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GEMorris posted:Counterpoint: the smell of their interior detailer. If the QID smells bad then I think something is wrong with it. Meguiar's said they had a bad batch on the consumer version only a while back, but I've seen people complain about a bad smell even outside of that incident. I smelled a bottle of the stuff at WalMart and it didn't stink to me. A long time ago I heard people complain about 303 AP smelling bad, too, and the response from 303 was that it meant the product froze at some point and was now ruined. I do wonder if it's a thing with VLRP products in general since they pretty much all contain PDMS, so perhaps anything with PDMS must be protected from freezing or else it goes bad and stinks.
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Aug 29, 2017 06:49
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The mothers quick detailer smells like cinnamon liqueur and the turtle wax car shampoo that is absurdly neon green smells like watermelons. Not that I purposely sniff the detailing chemicals at work or anything! Oh, and superior aquagloss smells like a honeydew melon. 
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Aug 29, 2017 06:55
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nothing smells as bad as the fallout/contaminant cleaner stuff cherry scented burned hair
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Aug 29, 2017 16:44
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Griotts quick detailer smells like smarties.
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Aug 29, 2017 21:12
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Any suggestions for removing painted-on pinstripes? My new V70R has a really poo poo stripe job on it and it would be nice to get rid of them.
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Aug 29, 2017 22:51
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Edit: nm, thought it said stick on type, not painted. Edit2: I'd call a auto body shop and see what they recommend or would quote for removing it. Maybe they have something they'd suggest, maybe not. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Aug 30, 2017 |
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Aug 29, 2017 22:53
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Careful wetsanding? Though if you're lucky, the pinstripes might come off with a thinner etc that doesn't attack the factory paint, the question is what that might be.
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Aug 29, 2017 23:27
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Google is telling me denatured alcohol.
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Aug 30, 2017 15:29
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Cop Porn Popper posted:The mothers quick detailer smells like cinnamon liqueur and the turtle wax car shampoo that is absurdly neon green smells like watermelons. Not that I purposely sniff the detailing chemicals at work or anything! Oh, and superior aquagloss smells like a honeydew melon. I think it's Meguiars Ultimate Wash & Wax that's bubble gum scented, it rules. Also I have an old Turtle Wax interior shine (actually really good), that smells like fresh lemon oil. Counterpoint: Autosmart Hard Wax Protector smells like rancid furniture polish, but it seems like a real good wax that lasts forever with one application.
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Sep 3, 2017 20:51
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Quick detail question - wondering if anyone might have a fix for this. I've got a 2013 Cadillac CTS-V - the inner portion of the seats are Alcantara, as well as the steering wheel. It was pretty well taken care of, but I decided to clean the seats and steering wheel. I used the Sonax Alcantara cleaner, which from what I've read, has gotten good reviews and generally comes well recommended. (https://www.sonax.com/Product-Search/(location)/12785-206300-SONAX-Xtreme-Upholstery-Alcantara-cleaner) I shook it up as per the directions, and foamed it directly onto the seat, massaged it in with a microfiber cloth, then let it sit for a few minutes, and wiped it clean with another microfiber. It left big blotches on the seat wherever the foam was initially applied. I cleaned the other seat using it by just spraying it onto the cloth first then spraying it in, and it didn't do this. My driver's seat now looks like crap, as it has these weird circular residue patches from where the cleaner was initially foamed on. Does anyone know any way to get this back to normal?
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Sep 7, 2017 03:24
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Now I know why I never had a white car before. I was fine all winter I've owned it, but now spring is here after a long drive it was covered in pollen or smashed bugs. Lots of yellow and brown splotches that didn't come off in a wash. Even a claying, or a light compound rub. The compound got close, but this car is old (1990) and already has thin paint is places. What's the best way/product to treat this? It was previously rubbed back with compound and waxed when I bought it in May, and I've used "wash and wax" car wash in june/july, but ti's just old stuff I have from my last cars, some old meguires, some old turtlewax stuff. The only thing I bought specifically for this car was some mothers clay bar and spray.
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Sep 12, 2017 11:24
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Not sure what's available in aus, but here I am partial to turtle wax bug and tar remover. It does need to sit for a while to allow the bugs to rehydrate but its cheap and it works. The key is keeping the bug remnants wet long enough, sometimes it may take a damp rag draped over them and the cleaner.
