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I think I figured out my spray gun. I had the fan too low because if wound out right it was spraying like poo poo due to the pressure being too high. I had a reg right at the gun and was going by the numbers, but cheap gauge so who knows how accurate it is? I just went by testing and experimentation and eventually got somewhere by reducing pressure and opening up the fan. But too late as I've run out of paint. Also it went on poo poo on flat surfaces (roof, and fender and guard which were off the car and laid on crates), the gun was sporadically firing when pointing down so there's a tiger strip appearance. The corner repair which was upright/perpendicular obviously came out the best Honestly, I could have done a better job with aerosol spray cans... Right now I'm considering that, ie bolting the fender and door back on and getting a aerosol can and giving it a coat #8. I'm supposed to put clear coat immediately over the top right now, but I don't want to clear coat this shoddy job - it's either sanding back with 1500 grit and clear coating, or getting spray cans to finish the job. I've read you're not supposed to rub back with metallics and then clear coat but it's my only choice now. If that comes up bad I'm going to buy some spray cans, try again and put clear on straight away like I was supposed to. E: good news is soo many coats and the colour is getting a closer match Mon edit: just chucked on some clear, looks alright from a distance. I can't really stop the orange peel effect with the clear and my gun though. I might try dilute the paint more? Already got two runs though.  Another fuken tarp knob fell off after I'd already added colour base  I wish I smacked the panel a bit more. 3 or so high spots I missed. I should have used a guide coat. dent city:  But anyway, that just needed to be fixed a bit for re-licencing. Like I said before if I really cared I'd buy a BA tub/well body. The main reason I parked the ute was the depressing rusting on the roof due to severe peeling paint, and peeling paint on the fender and door, and they have been repainted (badly) too. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 10:01 on Oct 23, 2017 |
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Oct 21, 2017 11:10
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I'm moving to Vegas in like six weeks so I've got a fire lit under my rear end to finally put parts on my car and do all the maintenance I've been neglecting.  Came in on my day off yesterday and slapped some free fog lights I pulled off a trade in on my car. And also finally reinstalled the interior behind front seats I pulled months ago for basically no reason. eighty-four merc fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Oct 23, 2017 |
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Oct 23, 2017 18:24
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Raluek posted:What's this about anti-seize? Hasn't totalnewbie said several times now that you should only use it on unplated black plugs, and anti-seize on nickel (or whatever) plated shiny plugs is a no-no? gently caress that. Steel things in aluminum things get all the anti-seize, plated or no. I've experienced NOT doing that on one of my RX-7s, and it was nerve wracking. Felt like I was stripping the threads all the way out. Fortunately, did not, just galled enough to make it difficult. In other news: traded the '90 RX-7 for this thing:  (departing RX-7 in background. I will miss it, but it will actually get driven now. And I have a new thing to fix.)   Expect many updated on what I did, because there's a lot to do. Mainly small stuff after I get a new bearing on the right rear axle. The car is basically sound.
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Oct 23, 2017 19:02
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Holy cow, what's in the trunk? Bricks?
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Oct 23, 2017 19:07
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Do you only have 2 of the Mk2 Supra wheels?
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Oct 23, 2017 19:14
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Please keep the Mt Akina plate surround.
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Oct 23, 2017 19:17
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Goddamn that Corolla looks beat to death.
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Oct 23, 2017 19:22
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:Goddamn that Corolla looks beat to death. They all are, they weren't made much better than their 1970s platform mates and drifting got here comparatively late (and touring car racing with them wasn't well known) so there was little desire for them other than Japanese expats and cheap beaters. There's a GTS coupe around here that a teen kid picked up to deliver....pizza. Every time I see it, there's a new dented panel. 
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Oct 23, 2017 21:06
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He needs to learn to roll the soda in the cup so he doesn't damage the pizza while on deliveries.
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Oct 23, 2017 21:15
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BlackMK4 posted:Please keep the Mt Akina plate surround. I didn't spot that, it needs to stay. 
