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I'd be really wary of those multicarts after reading that article posted earlier about how they run 3.3V flash on 5V systems with no regulation at all, unless you have a "burner" MVS just for that stuff. I know the previous owner of my MV-1C used it heavily and exclusively with a multicart and it's flaky as hell now (I only have legit carts) e: whoops apparently some of the multicarts do have a regulator and if that's the case it's probably not the worst thing in the world. I'd check if yours has one and mod it in if it doesn't d0s fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Oct 19, 2017 |
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Oct 19, 2017 01:47
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Hi I need six pounds of joystick
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Oct 19, 2017 02:59
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Regular Nintendo posted:Hi I need six pounds of joystick I actually saw these irl in game shops when I was in Japan, they're not that big or heavy, just kind of oddly shaped. People like them because they have decent microwitched sticks but the buttons have a bad layout for Street Fighter games, it's good for shooters. I also forgot to mention this SNES stick, the ASCII fighter stick special:  Seems to have a pretty good layout and ASCII used great sticks in that era. I actually like the sticks in something like the ASCII Stick II Turbo better then the Micomsoft XE-1 series
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Oct 19, 2017 03:13
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d0s posted:Thats less of an issue than it seems like, unless you really like that one port of Street Fighter II' It's considered to be very good. Like, surprisingly good for the platform.
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Oct 19, 2017 22:52
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 edit dishwasherlove posted:Just got my shipping email now. 
Sir Tonk fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Oct 20, 2017 |
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Oct 20, 2017 00:07
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Ok, got my blinking light win mod and holy crap it's awesome. No more fiddling with carts!
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Oct 20, 2017 00:15
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BigRed0427 posted:Ok, got my blinking light win mod and holy crap it's awesome. No more fiddling with carts! Nice!
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Oct 20, 2017 00:20
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSCb2kanjLI
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Oct 20, 2017 00:38
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I bought an el-cheapo ($5 i think?) 72 pin connector and snipped the leg off the 10NES chip like a decade ago and my NES still boots every cart every time. Sometimes they're a little tough to pull out but other than that it's been flawless. Perhaps I was just very lucky?
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Oct 20, 2017 00:43
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Oh cool. I was in this Panel! 
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Oct 20, 2017 01:20
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Am I alone in thinking that the joystick Nintendo used on their old arcade games was basically perfect? It's super short, clicky, and fits perfectly between your thumb and index/middle fingers. Did any other companies ever use a stick like this?
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Oct 20, 2017 01:53
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moller posted:I bought an el-cheapo ($5 i think?) 72 pin connector and snipped the leg off the 10NES chip like a decade ago and my NES still boots every cart every time. Sometimes they're a little tough to pull out but other than that it's been flawless. Perhaps I was just very lucky? I don’t know why anyone would overpay for the blinking light win, since the $5-$10 72 pin connectors on eBay do a fine job. You don’t have to push the cart down on them either, but you can if you still want. I don’t like disabling the lockout chip. If it would’ve blinked, you’re basically cart tilting and might experience glitches that could be obvious or subtle. It’s only useful if you want to recreate the experience of owning a Famicom on your NES.
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Oct 20, 2017 02:11
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Just finished watching this right before you posted it, haha. I was too busy at my booth to catch any panels.  We did a little video on our time at the convention if anyone wants to take a look. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EbmUF9CQIig
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Oct 20, 2017 02:27
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All New Sonic posted:Am I alone in thinking that the joystick Nintendo used on their old arcade games was basically perfect? looks like the sticks on korean candy cabs. tekken people love them & there are modern conseole/pc sticks with those built in I think, probably by some korean brands?
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Oct 20, 2017 03:03
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I'm almost buying a Japanese Mega Drive for like 30 dollars. I was checking its photos and can anyone tell me if that's a loving roach inside the thing? Would it be reasonable to buy it anyway for that price?
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Oct 20, 2017 04:04
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Kazvall posted:Just finished watching this right before you posted it, haha. I was too busy at my booth to catch any panels. cool
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Oct 20, 2017 04:07
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Negrostrike posted:I'm almost buying a Japanese Mega Drive for like 30 dollars. I was checking its photos and can anyone tell me if that's a loving roach inside the thing? Would it be reasonable to buy it anyway for that price? who cares about the roach, i'm more worried that it's a model two.
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Oct 20, 2017 04:11
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$30 for a Japanese MD model 1 is an ok price I guess since you can get US ones for like $25-40. I don't think it's a roach, but I can't say for sure. I just realized it looks weird also because it doesn't have an RF shield on the bottom like the US model does. Karasu Tengu fucked around with this message at 04:56 on Oct 20, 2017 |
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Oct 20, 2017 04:16
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its なっとう
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Oct 20, 2017 04:50
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jesus christ
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Oct 20, 2017 05:15
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d0s posted:its なっとう
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Oct 20, 2017 05:46
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All New Sonic posted:Am I alone in thinking that the joystick Nintendo used on their old arcade games was basically perfect? These were all metal, right? I know a lot of people praise all metal arcade joysticks. I played a Frogger arcade machine and the joystick basically had no stick. REALLY good for making VERY quick movement in that game.
