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Scarecow posted:Ok well lets hope the ml120 ml140s with out the rubber mounts are ok They are fine, they are very well balanced and part of the maglev bearing setup means they shouldn't be transferring very much energy to the fan mount anyways.
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Oct 2, 2017 08:50
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Keep in mind you have to run them as pwm.
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Oct 2, 2017 13:00
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Don Lapre posted:Keep in mind you have to run them as pwm. Yeah did read the review on them and so far really impressed with how quite they are, they do get loud at max rpm but thats almost purly the metric gently caress ton of air they push Gonna be nice being able to control them with my aquaero too Finally worked out how to make custom fan profiles in that software
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Oct 2, 2017 21:23
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Just finished leak testing this: 280+120 in a Phanteks P400s. It's about as full as the case can possibly be but I am happy with the results. Next project is to delid the 3570K, it still gets pretty toasty under overclocked load. The only product that I am disappointed in is the DDC pump, it's a whiny motherfucker. When I get some more money I am going to swap it for a D5.
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Oct 4, 2017 04:51
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Is there no SLI bridge?
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Oct 4, 2017 06:25
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Scholtz posted:Is there no SLI bridge? he has a sli ribbon
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Oct 4, 2017 06:32
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They're 980's. I got the blocks and the interconnect for $25 total so it wasn't much of a sunk cost to use my old cards. They might be replaced by Volta but, to be honest, they're more than enough for anything i do on my computer. I might get a HB SLI bridge so I can masquerade them as 1080tis 🤔
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Oct 4, 2017 08:06
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Oh, whoops. I forgot that quad-sli is a thing and thus cards having two sli connections is a thing.
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Oct 4, 2017 08:49
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I have a watercooled server rack computer inside of a istarusa d-400 case. Innards: CPU: i7 6700k w/ek block GPU: 1080ti w/swiftech block MBO: Hero Alpha VIII Pump: D5 pump MCP655 or whatever it's called. The go to swiftech pump. Radiator: 3fan "monsta" radiator. I think alphacool? Res: Some random small one bought on amazon, has silver insert. my only concern is the lead I have running from the pump to the cpu. You can see it in the picture, it's fairly long. Is there a worry with that? My only thought is that with the relatively high headpressure of the pump it shouldn't be an issue at all, but let me know what you guys think.
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Oct 5, 2017 19:54
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there shouldn't be any issues with long runs.
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Oct 5, 2017 20:16
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I decided my 7700k was running too hot for all the money I spent on this 420mm custom loop cooler, so I grabbed some thermal grizzly conductonaut and a rockit 88 delid tool. Yielded exactly 20C reduction in load temperatures under the same conditions. The factory thermal compound Intel uses really is complete garbage.
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Oct 15, 2017 01:37
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Indiana_Krom posted:I decided my 7700k was running too hot for all the money I spent on this 420mm custom loop cooler, so I grabbed some thermal grizzly conductonaut and a rockit 88 delid tool. Yielded exactly 20C reduction in load temperatures under the same conditions. The factory thermal compound Intel uses really is complete garbage. There really is zero defence for using tim besides saving a few bucks and possible lost dies from the process, i just hope and continues to put presure on intel forcing them back to soldiering
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Oct 15, 2017 03:19
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Jeez thats a lot of work for a lowly 7700k. What kind of overclock did it give you?
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Oct 15, 2017 16:22
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It was hitting 88C in barely above stock configuration, only running all core turbo of 4.5 GHz with a heavy AVX workload (prime95 v2.85), the power draw was about 120w at stock voltage. Mainly what I did it for wasn't overclocking but for silencing the fans which start ramping up as the CPU approaches 70C, now under more typical workloads in the 50w range it rarely rises much past 50C and so the fans never have to ramp up. Amusingly enough the same prime95 test now tops off at about 115w/68C, so lowering the temperature by 20C cut 5w worth of leakage. Although as a result of this change the GPU runs slightly warmer because the fans aren't spinning up as aggressively which allows the coolant temps to rise a little more than before.