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Oct 23, 2017 22:59
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Dagen H posted:Holy cow, what's in the trunk? Bricks? Flat tire on the left, and 3 wheels and tires in the trunk. And possibly saggy springs. Took me a combo of 3 jacks to get the rear up so I could change the left tire and pull the axle on the right. Olympic Mathlete posted:Do you only have 2 of the Mk2 Supra wheels? Other two are in the trunk, with bald tires. BlackMK4 posted:Please keep the Mt Akina plate surround. Olympic Mathlete posted:I didn't spot that, it needs to stay. It will. I like it. I actually already have a matching sticker I bought years ago. Garage2Roadtrip posted:Goddamn that Corolla looks beat to death. DJ Commie posted:They all are, they weren't made much better than their 1970s platform mates and drifting got here comparatively late (and touring car racing with them wasn't well known) so there was little desire for them other than Japanese expats and cheap beaters. There's a GTS coupe around here that a teen kid picked up to deliver....pizza. Every time I see it, there's a new dented panel. It's no worse than the FC RX-7 it replaced, if I'm honest. The spray can paint job makes it look rattier than it is. It's mostly straight. Someone dropped the hood on its rear points, though, which annoys me. Thread over here BTW.
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Oct 24, 2017 00:00
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Darchangel posted:gently caress that. Steel things in aluminum things get all the anti-seize, plated or no. I've experienced NOT doing that on one of my RX-7s, and it was nerve wracking. Felt like I was stripping the threads all the way out. Fortunately, did not, just galled enough to make it difficult. Most of my poo poo has iron heads, so I'm just passing along what the pro says  BlackMK4 posted:Reminds me, I was trying to remove stubborn tie rod end jam nuts the other day so I put some antiseize on the threads to try and get the nut moving more smoothly, then ended up heating it all with a torch. I think I basically brazed the loving nut on. I hope you weren't trying to tighten the left-hand thread side of the tie rod adjuster 
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Oct 24, 2017 07:08
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The rod end was already off 
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Oct 24, 2017 17:20
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More like what did my ride to do me? It bit me, twice.  All to replace this center vent, turns out you have to pull the whole dash out to get to a couple of screws that hold it to the gray dash plastic, right behind that center bar between the vents. The old one I replaced was so brittle that it shattered under very slight pressure, and cut into my hand simply because it would give and I'd slip and tear my flesh. This job was harder than the fuel tank, or doing all the brakes, or the oil pan. Easily. 
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Oct 24, 2017 17:46
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Fo3 posted:My BMW e34 doesn't have a bulb in the check engine icon, only the US market cars got them that early (1990). Apparently if I fitted a bulb it would just flash all the time for no reason unless I did some electrickery with diodes/resisters or whatever. They don't have a check engine light It's integrated into the service/inspection indicator as well as the check control. The only exception being diesels with eml "elektronische motorlast Regelung" which means electronic power control. Because all e34s share the same indicator cluster just in different states of population, you can also find an EML and traction control light on yours even if you don't have them. The only thing that came later was airbag indicators (my 91 525I 24V doesn't have airbags and I have not found an indicator light either) Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Oct 24, 2017 |
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Oct 24, 2017 18:44
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Also tire season is starting here and I'll have to go through about 8 cars in the next couple weeks to change them. Here's how I do tire changes actually because I get super pissed about corroded hubs and stuck on wheels. 1. Remove wheel (first time on this car involves a lot of swearing and cursing about the former owner and mechanics) 2. Blow out dust and loose dirt from the wheel well and clean everything after removing loose dirt. 3. Apply shiny plastic protectant and rubber care to all plastic and rubber surfaces and hoses inside 4. Reapply conservation wax to metal seams 5. With one of the abrasive pucks and wire brushes (I only use both in air die grinders), remove all traces of rust from the hub 6. Remove transfer corrosion from the wheel with abrasive puck (after thoroughly cleaning the wheel from all sides) 7. Clean the wheel bolts if they are rusty with a wire brush 8. Apply ceramic anti seaze or copper paste thinly onto the contact surfaces. (don't do this if you don't know the meaning of "thinly" you don't want to clean the inside of your wheel barrel from technical anti seaze.) 9. Reassemble and torque. Takes about an hour for a full set of wheels and hubs. But if you ever had to change s tire on a highway with on board tools you will know why this is worth it. Also it is satisfying to remove a wheel and the hub looks absolutely perfect and it comes off without resistance Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Oct 24, 2017 |
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Oct 24, 2017 19:00
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Got my Caprice dyno'd and professionally tuned by an LSx specialist. I've been playing around with the tune for a bit but I just want to enjoy the car while knowing I'm getting the most out of the parts. 2013 Caprice L77/6L80E removed and replaced with LS3/TR6060 TSP 'Stage 1' cam 225/236 .629"/.615" 113LSA JBA longtube headers into Magnaflow dual 2.5" header back exhaust VCM OTR intake  Was very impressed with the numbers. Was honestly expecting around 420-430whp. Picked up close to 30hp between the baseline run and the final run. Throttle response and driveability is much improved as well as the extra power. Probably going to bring them the Datsun at some point and let them tune that as well.
