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Went to open the hood for a routine fluid check, and the release cable decided to break instead.
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Oct 16, 2017 06:31
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chrisgt posted:That doesn't usually happen for me until the bulb burns out.... My Mercedes doesn't have a CEL, it's weird... I'm so used to being warned the engine might have gone missing. My BMW e34 doesn't have a bulb in the check engine icon, only the US market cars got them that early (1990). Apparently if I fitted a bulb it would just flash all the time for no reason unless I did some electrickery with diodes/resisters or whatever.
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Oct 16, 2017 10:06
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Root Bear posted:Went to open the hood for a routine fluid check, and the release cable decided to break instead. Now you have lifetime fluids, perfect!
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Oct 16, 2017 13:12
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Root Bear posted:Went to open the hood for a routine fluid check, and the release cable decided to break instead. To be honest, this is somewhat of a nightmare scenario for me depending on the vehicle.
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Oct 16, 2017 15:31
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C-Bangin' it 
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monsterzero posted:
Thanks. Due to your hard work the automotive CEL gods just happened to hit my vehicle yesterday. I knew it was coming but I hope you feel good about yourself on the misery you inflicted upon me.
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Oct 16, 2017 16:02
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StormDrain posted:(intake leak making an awful whistle).  Something Awful whistle
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Oct 16, 2017 18:32
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Colostomy Bag posted:Thanks. Due to your hard work the automotive CEL gods just happened to hit my vehicle yesterday. I knew it was coming but I hope you feel good about yourself on the misery you inflicted upon me. Stay safe SBC ghost.
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Oct 16, 2017 19:11
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Boys who love boys
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At some point you may as well treat the CEL like a power light.
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Oct 16, 2017 19:45
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Replaced the passenger side front wheel bearing for the third time this year. Don't buy O'Reilly's house brand bearings...first one had some kind of seal failure (grease was weeping out of it after about a week of it being installed) and the post mortem on the second looked like it didn't have enough grease or there was something wrong with it - the internals were discolored, it smelled burned and what grease was left had the consistency of soft wax.
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Oct 17, 2017 15:25
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EvilBeard posted:What's the actual color? I'm going to dip my car soon. I was thinking about colorshift. You used the DYC sprayer? I was going to try shooting it through my DeVilbiss primer gun. So I did four separate layers actually. Started with a basecoat of 2 gallons of Gunmetal Grey, then sprayed about 4 gallons of Koi Orange, topped that with 2 gallons of top coat with 150 grams of phoenix pearls, then did two more gallons of gloss top coat. Its probably 10-12 coats in total and I used the DYC Sprayer. I started with my cheap HVLP gun from Harbor Freight, didn't like the coverage/atomization I was getting so switched to a Graco airless sprayer. Didn't like how that one laid the paint down so I just wound up getting the DYC Sprayer. I probably would have used less of the Koi Orange if I hadn't switched guns twice. I'd love to find a nice HVLP gun to use with my compressor, but I couldn't find enough recommendations for what gun to use so I just went with the DYC sprayer since I figured it would be reliable.
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Oct 17, 2017 15:46
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I was tired of the S4 being silent, but I didn't want to go as far as putting an axle-back or full system on the car. I wanted it to be easily reversible too. I decided that the ECS Tuning x-pipe center resonator delete kit seemed the most reasonable. Plus, the video comparisons of noise sounded about like what I wanted. Threw the car on the lift.  Gathered poo poo.  Comparison:  Installed.  Sounds nice, has a bit of a growl to it now. Maybe a tiny bit drone-y at 2250-2350rpm, but not like "unable to hear music or passengers" type of noise.
