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I have a Pioneer head unit in my 2009 Mitsubishi evo X and the previous owner did a very nice installation but the steering wheel control adapter is poo poo. it quite regularly drops the skip button function, which is probably the most important function. skip back will usually work, as will volume. Phone controls are usually OK but there is the odd occasion that it drops them all and nothing works. attempting to reprogram the head units steering controls does not resolve the issue, usually it comes back on its own OR stays broken until the car is turned off. it appears to be this one, or identical one made by another brand: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Aerpro-C...s0AAOSwpONZVcBm What is the best/favorite/popular one to use? Also, if possible, I would love one that allows me to reprogram the buttons. I currently have Vol +/- and >>| / |<< and MODE (which is source). I want MODE to be Play/Pause because I dont really ever change off BT audio.
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Sep 19, 2017 06:12
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2003 Toyota Avalon with the JBL sound system option. One of the rear speakers is blown (as in the cone and surround are pretty much gone; the coil isn't fried - it just farts instead of making music now). I had one door apart the other day trying to fix a window motor, and noticed the speakers are rated as 2 ohm. The rest of the speakers don't sound so great anymore either - the one I saw up close when I was in a door was surprisingly lovely for a "JBL" speaker (paper cone, etc). I'm guessing the only issue with dropping in 4 ohm speakers in the back is that they won't be as loud, right? I wouldn't think going up in resistance would hurt anything? Crutchfield seems to think most 6.5 and 6.75 inch speakers will drop in fine with the JBL system. At the moment the fader is set to 100% front anyway. She mostly just listens to talk radio and oldies, so loudness and clarity aren't really high on the priority list.
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Sep 19, 2017 07:32
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:2003 Toyota Avalon with the JBL sound system option. You're talking literally 2x impedance, which will likely be really noticeable. Also, if you're keeping the 2ohm speakers in the front the system will be totally unbalanced, your rears are going to be totally drowned out by the fronts. You're better off just unplugging your rear speakers and just going with the fronts rather than trying to run them like that. Or just get a replacement OEM speaker from eBay or a junkyard.
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Sep 19, 2017 08:02
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Laserface posted:I have a Pioneer head unit in my 2009 Mitsubishi evo X and the previous owner did a very nice installation but the steering wheel control adapter is poo poo. I have the Metra AWSC1 in my Jeep. Works great, it even picks up the signal over the pci bus instead of needing to hack the wiring harness. Might be different for your car. It does support button remapping but I haven't tried it
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Sep 19, 2017 08:39
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I used the same thing on my Subaru and it worked great. Had to program the buttons manually and it wasn't too hard so I'd think remapping wouldn't be a problem. But for sure make sure it works with your vehicle specifically, my volvo needed something most specialized.
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Sep 19, 2017 18:32
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I've never had steering wheel controls myself so YMMV, but from what I understand PAC, Axxess, and Metra come the most recommended.
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Sep 19, 2017 18:42
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I have another dumb question. The speakers I'm replacing the factory ones with are https://www.crutchfield.com/S-84kI55G4D6R/p_10869311I/Infinity-Kappa-693-11i.html these infinity speakers and the same series components for the front. Thing is, if you look at picture 2 on the crutchfield site, you can see the wire connection spot, which is a screw down type. The instructions are super unclear about how it wants the wire -- the diagram looks like the wire should go through the same hole that the screw does and then you screw it in, but, there's an opening on the bottom where you can feed the wire in and clamp down the wire with the end of the screw? What's the best way to hook this kind of connection up?
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Sep 20, 2017 23:33
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I need a new head unit. I'm using an old sony CD player head unit, the sound is great but none of the buttons work on the face plate. Thinking of picking up this one: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158N5100BT/Sony-MEX-N5100BT.html?tp=72430&avf=Y Would I be making a good choice? I like that you can use the app to browse the files on an attached USB stick. The only thing is I wish there were less bands on the EQ. I like being able to simply adjust bass, mid, and treble, so I'm considering this too: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500CDE143B/Alpine-CDE-143BT.html It just doesn't have the cool ability to browse the files on your USB stick from an app Trollipop fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Sep 21, 2017 |
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Sep 20, 2017 23:59
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dahkren posted:I have another dumb question. The speakers I'm replacing the factory ones with are https://www.crutchfield.com/S-84kI55G4D6R/p_10869311I/Infinity-Kappa-693-11i.html these infinity speakers and the same series components for the front. Clamp it down with the end of the screw.
