but i wanted you to check because its the most dangerous of the culprits. It sucks to have pop up but you at least caught it before an accident or it took out your engine so you can at least take some solace in that. You kinda dodged a bullet. Also if this had been the computer it would have been way more expensive. Glad you found it though i was legit worried about you driving that thing and was kicking myself for not saying something even though it sounded like you handled it well.
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Sep 9, 2017 19:34
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Looks like someone backed into my car. What's the easiest/cheapest way to fix the dent? Doesn't have to look perfect. 
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Sep 10, 2017 02:47
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Josh Lyman posted:Looks like someone backed into my car. What's the easiest/cheapest way to fix the dent? Doesn't have to look perfect. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m94Zn4cVr90
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Sep 10, 2017 02:57
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Most of that scuffing will come off with some buffing compound, you can get it at any auto parts store. Where do you live? You could try the blowdryer method if it's cold outside. You basically try to shock the metal from going very cold to hot using the blowdryer. Sometimes it works. https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-use-a-hair-dryer-to-remove-a-dent Otherwise, if you don't want to actually repair it, you could try to push it out from the inside by trying off the interior door trim. Does the door catch on the fender when you open it?
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Sep 10, 2017 02:57
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I was able to pop the big dent back out using my phone mount. Good thing I bought a bunch of detailing stuff a few months ago, I guess. Time to clay/compound/wax the scuffs.  edit: v I don't know when/where it happened. Could've been anytime in the last week, really. Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Sep 11, 2017 |
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Sep 11, 2017 14:54
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No security cams at the parking lot you were at? That's some serious hit-and-run damage, like $2,000+. 2 doors and the fender.
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Sep 11, 2017 15:08
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I'm a novice at doing car repairs but I've been working on my car more often lately. I have a 2003 VW Jetta (mk4) with the 1.8T engine. Last month I replaced the front brake pads and rotors because one of the rotors was warped. Everything went mostly fine with that and I'm set for the front brakes for now. I took a look at the rear brakes yesterday and the pads don't seem to have a lot left on them compared to the front when I changed them out, so I'm planning to replace those. Should I replace the rotors while I'm at it because the old ones are rusty? They don't seem to be warped but they're not that expensive and it'd be easy to change them while I'm working on the brakes. Here's a couple of not great pictures because my phone decided not to focus when I tried to get a close up of the pads. Most of the rust on the rotors is on the edges and front, the surfaces the pads touch are pretty clean and evenly worn:  
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Sep 11, 2017 15:57
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The rust doesn't matter but it does look nasty. Swap them out if you want to, it won't hurt anything.
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Sep 11, 2017 16:05
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Rexxed posted:I'm a novice at doing car repairs but I've been working on my car more often lately. I have a 2003 VW Jetta (mk4) with the 1.8T engine. Last month I replaced the front brake pads and rotors because one of the rotors was warped. Everything went mostly fine with that and I'm set for the front brakes for now. I took a look at the rear brakes yesterday and the pads don't seem to have a lot left on them compared to the front when I changed them out, so I'm planning to replace those. Should I replace the rotors while I'm at it because the old ones are rusty? They don't seem to be warped but they're not that expensive and it'd be easy to change them while I'm working on the brakes. On the rear brakes you will need the tool to wind the piston back into the caliper when you push it back in. The parts store might have it to borrow.
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Sep 11, 2017 16:12
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shy boy from chess club posted:On the rear brakes you will need the tool to wind the piston back into the caliper when you push it back in. The parts store might have it to borrow. Is doing it the way this 1A Auto video suggested going to cause problems? They put pressure on the piston with a C clamp and twist the piston in with large pliers. They tighten the clamp as it gets loose. I've got the stuff for that but would need the tool if that's a bad idea (at about 3:20 in this video): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=olAYCU1s6Pg&t=200s
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Sep 11, 2017 16:25
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Rexxed posted:Is doing it the way this 1A Auto video suggested going to cause problems? They put pressure on the piston with a C clamp and twist the piston in with large pliers. They tighten the clamp as it gets loose. I've got the stuff for that but would need the tool if that's a bad idea (at about 3:20 in this video): A pin spanner also works well to do it, turning by the indents machined into the piston face. Be aware that VAG like to use an internal hex on their caliper bolts sometimes, so be careful not to round them off. Similarly, the retaining screws for the discs can be a bastard for chewing up. It's worth the  for an impact driver to use on those.That's generic VAG rear brakes, though, pretty easy.
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Sep 11, 2017 17:30
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While not a repair question, this seems like the right place to post this rather than the track thread. I realized last weekend I work 10 minutes away from an indoor electric karting place which runs league. 6 hours of racing later, I'm hooked and wanting to get more into karting as a more affordable/safe motorsport option. However, I haven't been able to find a ton of resources on it, or locations of other tracks that might run karting leagues. Does anyone have any experience with karting and could provide a couple good resources, or tips for finding a good track near me?