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Oct 17, 2017 17:46
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:a lift  Today I replaced the fuel tank and fuel pump on my wife's Tracker due to power cutting out then back on again under acceleration. Did this when we first got it, I replaced the fuel filter. 6~ months later it starts doing it again, replace the fuel filter again and make a note that a fuel tank drop is in the future. Two days later it starts the symptoms again.    Makes sense. With the low mileage and it's snowbird-status throughout it's life before we took ownership this is exactly what I expected to be in the tank waiting for me. Multiple years in a row of storing the vehicle away for the summer with a quarter tank of fuel or less probably. This Tracker is by far the most work I've done on any vehicle of ours but my wife loves it so much, I love it because it's super easy to work on and the parts are cheap. A ~glorious~ Nippon-made fuel pump plus brand new tank cost me just under 200 bucks. An afternoon (would have taken a lot less if I had a lift ) and that issue is sorted. Now I can do the really important stuff: OFFICIAL OEM SUZUKI HVAC VENTS. 90s plastic is brittle and stupid so both the center stack and passenger side vents have snapped just from manipulation now that she has A/C again. Since I ordered some stuff for my Acty I checked out if amayama had them and sure enough a full suite of parts for the Suzuki Escudo aka Sidekick aka Tracker. 25 for the smaller one and 30 for the larger one isn't bad at all considering stuff like this is the the hardest stuff to find.
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Oct 18, 2017 02:16
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Geoj posted:Replaced the passenger side front wheel bearing for the third time this year. Hub assembly or the pressed bearings? I've had a couple issues with the masterpro hub assemblies for chevy trucks showing up with a doa bearing a few times before, but the press in bearings have been fairly decent. I still just drop the money for bca/national anyways when I buy bearings. 
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Oct 18, 2017 02:36
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I went full autismo and fixed something in my car with a part from a trash can sold in Europe. It worked.quote:So my car has one of those dash tray center console things with the lid that pushes down to close and open, but the 'fingers' that hold the lid striker broke. If you remove the lid assembly from the center vent assembly via the two screws on the bottom you can remove the latch itself. I looked around a little bit and came to find these are called push-push latches and look like this:
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Oct 18, 2017 17:51
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As an inveterate catalogue molester myself, I am in awe of your parts-scouring skills.
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Oct 18, 2017 17:53
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BlackMK4 posted:I went full autismo and fixed something in my car with a part from a trash can sold in Europe. It worked. Well done. It can be super hard finding poo poo like that. Half the battle is just figuring out what a part is called.
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Oct 18, 2017 17:54
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Good job, I love it.
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Oct 18, 2017 18:25
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Hub assembly or the pressed bearings? I've had a couple issues with the masterpro hub assemblies for chevy trucks showing up with a doa bearing a few times before, but the press in bearings have been fairly decent. I still just drop the money for bca/national anyways when I buy bearings. Pressed in. First time needed it same day and they didn't have anything else within reasonable driving range and the second was a warranty replacement.
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Oct 18, 2017 21:08
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Once again, mom's Avalon. It went to the shop yesterday, she got it back today. Total parts replaced: both front LCAs (bushings were pretty much gone, was easier to just swap the arm as a unit), front bump stops, both front struts (KYB - been on the list awhile, rear shocks were done earlier this year), sway bar end link, and a strut mount. Total labor was a bit over $300, which is IMO, pretty decent, even for the friends and family rate (quick struts were not used.. original springs went back in). They specialize in Toyota and Honda, but will work on most Asian makes, and I've known the owner about 20 years. Total bill was less than 4 figures, which seems pretty reasonable for that amount of work (that's including a 4 wheel alignment; when the rear shocks were done, it was decided she'd hold off on the alignment until she did the front struts). We got a little bit of a friends and family discount (I've known the owner for nearly 20 years), but given his normally reasonable pricing, and the fact that he just added on to his shop and now has 3 full time employees instead of just him, I doubt it was much. He's got a lot more overhead now.
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Oct 18, 2017 21:26
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^^ That's a pretty good rate from a shop.Boaz MacPhereson posted:Well done. It can be super hard finding poo poo like that. Half the battle is just figuring out what a part is called. For real, especially this thing. I couldn't find anywhere to buy the part other than in lots of 1000. 