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Sep 21, 2017 01:35
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dahkren posted:I have another dumb question. The speakers I'm replacing the factory ones with are https://www.crutchfield.com/S-84kI55G4D6R/p_10869311I/Infinity-Kappa-693-11i.html these infinity speakers and the same series components for the front. Back the screws out, put the wire into the opening that is created from backing them out. Tighten screws.
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Sep 21, 2017 01:49
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MikeyTsi posted:You're talking literally 2x impedance, which will likely be really noticeable. Also, if you're keeping the 2ohm speakers in the front the system will be totally unbalanced, your rears are going to be totally drowned out by the fronts. Replacing the front speakers is also in the works - they sound better, but they're on their way out. Keep in mind the rear speakers are in the doors, and the car is mostly driven with just the driver. Setting the fader to the front has "fixed" it for now, and with the rears down low, they're truly only there for rear passengers anyway. There's a powered sub, I haven't looked into how easy it is to hook into an aftermarket system (I do know it sits in the rear deck, so it gets sun baked... meatpimp mentioned his 2001 needed a new surround on the sub in his). i'd like to eventually replace the head unit with something with bluetooth (since her drat phone is glued to her ear 24/7); I'm told it's not that hard to get around the JBL amps anyway? I guess I need to look at Crutchfield a bit more. The newest speaker in a junkyard that will be a direct fit will only be 1 year newer, and I have yet to find anything newer than an 01 in a self-service yard here. Apparently I can still get the speakers from the dealer, but they're $$$$ compared to a far better set of aftermarket speakers (not terrible - about $40/ea online, but still...) Honestly, if it were my car, it would have a tasteful double DIN HU, the JBL amps bypassed, decent quality speakers, and bluetooth. Those factory speaker dash pods would make for some awesome tweeter locations too. But I need to keep it easy enough for a 70 year old to use. 
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Sep 21, 2017 08:47
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Words I checked eBay a few days ago and they had several listed that seemed pretty cheap and were listed as fitting. Upgrading the whole system would be a good plan though. Provided you set everything up and give a short training session most in-dash units aren't really all that difficult to get the hang of. Depending on how the amp is set up it could be as easy as just looping the connector that the head unit plugs in to so it's a direct path to the speakers. I've had some luck finding connectors that match things like this from metra or scosche, I just went to the local fry's and looked through them until I found one that matched. In my case I connected my aftermarket amp to it to create an adapter harness to the existing speaker wiring, but if you find the pin-outs you could just as easily loop the wires (you'd need the proper pins for the connector) to make it a straight path from the aftermarket internal amp in the head unit to the speakers.
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Sep 21, 2017 19:58
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I bought a car earlier this year and it came with a Blaupunkt Casablanca CD51 head unit but the guy didn't have the face. Is there a way I could just get a face for it, or what would be a good cheap unit I could just plug in with minimal effort? I have a couple of head units in the garage but they require a much different connector. Is this my best bet? $10 shipping from Germany it looks like, cheaper than I thought it would be... or would this plug into my existing harness? CornHolio fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Sep 22, 2017 |
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Sep 22, 2017 19:07
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Anyone got any single-DIN suggestions (can be a cd player or just a media receiver) that are super minimal in design? I want to replace the radio cassette in a Jaguar XK8 which looks like this: I can't bring myself to replace that with something with a 2-inch chromed PIONEER logo and dozens of LEDs. I'd be willing to spend up to $300 - anyone got any suggestions?
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Sep 23, 2017 14:57
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Continental makes nice single din headunits. might be tricky to find in the US for less than $300 with bluetooth etc though. It also doesn't have any line out if you need that Jensen makes a few more high end units, primarily for the truck market. http://www.heavydutyradios.com/jhd1635bt.html Porsche makes a really nice one for classic 911s but those are like $1200 https://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesandservices/classic/genuineparts/producthighlights/navi/ Humbug fucked around with this message at 17:05 on Sep 23, 2017 |
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Sep 23, 2017 17:00
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Kenwood has nice ones, too. The one I have (which has since been discontinued, but by way of an example) is decent: The buttons do light up to a reasonable degree but it's not a loving chinese rave that the people in the back seat can read by like most of the cheaper ones.