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Oct 19, 2017 17:05
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Bah just had the pump poo poo itself on my Kraken X62, that's unfortunate. I've switched over to an H212 but had to greatly reduce overclocking on my 7700k (it was at 5.2 and now it's back to stock). As effective as the cooler was goddamn NZXT makes some terrible hardware and software. Good thing their cases are amazing!
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Oct 23, 2017 01:55
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Nzxt doesn't make it. It's made by asetek. Also rma it.
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Oct 23, 2017 01:58
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Don Lapre posted:Nzxt doesn't make it. It's made by asetek. Also rma it.
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Oct 23, 2017 02:11
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You can though I never had an issue with Cam before I went custom. Just fyi any aio that has the circular block is made by asetek. The manufacturer can do custom electronics though.
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Oct 23, 2017 02:20
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Making slow progress on my Nano S rig. Ran into a small snag when mounting the M2 drive. The M2 slot on the Gigabyte GA-H270-WIFI motherboard is on the back and the cutout in the motherboard mount isn't quite big enough. It fits, but can't be installed or removed with motherboard in the case. Fingers crossed it doesn't break.  Test fitting the rad and a fan to measure the maximum DIMM height. Corsair LPX modules are 33.5mm tall, so they should just about fit with a few mm to spare, though I'll probably need to remove the fan to install them.  Test fitting the CPU block.  Next up, buy and install graphics card, gpu block, tubing, reservoir and pump, then test the loop. Then I'm ready to dismantle my current PC and move the PSU and storage hard drive over.
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Oct 30, 2017 23:26
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I've got my first water cooling system sitting on a counter leak testing (i.e. it's not in the case). It's EKs P360 kit. Any tips? After it had run for a few hours I noticed I was able to tighten the connections down a bit more, presumably due to the tubing becoming more pliant due to having some heat in them generated by the pump. I think I may do a few heat cycles to see if that makes a difference in anything so I've currently got it turned off letting it come back to ambient. Is there any point in putting a fan on it so it doesn't get too hot? Or should I let it get as hot as possible since it doesn't currently have a CPU adding heat to it?
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Nov 4, 2017 19:44
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My system's been running fine, and all I did was assemble it in case, tighten, and leak test without touching for a night. Used the L360 R2. Fans were spinning, but I don't think that matters.
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Nov 4, 2017 19:53
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I leak test without fans running so any drips that might exist don’t evaporate. Other than that, leak test after assembly.
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Nov 4, 2017 20:45
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10-4, thanks, assembling now.
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Nov 4, 2017 20:51
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I'm looking for 2 200mm (20cm) fans, I like the noctua ones, I was just wondering if anyone had any preferred ones that were maybe a bit cheaper?
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Nov 4, 2017 21:16
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Any advice on pump % settings? Seems like it's common to set it at a straight percentage/RPM rather than allow it to dynamically adjust all the time, which makes sense to me. Seems like some people use 60%. I've currently got it set to 60% unless temps go above 70C in which case it ramps up to 100% between 70 and 90. 60% on the pump results in a reported ~3500 RPM but I'm not sure if that's accurate or not. I know that on first boot it was also controlled by the same type of fan profile as the regular CPU fan and it resulted in ~900 RPM reported at idle. And IIRC cranking it to 100% resulted in around 4300 RPM. Radiator fans I'm using what the default was which is starting to ramp up pretty straight line at 40C, hitting 100% at 85C. I only have one 120mm case fan (it's a very open air case) and currently have it set to 50%. Currently idling at about 26C.
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Nov 7, 2017 06:41
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Run the pump at whatever rpm sounds best in your chassis.