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Oct 24, 2017 19:15
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Combat Theory posted:Also tire season is starting here and I'll have to go through about 8 cars in the next couple weeks to change them. I use a simpler method: don’t live where that poo poo happens or is necessary. Jesus Christ I would kill something if I had to deal with the rust, and the tire change, and the.... I will put up with melting to death in the summer over that.
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Oct 24, 2017 20:42
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2011 Golf, rear trailing arm. 2016 Toyota Urban Cruiser (basically a Scion xD), at the time the picture was taken it was brand new, as in zero km on the odo.  Darchangel, this is why Scandinavians drink so much.
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Oct 24, 2017 20:54
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Installed an OBX cat-back Exhaust on the FXT today. Still needs a couple little things done like extra long kartboy hangers, because the exhaust is riding way too high and it is touching the driver side axle and almost touching the bumper. I also had some issues with a rusty flange at the downpipe/midpipe junction. It’s sort of redneck engineered together until I order a downpipe. The exhaust sounds more mellow than I was expecting but I’m sure with the downpipe it will be a bit louder. The quality looks pretty decent. Nice welds, good fit (the hanger thing is basically any aftermarket exhaust on these cars). http://youtu.be/jIJbEWBh_6g    
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Oct 25, 2017 01:54
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Epic license plate And I agree those welds are nice. If I wasn't making exhausts myself I would consider buying at that quality if the price is right and the fitting is as good as you say E: give the exhaust a bit of highway time before judging if it's actually too mellow. Depending on the packing you can gain quite a few dB within the first couple heat cycles Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Oct 25, 2017 |
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Oct 25, 2017 03:52
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FuzzKill posted:Got my Caprice dyno'd and professionally tuned by an LSx specialist. ... Probably going to bring them the Datsun at some point and let them tune that as well. This is pretty cool. What does a tune entail exactly?
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Oct 25, 2017 03:54
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Nidhg00670000 posted:2011 Golf, rear trailing arm.  at that rusted Toyota. That's what happens if you bulk ecoat without setting it up for castings then machine afterwards. The sharp edges don't cover, high points rub as they rattle around during transport to machining, the big bare spot is machined away to make the bolt holes without recoating, and the rest is tiny bare spots because of porosity in the casting. The good news is that it's cosmetic and not required for proper functioning just like coatings on brake calipers.I have a pile of cast control arms and knuckles laying on my desk at the moment so seeing the lovely jobs other people are doing warms my cold heart. I also have a couple areas of premature rust on one of my cars that I'm going to warranty just because I know it'll go back to an OEM coating 'expert' that I don't get along with because they're an idiot. edit: also don't look inside that VW arm if you think the outside is bad
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Oct 25, 2017 18:51
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eriddy posted:This is pretty cool. What does a tune entail exactly? Adjusting and optimizing airflow, spark, and fuel tables/maps in the computer to compensate for the modifications made to the engine. Also because generally the factory calibration leaves a bit on the table. Not sure how in depth you were asking, but basically they monitor the engine running/driving and then do some WOT pulls on the dyno, look at the feedback, and then make more changes until the best output is achieved.
