|
Yeah, the door is already installed. It's just the opener that I need to do. 100% agree though, if it wasn't, well, gently caress that. The ceiling is buttoned up, but I don't think I'll have a trouble finding a truss to attach the supports to. I'll just keep my eyes open for a cheapo opener on sale to attach to it.
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2017 17:47
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 04:28 |
|
|
If the door is already working smoothly and can be opened and closed by hand easily, then installing an opener is a piece of cake. I've done several for myself and friends. There are a couple weird scenarios where it's hard to install but most construction takes an opener into consideration when building. Just remember all the force (which really shouldn't be much) is taken at the header of the garage door, the motor box really just hangs from the ceiling. Or if you want to be a super cool guy get a shaft drive opener: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wlssvr9irfQ
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2017 18:15
|
|
|
I missed the important word, 'opener'. That's what I get for reading and posting before drinking coffee. It's totally doable if the door is already installed. Woh, I'd never seen a shaft mounted opener before, that's awesome.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2017 22:08
|
|
|
Only like a hundred more than a traditional one too, not bad. https://www.amazon.com/LiftMaster-8...ft+mount+opener
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2017 02:15
|
|
|
I like that it has an electric deadbolt too.
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2017 05:42
|
|
|
Garage2Roadtrip posted:Only like a hundred more than a traditional one too, not bad. https://www.amazon.com/LiftMaster-8...ft+mount+opener I had one of these installed at the old house as well as raising the tracks as close to the ceiling as possible. I loved it and will probably stick one in this house eventually. It's quiet, frees up space and the deadbolt Ohrmazd mentions is a nice feature. I did have to replace my deadbolt a couple years after it was installed because the bolt wouldn't retract due to cracked actuator. I bought mine on eBay through Open Door Enterprises for $309 shipped after I was quoted $375 if the installer bought it. Here's their current listing - http://www.ebay.com/itm/8500-LiftMa...10AAOSwjMJXCTyA
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2017 12:39
|
|
|
That's really cool and the specs say it will easily lift my 12x12 shop doors. I like the design too, I mean that's clearly more efficient to drive the shaft directly right?
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2017 15:28
|
|
|
That is kind of neat, it's sort of like a little shaft mounted gearbox. I doubt I'll go anything like that as the door is rarely used, in fact I'm not even sure I'll get one now as I'll probably only use it a handful of times a year. The passthru bay was incredibly handy with doing the yard in the new house, afterwards I'm not so sure. But if I find a cheap opener for $100 or so I probably will just for the sake of completing it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2017 16:06
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:If the door is already working smoothly and can be opened and closed by hand easily, then installing an opener is a piece of cake. I've done several for myself and friends. There are a couple weird scenarios where it's hard to install but most construction takes an opener into consideration when building. Seconding.When I built my new garage in 2003-2004, I installed the door & hardware myself; just pay attention to the directions and be sure to have adequate support for the mass of the door in the open position. I used IPI joists to support the loft area, so this meant installing sandwich blocking on the stringers of the joists to hold the track supports. Once installed and operating smoothly, it takes very little force to lift the door. I installed a Clopay door with a torque tube. It takes about ten pounds of hoist to lift it. Installing an opener later was straightforward; the only part I had to knock together was the hanger system for the door motor. Again, I sandwiched 2x4 on the joist gussets and hung perforated angle iron. The drive track bolts to the header, so that when the motor's running, it translates the (minimal) door load horizontally, forward, to the door header. Aside from being careful to hang the angle-irons for the motor within a few inches of where the drive track puts the motor unit in relation to the header, the only issue was adjusting the opening & closing heights (pots on the motor housing)...and getting the damned safety beams to intersect properly. I tried not installing them back then, but the opener would not operate without them installed. In retrospect it was dumb to try this, and I have no regrets - they've never been a problem (not counting the occasional cobweb/leaf that somehow drops over one side)...I grew up with my parent's ancient Alliance Genie, which dated from the early 60s, and had a tube-driven remote receiver mounted behind the tractor motor, and a giant remote that took a weird 12V mercury battery. Needless to say, it had zero safety features. You had better be out of the way when it closed. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Sep 18, 2017 |
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2017 16:31
|
|
|
Garage2Roadtrip posted:I have a gate like this on my driveway: Thanks, I also checked with a local friend who put a gate in and apparently he had problems with that Mighty Mule all in one unit and swapped to the slightly more expensive Might Mule that has the control box separate with 4 years now of zero problems. I am either going to end up getting the gate you linked or possibly a similar one from co-op.