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Oct 18, 2017 21:27
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BlackMK4 posted:I went full autismo and fixed something in my car with a part from a trash can sold in Europe. It worked. I'm curious about this so I went looking for this at least where you could find this part number. http://jp-carparts.com/toyota/partlist.php?maker=toyota&type=242110&cartype=5&fig=8603  Is anything in here what you are after? Like I said earlier I went and ordered some Suzuki Escudo trim parts for my wife's Tracker because why not, but since the Alezza Gita in Japan is the IS300 Sportcross here maybe? I know door cards for our SC300 are interchangeable with Japanese Toyota Soarer door cards. http://jp-carparts.com hasn't let me down yet.
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Oct 18, 2017 22:53
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KakerMix posted:I'm curious about this so I went looking for this at least where you could find this part number. It's not on the list there. I personally haven't been able to find the drat thing in parts diagrams or find the part number, but this is it.  I think they were like $120 new
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Oct 18, 2017 23:10
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Today I'm priming and painting the ute. The primer on the fender, roof and door went well after I eventually remembered how to set up a HVLP gun. Tail light corner is giving me grief though with some pin holes int he filler and too many high spots I missed stopping me rubbing back the pinholes smooth. I just made the primer as thick as could spray and about to rub it back again. For the final time. If it looks awful still, then too bad. It's 3.26PM now (I started at 12PM), and the gun needs to be cleaned out and some base coat needs going on today because who knows how long it will take me to reassemble everything tomorrow, and if I remember how. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 08:31 on Oct 19, 2017 |
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Oct 19, 2017 08:28
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That did not go well, at all. Oh well, there's always tomorrow I think.
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Oct 19, 2017 11:50
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I finally got around to finishing up the beater 996 our for inspection today and the alternator was dead so I had to reschedule for 3 weeks from now
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Oct 19, 2017 22:51
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Been fighting a misfire on my 98 expedition. Everyone who owns a 4.6 and a 5.4 knows about the COPS. Long story short it finally threw a permanent code. And it was the dreaded P0304. Rather stick my dick in a light socket because, well, it is hell to do especially if you have rear air. Anyways, yank the COP off, the boot is stuck to the plug. Removed fuse box to gain more access, let WD40 soak in the plug well and finally was able to yank the boot. Get everything back together...drat thing won't start. Cranks, fires, stumbles, dies. Retrace my steps and thinking I hosed up the harness or something and felt dejected. Farted around and discovered it turned out to be the PCV tube that goes from the valve cover to the back of the intake manifold that I unplugged to make more room. Kinda befuddled how that would cause a no-start but I'll take the victory. Usually the elbow cracks and will toss a lean code on both banks. Replaced it before. Anyways, sorry for the rambling. One of those if you all were at a bar with me I'd buy a round of drinks.
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Oct 19, 2017 23:40
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My colour is lighter and not a quite a match. I was hoping it was only because I haven't put on any clear, but even this photo of the old faded paint and peeled clear coat on the canopy shows it should be slightly darker  Also shown is the spray pattern giving you the colour difference of the paint too. I think it's going on too dry and in very small amounts so the paint job looks patchey and maybe why it's still too light in colour. It could be my fault moving the gun too fast and not overlapping enough (I'm doing everything to avoid runs as they means tools down, big delay etc until I can rub it back). But also could be my gun or set up  I've done 5 extremely light coats today. Yesterday I stuffed up, dented panels, split paint before mixing properly and made a mess in my garage and ute tray and tools sitting in there, went with what was in the gun anyway and got runs so I had to stop.E: to paint pros: It doesn't seem right that I've done 4 coats on the door, fender, roof and rear smash repair area and only used ~500ml base. I swear my gun is putting it on too light, but I don't want to push it and risk runs. What have I got wrong in my setup or technique (beside the paint too lightly tinted)? Fo3 fucked around with this message at 13:20 on Oct 20, 2017 |
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Oct 20, 2017 12:35
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So I got my car preserved with wax and the fumes in the lovely tire shop just got all over the outside so now I have that stuff coating my windshield. Whats the best way to get rid of it?