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Sep 12, 2017 13:15
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Thanks, I'll give that a try. E: Yeah down here we can easily get most Turtle wax, mothers, meguires, autoglym at any local car accessories store. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 14:46 on Sep 12, 2017 |
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Sep 12, 2017 14:41
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Someone had posted their "repainting wheels" guide in here a few months back and I can't find it again. I'm pretty sure it was SSS who posted it but there have been a lot of beers between then and now. Trying to clean up these used buddies:
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Sep 13, 2017 19:37
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scuz posted:Someone had posted their "repainting wheels" guide in here a few months back and I can't find it again. I'm pretty sure it was SSS who posted it but there have been a lot of beers between then and now. Trying to clean up these used buddies: I'm interested in this, as well... in particular a recommendation for a good stock-looking silver rattle can that hardens like a rock.
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Sep 13, 2017 20:26
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EVERYWHERE 
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Seat Safety Switch posted:When I did my Forester steelies, I used a red Scotchbrite pad and did: HAHA loving found it. Thanks again, SSS! These are for steel wheels and obviously that's not what my new white ones are, but still I found it. Any tips for refinishing the wheels that I have, those white Speedlines?
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Sep 13, 2017 20:38
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I replaced the old three-piece spoiler on my car with a new one-piece one. However, the now missing side pieces were attached via tape that now has left black marks in my white paint. I tried using some goo gone to get it all off, but now it seems like it's stuck on there. Claying didn't do much either. Any ideas?
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Sep 13, 2017 20:49
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scuz posted:HAHA loving found it. Thanks again, SSS! These are for steel wheels and obviously that's not what my new white ones are, but still I found it. Just scuff it up, no need to get all the paint off or anything. For curb rash, I'd smooth it down with a file or sand paper if it's really bad, and either use filler or just try and file it as smooth as possible. I personally have never painted the barrel of the wheel, just the face. You can't really notice it after a little brake dust gets on there anyway. Are you planning on painting them the same color (white)? Use thin coats and follow whatever the paint can says that you decide to use for coats and recoat times. Otherwise if you want the easiest answer, just plastidip them. Prep only requires them being clean, then throw index cards around the bead. They say you can just peel that stuff off which is true, but for over spray areas like the tire the dip isn't thick enough there and won't peel off in one big piece. Just use the cards, trust me. I spent way too much time trying to get the thin layers of it off tires that had tons of little grooves. IronDoge posted:I replaced the old three-piece spoiler on my car with a new one-piece one. However, the now missing side pieces were attached via tape that now has left black marks in my white paint. I tried using some goo gone to get it all off, but now it seems like it's stuck on there. Claying didn't do much either. Any ideas? I love this stuff. https://www.amazon.com/3M-03618-Adhesive-Remover-oz/dp/B000BQYA7W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505338307&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+adhesive+remover Test in an area that you won't see to make sure it doesn't discolor the paint. Sometimes it can but otherwise that stuff works amazingly well (I've used it on paint to remove emblem/badge goo) and beats the poo poo out of goo gone.
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Sep 13, 2017 22:31
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Larrymer posted:Just scuff it up, no need to get all the paint off or anything. For curb rash, I'd smooth it down with a file or sand paper if it's really bad, and either use filler or just try and file it as smooth as possible. I personally have never painted the barrel of the wheel, just the face. You can't really notice it after a little brake dust gets on there anyway.  
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Sep 13, 2017 22:45
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Larrymer posted:Just scuff it up, no need to get all the paint off or anything. For curb rash, I'd smooth it down with a file or sand paper if it's really bad, and either use filler or just try and file it as smooth as possible. I personally have never painted the barrel of the wheel, just the face. You can't really notice it after a little brake dust gets on there anyway. Are you planning on painting them the same color (white)? Use thin coats and follow whatever the paint can says that you decide to use for coats and recoat times.
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Sep 13, 2017 23:34
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scuz posted:Cool, thanks! Probably gloss white, I'll find that and something suitable for center caps since one is missing and that's gonna drive me bananas.
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Sep 14, 2017 00:17
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Duplicolor makes wheel paint and clear coat, or at least they used to. I've used the silver and gunmetal with pretty good results. Edit: https://duplicolor.com/product/wheel-coating Used to be able to buy it at autozone. Maybe you still can.