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Sep 25, 2017 02:35
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my Pioneer double DIN is actually fairly good at blending in, once you turn off the MIXTRAX(tm) 'lets-make-the-car-into-a-nightclub' feature and then customise the lighting to match the interior lighting. I dont know why they still use such horrible resolution dot-matrix/LCD displays though. a plain white on black OLED hi-res display like that Kenwood would be so much nicer to read.
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Sep 25, 2017 02:49
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Many OEM head units, even if DIN/2DIN also have some connection so they dim the display and lights together with the dashboard lights if you turn that knob, which I find really nice for night driving. I have yet to see a 3rd party one that does that. Are there any that do that?
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Sep 25, 2017 10:19
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ionn posted:Many OEM head units, even if DIN/2DIN also have some connection so they dim the display and lights together with the dashboard lights if you turn that knob, which I find really nice for night driving. I have yet to see a 3rd party one that does that. Are there any that do that? alot?
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Sep 25, 2017 10:27
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Laserface posted:I dont know why they still use such horrible resolution dot-matrix/LCD displays though. a plain white on black OLED hi-res display like that Kenwood would be so much nicer to read. OLED would be much nicer yeah but the reason why they use lovely displays still... CA$H MON£Y
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Sep 25, 2017 11:30
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ionn posted:Many OEM head units, even if DIN/2DIN also have some connection so they dim the display and lights together with the dashboard lights if you turn that knob, which I find really nice for night driving. I have yet to see a 3rd party one that does that. Are there any that do that? Most good brands do so long as you avoid their bottom of the line stuff. My mid tier Pioneer not only dims, but it lets you change the colors when the lights come on. I have it set to a bright color during the day, and it matches my dash lighting (sorta) at night.
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Sep 25, 2017 20:07
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Two questions for folks.. 1) I have a 2005 Pilot that has a 10" sub integrated into the car. I've been trying to find out other subs to put in to replace it because I want a bit more oomph..is it worth it or can I just bridge my amp to it? (Amp is a 400w 4 channel Rockford R400-4D) 2) I installed some new speakers in the car and have 12 gauge wire (wowowow) so it was a bit tricky to crimp onto the speaker terminal leads. What kind of speaker terminal leads can I buy to replace them? It looks like they were made for 18+ gauge so it was a bit loosey goosey. Also, wtf are they called? I see tons of different names for them and can't figure out what exactly to buy.. Speakers are Morel Maximo 5s if that makes a difference.
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Oct 16, 2017 21:24
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Bank posted:Two questions for folks.. 12AWG is much bigger than 18AWG, if I'm understanding you correctly. If your wire is too small for your terminals, and you don't want to bother getting new terminals, you can strip back double what you need and fold the wire over on itself to double its thickness where it goes into the crimp connector. Don't most speakers use screw down terminals that take fork terminals? If they are the other kind, I've seen them called pin connectors or ferrules.
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Oct 17, 2017 05:27
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If they're the terminals on the speaker itself (and not on an enclosure), those are usually spade connectors. Often one will be a little smaller than the other.
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Oct 17, 2017 06:04
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Looking for some troubleshooting help. I recently replaced all 4 door speakers in my Landcruiser, and realized the rear passenger isn’t playing any sound. I’ve swapped speakers to ensure the speaker is good, and used a circuit light when the power is on and the bulb lit up. Is the next step to dig behind the head unit? I’m stumped at why the speaker wouldn’t work if it’s getting power from the positive terminal.
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Oct 17, 2017 17:58
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savesthedayrocks posted:Looking for some troubleshooting help. I recently replaced all 4 door speakers in my Landcruiser, and realized the rear passenger isn’t playing any sound. I’ve swapped speakers to ensure the speaker is good, and used a circuit light when the power is on and the bulb lit up. Did you check your balance/fade controls?
