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My 05 Ranger had a radio that looked like this: Today I got this at a thrift store for $5:  Went to put it in and:  As you can see from the picture, it plugs right in and works fine, but the faceplate is too big and it has a bracket on the bottom, rather than clips on the side like the original. Are there any adapters or replacement faceplates that would let me install this radio into my truck? I've been hoping to snag a cassette player for a while, so I'd be quite happy if I could make this work.
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Aug 9, 2017 02:17
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I ended up buying the Cerwin Vega VPAS10 compact sub/amp. 200W RMS, 10" sub, bass control knob and good reviews on amazon. it was cheap too, but wont be here for a few weeks. Will report back with results once its installed.
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Aug 9, 2017 03:16
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Ive got an old car i want to put a system in but im limited to 65 amps. I was thinking just 6x9's on the rear tray and kick panels up front, and then an amp to run it it. Do i have enough power to do this, and if i do whats a good balanced setup speaker wise? If not, i can go past 65 amps but the problem is everything goes through an ammeter. If i go over 65 i havent found an ammeter that can handle it so i would have to do a voltmeter which imo isnt as cool.
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Aug 9, 2017 03:49
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Pham Nuwen posted:My 05 Ranger had a radio that looked like this: That black bezel around the head unit and hvac controls comes off quite easily. I'd suggest removing it to see if you can secure the new head unit to something and then clip the bezel in to the front of the new radio. Perhaps you could shave some plastic to fit it.
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Aug 9, 2017 03:55
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DogonCrook posted:Ive got an old car i want to put a system in but im limited to 65 amps. I was thinking just 6x9's on the rear tray and kick panels up front, and then an amp to run it it. Do i have enough power to do this, and if i do whats a good balanced setup speaker wise? You're fine running a small amp for those - you may not even need one, the built in amp on a name brand head unit (Alpine, Kenwood, JVC, Pioneer basically) is generally decent these days. Not sure on speakers... I have Polk DXi coaxials up front (stock in rear) in my car and like them, and they're affordable.
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Aug 9, 2017 04:54
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Im going to rewire the car this winter and when i do that im going to put a vintage look one. For now i was thinking of getting one of the bluetooth only ones and they only put out like 22 watts at the high end, is that enough? 25 was the min on the 6x9's i was looking at. When i pull it back out its going in a tiny car that only has room for 2 speakers and it should be just fine for that. Thats kinda why i was thinking of going the amp route. Plus its old so road noise is pretty bad.
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Aug 9, 2017 05:45
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DogonCrook posted:Im going to rewire the car this winter and when i do that im going to put a vintage look one. For now i was thinking of getting one of the bluetooth only ones and they only put out like 22 watts at the high end, is that enough? 25 was the min on the 6x9's i was looking at. When i pull it back out its going in a tiny car that only has room for 2 speakers and it should be just fine for that. Thats kinda why i was thinking of going the amp route. Plus its old so road noise is pretty bad. I just put a 4-channel amp in my car, sending two channels to the fronts and bridging the other two to a cheap sub in the trunk. It sounds good, and you'll run a 4-channel on 60 amps just fine. 200 watts bridged to a prefab 10" sub will be plenty loud in a small car and a whole setup with wiring will run you maybe $3-400 minus the head unit? If you're set on the rear-deck 6x9s there are low/mid-bass woofers you can buy, but I heard putting coaxials in the rear of a car can sound weird and unbalanced because of how directional the highs are.
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Aug 9, 2017 06:42
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I think thats whats in there now i could be wrong though. Its a 72 dart swinger so its bigish. I really dont care what goes in there all i really care about is that it sounds good and that i can hide as much as possible or at least have it not look jarring on an original. Im open to suggestions for all of it really.
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Aug 9, 2017 08:31
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Is dynamat good for solving my trunk rattling issue? I only want to be 51% douchebag.
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Aug 13, 2017 01:46
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Goobish posted:Is dynamat good for solving my trunk rattling issue? I only want to be 51% douchebag. Dynamat can help, but it's not directly addressing that issue. Unless you're just literally putting it between the things that are rattling, which ... it's kind of expensive for something that any old rubber sheet will handle.
