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rdb posted:I finally got a Toyota dealer to agree to fix the leaking cam tower gaskets on my 5.7 Tundra. Its a 2 day $3000 job that I won't be paying for. 900 miles left on the extended warranty. New brushes and contactor on the starter while they're in there? Ask if you can do it? Since the starter is in the worst spot and it may be accessible with the engine torn down for cam seals... Not sure if the intake comes off for those on the UZ family.
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Sep 11, 2017 03:27
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kastein posted:New brushes and contactor on the starter while they're in there? Ask if you can do it? Since the starter is in the worst spot and it may be accessible with the engine torn down for cam seals... Not sure if the intake comes off for those on the UZ family. Its actually a 3UR-FBE. Starter is in the normal v8 spot and easily accessible through the passenger wheel well. The cam tower is a lovely design. It sits on top of the head, holds the camshafts and the gasket on the bottom likes to leak oil right onto the exhaust. So all 4 cams have to come out, front cover has to come off to get to the timing chains, fan and accessories have to come off to get to the front cover, its just a mess.
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Sep 11, 2017 03:53
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I replaced a piece where the hood hinge mounts, then attached my repaired body mount. The cab is now securely mounted to the frame again, and I got a start on the flooring sheet metal before I took a break that ended up being quitting for the day. I think I have two more nights of sheet metal work and I'm finished. Well finished inside, after football season I'll replace the rockers, corners, find a new fender.....
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Sep 11, 2017 04:22
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EvilBeard posted:So pulled the bumper off, and replaced the grille and fog lights. I was impressed by what I got for the price. The fog lights were $35 on ebay and were actually direct replacement, and the $45 grille fit perfectly. My friend is a body guy, and he said it's one of the best he's had to deal with. He said tons of aftermarket body parts are trash and he's shocked companies can get away with selling them. I replaced the halogen bulbs in the fog lights with LED. The old ones were nasty. Your car looks good.
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Sep 11, 2017 15:49
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ExecuDork posted:I need to replace my fog lights, and $35 on eBay seems ideal for my budget. Rather different vehicle (97 Ranger) but if you have a recommendation for a seller or parts-maker I'd love to hear it. They came from a seller on eBay called dt_moto. The fog lights were from SpyderAuto (SpyderAuto.com).
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Sep 11, 2017 15:54
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Searching for a replacement sway-bar-link-to-control-arm-bolt took a turn:
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Sep 11, 2017 19:35
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Gotta get that free shipping
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Sep 11, 2017 19:46
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I ain't paying $4 shipping for a $1.60 bolt 
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Sep 11, 2017 20:31
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So my mom got a quote for around $125 to replace a swaybar endlink on her '07 DTS. I actually found that fairly reasonable because they broke it down in parts ($25 or so) and the rest labor. There was the usual swaybar "clunk" noise. Shops and business owners need to make money. So sleeping on it I got the bright eyed idea to replace them both since it would be like $13 for parts and hey, it's for my mother. Brownie points. So grab the car, put it up on ramps, cut them out (and yeah one side was bad) that was fairly easy. Got Moog replacements. Bolts too short about 1/2". After screwing around thinking I'm doing something wrong (the swaybar is unloaded on both ends at this point) I run to the local hardware store that usually bails me out with DIY poo poo gone wild and bad. Spend around $2 to fix the things. I actually find a bolt and nut that will work. Best part is the bolt I grabbed out of the bin had the same manufacturer stampings as the moog bolt supplied in the kit. tl;dr Got a local hardware store? The big suspension production places are getting the same bolts from your local hardware store.
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Sep 11, 2017 20:44
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C-Bangin' it
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What grade is that bolt?
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Sep 11, 2017 21:02
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EvilBeard posted:So pulled the bumper off, and replaced the grille and fog lights. I was impressed by what I got for the price. The fog lights were $35 on ebay and were actually direct replacement, and the $45 grille fit perfectly. My friend is a body guy, and he said it's one of the best he's had to deal with. He said tons of aftermarket body parts are trash and he's shocked companies can get away with selling them. I replaced the halogen bulbs in the fog lights with LED. The old ones were nasty. I don't even like 300s (specifically because of all of the chrome), but that looks drat good.
