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Malcolm XML posted:Show us the circuit It’s an LED strip that is powered off a USB port. I want to turn the +5V line off when I give a zwave command. I’m not sure what there is to draw, sorry.
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# ? Oct 12, 2017 20:52 |
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# ? Apr 23, 2024 22:11 |
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Subjunctive posted:On the Pi, is there a way to control whether a USB port is powered or not? I'd like to use one to turn on/off a device that is just powered by USB. Maybe an Arduino would be better, but I think it'll be easier to do the zwave stuff from a Pi.
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# ? Oct 13, 2017 02:43 |
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John Big Booty posted:I've used this for one client. That’s interesting! I’ll look into that, thank you.
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# ? Oct 13, 2017 12:23 |
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Double post, but: Is there a way to get a second USB bus onto a Pi of any flavour? I'm not sure if there's enough bandwidth through GPIO to drive that, though I only need low speed. Googling only gets me information about adding ports to the existing controller, though I might be missing a keyword.
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# ? Oct 13, 2017 14:22 |
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Subjunctive posted:Is there a way to get a second USB bus onto a Pi of any flavour? I'm not sure if there's enough bandwidth through GPIO to drive that, though I only need low speed. Googling only gets me information about adding ports to the existing controller, though I might be missing a keyword. It should be possible to run one of these https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/products/interface/controllers-expanders/MAX3421E.html on the SPI bus. There does appear to be support for that chip in the Linux kernel.
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# ? Oct 13, 2017 15:27 |
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wolrah posted:It should be possible to run one of these https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/products/interface/controllers-expanders/MAX3421E.html on the SPI bus. There does appear to be support for that chip in the Linux kernel. Interesting, I’ll see if I can find something with one of those on board.
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# ? Oct 13, 2017 16:19 |
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I'm looking to get a Pi to use as a headless file server. Is this going to do me fine, or is there another option that's better/cheaper? I already have a USB SSD to plug in.
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# ? Oct 15, 2017 07:04 |
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FredMSloniker posted:I'm looking to get a Pi to use as a headless file server. Is this going to do me fine, or is there another option that's better/cheaper? I already have a USB SSD to plug in. That should work fine but bear in mind that the Pi is USB 2.0 so it's not going to be very fast. The SSD is probably overkill since it usually won't saturate the write speed of a mechanical disk.
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# ? Oct 15, 2017 08:37 |
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FredMSloniker posted:I'm looking to get a Pi to use as a headless file server. Is this going to do me fine, or is there another option that's better/cheaper? I already have a USB SSD to plug in. It is basically what I have. Works fine with Kodi, minidlna and my Telldus center all plus as a network Samba share.
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# ? Oct 15, 2017 14:43 |
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Subjunctive posted:It’s an LED strip that is powered off a USB port. I want to turn the +5V line off when I give a zwave command. I’m not sure what there is to draw, sorry. Is the USB port connected to mains or something else? If it's mains, just use a zwave switched plug thing. If it's a port, you will need to be able to shut off the port power which can be done by making an "interposer" type board with a bistable latching relay on the power pins of USB. You will need some way of getting zwave to toggle the relay states (Aren't you an engineering manager? How do you debug without code? ) Malcolm XML fucked around with this message at 14:59 on Oct 15, 2017 |
# ? Oct 15, 2017 14:56 |
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Malcolm XML posted:Is the USB port connected to mains or something else? If it's mains, just use a zwave switched plug thing. If it's a port, you will need to be able to shut off the port power which can be done by making an "interposer" type board with a bistable latching relay on the power pins of USB. You will need some way of getting zwave to toggle the relay states I’m a VC now, I’m not even allowed to read code. I may be able to make it work with a switched plug. I was hoping to have it automatically go on and off related to the TV and room lighting states. I may be able to program that into my zwave hub thing, I’ll have to look. Otherwise I’ll look into the relay option with a USB zwave dongle. Thank you!
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# ? Oct 15, 2017 22:27 |
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Subjunctive posted:I’m a VC now, I’m not even allowed to read code. If you’re getting deep into z-wave, consider Home Assistant on a Pi. It’s got support for tons of APIs, great automation and good z-wave support. The only downside is a json and yaml learning curve. Since you wanted to minimize buying new stuff, one of the cool tricks HA can do on a Pi is controlling $5 Etekcity plug switches with a $3 433mhz gpio module. I still use z-wave for critical jobs, and there’s no state reporting, but it work really well for dumb little things like LED strips behind my TV. (RX for initially sniffing codes on the right, TX on the left, cheap zwave stick out of frame) https://home-assistant.io/components/switch.rpi_rf/ eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Oct 15, 2017 |
# ? Oct 15, 2017 23:01 |
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Oh yeah, I’ve heard about HA. I bought this Pi originally to control my electric fireplace via zwave, and I have 433MHz rx/tx widgets for that. I can probably do that part with Arduino though, if I get WiFi on it. This has given me a lot to think about!