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Oct 17, 2017 18:40
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Yeah, first thing I checked. Everything goes silent when I get to the corner.
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Oct 18, 2017 02:01
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Maybe the speaker is doa?
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Oct 18, 2017 02:51
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The OP posted:I’ve swapped speakers to ensure the speaker is good I'm guessing not. I suppose it's entirely possible that you could be showing base continuity but not be getting signal. In theory you should see fluctuation in the output when measuring at the speaker terminal while music is playing, have you tested that and compared it to one of the functioning connections to verify it's actually showing a signal?
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Oct 18, 2017 03:40
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Pull the head unit, check the signal (with a known working driver) at the back of the head unit. If that's working then you get the awesome task of figuring out where your wiring is hosed. Thing is though it seems unlikely that the speaker wire would be damaged without the rest of the loom in that particular area being damaged, so you should definitely investigate, lest you have a short.
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Oct 18, 2017 08:38
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MikeyTsi posted:I'm guessing not. This is a little over my head. The only thing I have tested with is just the light that powers on. Would a multimeter be what I’m looking for here? So test both non working and working speaker, and the output on the multimeter would show the same values? Don Dongington posted:Pull the head unit, check the signal (with a known working driver) at the back of the head unit. If that's working then you get the awesome task of figuring out where your wiring is hosed. Yeah, pulling the headunit was next on my list, but wanted to go least invasive first. If there was a short somewhere, would it make a buzzing sound or no sound at all? savesthedayrocks fucked around with this message at 11:02 on Oct 18, 2017 |
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Oct 18, 2017 11:00
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Important question: Did the speaker that you replaced work? If so, you can limit the scope to something that you did when replacing it. A short could result in no sound or a buzzing sound. Neither would be indicative to me.
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Oct 18, 2017 18:03
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savesthedayrocks posted:This is a little over my head. The only thing I have tested with is just the light that powers on. Would a multimeter be what I’m looking for here? So test both non working and working speaker, and the output on the multimeter would show the same values? With a multi-meter you'd probe the actual wire that would connect to the speaker. First you'd probe a known functioning line and see the output fluctuation, then probe the non-working one to see if it's got the same responses. Basically, you're going to need to start at an end and work your way to the other side to find where the problem is. Another question is, does this have an amplifier internal to the head unit, or is there a separate amp somewhere in the car? Breaking this down in to testable segments is going to be really important. Another thing you could do is run a temporary patch to bypass the existing wiring and plug directly in to the speaker and see if you get output then. That would make an issue with the wiring a certainty and then you could just run a parallel set of wiring and forget about it.
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Oct 18, 2017 19:25
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Krakkles posted:Important question: Did the speaker that you replaced work? I wish I had a better answer, but I didn't check them individually. Most were blown, so I just replaced all 4 at once. MikeyTsi posted:With a multi-meter you'd probe the actual wire that would connect to the speaker. First you'd probe a known functioning line and see the output fluctuation, then probe the non-working one to see if it's got the same responses. Thanks for the tip on the multi-meter. I'll have to mess with that tomorrow and see what I can find. I'm finding conflicting info on the amp, but there are about 4 other speakers and a sub that make zero sound too. If I don't get anywhere with the multi-meter I guess I'll have to rip out the head unit and check the wiring. savesthedayrocks fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Oct 18, 2017 |
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Oct 18, 2017 21:18
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As always you guys were right about behind the dash. I ripped it apart today and the negative wire had popped out of the connector. Buttoned everything up and it works perfect. Morale of the story: don’t try and get cute when the answer is pretty obvious.
