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Well with that much co2 production, it's actively pushing everything away from your beer, so you're good. I haven't heard a boom before, usually it turns the airlock into a spray nozzle.
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Sep 25, 2017 14:41
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The worst thing about brewing in fall is having poo poo fall into the kettle while you're chilling. What the gently caress, trees?
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Sep 25, 2017 15:26
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rockcity posted:Did a New England Pale Ale yesterday and ran a learn to brew sort of event at my house along with it for my college alumni club. Went pretty smoothly and fermentation took off like a rocket. Hops were mostly picked to clear out most of what was left in my freezer. Gonna have to re-stock when places start selling their 2017 crop. This beer is going to get served at a big event at the football stadium here in Orlando in three weeks. Yakima valley hops has started selling the 2017 crops for a few varieties already. Should be coming in fairly regularly now.
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Sep 25, 2017 15:30
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robotsinmyhead posted:The worst thing about brewing in fall is having poo poo fall into the kettle while you're chilling. What the gently caress, trees? I actually just went to the fabric store the other day to get some nylon mesh to prevent just that issue. I figure I will use some binder clips or something to secure it to the rim of the pot.
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Sep 25, 2017 15:30
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Jo3sh posted:I actually just went to the fabric store the other day to get some nylon mesh to prevent just that issue. I figure I will use some binder clips or something to secure it to the rim of the pot. True. I was doing a whirlpool though.
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Sep 25, 2017 15:49
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Jo3sh posted:I actually just went to the fabric store the other day to get some nylon mesh to prevent just that issue. I figure I will use some binder clips or something to secure it to the rim of the pot. Yeah, I thought about doing that as well. I had a fly around my kettle yesterday that I had to keep a close eye on. Jhet posted:Yakima valley hops has started selling the 2017 crops for a few varieties already. Should be coming in fairly regularly now. I was on their site yesterday and I think I only saw leaf hops from 2017. I didn't think they were selling pellets yet, which I'd much prefer for space reasons.
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Sep 25, 2017 15:51
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robotsinmyhead posted:The worst thing about brewing in fall is having poo poo fall into the kettle while you're chilling. What the gently caress, trees? If you're in New England you make an authentic New England Ale. Made with real-Tree(TM) Extract.
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Sep 25, 2017 16:01
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Maple beers are totally a thing, right?
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Sep 25, 2017 16:04
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rockcity posted:Yeah, I thought about doing that as well. I had a fly around my kettle yesterday that I had to keep a close eye on. Could be. I only glanced at the email. Pellets are usually a month later. Jo3sh posted:Maple beers are totally a thing, right? Definitely. Not usually leaves, but I really want to make a maple beer. My dad harvests maple sap, but not quite enough for me to be able to put the syrup into beer yet. If you can harvest the sap (taps, bags, and buckets aren't terribly expensive), you already probably have the stuff you need to reduce a large quantity into syrup. Bonus is it really is pretty tasty. I'm pretty sure it's February/March too, so plenty of time to plan ahead for it. Unless you live where it doesn't get cold and then you're pretty much SOL I think.
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Sep 25, 2017 18:26
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I wonder if you use maple sap as your mash water. It's already practically water right?
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Sep 25, 2017 18:33
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Marshmallow Blue posted:I wonder if you use maple sap as your mash water. It's already practically water right? It's very watery, but I wouldn't want to add the extra sugars, and you actually get a bit of caramelization of the sap when reducing for syrup. They taste quite a bit different. I don't remember all the details, but I remember there being other reasons beside just reduction of water to the process. I just don't remember what they are, so I could be mixing it up with something else.
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Sep 25, 2017 18:36
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Marshmallow Blue posted:I wonder if you use maple sap as your mash water. It's already practically water right? It's been done before. I looked into it but gave up after reading that the flavor hardly carries through. Lawson's in Vermont does a beer with it, Sap.
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Sep 25, 2017 23:04
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Der Penguingott posted:It's been done before. I looked into it but gave up after reading that the flavor hardly carries through. Fiddlehead brewing in Shelburne VT does it too, or try used to at least.
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Sep 25, 2017 23:07
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Der Penguingott posted:It's been done before. I looked into it but gave up after reading that the flavor hardly carries through. Doesn't surprise me at all. It's about 40:1::sap:syrup.
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Sep 25, 2017 23:23
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I used a quart of Grade B syrup in a beer once in secondary and I could barely taste it.