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# ? Oct 15, 2017 23:30 |
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Rexxed posted:That should work fine but bear in mind that the Pi is USB 2.0 so it's not going to be very fast. The SSD is probably overkill since it usually won't saturate the write speed of a mechanical disk. I already have the SSD from another project, so it's free. It's not very big, though. Anyone have a cheap recommendation for when I trade up? A terabyte is probably overkill, but I get the impression that's the low end these days.
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# ? Oct 16, 2017 00:01 |
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FredMSloniker posted:I already have the SSD from another project, so it's free. It's not very big, though. Anyone have a cheap recommendation for when I trade up? A terabyte is probably overkill, but I get the impression that's the low end these days. What are you actually trying to do? If you're just hosting a bunch of media to be streamed, a low-speed high capacity regular hard drive in an enclosure or as a pre-packaged external hard drive will do just fine. However it probably won't be able to run direct off the Pi's power supply as an SSD in an enclosure or premade external drive will. You can get a 4 terabyte Seagate external drive for $100 these days, or if you want something that's portable you can get Toshiba 3 terabyte portable drives for the same $100 (though keep in mind, your Pi may not be able to handle such drives' power needs without a powered hub). 1 terabyte SSDs on the other hand are still $250-$300 on their own, and a Pi will absolutely not make use of their benefits.
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# ? Oct 16, 2017 00:32 |
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I've got my pi3 not doing anything in particular at the moment, but had an idea to see if I could use it as a synthesizer or to turn say, an arcade stick into a drum pad or midi controller or something similar. Anyone have any suggestions on where to look into software for that sort of thing?
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# ? Oct 16, 2017 05:39 |
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Arrow Electronics has Raspberry Pi 3 Model B Project Board on sale for $34.99 - $7 w/ promotional code DEVBOARDS = $27.99. Shipping is free. Link - https://www.arrow.com/en/products/raspberrypi3/raspberry-pi-foundation
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# ? Oct 19, 2017 18:53 |
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Good that they cleared that one up
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# ? Oct 19, 2017 23:49 |
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Yeah, but it gets better. Did you click the little "i"?quote:Linux describes if the device supports Linux operating system or not and its supported versions
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# ? Oct 20, 2017 21:49 |
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I want to do a mobile display setup, is it feasible to set up a pi as a wifi hotspot (with no actual internet connection) and then have say, an iPad VNC into the pi?
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# ? Oct 23, 2017 04:19 |
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Sockser posted:I want to do a mobile display setup, is it feasible to set up a pi as a wifi hotspot (with no actual internet connection) and then have say, an iPad VNC into the pi? Yup, you're looking for hostapd. I don't suggest using the internal wifi on the Pi 3 though, I ended up using a USB stick that allowed me to connect an external antenna like this one. Make sure whatever hardware you decide to go with supports hostapd and AP mode, though. This list is a little outdated now but should put you in the right direction. I used to do this very frequently on one of my touring gigs for synchronous data display. I set it up as a wifi AP using hostapd and had multiple view-only connections from iPads to duplicate the HDMI output without issue. As a bonus, you can use the internal wifi to connect to another AP with internet, or use the wired ethernet and route internet requests from your hostapd AP. I did this a lot too so we only had to enter a venue's wifi credentials once into the pi and everybody would get internet access without hassle.
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# ? Oct 23, 2017 05:22 |
So this may be a shot in the dark, but maybe there's some intersect between Raspberry Pi goons and goons who also happen to know a thing or two about audio. For awhile now I've been wanting to use the spare RPi2 that I have lying around to build an internet radio box. My requirements are:
The last time I researched this, it seemed like that HiFiBerry Amp+ would come close to giving me what I wanted easily -- except the sound quality wouldn't be wonderful, and powering an LCD display from the same power supply would be tricky. Then I saw that HiFiBerry recently released the Amp2, which seems like it would make the job easier. Since the Amp2 has GPIO pins and more power than the Amp+, I should be able to hook the Adafruit display up to it with no issues, so long as I use a beefy enough power supply, right? Everything (including the Pi) gets powered directly through the Amp2. After that, I assume it's just a matter of finding some passive speakers. There are tons of tiny, cheapass speakers out there, but I want something with a little bit more quality. So I've been looking at finding cheap used speakers on eBay. Will there be an issue with the lack of magnetic shielding once I put everything in the same case (and if so, how can I ameliorate this?) Or if I repurpose an old commercial radio from a thrift shop, I should just be able to plug the speakers directly into the HiFiBerry Amp2, right? Drone fucked around with this message at 12:41 on Oct 23, 2017 |
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# ? Oct 23, 2017 12:15 |
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ickna posted:Yup, you're looking for hostapd. I don't suggest using the internal wifi on the Pi 3 though, I ended up using a USB stick that allowed me to connect an external antenna like this one. Make sure whatever hardware you decide to go with supports hostapd and AP mode, though. This list is a little outdated now but should put you in the right direction. So I’m hopefully gonna get into this tonight, but my idea is to build a giant working gameboy as my Halloween costume, and by giant I mean a measly 1ftx2ft gameboy that I can wear as a sandwich board. I’m going to make some lo-fi buttons that I can stick to the front with some copper tape and upholstery foam, run their wires to an Arduino/teensy that I can map to keyboard controls and plug into a Pi zero as a usb keyboard And then I should be able to VNC into desktop:0 from the iPad stuck to my chest and open a gameboy emulator and let people play Tetris on my body all night I think? Am I going to hit super dumb latency problems or issues with using a keyboard connected directly to the Pi over VNC or anything? VNC is super outside what I normally work with.