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Oct 22, 2017 22:29
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I recently tapped into my rear speakers to add a subwoofer to my 2016 GTI, the variant without the Fender audio system. When I started reading this thread a month ago I saw mention that doing this exact thing would ultimately leave me unsatisfied, like 100 pages ago, but there was no supporting verbiage and I was already doing the purchasing thing. I'd been 10 years without a sub and wanted one. I got a JL 12W1V3, a 1.5 cubic foot sealed box from Crutchfield which is suitable for the speaker and I'm using an old amplifier I bought in 2001 and then connected to an 8ohm sub/never asked to do any work, a Sony XM-3001SXD. BTW, this amp was kind of driving my purchasing decisions as I needed a sub capable of handling what the amp could throw out and I didn't want to need to replace the amp becuase other than being Class D and 15+ years old it works fine. The radio has bass, mid and highs adjustments on its three-band EQ, and I've got the amplifier's low-pass filter set to about 150Hz (by eye) and the 40Hz boost all the way down. Other than level on the amp and of course the volume knob I have no other adjustments. The sub is amazingly loud and all but it seems to roll in a little as the volume is increased. This isn't so bad for normal music or normally bassy music, but 808s and similar fat, round sounds are so loud it's a bit shocking when they come on if the mids and highs are close to loud listening volume. I think if I just had a line level converter with a bass knob or if the stereo had a sub level asjustment that might be sufficient, or maybe the L2CI with its bass reclamation algorithms, and I really do need to tweak it a little still outside of these minor complaints, but does anyone have anything they could offer me as far as advice to have my factory radio while also eating aftermarket thunderbass cake?
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Oct 26, 2017 19:46
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Does anyone have a head unit recommendation that meets the following criteria?: - Color matches a 1999 Grand Voyager's dashboard (or color changes) - Has the ability to dim when you turn on the headlights - Bluetooth - No more than $100 (preferably $80 or under) - Not Kenwood I know what I'd want if I were buying from the JVC or Pioneer product lines, but I'm curious what else is out there that I might be overlooking.
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Oct 26, 2017 20:07
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Oddhair posted:I think if I just had a line level converter with a bass knob or if the stereo had a sub level asjustment that might be sufficient, or maybe the L2CI with its bass reclamation algorithms, and I really do need to tweak it a little still outside of these minor complaints, but does anyone have anything they could offer me as far as advice to have my factory radio while also eating aftermarket thunderbass cake? The issue with tapping the rear speakers off a stock deck is always that manufacturers build in a high pass filter to stop you from blowing the rears listening to Lil' Jon at half volume. It sounds like you're not getting hit too badly by this, so it sounds like it's not a particularly savage roll off. If you're just after a sub level control, I think some sort of LLC or signal processor with a remote level control that you can double sided tape under the dash/next to your console sounds like the ticket. I've read some good reviews about the Boss US BX series crossovers. Normally I wouldn't touch that brand, but for $30~$50 you get a full 3-way active crossover setup, a pretty tidy sub level/bass boost remote, and some bass tuning capability. That would probably let you dial in some missing low end if you went for the higher end one. You would also have to stick an LOC in front of it if you're currently using the speaker level inputs on your amp. I don't think those have the bass reclamation engine stuff, and having a separate LOC is a pain, so the L2Ci with the optional remote is probably your best option - you just seemed to be looking for alternatives so I just thought I'd throw that out there. RIP Paul Walker posted:Does anyone have a head unit recommendation that meets the following criteria?: Try get an Alpine on sale or second hand. Super happy with my W265EBT RGB double din thing. They make a single din version that's pretty similar.
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Oct 27, 2017 01:03
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I have a Pioneer in my WJ, it wasn't too hard to tweak the RGB to be close enough to Mopar bluegreen lighting.
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Oct 27, 2017 04:24
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IOwnCalculus posted:I have a Pioneer in my WJ, it wasn't too hard to tweak the RGB to be close enough to Mopar bluegreen lighting. Same, except with Saturn orange lighting. Not a perfect match, but close enough that it's not distracting. Most not-bottom-of-the-line Pioneers have adjustable colors. Mine lets you change the color and brightness between lights being on or off. With them off, brightness is way up and it's white. With them on, it dims way down and (somewhat) matches the rest of the dash lighting. * One thing to note, the low end Pioneer head units DO NOT have a dimmer wire, or at least they didn't when I had my DEH6400BT (~2012 model I think, maybe 2011). The DEH-X8600BH I have now definitely does have a dimmer wire. Alpine also makes good stuff. Might check out Clarion, but I think they've mostly moved into marine audio. JVC used to be decent too, but I haven't used Alpine since 2012, and the other 2 since the late 2000s. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:44 on Oct 27, 2017 |
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Oct 27, 2017 07:41
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