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Aug 15, 2017 02:57
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Open cell foam is also kinda useful for stuff like rear decks where you have a plastic or cardboard layer on top of a steel layer to stop poo poo from rattling.
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Aug 15, 2017 04:41
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A few years back my dad gave me his old amp + subs from a car he no longer had. Bunch of Phoenix Gold kit. Sounds pretty decent, but his current rig which is more or less comparable sounds WAY better*. He's of the belief that the only difference is the box the subs are in; his is built for his current car, mine is built for his old car which is not my current car. So I'm looking at the project of building a new box for those subs + my trunk. I work in a wood shop and can physically construct a box, but I gather there's internal volume math and poo poo that I need to use to design the shape + size of the thing. Where do I start with something like this? The model of sub isn't on PG's site anymore, which doesn't help. *I lack the audio vocabulary to explain why his sounds better. Clearer maybe?
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Aug 29, 2017 05:14
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Have you tried contacting Phoenix Gold? They may be able to give you info on it. I assume you've already typed the model # into google, right? Email them at support@phoenixgold.com The interior volume definitely matters, but if the existing box was built for that sub, you may want to double check and make sure your high pass filter or crossover is setup correctly. Most boxes aren't really built specifically for one vehicle (when they are, it's usually to use space more effectively, or for show). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:58 on Aug 29, 2017 |
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Aug 29, 2017 06:55
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Well the main "for this car" difference is that it was designed to sit so the subs pointed more or less directly into the back seat (By eyeball ~15 degrees up from straight forward), but my trunk is shallower so the box can't be oriented that way. They're Xmax 10s. I did google and found reviews and forum threads but nowhere with "give it this many cubic inches" type stats. Most of the posts are from the early 00s so these may have been out of production for a while. A friend who is into this stuff says they like .3-.5 cu ft each so based on that I need .6-1.0 cu ft for a box with both? I have no idea where he pulled those numbers from. By my rough eyeball the box they're in is within the lower end of that range, anyway.
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Aug 29, 2017 07:31
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Can y'all fit an autotuba in your car? I have the home theatre version in my house and it's cranked up to maybe 1/10 and it's stupidly loud and clear, absolutely minimal distorion, just pure bass. And it has an 8" JBL in it. Throwing a large, power-hungry driver in a box is all well and good but when you build the box around the driver you end up with far better performance using gently caress all power. I use this dude's design for my PA kit and the entire system (4 Omnitop12 tops, 2x Titan 39 and 2x Tuba 60 subs) runs 116db at the back of the room using a mere 1000w of power. http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/AutoTruckTuba.html This site has a few calculators though, great website if a little 90s internet looking: http://www.bcae1.com/spboxnew2.htm http://www.bcae1.com/spboxad2.htm As for his new system sounding better, it probably distorts less or is down to something as simple as having the correct phase, crossover and having things delayed properly so all the noise arrives at his ears at the right time. That's stuff most car audio people ignore and is the kind of poo poo that makes the most difference.
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Aug 29, 2017 12:48
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Javid posted:Well the main "for this car" difference is that it was designed to sit so the subs pointed more or less directly into the back seat (By eyeball ~15 degrees up from straight forward), but my trunk is shallower so the box can't be oriented that way. The frequencies a subwoofer outputs are omnidirectional, what direction they point doesn't really matter. The space ratings are fungible a bit depending on how efficient the box design is and you can tweak things a bit by using things like polyfill stuffing. I'd focus on re-tuning the amplifier and your head unit first, something probably isn't dialed-in properly.
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Aug 29, 2017 22:14
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Can y'all fit an autotuba in your car? I have the home theatre version in my house and it's cranked up to maybe 1/10 and it's stupidly loud and clear, absolutely minimal distorion, just pure bass. And it has an 8" JBL in it. Throwing a large, power-hungry driver in a box is all well and good but when you build the box around the driver you end up with far better performance using gently caress all power. I use this dude's design for my PA kit and the entire system (4 Omnitop12 tops, 2x Titan 39 and 2x Tuba 60 subs) runs 116db at the back of the room using a mere 1000w of power. Main reason for using a larger cone is that it's better at producing lower frequencies, not necessarily how loud it can get.