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2017 23:50
|
|
|
Millionth-ing that installing an opener is a piece of cake. I did a belt-drive Chamberlain at the old house we were renting, was a breeze. Totally going to do the shaft drive at the new house, though! It has a low ceiling and getting rid of the opener would really help.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2017 00:08
|
|
|
DEUCE SLUICE posted:Millionth-ing that installing an opener is a piece of cake. I did a belt-drive Chamberlain at the old house we were renting, was a breeze. What's everyone doing for shelves? If I ever finish on the house renovation stuff shelves will be the first project for the garage. Not sure if I should build some out of lumber or pick up costco/sams/etc metal shelving. Need to be able to hold a good amount of weight on a couple shelves but can't be too deep. Something cheap for basic junk on her side of the garage will work but I'll be storing transmissions and engine parts on mine.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2017 11:48
|
|
|
Got a welder? we made a set for a mate out of 1" square tubing and 3/4" ply for the shelves. Bespoke shelves are the best shelves.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2017 15:18
|
|
|
Industrial metal shelves are the way to go, but I lucked out as I got a few when my shop moved location. They cost a pretty penny to buy new. I'd probably just keep my eyes open on craigs/kijiji. I went to the dump a couple weeks ago to turf my old BBQ and they directed me to the scrap steel area to unload it. It was sad because there was about 12 shop shelves, complete and seemingly in excellent shape just sitting there in the scrap pile. I would have taken them but the dump has a strict no removal policy.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2017 16:58
|
|
|
slidebite posted:Industrial metal shelves are the way to go, but I lucked out as I got a few when my shop moved location. They cost a pretty penny to buy new. I'd probably just keep my eyes open on craigs/kijiji. Always take sandbags to the scrap yard so you can balance what you're borrowing on the scale. Be discrete. Also, yeah, shaft drive door openers own, I have that model that was linked earlier with the dead bolt, they are fantastic and help me to clear the area needed by the two lifts in my shop.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2017 17:27
|
|
|
heh, that would be tough with a whole vehicle scale, including trailer. I think it's about 40' long  They should have a free-cycle area though, that kind of thing is such a waste. I remember as a kid going to the dump with my brother and some guy was rolling an old Norton (or something) British military bike out of the back of his truck telling my brother "he was loving sick and tired of working on it" I don't doubt that he was... but I'm sure someone would have taken it. e: Oh you mean dumping the sand 
slidebite fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Sep 18, 2017 |
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2017 19:58
|
|
|
I've had a crazy busy 4 years since buying this place, and my pile-o-scrap material has gotten extreme. I bought this cheap material rack a few weeks ago and finally put it together...I think it will do nicely. It was missing most of the assembly hardware, but nothing I couldn't replace from the mixed bolt and nut bin. I'll spare you any before pictures, it was pretty  . Apparently the stuff on the bottom was getting wet and staying that way.  As you can see, it's not done. Some of that is now junk. Anyway its nice to finally start getting this place organized, been making other improvements I'll post up eventually. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2017 01:09
|
|
|