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Sep 25, 2017 23:50
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I'm doing an Imperial Red right now and my recipe calls for 6 lbs of Golden Malt Extract, 6 lbs of Munich extract, about 1.5 lbs of grain and 1.5 lbs of corn sugar. The only problem is that my store only sells extract in 3.3 lb jars; so instead of using 12 lbs of extract, I'm at 13.2 lbs. Should I still go with the full 1.5 lbs of corn sugar? My pitch is going to be two packets of Safale US-05, if that matters.
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Sep 26, 2017 00:01
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Slightly Lions posted:I'm doing an Imperial Red right now and my recipe calls for 6 lbs of Golden Malt Extract, 6 lbs of Munich extract, about 1.5 lbs of grain and 1.5 lbs of corn sugar. The only problem is that my store only sells extract in 3.3 lb jars; so instead of using 12 lbs of extract, I'm at 13.2 lbs. Should I still go with the full 1.5 lbs of corn sugar? My pitch is going to be two packets of Safale US-05, if that matters.
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Sep 26, 2017 00:19
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triple clutcher posted:From the sound of it, you'll want the sugar to dry out the beer a bit since it's probably already going to be pretty high in alcohol, but I'd use Beersmith / Brewer's Friend / etc. to figure out the possible ABV / OG / FG and estimate from there. Mostly what I'm worried about is the beer having too much sugar for the yeast to attenuate, but if ya'll don't think that's an issue I'll just follow the recipe and have a real humdinger of a beer at the end.
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Sep 26, 2017 00:31
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What is your estimated OG and FG? ABV?
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Sep 26, 2017 02:14
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rockcity posted:I used a quart of Grade B syrup in a beer once in secondary and I could barely taste it. poo poo! I would be IHopping mad
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Sep 26, 2017 12:33
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GigaPeon posted:Brewed yesterday. Had my first lid fly off this morning. Luckily I heard the boom and was able to get the lid resanitized and back on fairly quickly, but it took me some time to find some tubing to fit on the airlock for the blow off. Yeah it'll be fine. I went through a spate of trappist brews this spring/summer, and out of 7 batches, 4 of them blew their top. All but one had a defoamer added to them too haha. Only one blew the lid clean off but it sat for maybe 3 days before I realized it and that one actually turned out to be the best dubbel I've ever made. I actually began to view a blown lid as a good luck charm haha Doesn't make the mess any better to clean up tho
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Sep 26, 2017 14:38
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Marshmallow Blue posted:poo poo! I would be IHopping mad Yeah, it's just not a flavor that seems to carry-over well. I've heard of people using even more than a quart. Supposedly the best way to get a maple flavor into the beer is to use fenugreek which is what gets used in maple flavored extracts. I've never used it before but I almost bought some at my spice shop to gently caress around with in some things to see how the flavor comes across. Edit: Gonna pick up ingredients today to brew a Dunkel in a couple weeks. Man I'm excited to brew with The Yeast Bay's Franconian Dark Lager again. That poo poo is goooooood. Double Edit: Goddammit, the only homebrew shop in all of FL to sell Yeast Bay stopped carrying it because practically no one except the employees there was buying it. I'll either need to try another yeast or order it online. rockcity fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Sep 26, 2017 |
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Sep 26, 2017 15:47
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Hey everybody! I've got a recipe and a question. First up, here's the Belgian Pale Ale I made this summer. I made it during a heat wave with Belgian abbey yeast which gave it a lot of fun flavors, it went really well with the dry-hops. It was my first beer that was gone faster than it took to make. Style: Extract/steep two stage ale 7lbs Ultralight Malt Extract 8 oz Cara-Pils 4 oz Caramunich Malt 4 oz Special B Malt 4 oz corn sugar/candi syrup 60 min: 1 oz Perle 1 min: 1 oz Mt. Hood Dry-hop for 7 days: 2 oz whole Citra hops 1 package Abbey Ale yeast (White Labs) 1 Whirfloc tablet (15 minutes at boil) OG: 1.045 FG: ~1.005 Now I'm working on a Perry, which I've never done before. I've got 20 lbs of Bartlets ripening in my garage, and a liter of test juice measured up to about an OG of 1.059. In a truly serendipitous moment, I also have some grapes lying on my counter with a particular white fuzz growing on the skin. I've wanted to do a wild yeast forever, but I have no idea what to expect. Is there a treatment this yeast goes through to ensure it works, like going out of my way to create a starter? Can I just start throwing mushy grapes into the bottle and see what happens? I've also heard these yeasts vary considerably and can create cider that isn't worth drinking or will barely ferment before giving up. What of these things should I concern myself with? Can anybody who's done this before give me a rundown on their techniques for using wild yeast? EDIT: These are farmer's market grapes, and they came with a thin white layer on them from the bin. Double edit: Great, I guess I've got to buy beakers and petri dishes now. At least my meth lab is one step closer to completion, too. DISCO KING fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Sep 26, 2017 |