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Aug 29, 2017 22:16
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MikeyTsi posted:Main reason for using a larger cone is that it's better at producing lower frequencies, not necessarily how loud it can get. Not true my dude. It can move more air but the enclosure determines the frequency. (And also loudness, google Hoffman's iron law) I have 2 designs of this guy's PA subs, both use the exact same driver (Eminence Lab 12 if you want to play at home). The Titan 39 will hit 45hz real loud. The Tuba 60 will go down to 25hz pretty loud. Same driver, different enclosure. It's the cab design that makes all the difference. The home theatre sub I have has an 8" JBL GTO804 driver, it'll get down to 30hz with authority using naff all power. It's all enclosure design. There's a buttload of information out there so I'm not surprised untruths get bandied about so much, not ragging on you dude, just wishing to inform. Knowledge is power and all that poo poo.
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Aug 29, 2017 22:35
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Okay so I'm redoing my power supply wiring to my stereo/amps/accessories since I'm overloading the OEM 20A stereo circuit. Is the following kosher? The accessory fuse box (not OEM) I am adding is going to be powered by an old 4ga amp line I ran into the cabin. The fuse box is capable of 100A total and 30A per fuse slot. I plan on using two 30A fused lines to feed the 500W amp on both the power and ground side. That should be enough, right? How about the dashcam I also plan to run? Will that be affected by the large draw by the amplifier? The amp will be fed with 14ga out of the fuse box merging to 8ga. The dashcam will use 14ga if it matters. TLDR has anyone used an accessory feeding on an amp line with any ill effects?
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Aug 29, 2017 22:46
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um excuse me posted:Okay so I'm redoing my power supply wiring to my stereo/amps/accessories since I'm overloading the OEM 20A stereo circuit. Is the following kosher? Is your line direct from the battery? Doing a quick calculation, your feed seems fine since 100A at 14.4V gives you a ceiling of 1440W (right)? Even if you drop down to 12V you're still getting 1200W, which should be plenty. However, if you're doing 30A at 14.4V x2, that's 432W, so not quite enough to hit peak on your amplifier. I'm not sure how much that matters to you. You should have plenty available space, so your other accessories probably aren't going to care about the draw provided your electrical source can provide enough juice to match demand.
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Aug 30, 2017 02:19
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Not true my dude. It can move more air but the enclosure determines the frequency. (And also loudness, google Hoffman's iron law) I dont know if they still have them but bose stores used to have a display for the wave radio that let you crank the speaker out of the enclosure, which i know is a bit gimmicky, but the difference is pretty impressive especially since those speakers arent much bigger or better than whats in a clock radio.
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Aug 30, 2017 03:02
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There's a YouTube video out there of a guy in which he builds a transmission line box around an 8" Cadence subwoofer and sticks it in his car. The resulting window flex is getting on for dual Type R 12s and a ported box territory. Edit: Now I'm not phone posting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kM18jf6GFyM Don Dongington fucked around with this message at 08:15 on Aug 30, 2017 |
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Aug 30, 2017 03:47
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MikeyTsi posted:Is your line direct from the battery? Line is directly to the battery, yes.
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Aug 30, 2017 04:04
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Don Dongington posted:There's a YouTube video out there of a guy in which he builds a transmission line box around an 8" Cadence subwoofer and sticks it in his car. The resulting window flex is getting on for dual Type R 12s and a ported box territory. Theres also these which are pretty small. https://techcrunch.com/2014/12/22/devialet-phantom/ They run off 220 which puts it over the top price wise because youll have to wire your living room too, but they are pretty impressive. Ive heard its overpriced and good studio speakera can match it far cheaper but man it looks cool too.