I currently have a ~ 2000sq' under-house garage that I use as my primary shop and daily driver storage. As I'm getting more into welding and metal fabrication, my wife and I are questioning the safety (more like acknowledging the distinct lack of safety) of doing that under the house and decided it's time to build an outbuilding to be my shop/garage/project area. She also wants some climate controlled space for her emerging hobbies as well, so this will end up benefiting both of us. The current garage looks like this, and houses our daily drivers, my tool room area, all my machine tools, my lift, and a couple project cars.  Currently outside, there's one of these three-stall barn-port things. I store the dually and overflow project cars out there currently. It's sitting on a gravel pad and is ~ 35'w x 26'd.  The prevailing plan is to dismantle the barn-port and move it/reassemble it into our lower pasture where it will serve as an actual barn and put a new building in its current location. We plan on having chickens and goats in the not-to-distant future. I'll build a wood rear wall and a wood front wall with a barn door on it down there when I fence the pastures in. We also have a 20'x40' RV barn that I keep the toy hauler in (orange circle) and I'll probably store the dually down there next to the camper.  So, on the spot that the barn-port is being moved from we'll have someone come in and pour a slab and erect a metal building. The one we like the most right now is a 30'w x 40'l x 12'h with two 10x7 doors and two windows and one man door. The company we looked at is offering that on a concrete pad for $11,450. I need to talk to them about pad thickness and such because I plan to put a 2-post lift in on one side, and leave the other side open for a mobile gantry crane and my current scissor lift. This is what the building looks like, but I want more neutral colors, probably brown like my current ones.  I'm going to extend the gravel driveway over to it, and that will be about $1,000 in crushed granite gravel for a 30'x55' area with 3" bedding sand and 3" or gravel on top of that. The bonus is I'm cutting into all the mowable grass we have, which is approximately 3 acres worth right now.  We don't plan to plumb the building for water because of the (lack of) proximity to our well and septic tank. But I want to run 200A electrical at a minimum to it. I haven't talked to the electric coop yet about how that needs to be done. We have underground power on my property, and I'm, not sure if they can make another run from one of the existing utility boxes in the yard, or what.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2017 15:34
|
|
|
They'll probably have to run it from the house panel if that's where the transformer feeds to. Not a huge deal for a competent contractor. If you have natural gas at your property, definitely run a line out to the shop at the same time. A nice heated workshop is absolutely worth it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2017 15:40
|
|
|
Slung Blade posted:They'll probably have to run it from the house panel if that's where the transformer feeds to. Not a huge deal for a competent contractor. Sadly, we're in the land of no natural gas. I might do heating oil if heavy heating becomes a necessity, our house is electric/heat pump only with a wood stove for backup. Between A/C in the summer and heat in the winter our electric bill is pretty static, for whatever that's worth. The metal building company is running a special on "buy a building with insulation, get a heater or an A/C unit for free". Will have to think about that one, but probably heat since I can open doors and use fans in the summer. The only potential issue I see with the house panel is a) it's full. They'd have to wire a secondary panel with feeds to output to the garage. And b) the current input to the house and meter goes under my concrete parking apron, and I don't want to dig it up to run back out the the garage. I'm not against having a second meter on the new building if that's what it comes down to.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2017 15:45
|
|
|
Based on that, if I was drawing this up as your electric coop, assuming the power comes down in the vicinity of your driveway (probable since you said the meter base was on that side) - I'd add an access vault mid-span across from the shop and dig a service over to it. Assuming the conductor size is adequate of course. If it isn't, may have to dig all the way from the road, unless you're lucky and the existing service happens to be in pipe. Edit - the utility boxes in the yard, what do they look like and what is their location?