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# ? Oct 23, 2017 20:16 |
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Why are you involving a Pi Zero in this at all? The iPad supports USB keyboards natively and would likely be much better at running emulators than a Pi Zero forwarding frames over WiFi. Also the Pi internal wifi is CPU heavy to the point that running a webcam on a 0W can interfere with its ability to feed instructions to a 3D printer. That's pretty bad. Just do the Teensy-based input device direct to the tablet.
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# ? Oct 23, 2017 21:07 |
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Sockser posted:Am I going to hit super dumb latency problems or issues with using a keyboard connected directly to the Pi over VNC or anything? VNC is super outside what I normally work with. Yeah I would just do the game on the ipad. A Pi Zero won’t have the chops to keep up with all you’re asking of it here.
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# ? Oct 23, 2017 21:17 |
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Yeah actually this is a trash iPad 1 that my mom was gonna sell for $20 on craigslist so I may as well jailbreak it and run emulators on it directly E: it is the nature of an owner of a pile of raspis to want to put them in every project, I guess vv Sockser fucked around with this message at 21:51 on Oct 23, 2017 |
# ? Oct 23, 2017 21:19 |
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Turns out hooking an arduino to a 30 pin Apple dock connector is a nigh impossible task. Would not recommend.
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# ? Oct 27, 2017 02:20 |
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It's not exactly what you talked about but I wanted to find a similar internet-radio solution, found everything way too much work/effort and just got one of the huge pile of chinese bluetooth speakers for like, 5 bucks I think. They sound nicer/louder than one would ever assume. Also the bluetooth range is kinda impressive. Not exactly for listening to your collection of .flacs, but for some internet radio it's more than good enough. I don't use a Pi with this, just my regular old computer.
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# ? Oct 27, 2017 02:59 |
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An old smartphone paired with one a them bluetooth speakers works pretty good as well. You don't even need a special app, just find the stream URL and it should play just dandy.
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# ? Oct 27, 2017 09:04 |
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Quick question, on the Pi Zero I have seen it done where a jumper wire between PP20 to Pin 2 of the Pi Zero GPIO Header will carry 5V from the HDMI Connector to the rest of the Pi Zero thus eliminating the need for a separate power cable. Can this be done to the Pi 3 as well? With the pizero it seems to power it just fine so wasn't sure if that'd still apply before I go attempting it. Forgot the rest of this initially. Also using this for the adapter power with this minor solder for the zero. Kodilynn fucked around with this message at 16:26 on Oct 29, 2017 |
# ? Oct 29, 2017 16:14 |
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Kodilynn posted:Can this be done to the Pi 3 as well? With the pizero it seems to power it just fine so wasn't sure if that'd still apply before I go attempting it. I don't see a reason why that shouldn't work assuming your USB power source can handle the Pi 3's demand and the loss in the HDMI cable, but I am curious why you'd want to power a Pi 3 over HDMI with a weird standards-breaking adapter like that. The Zero pictured makes sense since it's being used inside a game controller where having a single cable exiting the center is important for a reasonable feel. Doing non-standard things to achieve that is a reasonable tradeoff, but I'm having a harder time coming up with where that would be necessary with a larger device. I'm tired of finding homebrew power-over-ethernet solutions when I work on networks so I'm kind of over just passively injecting power where it isn't expected to be as a general rule. Solutions like 802.3af and MHL which intelligently inject power only when the device at the far end actually asks for it are the correct answer.
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# ? Oct 29, 2017 17:39 |
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wolrah posted:I don't see a reason why that shouldn't work assuming your USB power source can handle the Pi 3's demand and the loss in the HDMI cable, but I am curious why you'd want to power a Pi 3 over HDMI with a weird standards-breaking adapter like that. Honestly it's just to cut down the number of cables. I'm putting a pi3 in an SNES Advantage I got for free that works, and the less cables I have running out of it the better for aesthetics. I suppose it doesn't matter, but routing everything through the plug and routing an HDMI cable through it instead just seemed appealing to not have a whole bunch of extra cables to worry about plugging in. I've done a pi zero in an snes controller with the same process and that worked great. Was nice not to have to worry about an extra power supply, but I want to go bigger with the pi3 without sacrificing the clean look and need to run an extension cable when 6ft. power cord isn't enough.