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Aug 30, 2017 04:10
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um excuse me posted:The accessory fuse box (not OEM) I am adding is going to be powered by an old 4ga amp line I ran into the cabin. The fuse box is capable of 100A total and 30A per fuse slot. I plan on using two 30A fused lines to feed the 500W amp on both the power and ground side. That should be enough, right? How about the dashcam I also plan to run? Will that be affected by the large draw by the amplifier? The amp will be fed with 14ga out of the fuse box merging to 8ga. The dashcam will use 14ga if it matters. Don't fuse the negative. You never want to fuse a negative, neutral, ground, etc in a car or in residential wiring. Only the hot/positive. The dashcam may or may not be affected, depending on the power supply you use with it. I would think anything else in the car would be equally affected by the amp, though, assuming beefy wiring to your fuse box. Don't run two 14 gauge wires to an amp instead of a single 8 gauge (or worse, 14 gauge to 8 gauge - I can't quite tell which you intended to do); if one of those wires breaks, gets disconnected, corroded, etc, you still have a single 14 gauge wire fused at 30 amps. Go with a proper fuse block that's meant for beefy wire; save money in other places (use welding cable instead of Monster Cable OFC copper, for example). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:59 on Aug 30, 2017 |
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Aug 30, 2017 06:40
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DogonCrook posted:I dont know if they still have them but bose stores used to have a display for the wave radio that let you crank the speaker out of the enclosure, which i know is a bit gimmicky, but the difference is pretty impressive especially since those speakers arent much bigger or better than whats in a clock radio. Horns are basically passive amplification, you can do some cool poo poo with them if they're designed correctly. The Bose demonstration is a nice little show of basic physics that most people just don't get at all. Wave radios are nice little bits of kit considering how tiny they are. Don Dongington posted:There's a YouTube video out there of a guy in which he builds a transmission line box around an 8" Cadence subwoofer and sticks it in his car. The resulting window flex is getting on for dual Type R 12s and a ported box territory. I've always wanted to buy a lovely van and throw in one of Bill's home theatre designs, 2 of them will do this to a house: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZglcBoKBuaY I think they guy has those loaded with 2 Lab 15 drivers and in rooms they'll go down to 16hz flat with little trouble. 
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Aug 30, 2017 09:36
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Don't fuse the negative. You never want to fuse a negative, neutral, ground, etc in a car or in residential wiring. Only the hot/positive. Oopsies I read the amp chart wrong. 2x 10ga to 1x 8ga. I can just bypass the fuse block as the 4ga transmission line is fused itself. The grounds were never going to be fused. hosed up the syntax there.
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Aug 30, 2017 19:09
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Just going to recommend no one buy any CT Sounds products. Nothing to do with the products themselves, which seem good. The owner is apparently a grade A rear end in a top hat. He apparently had worked out a deal with caraudiofabrication.com where he would buy some professional videos on enclosure making and then offer the designs/videos to CT Sounds customers on the CT Sounds support site for free. Once he got the enclosure design blueprints, he turned around and started a new website where he sells the blueprints outside of anything related to CT Sounds. Not to mention, he left Car Audio Fabrications logo on a bunch of the designs so people were confused and thought they were buying from Car Audio Fabrications. He's had been other shady issues in the past from what I've read. I'm not going to support an asshat like that so I'll never buy anything CT Sounds. Just a heads up.
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Aug 30, 2017 22:01
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I recently bought a 2002 Mazda MX-5 that came with a 2-DIN "big lcd screen" stereo. Apparently some kind of factory/dealer option as it came with a Mazda-branded manual. However, it's old and outdated, the CD is broken and won't read anything, and the aux input is hidden somewhere on the back (haven't fished it out), so all it is is an awfully big radio with a user interface that looks like a web page from the turn of the century. Even if the CD worked, it only has maps for a different country from 15 years ago. So, an upgrade is due. I've been looking around at Android-powered 2-DIN touchscreen stereo things (basically tablets with an audio amplifier in a car-stereo form factor) since that idea appeals to me, but boy are there many a dubious brand to choose from. Eonon, Pumpkin, Panlelo, Joying, Atoto.... Given the general quality of chinese electronic brands, I expect some of them to be crap and a few to be pretty good. However, I have zero clues as to which are which, and youtube reviews are inconclusive. Does anyone here have any experience with these and can offer some advice on what to get or what to avoid? I want something that can download and run any app from both Play store and "custom" APK's, and be able to run plain standard Google Maps, but that seems to be the general case. Other than that, something that boots as quickly as possible (I know I'll have to learn to wait for it, but the less the better) and doesn't crash or generally misbehave too often. A reasonably modern Android version is nice too. I do not need a CD/DVD player (would prefer one without with less depth for easier cabling), the biggest possible touch screen or audiophile-grade sound quality.