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Sep 14, 2017 00:38
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Oreillys sells it too. 
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Sep 14, 2017 05:10
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Whats a good headlight buffing/restoration product? Preferably something available in Canada.
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Sep 16, 2017 21:45
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wesleywillis posted:Whats a good headlight buffing/restoration product? Preferably something available in Canada. I've used the 3M kit 4 or 5 times with great results.
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Sep 17, 2017 02:52
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Meguiar's kit is good.
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Sep 17, 2017 12:49
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3M is legit. It's designed so you can use a drill to do it rather than by hand which is great. Find something to coat it so it doesn't yellow in a month afterwards.
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Sep 17, 2017 19:07
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Larrymer posted:3M is legit. It's designed so you can use a drill to do it rather than by hand which is great. Find something to coat it so it doesn't yellow in a month afterwards.
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Sep 17, 2017 19:49
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The meguiars kit comes with the (whatever) coating?
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Sep 17, 2017 20:20
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Some grit got in the slit the window moves through on the car door and has left a bunch of tiny vertical scratches on the window. What's the best way of removing them?
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Sep 17, 2017 22:07
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Grakkus posted:Some grit got in the slit the window moves through on the car door and has left a bunch of tiny vertical scratches on the window. What's the best way of removing them? I see that a lot, and if they're deep enough, I think you remove them by getting a new window.
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Sep 17, 2017 22:54
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OP has info on buffing glass, I've always wanted to try it but have been too cheap/lazy.
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Sep 17, 2017 23:01
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wesleywillis posted:The meguiars kit comes with the (whatever) coating? http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/g3000-heavy-duty-headlight-restoration-kit/ The "1 step" one doesn't, I think.
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Sep 17, 2017 23:19
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I don't think I've ever bought a meguiars product and been disappointed. That seems like a good kit, especially if it had the protectant bundled in.
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Sep 17, 2017 23:34
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The mothers kit has protectant and a drill attachment as well. I've personally used that one to do 4-5 sets of headlights, all to reasonably good results. I'd personally lay a coat of UV protecting clear over them once you have used any of the kits rather than just the protectant. Even the protectant loses its effectiveness after a few months.
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Sep 17, 2017 23:57
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wesleywillis posted:I see that a lot, and if they're deep enough, I think you remove them by getting a new window. They're shallow enough that my nail barely catches in them. I could swear i've seen some product you can just put on and it fills the grooves and makes it look fine (albeit temporarily)
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Sep 20, 2017 14:01
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Cop Porn Popper posted:The mothers kit has protectant and a drill attachment as well. I've personally used that one to do 4-5 sets of headlights, all to reasonably good results. I'd personally lay a coat of UV protecting clear over them once you have used any of the kits rather than just the protectant. Even the protectant loses its effectiveness after a few months. I hadn't thought of that, can you just tape off the surrounding area and spray some clear coat on them? Hate to gently caress up headlights since they're so expensive to replace.
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Sep 20, 2017 17:15
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Obviously removing the housings from the vehicle to do it is the best way, but yeah. You could probably tape everything off EXTREMELY well and spray clear on. I would just remove the housings given how many folds and creases your average headlight is nestled into.
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Sep 20, 2017 22:44
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wesleywillis posted:Whats a good headlight buffing/restoration product? Preferably something available in Canada. Last time I got one from Canadian Tire it didn't have a drill attachment. Don't get that one, hand polishing sucks. Also afterwards, put the xpel headlight covers on. Protects from both chips and yellowing, plus you can peel them off if they start to look bad. Only thing is to start putting the covers on at the top, not the bottom. I have a little puddle of alcohol stuck in the cover as I didn't get it all pushed out.
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Sep 21, 2017 00:47
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RE: Glass - Are any of the various Rain-x/water repellent cleaning products good? I'd like something that beads up the water really well since we're getting into super rainy fall season here in Ohio, but I don't know if I'm throwing good money after bad because that stuff doesn't last well these days, or if the second I hit my windshield washer it's going to clear it off anyway. Am I just best sticking to things like the Invisible Glass spray/wipes, Meguiars Perfect Clarity, etc? E: I tried Rain-X washer fluid in my last car and that gummed up the sensor so I've just stuck to the basic blue stuff ever since.
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Oct 9, 2017 13:47
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