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Sep 11, 2017 21:06
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:What grade is that bolt? Same question. I know nothing about grades of fasteners, except that all are not equal in all applications, and the wrong grade in the wrong spot potentially leads to problems. Like, bolt sheared off or corroded to hell in 20 minutes of rain kinds of problems.
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Sep 11, 2017 21:11
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Dropped my wrench setting the timing and it landed right above the neutral safety switch and it killed the car. I didnt realise that would happen lol. Putting a magnet there is now in my bag of tricks to disable a car for lols or otherwise.
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Sep 11, 2017 21:52
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:What grade is that bolt? Five.
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Sep 12, 2017 02:51
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DogonCrook posted:Dropped my wrench setting the timing and it landed right above the neutral safety switch and it killed the car. I didnt realise that would happen lol. Putting a magnet there is now in my bag of tricks to disable a car for lols or otherwise. *eyes shift between a pile of old hard drive magnets and the neighbors' bro trucks*
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Sep 12, 2017 03:02
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Boys who love boys
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Colostomy Bag posted:Five. Yeah, take that bolt back out and replace it with a grade 8. Grade 5 is too weak to act as a suspension bolt. Also, if it was the front swaybar, there are 2 different possibilities depending on if your mother's caddy has heavy duty suspension or not. You can find out by looking in the spare tire well for the RPO code sheet and looking for a FE1 or FE3 on it. Also, if you can give me the part number of the moog kit you bought, I can double check that they gave you the right one once you find out if she has heavy duty suspension or not.
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Sep 12, 2017 03:25
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That seems really bizarre since a neutral safety switch should only lock out the starter, not the ignition.
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Sep 12, 2017 03:26
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IOwnCalculus posted:That seems really bizarre since a neutral safety switch should only lock out the starter, not the ignition. Yeah it doesnt really make sense to me either.
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Sep 12, 2017 03:46
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Yeah, take that bolt back out and replace it with a grade 8. Grade 5 is too weak to act as a suspension bolt. Car suspensions are full of "grade 5" ISO 8.8 bolts and they are perfectly fine if they have been properly dimensioned. Blanket statements like the above quote are nonsense.
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Sep 12, 2017 05:38
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Help me I am in hell. It took me two loving months to R/R headgaskets on my EZ30 Outback. The result: 
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Sep 12, 2017 06:56
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I don't even like 300s (specifically because of all of the chrome), but that looks drat good. Thanks. I think I'm going to get black headlight housings, and I'm considering removing the body trim to eliminate some more chrome. When I get my CNC machine finished, I'm thinking of making custom C badges to replace the trim. My projects are probably: 1. Headlights 2. 360A Mechman Alternator 3. New head unit, door and rear speakers, amplifier. Finish beauty panel for subwoofer. 4. Trim delete, probably going to dip the car for giggles this winter. 5. 22" wheels and new tires. EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 11:39 on Sep 12, 2017 |
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Sep 12, 2017 11:29
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Yeah, take that bolt back out and replace it with a grade 8. Grade 5 is too weak to act as a suspension bolt. Also, if it was the front swaybar, there are 2 different possibilities depending on if your mother's caddy has heavy duty suspension or not. You can find out by looking in the spare tire well for the RPO code sheet and looking for a FE1 or FE3 on it. Also, if you can give me the part number of the moog kit you bought, I can double check that they gave you the right one once you find out if she has heavy duty suspension or not. It's an end link, not a control arm. If it snaps it's not going to really hurt anything, you'll just have to do the job again. You poor bastard. 
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Sep 12, 2017 13:51
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Yes it's generalizing, but it's usually correct and better safe than sorry. I usually see 9.8 10.9 and 12.9 in suspension, not 8.8, too. Also an 07 GM product would almost certainly be metric not SAE so saying you put grade 5 in it worries me because you're using parts with the wrong strength *and* dimensions. Down that road lies the previous owner and his heehawed repairs... Learn your fasteners before working on suspension. At least it's just a swaybar, but yikes. rdb posted:Its actually a 3UR-FBE. Starter is in the normal v8 spot and easily accessible through the passenger wheel well. Oh cool, I didn't know they moved the starter to a sane place. Too bad about the cam seals though.