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Oct 26, 2017 00:57
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Pulled it out of the driveway and hooked up to the laptop to pull some data as I drove around the block, the connection fell apart about 1/4 of the way around, the motor was bucking, wouldn’t take more than 15% throttle without falling on its face, I idled about a quarter of the distance in first when it wouldn’t take any throttle at all without trying to die, and eventually made it home. So I got almost no data and raised blood pressure. I just emailed a guru to see if I can buy a base tune so I can at least drive it long enough to get good data to curve.
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Oct 26, 2017 02:07
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Replaced the new power steering pump that ejected the pressure sensor and all the fluid with the one that came on my JDM motor. Subaru makes the accessories easy-ish to get at on top the motor but they give you gently caress all room between them and the radiator fans. Anyway, new-old-JDM pump is way quieter than the new-new aftermarket pump. Now I just need the quart of oil that sprayed all over the motor to stop smoking...
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Oct 26, 2017 02:08
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Boys who love boys
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Darchangel posted:gently caress that. Steel things in aluminum things get all the anti-seize, plated or no. I've experienced NOT doing that on one of my RX-7s, and it was nerve wracking. Felt like I was stripping the threads all the way out. Fortunately, did not, just galled enough to make it difficult. Aluminum head with OEM plugs here, and in most of the cars i've owned. The worst I've had to do was tap the wrench with a hammer to break the plug loose (and those plugs probably had 200k+ on them). They popped right out of the Saturn like they were installed yesterday when I changed the originals around 90k, and I'm about to change them again (at 190k). Pretty sure they'll pop out easily again. I refused to touch the ones on stepdad's F-150 though. I've heard too many horror stories about them snapping off in the Tritons.
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Oct 26, 2017 07:21
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The 3 valve trucks with the 3 piece plugs are specifically the ones that snap and have to be extracted. A few brands make replacement 1 piece plugs though. Just as fun are the 2 valve trucks that have like 6 threads total that yank the threads out if you overtighten them at all. Or you tighten them properly and the sparkplug self ejects itself out the hole and possibly the hood, taking the threads with it. Mod motor plugs and ignition coils can eat poo poo and die.
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Oct 26, 2017 07:29
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His is a 5.4 2V, but even without those issues, the rear plugs get soaked by water running off of the cowl. I didn't want the risk of loving anything up myself. That engine's kind of a pain to work on anyway.
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Oct 26, 2017 08:32
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Encountered my first PO fuckery on the Crown VIc when I pulled the factory stereo out of my console. One of the screw tabs holding the faceplate to the main head unit, and rather than fix it properly he basically clamped it down and hot snotted it into place. There were gobs of hot glue all over the main PCB in the gap between the faceplate and head, and once I inadvertently pulled them apart, the glue acted like a spring, preventing the pins from making full contact when I tried to push them back together. I'll probably fabricate a new tab out of JB weld or something. About half the original screw hole is still intact, so I'll have something to build around, then I can just drill out and countersink the JB once it sets. I'm replacing this with an aftermarket stereo, this is all basically so I can maybe flip it on Craigslist for a few bucks.
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Oct 26, 2017 22:19
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I had a fairly productive day today! Swapped out the alternator in my 85 d100 for one that wasn't chooched and replaced the V belts before they snap when it gets to -40. Ended up running a new ground to the (new) voltage regulator as recommended on some dodge forums, then I used dielectric grease on every connection plus the battery too because why not. The results were pretty much immediate. Everything ran so much smoother, no more hunting around for idle for the first 45 or so seconds and the high idle afterwards went away too. Headlights brighter, no flickering and a super healthy battery voltage reading. The power steering belt doesn't slip anymore either so there's no horrible squealing noise when I turn *and* it doesn't feel like a boat quite as much anymore. While I was at it I used a bungee cord to hold the fuse box under the dash instead of having it just jammed in there. Still trying to think up a more permanent solution. If the weather isn't so lovely next weekend I might finally try and hook up the fuel pump switch I've been meaning to hook up so that I don't have to turn it on/off 15 times to prime the fuel lines.