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Oct 20, 2017 14:08
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Colostomy Bag posted:Been fighting a misfire on my 98 expedition. Everyone who owns a 4.6 and a 5.4 knows about the COPS. I'm getting a P0303 (I think) in my Crown Vic. I guess I'd better right it down rather than just clear it next time, and deal with it.
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Oct 20, 2017 18:06
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Darchangel posted:I'm getting a P0303 (I think) in my Crown Vic. I guess I'd better right it down rather than just clear it next time, and deal with it. Yeah, my son owns a Vic and I kinda chuckled to myself on how easy those look to replace. 1) Rockauto has a Denso for around $20 which is OEM. Ford basically tosses a Motorcraft sticker on it. 2) Buy all eight from Amazon for $29 (who knows the quality but free prime 2 day shipping). 3) Any local Autozone/Napa/Advance will be $50 each and probably come out of Kowloon. Of course you need to factor in plug life when handling a misfire. Not sure if your 4.6 has the spark plug blowout issue so look that one up.
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Oct 20, 2017 18:49
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jdm tyte son  
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Oct 20, 2017 20:16
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KakerMix posted:jdm tyte son You have no idea how happy I am to be on a forum where people buy OEM trim to replace on their weird tiny shitboxes.
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Oct 20, 2017 21:37
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i didnt even see the poster at first but saw the car and was like yeah thats gotta be a kaker ride
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Oct 20, 2017 21:43
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Colostomy Bag posted:Yeah, my son owns a Vic and I kinda chuckled to myself on how easy those look to replace. I saw the set on Amazon. Might give them a whirl. Plugs should be fine - I replaced them earlier in the year. As far as I know, my 2005 doesn't have the plug issues. They all came out and went back in cleanly, and I used proper anti-seize.
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Oct 20, 2017 21:43
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Seat Safety Switch posted:You have no idea how happy I am to be on a forum where people buy OEM trim to replace on their weird tiny shitboxes. I mean, how can you not?
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Oct 21, 2017 00:09
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Rotated tires, swapped back to street pads, trans fluid and oil change.  
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Oct 21, 2017 01:28
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My partners 2005 Mazda 3 broke down in the driveway, conveniently right in front of the garage door completely blocking my car in (there is enough of a slope that it's impossible to push her car back). Fortunately there was just enough room for my dad to tow it out of the way with his Legacy so while it's still broken it isn't causing an immediate issue.
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Oct 21, 2017 03:12
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Darchangel posted:I saw the set on Amazon. Might give them a whirl. Plugs should be fine - I replaced them earlier in the year. As far as I know, my 2005 doesn't have the plug issues. They all came out and went back in cleanly, and I used proper anti-seize. Well I went with option #2. Amazon 8 pack of coils delivered within two days Rolling the dice but I'll see how it goes.
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Oct 21, 2017 03:52
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Darchangel posted:I saw the set on Amazon. Might give them a whirl. Plugs should be fine - I replaced them earlier in the year. As far as I know, my 2005 doesn't have the plug issues. They all came out and went back in cleanly, and I used proper anti-seize. What's this about anti-seize? Hasn't totalnewbie said several times now that you should only use it on unplated black plugs, and anti-seize on nickel (or whatever) plated shiny plugs is a no-no?
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Oct 21, 2017 06:30
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Reminds me, I was trying to remove stubborn tie rod end jam nuts the other day so I put some antiseize on the threads to try and get the nut moving more smoothly, then ended up heating it all with a torch. I think I basically brazed the loving nut on. Or I could just be crazy, I dunno.
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Oct 21, 2017 08:07
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