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Sep 2, 2017 20:10
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If you're interested in Android Auto I'm really happy with the Sony XAV AX100. I can't give you any input on the Chinese Android tablet in a head unit options, although my research into the topic seems to indicate the sound quality on a lot of them suck, and many have a constant hiss. The XAV comes with the ability to read flash drives over USB and plays video files too.
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Sep 2, 2017 21:14
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Cross post from the "what did you do today" thread. Installed a sub and amp in the evo. Well, a compact Sub/amp combo. There isn't much space in the boot, thanks to the washer fluid reservoir, bracing and battery. Also means you can't fold the seats down. Didn't want to sacrifice the space so I bought this. It seemed well regarded on amazon and the price was right.  Battery is in the rear, so was easy to run power wire under the rear seat to beneath the drivers seat  Dash disassembled to install RCA and remote wires.  Seat out, sub and wiring in.  All back together, can barely tell it's there!  Fitment isn't bad though there is a metal bracket that holds the airbag and seatbelt harness which is preventing me moving the box forward another 1-2 inches, which would have it sitting between the ribs of the floor pan and totally out of sight. Going to revisit and see if I can remove the bracket and tuck the wires elsewhere. Sound wise it's decent. Its not as noticeable from the passenger seat but the driver seat gets a good thump with electronic tunes. It isn't as Omni directional as a full sized sub (you can hear it more on the right side of the seat than the left) but it sounds better than it has any right to for a sub of its size. It's not shaking the windows but it makes my preferred music (stoner/doom metal and electronic) sound much better. Just need to get rid of the retarded blue LED off the bass control knob remote. Why is that still a thing?
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Sep 10, 2017 13:37
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So I have a 2003 F150 with a stock radio and speakers that sound like garbo. I've never done a car stereo before but I want a double din head unit and its a single din in that vehicle. I don't have the tools necessary to do the work and frankly I also lack the interest in doing it myself. I live in one of the highest cost of living areas in USA and was quoted ~$800 for 4x new speakers and a new head unit (all pioneer) installed I guess I need to ask myself how much I care about having a double din since I feel like thats the biggest thing holding me back from just doing it all myself? Going by memory about $200-250 of the cost was labor. I haven't gone out and gotten a second quote yet just for comparison sake but I do like that this shop has been around for 30 years and is locally owned and operated! Anyway, does that sound like an alright quote for pioneer shiz?
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Sep 12, 2017 23:05
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Statutory Ape posted:So I have a 2003 F150 with a stock radio and speakers that sound like garbo. I've never done a car stereo before but I want a double din head unit and its a single din in that vehicle. I don't have the tools necessary to do the work and frankly I also lack the interest in doing it myself. I live in one of the highest cost of living areas in USA and was quoted ~$800 for 4x new speakers and a new head unit (all pioneer) installed If your dash doesn't have a 2-DIN slot in the dash, you're not getting a 2-DIN in there without some SERIOUS fabrication. Looking at a picture of the dash though, it looks like 2-DIN is at least a possibility, so depending on how your dash is designed you may need a new trim piece to give a 2-DIN opening or not. Post a picture of your dash so we know what we're working with. At a minimum to replace your in-dash you'll need a new dash unit and an adapter harness. You'll splice the adapter harness to the harness for the new radio, then plug the car harness in to the adapter. If you have steering wheel controls you'll probably need an adapter if you want them to work with the new radio. If you want to replace the speakers, the easiest thing to do is buy better quality speakers that fit the existing holes, then just change them out (you may need adapters to connect aftermarket speakers to the existing wiring). If you use the harness above it should also connect your speaker wiring to the radio so you shouldn't have to do any further splicing. If you want more power, you'll need to wire an amp, which adds another layer of difficulty but shouldn't be TOO bad when dealing with a truck cabin. Same if you want to add a subwoofer for better low-end.
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Sep 13, 2017 07:57
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What headunits are good price:performance? I dont mind if its double or single din, car has no external controls to worry about either. No sub now but Id like one in future. I want it to sound good and I want aux input, thats about it.
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Sep 15, 2017 02:57
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I really like the Sony MEX-M100BT if you aren't going to be using external amps. It has a built in class D amp that puts out very good power.