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Nov 7, 2017 07:05
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I run mine at the lowest setting because it's silent at that. Unless I have my gpu overclocked to all the way to gently caress and back so elite runs smoothly in VR, but I can't hear it over that game's awesome sound either so it's fine 
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Nov 10, 2017 08:55
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JayzTwoCent just did a video on Primochill's Vue liquid, after a couple months of use he saw no gunk up of the blocks and says it even cleaned the blocks. https://youtu.be/fMV6XsUsZb8 
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Nov 19, 2017 00:46
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SlayVus posted:JayzTwoCent just did a video on Primochill's Vue liquid, after a couple months of use he saw no gunk up of the blocks and says it even cleaned the blocks. wouldnt be surprised if the particals in the Vue fluid are having a abrasive effect on the gunk, would love to see how it fairs after 6+ months of use tho (maybe I'll stick it in a system I have at home and see how it goes)
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Nov 19, 2017 03:38
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Closed-loop cooling question: I bought a Corsair H60 closed-loop cooler and installed it on my new Intel i5 8600k (Coffee Lake). I have done some preliminary testing in Ubuntu and my temperatures are maxing out at around 54°C with all cores at 100%, and 28°C-ish idle. The motherboard appears to boost fan speed at high temperatures. I don’t have specific settings to say “this is a pump”. One thing is that the intake and outtake pipes are oriented at “top”. So hot coolant comes into the cooler, moves down, then moves back up and to the cold plate. Corsair says in their manual that the opposite orientation - having the intake and outtake pipe at the bottom, is the recommended orientation. 1. Despite this being flip-flopped it definitely looks like the cooler is working. Can I leave the setup as-is or is this going to cause non-insignificant problems in the future? 2. Is it OK if the motherboard regulates/changes the speed of the coolant pump, or can this cause damage to the pump? (I am only used to design/control of motors and pumps that are MUCH larger than this, thousands of horsepower.) Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 14:54 on Nov 21, 2017 |
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Nov 21, 2017 14:52
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It will work fine that way. Biggest problem is if there is any air you want it to collect in the radiator, not the pump. Having tubes at the top allows air to make its way into the pump which is bad for it.
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Nov 21, 2017 15:43
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So apparently EKWB lists the heigh of their res/pump combo without including the height of the rubber feet, meaning the pump combo I bought won't fit standing up in my Nano S. Would it be fine to mount it like this, or will it cause issues with flow and/or vibration? 
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Nov 22, 2017 20:04
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Don Lapre posted:It will work fine that way. Biggest problem is if there is any air you want it to collect in the radiator, not the pump. Having tubes at the top allows air to make its way into the pump which is bad for it. The high point in the system is still above the pump on the cold plate.
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Nov 22, 2017 22:10
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It's done!  Fractal Design Nano S case. Entire loop is EKWB parts. Corsair ML fans, 140mm in the front and 120mm on the rad. The loose SATA connector on the bottom is for a media drive I'll install later. I really like the pump. It's so quiet even at full speed that while I was bleeding it I thought it had stopped working. I thought I was going to have to PWM the pump and had issues figuring out how to hook four fans and a pump up to two fan headers, but I think I'll just let the pump run unregulated off one of the SATA connectors. e: I'm thinking I should cover up the bottom and rear intakes to force most of the air to exit through the radiator and make sure I have positive pressure inside the case... Good idea or bad idea? Collateral Damage fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Nov 27, 2017 |
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Nov 26, 2017 23:56
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Collateral Damage posted:It's done! Bad idea.
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Nov 27, 2017 18:56
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Collateral Damage posted:It's done! buy more fans instead
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Nov 28, 2017 14:46
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Watercooler noob checking in. If you had a case with space in the front for a 360mm rad, how feasible is it too cool both the CPU and GPU with that? It's a 1080 and 6600k at the mo. GRINDCORE MEGGIDO fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Dec 3, 2017 |
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Dec 3, 2017 16:56
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I'm cooling a 7600k and a 1060 with a 240mm rad with the fans never going above 40% (1000 rpm) even under load, so a 360 will have no problem keeping up.
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Dec 3, 2017 17:03
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Good to know, thank you.
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Dec 3, 2017 17:12
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The general rule of thumb is, iirc, 120mm for each component, plus another 120mm for each overclocked component, plus 120mm for headroom. Probably a bit overkill but it works. I have a 360mm and a 240mm for my 2600k and 1070. My temperatures are amazing.
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Dec 3, 2017 17:12
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