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Oct 20, 2017 06:21
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mrw listening to british people talk about anything SEGA related
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Oct 20, 2017 12:20
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Cindy Shitbird posted:mrw listening to british people talk about anything SEGA related haha I was about to post "idgi" but then I got it e: Mace Bacon posted:I played a Frogger arcade machine and the joystick basically had no stick. Seimitsu LS-56 is very short (if you mount it using the plate designed for it) and probably the clickiest modern JP style stick you can get, I use one in my PC/360 stick, it's great d0s fucked around with this message at 14:32 on Oct 20, 2017 |
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Oct 20, 2017 14:28
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Friends. Instead of buying the blinking light win, just clean your existing connector, bend the pins back out if need be, and don’t push the carts down when you put them in the console. Don’t even boil the connector, get some super fine sandpaper (>1000 grit), fold a piece in half so it’s sandpaper on both sides, push it in and out of the connector a few times, that’s all it needs. That’s it, that’s the key to a reliable nes from now until the heat death of the universe.
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Oct 20, 2017 15:07
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I hate knuckleduster sticks and I don't get how people can use them  I actually really like bat tops for directional inputs in stuff like Tekken.
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Oct 20, 2017 15:24
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I did all that and my frontloader NES still doesn't work very reliably because of the extreme variances in NES PCB thickness and the general shittyness of the cart connector design. Like, I've never gotten my copy of Zelda 2 or Startropics to reliably boot in my frontloader, and they're iffy in the toploader. Both of these games have this paper thin PCBs, while Tetris and SMB work fine and have a normal thickness board. Karasu Tengu fucked around with this message at 15:32 on Oct 20, 2017 |
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Oct 20, 2017 15:26
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Caitlin posted:I hate knuckleduster sticks and I don't get how people can use them when I say the LS-56 is short, I mean compared to a JLF or LS-32 or something, it's not something like those frogger sticks:  Re Tekken, those Korean candy cabs/sticks I mentioned actually normally have bat tops:  Though you can get the same style in a balltop too, I think most people like the bats. I find all of this abhorrent
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Oct 20, 2017 16:42
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The main reason I got a BLW was because I was tired of bending the pins back every couple of months. If you change out NES carts as often as I do, you end up needing to do it more often. I guess if you only use one flashcart for everything it's fine. You still have to clean the pins regularly but the whole process is faster. Time is money, friend.
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Oct 20, 2017 17:02
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d0s posted:when I say the LS-56 is short, I mean compared to a JLF or LS-32 or something, it's not something like those frogger sticks: Me and Koreans like bat tops for Tekken because it gives you directional inputs that feel very clean. SF-like controller motions aren't as easy on them. I tend to prefer ball top for 2D fighting games and bat top for 3D - I find ones that aren't clicky-ish bat tops to be too... I dunno, floppy? Fluid? The snapback on the bat top feels better too. But oh ok I'm glad it isn't like the Frogger/Joust kind of bullshitty sticks because god they're awful and I hate them 
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Oct 20, 2017 17:04
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Mercury Crusader posted:The main reason I got a BLW was because I was tired of bending the pins back every couple of months. If you change out NES carts as often as I do, you end up needing to do it more often. I guess if you only use one flashcart for everything it's fine. I got a BLW and it's mostly fine but pulling carts out is insanely annoying (and mine is from the supposedly looser second batch), I know it's like that for a good connection but goddamn
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Oct 20, 2017 17:17
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d0s posted:I got a BLW and it's mostly fine but pulling carts out is insanely annoying (and mine is from the supposedly looser second batch), I know it's like that for a good connection but goddamn That's what pliers are for
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Oct 20, 2017 18:34
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d0s posted:I got a BLW and it's mostly fine but pulling carts out is insanely annoying (and mine is from the supposedly looser second batch), I know it's like that for a good connection but goddamn I figure they'd get a little looser as carts change overtime, but I've had mine for a little over a year and it still puts a death grip on carts. At this point I just accept it as the cost of not having to repeatedly readjust the cart to get a solid connection/re-bend pins every couple months.
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Oct 20, 2017 18:40
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I've found that as long as I don't jam the cart in all the way (basically intentionally stop pushing it in only slightly after it hits resistance), I get both a great connection and an easier cartridge to remove.
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Oct 20, 2017 18:51
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Mercury Crusader posted:At this point I just accept it as the cost of not having to repeatedly readjust the cart to get a solid connection/re-bend pins every couple months. for real, it's worth the minor hassle to have a perfectly working NES
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Oct 20, 2017 19:05
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Alucardd posted:Yeah I use a 161-in-1 more or less fine on my MV-1B with unibios 3.2. Anyone have a source for 3.3, or do you have to actually send a chip to some guy in the UK to do it?
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Oct 20, 2017 21:25
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So I bought a copy of Pro Wrestling for the NES from a pawn shop today after work. I just cleaned it and...oh Honey. What did they do to you?
BigRed0427 fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Oct 20, 2017 |
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Oct 20, 2017 23:49
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thats nothing compared to like every MVS cart ever. they are absolute filth magnets and become coated in the weirdest grime, I'm thinking arcade owners with no clue just sprayed all kinds of poo poo in there to "clean" them, which resulted in the same kind of situation like blowing in NES carts did where you're just making it worse e: they always take forever to clean too due to the size and the fact that there are 4 surfaces to clean 
d0s fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Oct 21, 2017 |
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Oct 20, 2017 23:59
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An old friend of mine once sprayed Windex directly into his NES's cart slot in an attempt to clean it.  I ended up trading him for one of my working ones (I had like six of them), hoping I could either fix it or use it for parts. I took one look at the giant blob of blue crust and corrosion the Windex left on the motherboard's edge connector and wanted to cry. Rest in peace, brave little toaster.
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Oct 21, 2017 00:56
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BigRed0427 posted:So I bought a copy of Pro Wrestling for the NES from a pawn shop today after work. I just cleaned it and...oh Honey. What did they do to you?
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Oct 21, 2017 04:20
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