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Sep 26, 2017 18:31
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Napoleon Bonaparty posted:Now I'm working on a Perry, which I've never done before. I've got 20 lbs of Bartlets ripening in my garage, and a liter of test juice measured up to about an OG of 1.059. In a truly serendipitous moment, I also have some grapes lying on my counter with a particular white fuzz growing on the skin. I've wanted to do a wild yeast forever, but I have no idea what to expect. Is there a treatment this yeast goes through to ensure it works, like going out of my way to create a starter? Can I just start throwing mushy grapes into the bottle and see what happens? I've also heard these yeasts vary considerably and can create cider that isn't worth drinking or will barely ferment before giving up. What of these things should I concern myself with? Can anybody who's done this before give me a rundown on their techniques for using wild yeast? That recipe looks like it should taste good. Belgian yeasts are wonderfully expressive under the right circumstances. As for wild yeasts, it's typically a good idea to give them a test run before you toss it into a large batch. You may have a decent yeast, or you may just have mold. Do a small batch and give it some time. You're correct in what you've heard, which is why a lot of people start with small trials first. Definitely run off a pint or so of the pear juice and give it a go. Wild yeasts tend to not grow fuzzy on fruit, so that really probably is just mold. It's almost certainly just mold if you bought them from the store. I use small 10 mL centrifuge tubes when I'm collecting with 1.020 wort, then I streak them onto plates and try to isolate before starting back at 10mL with 1.020 wort. If I like it still I step up to the 100mL graduated cylinders. I've not gotten past that point yet due to it either not smelling good (yet!) or it smelling putrid and ending up molding over anyway (not a pellicle, mold). But after the 100mL step I'd just go into larger quantities to create a starter to use. This is just one way to do it. There are many others. Check out: milkthefunk - wiki bootleg biology - website suigeneris - blog mad fermentationist - blog, does sour brewing, but I don't know if they've done captures Edit: You could also just not pasteurize your pear juice and see what it does. I would either artificially drop the pH with lactic acid 88% or even just leave it under a blanket of CO2. I also did a batch of apple cider last year that I skipped adding K-meta and just pitched yeast and left it for a year. I have no idea what's in it, but it formed a pellicle and is tasting just wonderful. It was kegged last week and is the most complex cider I've made to date. Jhet fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Sep 26, 2017 |
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Sep 26, 2017 18:48
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If you are making Perry from pears you picked and know are untreated, just juice them and let the wild yeast have at it. Same works for apples and will end up drinkable usually, and frequently is very good. If it doesn't ferment after 14 days, smells terrible or grows fuzzy mold - dump it. Same rule applies for any spontaneous beer. Commerical fruit has fungicides and things which will make it unlikely to ferment properly. Please read up before you try wild yeast captures as you really can get sick from certain molds and bacteria. Yeast capturing is a bit different than spontaneous fermentation. A lot of people will plate the capture, and then just propagate single cultures to see what's good and what's bad.
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Sep 26, 2017 23:14
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I'm brainstorming a "Cereal Milk IPA" loosely inspired by the smoothie/milk shake beers (using lactose, vanilla and oats) but want to nail down the grain bill before diving into what hops to use. Below is what I've thrown together and would love feedback in trying to get that "breakfast cereal" taste, leaving most of the sweetness to the adjuncts.
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Sep 27, 2017 00:50
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rockcity posted:Supposedly the best way to get a maple flavor into the beer is to use fenugreek which is what gets used in maple flavored extracts. I've never used it before but I almost bought some at my spice shop to gently caress around with in some things to see how the flavor comes across. I tried using fenugreek to make a maple beer once and it came out tasting kind of like curry. Maple is one of the flavors that I'd recommend just using a high quality extract for.
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Sep 27, 2017 14:15
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No way this works. Right? http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2017/09/reader-tip-stainless-steel-beer-gun-bottle-filler-31-82-free-shipping.html
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Sep 28, 2017 21:05
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LaserWash posted:No way this works. Right? Why wouldn't it? Everything Blichman is grossly overpriced crap you could buy for 1/3 the cost from anyone else.
