Mental Hospitality posted:

Another incredibly minor modification accomplished. I installed this shark fin antenna to replace the black stubby factory antenna.


Also, drat I loving love this color.

Mental Hospitality posted:

Also, drat I loving love this color.

Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:

Mom's Avalon again.

New to me window regulator + motor showed up. As I expected, I had to cut the cable on the old regulator to drop the window down a bit - only way I could get to the bolts that attach the window to the regulator. On that car, the window is attached by only 2 bolts, but without an angled 10mm wrench there was no way to get to the bolts without lowering the window (I had a socket set, but no wrenches handy).

Pretty easy swap aside from cutting the cable. New motor is a bit noisy and a little sluggish, but works. It's off of a 2000, so that's kinda expected.

Old regulator + motor: the regulator had the cable twisted up pretty badly in the spool. Motor wound up being fine, but I don't have the bits to remove it from the old regulator (some kind of 5 or 6 point screw, but not an allen head). So gently caress it, the noisy one stays. It has a 3 month warranty, and it's pretty easy to swap if you swap them as a unit.

Interior door handle fell apart when I removed the door panel though - just brittle from age I guess. I superglued it back together for now, but ordered a new one from Amazon (along with the bezel, which I managed to crack the first time I had the door open). At least the door panel comes off really easy on this car.

BlackMK4 posted:

yeah, i'm hosed.

BlackMK4 posted:

poo poo, I just turned 30

BlackMK4 posted:

poo poo, I just turned 30

Colostomy Bag posted:

This is one of those things I would like to see in production rate. Replacing a window regulator is quite unpleasant.

BlackMK4 posted:

poo poo, I just turned 30

KakerMix posted:

Out $173.84 for two trim pieces that I cracked on both doors on my Acty because I am a giant idiot. On the plus side at least the trim parts are available still even if I have to order them from Japan.


Also got the oil pan changed on my wife's Tracker. Tired of keeping the cardboard around to catch oil drips as they ooze out after sitting overnight. The oil pan looked fine but whoever worked on it before tweaked the gently caress out of the bolts, bending the pan in the points between allowing oil to seep. The manual neglected to mention there was another bolt holding the oil screen tube on the underside of the engine and that isn't easy to get to if you aren't using a lift
Oil leaks are stopped now it's decided to hesitate under load again, before it was a clogged fuel filter and I assume this is the same thing. That means the tank is cruddy and boy oh boy do I not want to go down that road, maybe I can just replace fuel filter every 6 months

Larrymer posted:

It has no rust or corrosion on it, dropping the tank can't be that bad can it? Unless there's a subframe in the way or something.

KakerMix posted:

Yeah it's clean and no, no subframe in the way. I just don't wanna

zharmad posted:

Awww, the poor truck is tired.





And you're all back together.

Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:

IOwnCalculus posted:

Either I'm blind or the camera isn't doing it justice because I'm not seeing the issue here. Unless you mean that entire padded piece?

Colostomy Bag posted:

Out of sick curiosity, how long did that take?

IOwnCalculus posted:

Bilsteins will do that.

Fifty Three posted:

The tan on the part with the red indicator (the lock button) doesn't match the tan around it.

Garage2Roadtrip posted:

In the interest of keeping my AW11 stock AF, I put a new reproduction shift boot and elbow pad on after I took out the center console and cleaned it thoroughly.


Bonus golden hour shot of the thing (with a stupid shadow).

zharmad posted:

6 hours Friday to get the dash apart, 8 hours Saturday replacing the heater core and all the associated hoses under the hood as well as doing a coolant flush. This is the second one I've done on this style vehicle (first was a '98 F150) so I went into it knowing a lot more about what I needed to do which cut down the time required massively. The only difference was removing the center console.

I can't complain too much, I bought the vehicle for $500 in June knowing full well that the thing had a heater core leak, but for that cheap and only 110k miles I thought it would be worth my time to fix. The P.O. thought it was just a simple coolant leak under the hood, but the whole car smelled like antifreeze and had a greasy residue on the windshield. I chose to bypass both heater cores entirely since the AC worked fine and you definitely don't need heat in Texas in the summer. I had planned to replace it labor day weekend but I ended up having to go into work for hurricane Harvey, so this was my first opportunity to do it.

At least the only things left on the list to do are brakes and (if I feel like it) replacing the spring in the dash cup holder so it pops out properly.

Ether Frenzy posted:

Shaking my head sadly, I tick the "lock button tan matches door panel tan" box as "NO" on my clipboard, here at the judging booth of the Avalon Class of the Pebble Beach Concours 2017

zharmad posted:

6 hours Friday to get the dash apart, 8 hours Saturday replacing the heater core and all the associated hoses under the hood as well as doing a coolant flush. This is the second one I've done on this style vehicle (first was a '98 F150) so I went into it knowing a lot more about what I needed to do which cut down the time required massively. The only difference was removing the center console.

I can't complain too much, I bought the vehicle for $500 in June knowing full well that the thing had a heater core leak, but for that cheap and only 110k miles I thought it would be worth my time to fix. The P.O. thought it was just a simple coolant leak under the hood, but the whole car smelled like antifreeze and had a greasy residue on the windshield. I chose to bypass both heater cores entirely since the AC worked fine and you definitely don't need heat in Texas in the summer. I had planned to replace it labor day weekend but I ended up having to go into work for hurricane Harvey, so this was my first opportunity to do it.

At least the only things left on the list to do are brakes and (if I feel like it) replacing the spring in the dash cup holder so it pops out properly.

StormDrain posted:

I get that feeling, I just halfway installed one of the tanks on my pickup today and gave up because it's late, it's difficult getting the hoses on (especially the 1 3/4" filler hose with wire that is not preformed), and I was getting frustrated.

I also spent a lot of time making studs and little brackets to flip the air cleaner from a 1993 Roadmaster backwards so it fits on the 72' IH, but realized after making nearly everything that the TBI to Carb adapter is threaded in 5/16x18 instead of the 8mmx1.25 bolts that came with the throttle body from the junkyard. Which means I've been jumping through hoops getting the right metric parts on multiple Ace Hardware bin excursions. Then when I finally got the right stuff, one of the 5/16 couplers ended up being a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter. It looks the same from the outside, just the wrong part was mixed in the bins. I was able to set the air box on anyway.. and it interferes with the throttle cable mount by a tiny bit.

For a moment I looked at installing this new gas pedal I scrounged from a GMC Van, but the flooring isn't sitting right *at all* in that area. I get the feeling the molded flooring wasn't molded for a tall enough hump in the middle, because it's too short on both sides.

So I got nothing done.

Colostomy Bag posted:

Thanks, had to ask just because I have a 98 expy which I hope I never have to do. Looks like you don't need to saw the evap housing on these?

edit: Another question, since mine isn't a f150 so it might be different, did you tackle the quick-lock lower rad hose thing?

zharmad posted:

This was an 01 Expedition, the air box which contains both the heater core and evaporator is held together with 7mm screws. The toughest part is just getting the passenger side of the dash far enough out for access.

For both the front core quicklocks and the rear I used this: http://a.co/8reSZHW. Since they were old and never before removed they still took a lot of force to get off. Enough to make me nervous, especially on the lower ones where the solid metal pipe isn't the most stable.