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Oct 28, 2017 19:08
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Finally got my stuff from Kenwood, and the stereo is mounted in the Crown Vic. All these months I thought the stock speakers were either blown, or just that crappy compared to the system in the MSP. Turns out no, the speakers sound fine, i just get crap FM reception, through either the Ford stereo or this one; currently playing some Pink Floyd over Bluetooth and it sounds excellent. Are auxiliary FM antennas a thing? Doubt I'd ever buy one, but just wondering. The built in one in the rear glass just barely does the job; it constantly cuts out inside parking garages, while the MSP's never even faded slightly in the same garages(it also had a windshield antenna).
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Oct 28, 2017 23:44
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Enourmo posted:Finally got my stuff from Kenwood, and the stereo is mounted in the Crown Vic. All these months I thought the stock speakers were either blown, or just that crappy compared to the system in the MSP. Turns out no, the speakers sound fine, i just get crap FM reception, through either the Ford stereo or this one; currently playing some Pink Floyd over Bluetooth and it sounds excellent. I don't know about the ford specifically, but some cars with window antennas have an antenna amplifier. If you install an aftermarket deck you might have to hook it up to the blue/white signal wire, or the antenna amp might be blown. Or it might just be that window antennas suck in general.... I guess it's also possible the wire from the antenna is broken where it leaves the glass.
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Oct 28, 2017 23:56
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Well, reception was equally bad with either head unit, so it's not an issue specific to aftermarket stuff.
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Oct 28, 2017 23:58
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I've seen aftermarket antennas but I'm not sure how you'd rig one up so that it looks nice if you don't have a factory mount.
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Oct 29, 2017 00:21
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Enourmo posted:Finally got my stuff from Kenwood, and the stereo is mounted in the Crown Vic. All these months I thought the stock speakers were either blown, or just that crappy compared to the system in the MSP. Turns out no, the speakers sound fine, i just get crap FM reception, through either the Ford stereo or this one; currently playing some Pink Floyd over Bluetooth and it sounds excellent. Universal antennas are definitely a thing, just put on on the International. You will have to drill a hole. Mounts on a rubber gasket and angle is adjustable so it can point straight up. I got mine from autozone so while the reception is good I doubt It’s heirloom quality, but I’d bet there are nice ones out there.
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Oct 29, 2017 03:37
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Enourmo posted:Finally got my stuff from Kenwood, and the stereo is mounted in the Crown Vic. All these months I thought the stock speakers were either blown, or just that crappy compared to the system in the MSP. Turns out no, the speakers sound fine, i just get crap FM reception, through either the Ford stereo or this one; currently playing some Pink Floyd over Bluetooth and it sounds excellent. https://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i519_universal-antennas.html An antenna is an antenna. If you want to add a second one to improve reception, all you need is a y adapter (cheap) and another antenna. Your head unit doesn't know or care if you have 15 antenna. EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 12:36 on Oct 29, 2017 |
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Oct 29, 2017 12:25
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Pulled out the brake servo and sent it to the US to have it rebuilt. 800 euros for a new one! Also, it looks like I'm buying a new clutch master cylinder, luckily they're only about $90. 
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Oct 29, 2017 16:16
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  My friends and I did a group mad max costume. I don't have pictures of the whole crew(they're all on other people's phones), but I figured some decoration was in order. Side note, driving around with a bunch of warboys in the back of your truck is really loving fun.
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Oct 29, 2017 22:52
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  Won't get around to installing til next weekend but went down to Denver u pull and pay and grabbed a third member with 3.67 gears (mine has 3.07s in it now) then went over to Aurora and grabbed taller, stiffer rear springs out of a bigger boat of a Merc that will hopefully make mine stop sagging rear end now that I've got the interior back in it. With some luck it will have a positive rake even. I'm packing up my car with all my worldly belongings and moving to Vegas in December and with the way it's sitting now I don't even want to imagine what it would be like on drive if I didn't do something to rear suspension.
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Oct 30, 2017 02:05
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