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Sep 12, 2017 15:17
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 Yesterday found my Hijet safe and sound in our guest house. Irma could have been so much worse.
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Sep 12, 2017 15:49
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Ok im gonna dig into this nuetral saftey switch killing the engine. The engine definetly died from loss of spark, no drama. I dropped it and it landed near the linkage adjuster(auto trans). I assumed nss because of the location and because it was magnitized to something. My grabber magnet wasnt strong enough to yank it i had to knock it free first. My nss is a 3 wire. Some went from there to a seatbelt safety switch then to the starter some went straight to the starter im not sure which i have. If mine did have the safety switch its possible they attempted to defeat it i havent checked yet. The previous owner was retarded as far as i can tell and i dont say that lightly so its safe to assume if they tried its wrong. I assume it functions, i moved the steering column a little and it locked me out of starting in park a week or two ago so basically its doing the job. So how does dropping a wrench from the back drivers side down onto the transmission kill a car? What could have happened? Like even if it made a 1 in million shot and landed in a way that shorted something it doesnt make sense. How could you gently caress up wiring an nss in such a way that it works but can also take out ignition on a running car, but then doesn't kill the engine in drive? Im thinking maybe he jacked up a killswitch attempt but i cant think of a way to build this circuit so it functions like this. I'm completely loving stumped. Im gonna look into it this week but what the hell am i even looking for? Any ideas on where i should start and what could have gone wrong here? 72 dart 318 with a 727 everything is stock. DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Sep 12, 2017 |
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Sep 12, 2017 21:02
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Yeah, take that bolt back out and replace it with a grade 8. Grade 5 is too weak to act as a suspension bolt. Also, if it was the front swaybar, there are 2 different possibilities depending on if your mother's caddy has heavy duty suspension or not. You can find out by looking in the spare tire well for the RPO code sheet and looking for a FE1 or FE3 on it. Also, if you can give me the part number of the moog kit you bought, I can double check that they gave you the right one once you find out if she has heavy duty suspension or not. Thanks...I'll give you my thoughts. 1) On the lookup and this was somewhat of odd one, it asked for the engine VIN. Granted this is somewhat normal but both engines were listed equally and well I'm not quite a stranger with the luxury makes. Perhaps it is armored, or a hearse, HD etc. Maybe screwed up there because it isn't my car. Guess I just felt "hey, this is the model that is quite common" and rolled with it given what is in stock. If that is the case, my bad. 2) As for the endlinks go, I view them as a consumable/sacrificial member and are going into a AL control arm. I wouldn't be surprised if a bolt of grade 8 would tear it. 3) The GM solution that rotted out was shall we say...typical GM. tl;dr I'll get the magic VIN number (I think it was an 9 or a Y) for a 2007 DTS. Moog part is K5255
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Sep 12, 2017 23:24
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Bought more poo poo for my Golf. New wheels daaaaaay!  And new tires daaaaaaaaaay!  If I've done my research correctly, the wheels were the factory "lightweight" option off of the Corrados so it's still factory! 
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Sep 13, 2017 19:30
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Colostomy Bag posted:Thanks...I'll give you my thoughts. The vin has nothing to do with it and is only useful in telling you the engine size unless you are at a dealership. The RPO code sheet on the other hand lists every option that a gm vehicle shipped with and can be used to determine what possible suspension, brake or other options your vehicle came from the factory with. In any event, the end link you purchased is for a vehicle without heavy duty suspension. Since this part does not fit, it stands to reason that you do have heavy duty suspension.
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Sep 13, 2017 21:06
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Cop Porn Popper posted:The vin has nothing to do with it and is only useful in telling you the engine size unless you are at a dealership. The RPO code sheet on the other hand lists every option that a gm vehicle shipped with and can be used to determine what possible suspension, brake or other options your vehicle came from the factory with. In any event, the end link you purchased is for a vehicle without heavy duty suspension. Since this part does not fit, it stands to reason that you do have heavy duty suspension. So out of the sake of curiosity, can you yank both kits out from stock and measure the length and hardness? Yeah, that sounds bad and what she said, but I'm actually curious on this. FE7 will be the HD suspension code.