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# ? Oct 30, 2017 00:37 |
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Do you mean MHL? I thought the HDMI pin 18 power went from source to sink, and only 50mA at that.
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# ? Oct 30, 2017 00:54 |
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Yeah MHL means HDMI ports that can supply power roughly equivalent to a common USB 2.0 port's output - if I remember right it usually stops at 5 volt/1 amp. That wouldn't really be enough power for a Pi 3 though, you'd be better off just building a custom cable that carries a normal HDMI cable and a separate USB cable running to a high-output power adapter You wouldn't even need to like cut up existing cable for that, there are often long lengths of slit open cable that you can stuff the two things into and through into the case on one end and to split out to the respective sockets on the other.
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# ? Oct 30, 2017 01:41 |
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fishmech posted:Yeah MHL means HDMI ports that can supply power roughly equivalent to a common USB 2.0 port's output - if I remember right it usually stops at 5 volt/1 amp. Gotcha. Right on, thanks!
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# ? Oct 30, 2017 17:00 |
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I've thrown the newest FreeBSD RELEASE on my Pi 2 (after trying out ~about two years ago, hardware support was kinda shaky then) and it works really well and was a breeze to set up. I also "upgraded" to a $10 Sandisk 64 GB SDCard. (Tested and both capacity and speed are genuine and what to be expected of this class card. It was so cheap because it's "refurbished", here's a hint: There's nothing to refurbish on an SD card. These are all cards that were probably barely used and then RMAd for whatever reason. They're tested and work well, never made a bad experience with them. They have been stamped with the letters "REFURB" though, probably so they won't get resold as new for a higher price and for warranty reasons) The FreeBSD image booted right off the bat and even resized the partition automagically without any user intervention. Firewall and network services were a breeze to set up. (as experienced Gentoo user, FreeBSD is not as big as an paradigm shift so YMMV) I'm using it as DHCP/DNS/NTP/Telnet/FTP-Server for old computers (hence Telnet/FTP - only LAN - no worries) and it works nicely. The documentation of FreeBSD is detailed and a dream and there are lot of packages for ARMv6. Sadly it's Tier 2 (and probably always will be considering the vast differences of machines in the ARM platform) so there will maybe never be an "freebsd-update" but if you stick to release and use crochet it's not that big of a deal with an SD card. In a world were the Linux base software landscape becomes more and more fragmented and/or bloaty looking at FreeBSD might be worth it, all my interactions with *BSD systems so far were nothing but pleasant. The only problem is that it even supports less hardware than Linux and is significantly behind it in graphics stuff. Situation reminds me a bit of early '00s Linux vs. Windows. There's a compatibility shim for Linux stuff but don't ask me, I don't know a lot about it.
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# ? Nov 4, 2017 01:30 |
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anyone got a good link for doing a headless setup of a zero W? I've got all the cables and adapters to do it with a monitor but I'd rather not go through the trouble. All I really need is to get it hooked up on my wifi and be able to SSH in to get the rest of it set up.
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# ? Nov 5, 2017 09:17 |
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GobiasIndustries posted:anyone got a good link for doing a headless setup of a zero W? I've got all the cables and adapters to do it with a monitor but I'd rather not go through the trouble. All I really need is to get it hooked up on my wifi and be able to SSH in to get the rest of it set up. https://core-electronics.com.au/tutorials/raspberry-pi-zerow-headless-wifi-setup.html
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# ? Nov 5, 2017 09:45 |
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I want to play around with "high-speed" computer vision on a Pi3 or pi-like. I'm mainly wondering what the highest fps i can get (even if it is really low res). I see, for example some 2MP usb camera modules on ebay for $40 or so that claim to be capable of 120fps at lowered resolutions like 320x240. Another option could be a mouse optical flow sensor, i know some are used to aid with quadcopter position holding, and have resolution of 30x30 for the common ADNS3080 chip. As I understand it, these chips process tens of thousands of frames a second for calculating flow data, but actually grabbing a frame off the chip is much slower, ~100fps tops if my rough calculation is correct, probably a lot less in practice? So any particular recommendations for camera modules, and/or system to run them? With a total budget of ~$100 for computer + camera.
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# ? Nov 7, 2017 03:19 |
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# ? Apr 23, 2024 22:11 |
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Rexxed posted:https://core-electronics.com.au/tutorials/raspberry-pi-zerow-headless-wifi-setup.html Thank you! Worked like a charm.
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# ? Nov 7, 2017 06:19 |