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Sep 11, 2017 19:14
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InitialDave posted:You can pften do those VW calipers without the clamp, even. Just turning the piston to screw it back in works. Watch out you don't damage the piston with the grip of the tool - try and only grab the outermost bit that doesn't go past the seals as it retracts. Yeah, I definitely stripped the Philips heads on retaining screws on the front rotors last month but since you don't strictly need them and the easy outs didn't work I just drilled the heads off, which seems to be a common work around. I learned about the caliper bolts on the front too, because while those didn't strip on the hex end they stripped in the thread end going back into the caliper brackets. I replaced the brackets, however, so that's fixed, and I'll just be mindful of that on the rear as well since they're probably in similar shape rust-wise. I got a cheap but not awful corded impact wrench and impact sockets and an inexpensive torque wrench (and jack stands, a floor jack, etc) in the last year or so that I've been doing more of my own work on the car, so I should be set. Thanks for the advice, I feel better prepared to get this done.
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Sep 11, 2017 19:53
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If you're replacing the disc, you might get away with unbolting the carrier alone, and leaving the caliper attached to it. The handbrake cable might interfere with access, though, I can't remember. The impact I mentioned is one of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html They're probably the best thing going for stubborn screws.
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Sep 11, 2017 20:02
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You can also use that rust removal jelly they have at auto parts stores and some wire brushes to get that rust off hubs and then paint them.
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Sep 11, 2017 20:11
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InitialDave posted:If you're replacing the disc, you might get away with unbolting the carrier alone, and leaving the caliper attached to it. The handbrake cable might interfere with access, though, I can't remember. That looks good, I'll have to pick one up. DogonCrook posted:You can also use that rust removal jelly they have at auto parts stores and some wire brushes to get that rust off hubs and then paint them. I'll look into it, being in the northeast and parking outside it seems like rust is inevitable but the car's only got 100k miles on it so it's probably worth trying to extend the life of the parts despite its age.
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Sep 11, 2017 20:17
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DogonCrook posted:You can also use that rust removal jelly they have at auto parts stores and some wire brushes to get that rust off hubs and then paint them. Warning, naval jelly smells awful. But it most definitely works. I cleaned up some 1966 nuts and bolts for re-use over the past couple of weeks.
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Sep 12, 2017 02:44
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shy boy from chess club posted:On the rear brakes you will need the tool to wind the piston back into the caliper when you push it back in. The parts store might have it to borrow. https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/SER3163 They're cheap if you want to buy one too. Make your life easy, What I did with mine is hook it up to a 3/8" drive extension, then a socket adapter, chucked that in a cordless drill, and on low speed, with the drill clutch loose, I used the drill to spin it in the appropriate direction. Took less than 30 seconds, just do it slowly, so that if the dust boot starts spinning too, you can stop before it gets torn. If necessary, you can pry the boot off the piston and put a tiny dab of brake lube in there to help the piston spin without the boot binding up.
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Sep 12, 2017 12:39
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Update on Scirocco alternator: new alternator is in. It requires that I rev to 6,000 RPM before it'll charge. Once I do that it'll charge as long as I drive, at idle, and with all the loads I can put on it. Revving to 6k isn't something i'll be doing in the parking lot of my apartment complex though. the battery light is not on at all. In fact, it stays off even with the key on engine off. I think troubleshooting the blue wire to the alternator is required now.
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Sep 12, 2017 17:36
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Yea there's definitely something wrong because I only have to rev mine to 2500 to turn the alternator light off.
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Sep 12, 2017 17:46
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Just had an alignment done on my 2012 Nissan Quest. The drive is better, there was too much toe in before up front and it shuddered under braking. Aside from that, the wheel has always been slightly off center a few degrees clockwise. After the alignment, the wheel offset is still there. Driving on a straight road (with normal road camber) the wheel is still offset clockwise. Did the shop miss something? I've read the 2012s had some alignment issues from the factory, is this just something to live with?
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Sep 12, 2017 21:55
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That sounds like the shop didn't bother centering the wheel after they put it on the rack.
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Sep 12, 2017 22:11
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I picked up a 2006 Chevy Impala from a police auction. Since getting it home, I've discovered it has a parasitic drain. I don't see any aftermarket connections attached to the positive terminal. Does anyone know how long I need to leave a door open so I can start pulling fuses to try to track down where the juice is going? Failing that- where the heck do I go from here?
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Sep 13, 2017 04:41
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I have a 2014 Impala and the blend door actuators (there are 3) fail like clockwork on them. When they fail, the ABS gear in them strips out and they "click" forever after shutting off, and with any remote lock activity. After enough time, the gear strips fully and they go silent, but still spin the motor forever causing a drain. Rock Auto shows the same P/N for 2006. It's a jellybean GM part they've used forever. Check to make sure ALL of your HVAC vent settings work. Also random.leftover police equipment can cause drains. My 2008 CVPI's shifter interlock does. PS don't buy a whole new actuator motor if yours have failed. They're only $20 but they'll fail immediately again. The replacement PA66 glass fiber reinforced aftermarket nylon gear is $18, and that seems like a scam, but it isn't. Get the gear.