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2017 16:58
|
|
|
angryrobots posted:If it isn't, may have to dig all the way from the road, unless you're lucky and the existing service happens to be in pipe. I'm fairly in the dark (har har) about what is actually going on with my power. There's above ground electrical wires on my road, but for my property and the ones above me, it dives off the pole here (blue) and comes up through my property and there's a utility box here and here (red). My power meter is between my current garage doors here (orange).  The utility box halfway down the driveway doesn't hum and is this:  The utility box near the house hums, and therefore I assume is the transformer, and is this:  And the power meter is here, and the line going to it can be seen disappearing into the slab: 
Garage2Roadtrip fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Oct 12, 2017 |
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2017 17:04
|
|
|
The small box that doesn't hum is a high voltage junction cabinet. The second one is the transformer, yes. 15 kva. You're golden on utility power. They can run straight from the transformer to your building. No idea on your cost - every coop handles that differently. Here it would be $300 flat fee for up to 150', and $2 per foot beyond that.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2017 17:56
|
|
|
angryrobots posted:The small box that doesn't hum is a high voltage junction cabinet. The second one is the transformer, yes. 15 kva. Awesome, thanks for the info! Looks like I'll be in good shape if those kind of numbers hold up around here. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2017 18:02
|
|
|
Is liquid propane available where you live? I'd probably go with that over heating oil if available. Another option, since I'm good at spending everyone else's money, you could do radiant heating in the floor. It looks from your collection that you might spend enough time wrenching to be able to justify a heated shop. If you were concerned about cost you could always have the radiant lines in the slab and pressure tested, and then worry about the boiler/whatever down the road. On garage journal there was a dude in ohio keeping his 45x60 house/shop at 70+ degrees with radiant heating in the slab, spray-foam insulation, and an outdoor woodburner back in '14 or whenever there was a cold winter. I was really impressed. Here's the thread, it's a cool read: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=226535
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2017 13:44
|
|
|
dreesemonkey posted:Is liquid propane available where you live? I'd probably go with that over heating oil if available. So, when I lived in Alaska I had radiant slab heating in my house, which had a 3 car underneath garage, and the outside 3-car had in-slab heating as well. It was all hydronic baseboard boiler-style heating, the house boiler had a circuit for the home in floor, and a waterheater was used in the outside garage. It was great for when the temps dipped below freezing. Here, just west of Asheville, NC, it doesn't get nearly that cold, and it doesn't get that cold for very long. I think I'd rather forgo the extra cost of the radiant in-floor for just a plain ol' electric garage heater. If I need to take the edge off, I can always use those radiant propane things, which I still have a few of from my time in AK. Here's some data I pulled from weather underground for the last 12 months here: 
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2017 13:54
|
|
|
The weather around here is weirdly stable compared to most of the country; not that hot in the summer and we barely get a winter in Asheville. I do miss the hard winters in Ohio but it's pretty nice being able to work in the garage with regular noninsulated coveralls in the winter with a small space heater running. Super interested to see how your shop comes together, that'd be a killer deal for if/when I buy property here. MonkeyNutZ fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Oct 13, 2017 |
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2017 15:51
|
|
|
Garage2Roadtrip posted:So, when I lived in Alaska I had radiant slab heating in my house, which had a 3 car underneath garage, and the outside 3-car had in-slab heating as well. It was all hydronic baseboard boiler-style heating, the house boiler had a circuit for the home in floor, and a waterheater was used in the outside garage. It was great for when the temps dipped below freezing. Here, just west of Asheville, NC, it doesn't get nearly that cold, and it doesn't get that cold for very long. I think I'd rather forgo the extra cost of the radiant in-floor for just a plain ol' electric garage heater. If I need to take the edge off, I can always use those radiant propane things, which I still have a few of from my time in AK. Yea that's a good point, no real reason to bother if you're in NC. On the other hand, it's great to know that radiant works well even in Alaska!