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Sep 13, 2017 21:48
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Post the VIN, I can pull the full RPO list as built.
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Sep 13, 2017 22:18
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Larrymer posted:Post the VIN, I can pull the full RPO list as built. I can but it will take a week since it isn't my car. Once I get it I'll PM you. I'm actually drat curious about it all.
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Sep 13, 2017 22:21
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Ok, http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/cadillac,2007,dts,4.6l+v8,1433650,suspension,stabilizer+bar+link,7580 Or maybe this...ACDELCO 46G0001A {#88876357} Advantage would be the correct part. It has the plastic collar that allows them to rust out earlier along with the weird 1 3/8" top "nut" thing. I stand corrected with anything else I said in regards to the quality or length of the bolts due to my own ignorance. Colostomy Bag fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Sep 13, 2017 |
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Sep 13, 2017 22:52
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New brakes all around on the FXT. One rear stud was lightly stripped so I ordered a die to recut the end thread, and a 20 new lug nuts because it was the same price as just three individual ones.  
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Sep 13, 2017 23:52
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It is possible to change the lug studs on those without removing the hub from the wheelbearing. The rear is kind of annoying because you have to disassemble the parking brake, but it is doable.
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Sep 14, 2017 02:58
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Colostomy Bag posted:So out of the sake of curiosity, can you yank both kits out from stock and measure the length and hardness? Yeah, that sounds bad and what she said, but I'm actually curious on this. FE7 will be the HD suspension code. Uh, honestly I had planned on yanking them down and measuring, but I was going flat out the entire time at work with people needing storm recovery junk and our normal mid month workload. I'll try to get it friday when I'm back in, but from the pictures on our site, the bolt is a zinc coated one, so likely 10.9 or higher. The one you have in there now would likely be useable short term, but I'd swap it out with a proper replacement when you have a chance.
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Sep 14, 2017 03:30
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chrisgt posted:It is possible to change the lug studs on those without removing the hub from the wheelbearing. The rear is kind of annoying because you have to disassemble the parking brake, but it is doable. I do have another stud but i want to try and chase the thread first. It's not too bad and might save a bunch of time
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Sep 14, 2017 15:32
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I went back to trying to figure out why the steering in the B8 S4 clunks. I found a couple videos on youtube of people with the exact same issue. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ihJrqbb3Zzc is the best example thereof. In that vid comment section it says he replaced the intermediate steering shaft and it fixed it. I lubed the two u-joints in mine and lubed the boot where the shaft goes through the firewall, but if anything it just amplified the clunking now. The only thing I can think is that the u-joint need bearings developed flat spots and pop/clunk over those spots. This issue is super annoying. edit: oh holy poo poo. I went down to the garage with full intention of yanking out the intermediate shaft (and likely rendering the car useless) to rebuild the u-joints on it. Pulled the under tray and saw that the u-joint closest to the rack was rusty and crusty as hell. Sprayed with half a can of wd-40 and the clunking went away. Finished with some dry grease. Guess I just needed to have a do-or-die mindset. Thankfully, because I don't think I have whatever esoteric triple square socket/bit I need to undo the shaft clamps either...  Edit: needs a picture Garage2Roadtrip fucked around with this message at 22:19 on Sep 14, 2017 |
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Sep 14, 2017 17:06
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Replaced the A/C Compressor and filled her up. Finally, after six years, I have working AC! I also shortened the exhaust a bit so that the rear pipe doesn't stick out as far. No pictures of the wrenching, but here's a picture of the car at a local C&C event. 
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Sep 14, 2017 20:32
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My goodness. I'll never get tired of the racey Audi blues
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Sep 14, 2017 20:46
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afen posted:Replaced the A/C Compressor and filled her up. Finally, after six years, I have working AC! Speedlines 
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Sep 14, 2017 22:04
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