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Sep 13, 2017 04:58
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0toShifty posted:Update on Scirocco alternator: I know nothing about VWs, but does the alternator have a small wire that's either broken or not connected? On many cars this is the wire for the battery warning light and the light also acts as the minimum load needed to get the alternator working. Without it the alternator has difficulty creating a charge and so that would explain why you have to rev it get it going and why the warning light isn't working.
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Sep 13, 2017 10:43
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IOwnCalculus posted:That sounds like the shop didn't bother centering the wheel after they put it on the rack. That's what I figured. I scheduled to take it back.
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Sep 13, 2017 13:36
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Bipolar Transistor posted:I picked up a 2006 Chevy Impala from a police auction. Since getting it home, I've discovered it has a parasitic drain. I don't see any aftermarket connections attached to the positive terminal. Does anyone know how long I need to leave a door open so I can start pulling fuses to try to track down where the juice is going? Failing that- where the heck do I go from here? The body control module on that should shut off all interior lights (including the trunk light) after 15 minutes of the door open/key removed. That's been a GM thing for a long time now. It even shuts off map lights. How do you know you don't have a battery with an internal short? I know Ford used to provide a ton of extra wiring for the CVPIs (for light bars, radios, etc) - maybe see if there's such wiring in yours? The body control module would have no control over that stuff. But if it's just going dead overnight, I'd suspect a dying battery (unless it holds a full charge when disconnected). If someone can scare up an Impala police interceptor diagram, that would be pretty helpful. 0toShifty posted:new alternator is in. It requires that I rev to 6,000 RPM before it'll charge. Once I do that it'll charge as long as I drive, at idle, and with all the loads I can put on it. Revving to 6k isn't something i'll be doing in the parking lot of my apartment complex though. Yeah that's a pretty classic "something in the exciter circuit is broken". Like Sweevo said, the alternator depends on the load of the battery light to excite it. Did the old alternator require revving the same, and have the same issue with the light not coming on? If the light came on before, I'd start with just checking for corrosion in the connector at the alternator, or maybe the connecting pin is spread out/not making contact. I don't know VWs tho.
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Sep 13, 2017 13:38
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:The body control module on that should shut off all interior lights (including the trunk light) after 15 minutes of the door open/key removed. That's been a GM thing for a long time now. It even shuts off map lights. The old alternator did charge fine when the car first started. I didn't have to rev the car to get it to charge before. But you're right - maybe my connector got messed up when I changed the alternator. I'll go check that next.
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Sep 13, 2017 15:08
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gently caress. I've been bested. Any new england goons have any experience donating cars? I'm doing research on which ones I'd like to go with but I'm looking for anecdotal experiences. So any first or second hand knowledge you guys have dealing with these organisations would be greatly appreciated. For clarity, I don't care about the amount of the tax credit, just looking for as smooth a process as possible. Right now I'm looking at the 1 877 Kaaaaarrrrs 4 Kids, 1 877 Kars 4 Kids...(betcha glad i put that in your head  )
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Sep 13, 2017 15:12
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The Public radio car donations are also easy peasy. With most NPR affiliates you just walk in with the car and title and walk out with receipt 10 minutes later.
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Sep 13, 2017 15:15
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:I have a 2014 Impala and the blend door actuators (there are 3) fail like clockwork on them. Thanks. Will have to check that. Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:How do you know you don't have a battery with an internal short? Brand new battery. Went flat in two days when not on at least a 2A charge. Flatlined on a 500mA trickle.
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Sep 13, 2017 19:41
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2014 Charger. The alternator, which is being recalled by Chrysler but only for V6 engines which my car isn't although it's the exact same loving part, died 2 months ago. Replaced it. Recently it's been giving me the "battery saver mode" message which if I'm not mistaken means there's voltage drop. Now the new alternator has a 1 year warranty and the messages comes and goes. Before I waste my time arguing with the dealership, is there a way where they can physically check if the alternator is failing? Because I know they'll tell me to gently caress off if the message conveniently decides to not show up when I bring the car to them.
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Sep 13, 2017 21:27
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A4 1.8t. Few weeks ago the air intake hose/pipe coming from the intercooler to the engine popped off while driving hard and i put it down to an old hose clamp, stuck on a new one nice and tight, noticed a day or two later the hose had slipped a bit, changed to another hose clamp in case the new one was poo poo and its still doing it. I figure that as its old it could be collapsing in on itself when the engine is trying to suck in lots of air- change out the pipe first, or is there something else at play? No other problems other than a dying diverter valve which im hoping to get done next week.
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Sep 13, 2017 21:34
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