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2017 16:00
|
|
|
MonkeyNutZ posted:Super interested to see how your shop comes together, that'd be a killer deal for if/when I buy property here. I received quotes ranging from 12k-17k with concrete for that size shop. The negative reviews I saw for the companies on the cheaper end of the spectrum deal exclusively with the assembly of the structure, not the materials, pad, etc. I feel like if we're on this part of this forum, we have the ability to identify deficiencies and correct them with something as simple as galvanized square stock, sheet metal siding, and tek screws. If all pads are equal (a lot of these guys outsource concrete work), and I level the pad myself, I don't mind saving $5,000 to have to spend a few hours going over the building to make sure it doesn't fall in on me. Also, someone mentioned it earlier, but these are just fully boxed-in carports for all intents and purposes (albeit with some additional bracing and insulation etc). I'm keeping an eye on the load values they claim for the roof, but even that isn't a huge deal with the amount of roof pitch and lack of snow we get here.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2017 16:22
|
|
|
I probably wouldn't bother either. I think anything 40-80 degrees is pretty comfortable to work in.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2017 16:57
|
|
|
A bigger concern is heat/humidity in the summer. My current thinking is to get a few fans and just keep some airflow in there. Luckily half of the building will be pretty well shaded from the treeline adjacent to it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2017 17:05
|
|
|
Made some progress on organization over the weekend, filled two of the four costco shelves we picked up. Will probably rearrange the parts/tools/fluid/misc shelf since it's a mess right now but I was mostly trying to get things off the floor and race car.  Now I've started thinking about wiring which will be the next big project. Have an electrician friend coming over this weekend so I'll run all this by him and hiring him to make sure I don't burn the place down. No picture of the breaker box but it's a 100 amp and is completely full, I plan to add a 100 amp sub-panel directly below it. Two 220v runs (welder and spare) then four 20/30A runs, with each side of the garage getting a outlet and lighting breaker. Outlets mounted at least 4' off floor, had that in last garage and I'll never have low outlets in a garage again. Construction is cinder block so I'll be surface mounting the outlets, leaning toward 3/4" EMT. Probably 1/2" armored flex cable for the light runs between LED enclosures. Is armored flex overkill for running in the ceiling? NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 17:00 on Oct 16, 2017 |
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2017 16:57
|
|
|
After spending last winter freezing our asses off even with the stove and a diesel heater going, my father and I have begun a shop project to help combat the heat loss of a sheet-metal clad building that has no insulation or sealing of any kind. For some reason he decided to wear camo while doing it.  Ever seen roof trusses on 40" centres? Well, now you have. The building is from that magic time just before building codes became a thing I guess.  These two were a great help, they spent the whole day supervising. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2017 23:42
|
|
|
That camo WORKS
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2017 00:20
|
|
|
Garage2Roadtrip posted:That camo WORKS Worst part is he spent all day telling me how he's worn that shirt for three days because it's cotton and feels great... It's my shirt.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2017 00:22
|
|
|
Fermented Tinal posted:Worst part is he spent all day telling me how he's worn that shirt for three days because it's cotton and feels great... Lol, gotta smell natural for seer season tho...
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2017 00:26
|
|
|
Fermented Tinal posted:It's my shirt.  Thanks, dad
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2017 17:20
|
|
|
Not perfect, but the building was far from that to begin with. Got as far as we could, considering that we still need one more sheet of steel due to bad math, forgot to wire up an outlet for the last two lights, and still have to put in insulation.  All the random black spots are cluster flies disturbed from their overwintering hideaways since we pulled down a bunch of shelving covered in mouldering wood and raccoon poo poo. Had to use a 1/4" ratchet to put in the screws above the lift, which we also realized after having used it like this for a few years, we never actually bothered to tension the cables properly (which explained why one side was always 2" lower than the other) or tighten the top bar's bolts... That's fixed now.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2017 02:19
|
|
|
Garage2Roadtrip posted:shop stuff You said you don't plan to run water to the shop, have you thought about a rain reclamation system? My friend's dad just has his gutters running to a collection barrel which then runs to a tank inside. He doesn't drink it but has it plumbed to a faucet so he can wash oil and whatnot off before going inside the house. I think he just uses iodine tablets to treat the water in the tank.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2017 06:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 04:28 |
|
|
Rhyno posted:You said you don't plan to run water to the shop, have you thought about a rain reclamation system? My friend's dad just has his gutters running to a collection barrel which then runs to a tank inside. He doesn't drink it but has it plumbed to a faucet so he can wash oil and whatnot off before going inside the house. I think he just uses iodine tablets to treat the water in the tank. Grey water system like this is really easy to plumb and works good for outbuildings. Dad did this when he built the detached instead of running water/sewer from the house. Has a priming bulb you step on to provide water and it all drains into a 5 gallon bucket he empties as needed. Super simple and compact setup with two 55-gallon drums, one for water one for sink/bucket.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2017 11:40
|
|