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Sep 15, 2017 04:24
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ionn posted:I recently bought a 2002 Mazda MX-5 that came with a 2-DIN "big lcd screen" stereo. Apparently some kind of factory/dealer option as it came with a Mazda-branded manual. However, it's old and outdated, the CD is broken and won't read anything, and the aux input is hidden somewhere on the back (haven't fished it out), so all it is is an awfully big radio with a user interface that looks like a web page from the turn of the century. Even if the CD worked, it only has maps for a different country from 15 years ago. So, an upgrade is due. You could check out the Mazda 3 forums for more information on Eonon. They make headunits that are designed specifically for the Mazda 3 / Mazda 6s dash, etc.
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Sep 15, 2017 06:31
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Ohrmazd posted:You could check out the Mazda 3 forums for more information on Eonon. They make headunits that are designed specifically for the Mazda 3 / Mazda 6s dash, etc. I've looked a bit at the various brand-specific Eonon models as there seem to be just more reviews of those, and while I can't use any of them (I have a regular 2DIN-sized hole) they seem to be essentially the same thing but with different front bezels and more hardbuttons/knobs. Prime candidates for me would be the Eonon GA2164 or a Pumpkin. The former seems to be more common (based on the amount of Youtube videos on it) and slightly cheaper, the latter has Android 7.1. Wasabi the J posted:If you're interested in Android Auto I'm really happy with the Sony XAV AX100. I can't give you any input on the Chinese Android tablet in a head unit options, although my research into the topic seems to indicate the sound quality on a lot of them suck, and many have a constant hiss. Not really what I'm looking for. While it probably runs Android behind the curtains, it's not an "open android" I can do custom poo poo with, but rather just does the Android Auto / Apple Carplay "big screen UI" thing with my phone. Unless I totally misread what is written and said about it. As for sound quality, every time I've had problem with hissing/whining noise in a car it's been due to lovely cabling (power feed, aux/line signal, or noisy ignition leads) or bad ground somewhere. I don't think I have seen too many complaints about that for the Chinese Android head units though.
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Sep 17, 2017 02:00
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This is a pretty simple question, but the videos I've watched don't really answer it. I'm installing an Alpine CDE-W235BT headunit and I'm wiring it up to the metra harness. The only thing is the black ground wire has a crimped loop to ground with a bolt, but the metra harness has a black wire coming off it. As well, the illumination and antenna wires off the new HU have crimps on them like they are to be plugged in to something, the harness has orange/blue wires for those. Do I just cut off the crimps and the metal piece on the ground and join the wires to the metra harness?
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Sep 18, 2017 02:56
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dahkren posted:This is a pretty simple question, but the videos I've watched don't really answer it. I'm installing an Alpine CDE-W235BT headunit and I'm wiring it up to the metra harness. The only thing is the black ground wire has a crimped loop to ground with a bolt, but the metra harness has a black wire coming off it. As well, the illumination and antenna wires off the new HU have crimps on them like they are to be plugged in to something, the harness has orange/blue wires for those. As a rule of thumb, don't ground an aftermarket head unit to the harness ground - they're often lovely and you'll end up with EM noise half the time. Just bolt the Alpine's ground wire to anything that's physically connected to the crash bar (usually the DIN support brackets are fine for this) and you'll get a perfectly good ground that way. Leave the metra ground tied back out of the way. For illumination and ant, you could either get matching crimp connectors for the metra harness, or just as you say, cut those crimps off and solder/use your own crimps/etc. Crimps are fine by the way - most of the high end tuner guys these days swear by crimp connectors v. solder, as the lead free solder we use these days tends to melt when used in warmer environments such as engine bays/behind the dash, and if it's good enough for ECU wiring and sensors, then it should be more than good enough for speaker wires and power.
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Sep 18, 2017 03:09
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Don Dongington posted:As a rule of thumb, don't ground an aftermarket head unit to the harness ground - they're often lovely and you'll end up with EM noise half the time. Just bolt the Alpine's ground wire to anything that's physically connected to the crash bar (usually the DIN support brackets are fine for this) and you'll get a perfectly good ground that way. Leave the metra ground tied back out of the way. Alright thanks, I'll find a spot to screw down the spade connector. Got everything else attached, my mounting kit should come today so we'll see if it works later! Rest of my day is going to be spent drilling new holes for my new speakers in the rear deck, the new speakers screws are like an inch away from where the factory holes are.
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Sep 18, 2017 13:53
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