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Sep 28, 2017 21:08
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Ghostnuke posted:Why wouldn't it? Everything Blichman is grossly overpriced crap you could buy for 1/3 the cost from anyone else. True with any homebrew specific brand really
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Sep 28, 2017 21:18
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What the hell. I'll take one for the team and try it. I've got an English barleywine aging in a keg with Hungarian oak that was doused in some Maker's Mark Bourbon. This will motivate me to bottle it. The sample pre-oak/bourbon was the loving bomb. LaserWash fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Sep 28, 2017 |
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Sep 28, 2017 21:29
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LaserWash posted:What the hell. I'll take one for the team and try it. I've got an English barleywine aging in a keg with Hungarian oak that was doused in some Maker's Mark Bourbon. I'm sure it will work. It looks exactly the same as my old beer gun which is great. AliExpress has been selling them for a long time.
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Sep 29, 2017 00:06
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I just bought a Blichman Beergun V1 and now I'm mad. There's nothing, at least from casual observation, that is mindblowing about the beergun. It's a pretty simple principle.
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Sep 29, 2017 11:37
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Well nothing is simpler than just putting a tube on your faucet and just dropping it in the bottle.
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Sep 29, 2017 15:16
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LaserWash posted:What the hell. I'll take one for the team and try it. I've got an English barleywine aging in a keg with Hungarian oak that was doused in some Maker's Mark Bourbon. Let me know, I need a beer gun style thing.
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Sep 30, 2017 07:58
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I have been busy of late so just caught up on the 200+ posts  I managed to finally do my first pressure fermentation in the fermentasaurus just recently, and I am 100% sold on pressure fermenting. I managed to churn out a German lager in a touch over 3 weeks, pitch to package. I used the Yeast Bay Hessian Pils, pitched at 12C. Let it build pressure to 15psi, set the pressure relief valve and let it go for a week, ramped to 18C, let that go for a week and then tested, it was done so then cold crashed at 1C for a week. The pressure fermenting lid comes with a stainless float for the flexible dip tube and a gas in line, so kegging was a matter of watching the level, and connecting a beer to beer line from the outlet of the fermentasaurus to the inlet of the purged sanitised keg. Transfer took about 3-4 minutes, with 5psi into the fermentasaurus to keep it moving. The recipe was pretty basic, 100% gladfields American ale malt, 30ibu of Hallertau. Water was an RO base, with salts added to match an appropriate Pilsner level. It needs a touch extra carbonation but overall the base recipe is super clean, no off flavours, no funny smells normally associated with lager fermentation ie sulfuric or eggy. Just a good, clean lager. This has me convinced, I've decided to swap the other working fridge/freezer I have for a single upright fridge to fit another fermentasaurus. I like the idea of a kegmenter but there's no way to know how full the keg you're transferring to is post ferment.
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Oct 1, 2017 01:32
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So I brewed the Christmas Imperial Rye Biere de Garde yesterday. It was a disaster of a brew day. We decided to combine the brew day with brunch for a bunch of friends, which kept me thoroughly distracted all day and resulted in:
It's going strong at the moment. I decided to just say gently caress it at this point and went for open-fermenting it which is not something I've done before (no airlock, just foil). Basically I'm just going to hope that the long aging period and shitloads of yeast I pitched (including brett) will cover up my mistakes, but I'd not be surprised if this got infected honestly. Lessons learnt (hopefully). thotsky fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Oct 1, 2017 |
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Oct 1, 2017 22:03
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I'm a big proponent of that Fermax yeast nutrient. I put it in all my batches, even when my cell counts are way above board. The last time I brewed, my friend gave me a starter he was making up for another beer, but fell thru on his brew day, so I used it. After fermentation was done, I poured off the trub into 2 jars and gave it back to him and he was astonished how much there was. He said his trub is usually ~1in thick on the bottom of the fermenter, and mine is easily 3x that high. I dunno if that really means anything, but he made 2 beers off the yeast I gave him.
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Oct 2, 2017 00:03
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Any point in adding it 30 hours after pitching yeast? Anything else I can do to help my chances?
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Oct 2, 2017 00:40
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Well, I've been wanting up sharpen my IPA game, so I ordered a shitload of hops. I'm using as a template a clone recipe for Golden Road's Wolf Among Weeds IPA. It calls for two rounds of dry hops. The first round gets added for three days, then the beer is racked to secondary, and the second round of dry hops are added. I was considering just using fine-mesh nylon bags for both rounds, so I can pull one and add the other, while avoiding the transfer and the hop goop. I'm going to brew this beer a few times in 2018, so I can try it both ways, I guess, but I'm curious what you guys think about the no-transfer idea.
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Oct 2, 2017 01:21
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